Dock Green

[81A Oldoak]

Thanks for the comment. Two Chris's? Well on Saturday I called one of them "Chris" and the other "Mr Klein". Seemed to work OK.

I let the "Mr" Klein pass this time even though it is the usual form of address for a subaltern officer in the British army and I am a retired major.

[chaz]

I'll take credit for positioning the barrows. I think it was all that Chaz was prepared to trust me to do during the setting up of Dock Green. Oh, I hung the curtains too.

 

That's a bit of a fib MR KLEIN. You did make a lovely job of the curtains though.

[chaz]

I let the "Mr" Klein pass this time even though it is the usual form of address for a subaltern officer in the British army and I am a retired major.

 

You can't expect a 'umble civvie to get that right, SIR!

[chaz]

Towards the end of the show I employed owner's rights and shot some video clips and here they are strung together.....

(As the sound features rather a lot of some idiot babbling on about "his" layout you might want to turn it down/off - luckily he is drown out most of the time by the sound of the Ixion Fowler ticking over.)
 

http://youtu.be/XAtRLxLSr60

 

The clips feature mostly the N7 (69727) in ex-works condition as it was the yard pilot at the end of the session but you also get a glimpse of the little Fowler diesel and the bigger BR/Sulzer type 2 (D5052),

.

 

Chaz

Edited December 1, 2014 by chaz

[Siberian Snooper]

I let the "Mr" Klein pass this time even though it is the usual form of address for a subaltern officer in the British army and I am a retired major.

I think you got a better deal than one MEO. (Marine Engineering Officer) a commander by rank how was addressed "'ere navy, pass me that spanner" after said spanner narrowly missed his head having been dropped the best part of 10 foot.

[Barnaby]

Some very nice photos there Chaz and the video got more than one watch too.

The operators faces showed top concentration when driving and the added detail brings even more life to Dock Green.

 

Great work.

[keefr2]

Apologies for posting yet another snap of the goods office, my only excuses are that I am rather proud of it .   

Chaz

And with good reason Chaz - it's superb!

 

Keith

[chaz]

My modelling time has now largely switched to the Furness Valley Railroad, the On30 layout which replaces the layout I had in my roof (since dismantled) on which Dock Green is based. So my postings in this topic will be less frequent.
I do have a few small repair jobs to do on Dock Green before it goes to the Eastleigh show at the end of January but these must wait until the new year.

However during a session clearing out the roof of masses of clutter I needed to pack away some of the 7mm stock that I don't currently run on Dock Green. Amongst them were these three vans...

 

 

L to R; A SR CCT from the Slater's kit, an LMS 6W Stove R - a Side Lines model which I bought RTR at a Reading GoG trade show - and An LNER diag. 120 4W pigeon van which I built from a very nice D & S etched brass kit. GW fans will note that from time to time one of the vans could be replaced by the Fruit D I have.
A check with a tape measure revealed that the three will just fit nicely into the goods platform on Dock Green. The temptation is to introduce a parcels train working into the sequence. The vans will only be moved away from the train engine and propelled into the platform line by the yard pilot and then later be moved back ready for departure - no other shunting would be likely - but they would be an attractive addition.

I will need to make a cassette long enough to accomodate the vans - at the same time I might as well make a new loco' cassette long enough for the 9F when it arrives - it could also be used for this,...

 

 

...one of Mr Thompson's nicely proportioned B1s, it would be a good loco' for the parcels working, wouldn't it?

 

 

Chaz

Edited December 11, 2014 by chaz

[81A Oldoak]

My modelling time has now largely switched to the Furness Valley Railroad, the On30 layout which replaces the layout I had in my roof (since dismantled) on which Dock Green is based. So my postings in this topic will be less frequent.

I do have a few small repair jobs to do on Dock Green before it goes to the Eastleigh show at the end of January but these must wait until the new year.

However during a session clearing out the roof of masses of clutter I needed to pack away some of the 7mm stock that I don't currently run on Dock Green. Amongst them were these three vans...

 

 

L to R; A SR CCT from the Slater's kit, an LMS 6W Stove R - a Side Lines model which I bought RTR at a Reading GoG trade show - and An LNER diag. 120 4W pigeon van which I built from a very nice D & S etched brass kit. GW fans will note that from time to time one of the vans could be replaced by the Fruit D I have.

