RMweb Premium Northroader Posted September 30, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted September 30, 2015 If you start off with some yellow paint, then gradually mix some black in with it, on the way you should reach this shade. tHen it's just a matter of having enough mixed to cover all the loco., and overcoming your scruples at brush painting a model rather than spraying it. Mr. Blobby showed me how. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted September 30, 2015 Author Share Posted September 30, 2015 If you start off with some yellow paint, then gradually mix some black in with it, on the way you should reach this shade. tHen it's just a matter of having enough mixed to cover all the loco., and overcoming your scruples at brush painting a model rather than spraying it. Mr. Blobby showed me how. I am aware that yellow and black will make a green. It may be worth a bit of experimentation but adding black to any colour can make it look lifeless - needs trying out to see. When it comes to having enough it is a very small loco' so should not require that much. I have no objection to brush painting in fact it's often a lot less work as it doesn't involve cleaning out an airbrush. Chaz Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted October 1, 2015 Author Share Posted October 1, 2015 Chaz here's a couple of "colour" sites I use, you may want to have a play. http://scalemodeldb.com/paint http://www.paint4models.com/paintchart/paintconversionchart20100101e.htm# Interesting. First link works fine and looks useful but your second link gives me a window full of a pale blue with nothing else. No text, no menus, nought. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
daifly Posted October 1, 2015 Share Posted October 1, 2015 Try this instead. Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted October 1, 2015 Author Share Posted October 1, 2015 Try this instead. Dave Thanks Dave - that link does work fine. As we have the decorators coming next week to do three rooms I seem to be drowning in a tidal wave of colour charts! I think I will have to hold off for a week or two as I'm in danger of going "colour-blind".... Chaz Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Young Posted October 1, 2015 Share Posted October 1, 2015 Looks like Mushy Pea Green to me! Cheers, Andrew Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
81A Oldoak Posted October 1, 2015 Share Posted October 1, 2015 The First green Ixion Hudswell Clarke and the lined green Minerva Peckett are the equivalent of Humbrol Enamel Matt 80 Grass Green. To get the shade right on the Hudswell we sent a painted plasticard patch to the factory and asked them to photograph a test moulding shot alongside the patch to check the colour match. Simple, but effective. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted October 2, 2015 Author Share Posted October 2, 2015 The First green Ixion Hudswell Clarke and the lined green Minerva Peckett are the equivalent of Humbrol Enamel Matt 80 Grass Green. To get the shade right on the Hudswell we sent a painted plasticard patch to the factory and asked them to photograph a test moulding shot alongside the patch to check the colour match. Simple, but effective. An interesting insight into a commercial practice but I'm not sure how relevant this would be to my need. Given that the colour was generated by a software edit and that any print will be "coloured" (sorry) by the veracity of the printer it might be more productive for me to have a go at mixing my own version. I don't think it will take much black to turn a pot of Humbrol yellow into green. I think a pot of Humbrol 69 and 21 would be a good start to follow up on Northroader's suggestion. If necessary other colours could be added to the mix. So some sample paintings similar to my experiments with Humbrol crimson for the FVRR doodlebug might follow. Chaz Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
AJon30 Posted October 2, 2015 Share Posted October 2, 2015 Hello Chaz Looks like you're not the only one having problems with colours! http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/uknews/11908365/Restored-HMS-Victory-raises-eyebrows-with-new-pink-shade.html Rgds Andrew Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barnaby Posted October 2, 2015 Share Posted October 2, 2015 Link works fine for me Chaz It shows as you say but I also have a deep blue action box which includes a message which I click on and off it goes to open up the paint store.Thanks for a Chaz working link Dave. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Siberian Snooper Posted October 6, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 6, 2015 Years ago I was given a tip as a guide to printed colours by Martin Welch, magnify the section of colour you want to replicate and count the number of pixels of each colour in a given area, say 1ins x 1 ins and this will give you the basic mix. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted October 7, 2015 Author Share Posted October 7, 2015 Years ago I was given a tip as a guide to printed colours by Martin Welch, magnify the section of colour you want to replicate and count the number of pixels of each colour in a given area, say 1ins x 1 ins and this will give you the basic mix. Interesting idea - now that you have jogged the memory I read this myself some time ago. Of course it does beg the question of what colours match the pixels, but it should serve as a starting point. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
raymw Posted October 7, 2015 Share Posted October 7, 2015 (edited) Simple, if your whole system is properly colour managed. But you may be able to make a good guess by taking a photo of a paint colour chart and another of the object you want to colour match, get them both on screen, then use some free colour picking software - e.g. colorcop from colorcop.net - which will give you the rgb or other system colour values, and find which rgb values of the colour swatches more or less match the values of the selected area of the object. All a bit pointless, there are no accurate colour records before about 1950, and not much was calibrated back then (or now) so it will always be not much better than guess work. Don't forget to allow for model illumination under artificial light, etc. At the end of the day, if it looks OK .... Best wishes, Ray Edited October 7, 2015 by raymw Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted October 7, 2015 Author Share Posted October 7, 2015 Simple, if your whole system is properly colour managed. But you may be able to make a good guess by taking a photo of