A check with a tape measure revealed that the three will just fit nicely into the goods platform on Dock Green. The temptation is to introduce a parcels train working into the sequence. The vans will only be moved away from the train engine and propelled into the platform line by the yard pilot and then later be moved back ready for departure - no other shunting would be likely - but they would be an attractive addition.

 

I will need to make a cassette long enough to accomodate the vans - at the same time I might as well make a new loco' cassette long enough for the 9F when it arrives - it could also be used for this,...

 

 

...one of Mr Thompson's nicely proportioned B1s, it would be a good loco' for the parcels working, wouldn't it?

 

 

Chaz

Chaz,

I think even I could handle that easy parcel van movement at Eastleigh next month, so go for it.

Very nice finish indeed on that B1.

 

Regards,

 

Chris

[chaz]

Chaz,

I think even I could handle that easy parcel van movement at Eastleigh next month, so go for it.

Very nice finish indeed on that B1.

 

Regards,

 

Chris

 

Hmm.....you might be disappointed. I doubt if I can get it all together for the Eastleigh show. The sequence will have to be rewritten to make one of the platforms lines available.

 

"Very nice finish indeed on that B1."   Thanks, but it's confession time - I didn't build it or put on the BR MT black livery, but I did add the light weathering.

 

Chaz

Edited December 12, 2014 by chaz

[Donw]

I think the parcels train would be good adding a bit of a different flavour. I will miss your regular posting on Dock Green it has been very interesting. Hopefully if I get going in the new year you can pick holes in my loft layout.

Don

[chaz]

I think the parcels train would be good adding a bit of a different flavour. I will miss your regular posting on Dock Green it has been very interesting. Hopefully if I get going in the new year you can pick holes in my loft layout.

Don

 

Thanks Don. There will be more postings on Dock Green from time to time but inevitably fewer, with the layout largely finished there will be less to report.

 

Chaz

[2ManySpams]

Chaz

 

Are you going to have a new thread for the on30 loft layout? Like Don I enjoy your ramblings!

[Fettster42]

Chaz

 

Are you going to have a new thread for the on30 loft layout? Like Don I enjoy your ramblings!

 

There already is

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/79942-the-furness-valley-railroad/page-1

 

Some nice abutments can be found there!

[chaz]

Dock Green's next outing will be to the Eastleigh Show at Barton Peverill on Saturday 24th and Sunday 25th January. Check out the club website for more details of the show.

 

http://southamptonmodelrailwaysociety.wordpress.com/

 

As at previous shows if you are going I would be pleased if you say hello - us RMwebbers should stick together!  

[chaz]

Two birds with one stone dept...

 

One of the little niggles with the cassettes has been that every now and then a misplaced bulldog clip levers off the brass contact patch (they are glued in placed with Evostick) and they have to be glued back on. It ocurred to me that if I fitted the drawing pins to improve the contact I could in fact put the heads on the outside and solder the pin on the inside to the brass contact and this would hold the latter in place. The bulldog clip will contact the drawing pin just as well on the outside.

 

 

I cut the points off the pins and file the shank back, leaving just a stud projecting slightly above the brass.

 

Chaz

Edited December 19, 2014 by chaz

[Donw]

I think the Bristol 0 gauge show is on the 25th so I shall miss the Eastleigh one. I like the cassette connections.

 

Don

[chaz]

I think the Bristol 0 gauge show is on the 25th so I shall miss the Eastleigh one. I like the cassette connections.

 

Don

 

Eastleigh on the 24th, Bristol on the 25th?.....hmmm....might be overkill........

[Donw]

Nothing personal Chaz but I do have a lot of friends to catch up with. I expect a lot of the Glosgog members will be there.

Don

[chaz]

Nothing personal Chaz but I do have a lot of friends to catch up with. I expect a lot of the Glosgog members will be there.

Don

 

That's OK Don, there will be more shows that DG will be at - New Milton later this year for instance....

[chaz]

I finished fitting the drawing pins to all 17 cassettes this afternoon. That's 17 x 4 = 68 1.1mm holes to drill (yes, I did make a drilling jig) and then 68 pins to solder to the contact plates, cut off, file nearly flush - and then I had to put all the stock back (it lives in the cassettes between shows - a bit like Dracula in his coffin ). This did give the chance to do a quick check and adjustment of the couplings. About a full day's work altogether, and visitors to a show won't be aware of the change.....

 

Chaz

[chaz]

A rather nice pressie under the tree yesterday....

 

 

I decided to build this one quickly (rather than leave it in a drawer for a couple of years ). Here's the first part cut from the fret and with the tabs filed off the edges.

 

 

That's the "Double L" rivet press that I have had for a while. It works like a fly-press and does a really good job. As it includes a flat anvil it forms the rivet without distorting the sheet.

 

All the rivets in the kit are half-etched so it's a simple job to press them out, although it does take a while.

 

 

A bit difficult to see in this photo but that's all the rivets in part #1 pressed out. I should be able to find an hour or two after lunch to make some more progress with this kit. I think I am going to need another wagon cassette for Dock Green....

 

Chaz

Edited December 26, 2014 by chaz

[2ManySpams]

Morning Chaz, good to see someone else up early on boxing day doing some sneaky modelling.

[chaz]

Morning Chaz, good to see someone else up early on boxing day doing some sneaky modelling.

 

Must confess, the modelling was done yesterday afternoon while "The Peckett" was sleeping off lunch....

[chaz]

I think there might be some interest in the methods I am using to make up this kit. If you want me to continue posting this step-by-step detailed account please click a "Like" - that will encourage me to continue posting.
Before I proceed I must just say that the following methods are the ones I am using; there will be many alternative ways of doing stuff which will work fine and if you want to post details of these in this topic please feel free to do so. Some of my techniques rely on the use of particular tools. I have been making models on and off since I was a kid and over time have assembled a large number of tools, some of which I use a lot, some of which are used so seldom that they are often the subject of extensive searches when I want them.

You don't need to use all the same tools - there are often work-arounds - but (obviously) you won't be able to put an etched brass kit with no tools at all.

I left the kit yesterday with part #1 prepared and ready for folding up. This can be quite a daunting job and needs some care as the side folds are long but here we go....

I have some folding bars which I made up a while ago. These are normally aligned with a couple of mild-steel rivets but as you can see I have removed these as the fold is longer than the space between them.

I do think this folding job is much easier if you have a good bench mounted vice to hold everything securely, but a Workmate would do the job.

When you fold metal it is often better to hold the smaller side of the fold. A close-up...

The white strip between the steel folding bar and the brass is a piece of thick card. This will give the rivets that I earlier pressed out somewhere to go when the vice is tightened. Without the card the folding bars will crush them flat. Also note that the whole width of the half-etch for the fold is visible - just.

I choose a length of pine longer than the fold. I hold this firmly against the brass making sure that it is in contact for its whole length...

...and, keeping a firm grip,  roll it over towards me....

...until the brass is horizontal. When I made the folding bars I milled the top to an angle so the sheet being bent can be taken a little past a right angle. When the material springs back slightly (which it usually does) the result is a right angle.

Here I am peeling the card away from the rivets, which have been driven into the surface.

The rivets are undamaged, the card has done its job.

Before moving on I check the bend along its length with an engineer's square.

Any small errors can be adjusted out with the fingers. If it's way off I would put it back in the bars to correct the angle.
The second side is done using the same techniques. Just be aware of where that first side is going - if it clatters into the vice as you form the second fold it might be distorted.
This next photo shows the first two bends made and adjusted.

It's obvious that the folding bars are going to be no use on the ends. Here's how I get round that problem...

I cut two blocks of pine which will fit between the sides. An exact fit is not necessary - in fact a good working clearance is better. I use the blocks like the folding bars held tightly together with a G-cramp and with a piece of card in there to protect the rivets again. It is important to do the cramp up tight, we only want the brass to bend on the fold line, not along the etched plank lines. I hold the wood blocks and roll the floor of the model up using the pine piece as before. Be careful - if you drop the work the weight of the G-cramp is quite likely to do damage.

On this model the sides overlap the ends as you can see - a second piece of brass fits between these to give the top edge a convincing thickness. But the fit is a good one - as I would expect from one of Jim's kits.

And here's the result, ready to solder up.

As I said above click on "like" if you want me to continue posting this detailed account of the build. Providing there is not complete indifference I will do so. I do realise that most of you are not going to want to make up this Connoisseur kit, but I suggest some of the techniques will be useful for other projects.

 

Chaz
 

Edited December 26, 2014 by chaz