a paint colour chart and another of the object you want to colour match, get them both on screen, then use some free colour picking software - e.g. colorcop from colorcop.net - which will give you the rgb or other system colour values, and find which rgb values of the colour swatches more or less match the values of the selected area of the object. All a bit pointless, there are no accurate colour records before about 1950, and not much was calibrated back then (or now) so it will always be not much better than guess work. Don't forget to allow for model illumination under artificial light, etc. At the end of the day, if it looks OK .... Best wishes, Ray Thanks Ray. Of course my situation - liking a colour on my computer screen that I arrived at by messing about with a photo in Lightroom - is not really open to matching. I'm inclined to do some mixing tests, starting with yellow and adding black and see if I can get a colour that appeals in the same way. If it sounds a bit like guesswork there's a good reason for that 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Western Star Posted October 7, 2015 Share Posted October 7, 2015 I'm inclined to do some mixing tests, starting with yellow and adding black and see if I can get a colour that appeals in the same way. If the result is appropriate then myabe you could rename this thread as "Duck Green"? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted October 7, 2015 Share Posted October 7, 2015 There isn't an "ouch" icon! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted October 7, 2015 Author Share Posted October 7, 2015 If the result is appropriate then myabe you could rename this thread as "Duck Green"? There isn't an "ouch" icon! No, but there should be. I did go to school with a lad called Richard Green.....so............No, I think not. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheSnapper Posted October 9, 2015 Share Posted October 9, 2015 No, but there should be. I did go to school with a lad called Richard Green.....so............No, I think not. Not the guy who played Robin Hood in the ITV series, was he? Tim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
daifly Posted October 9, 2015 Share Posted October 9, 2015 Not the guy who played Robin Hood in the ITV series, was he? That would be Richard Greene who was born in 1918 (d.1985) making Chaz about 97 if they went to school together! Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted October 10, 2015 Author Share Posted October 10, 2015 Not the guy who played Robin Hood in the ITV series, was he? Tim No. Not even slightly. That would be Richard Greene who was born in 1918 (d.1985) making Chaz about 97 if they went to school together! Dave Hmm. That might account for the knees.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted October 10, 2015 Share Posted October 10, 2015 I'd have thought the green tights would account for the knees.... (Another Eric & Ernie moment) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted October 10, 2015 Author Share Posted October 10, 2015 I'd have thought the green tights would account for the knees.... (Another Eric & Ernie moment) I don't wear the green tights anymore - they gave rise to too many ribald comments. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
raymw Posted October 14, 2015 Share Posted October 14, 2015 If you think your idea of colour is right then you'll like this http://blog.xkcd.com/2010/05/03/color-survey-results/ 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phill Dyson (onslaught832) Posted October 16, 2015 Share Posted October 16, 2015 I recently made a couple of new cassettes for Dock Green each long enough for four wagons and labelled them prominently "COAL". I knew that I had plenty of mineral wagons with removeable coal loads and it seems a shame not to run them on the layout. After a short search through the cupboards I found them and chose the seven best (the eighth will be a brake van). Here is one of the wagons, a PO 13 tonner, which I made from a Slater's plastic kit. The removeable coal loads look very tired and dusty and add a considerable weight to each wagon as the "heap" was made of Plasticene. Aware that the small industrial locos (including my 0-4-0ST "Susan") will have to pull seven coal wagons I think it's a good idea to cut down the weight and replacing the loads will certainly give me the chance to improve the look. I decide to do one wagon first (the other six will follow once I have sorted out the design). I cut a piece of 12mm thick balsa to fit. This needs to be the right size, not so tight that it's difficult to remove but not so loose that there are obvious gaps at the sides or ends. Then I carved the top surface to a "heap" shape. Don't overdo this - real coal would get a thorough shaking up in a loose coupled train and would tend to flatten down during it's journey. Have a look at photographs of the real thing - not difficult to find shots of loaded coal wagons. I carved my balsa to shape, sloping down at the sides and towards the ends, with a chisel. I put the balsa up against a fence of thin ply' cramped to the top of my Workmate. If you are going to do this please, please, please follow the first rule of chisels - keep both hands behind the blade. If you have to hold the workpiece grip it at the end nearest you and cut away from you towards the other end. As I used to say to pupils in practical lessons the blood makes the chisel go rusty and stains the workpiece, and of course for us a trip to casualty will use up time we could use for modelling. I also cut two pieces of balsa to bring the load to the right height (no idea how high? check your photo research). These were glued to the underside with balsa cement (what else?) here is a test fit of the load support in the wagon. It's mportant to make sure that the load will drop in and, crucially, be easy to get out again. Next job is to paint the top surface and the upper part of the sides black. I used artists' acrylic lamp black, adding a little water to get it to flow. It's worth being thorough over this as any glimpse of bare wood will spoil the final result. Once the black paint was dry I coated the top surface with PVA (a cheap Poundland sort is fine for this) and poured plenty of Woodland Scenics coal lumps on. If you do this in a tray (I used the lid off a shoe box) the excess can be collected and reused. I left this overnight for the glue to dry and then turned the load over and shook it so that any loose lumps fell away. In the background is the old load which weighs 91gms. The new load in the foreground weighs 12gms. Quite an improvement and IMHO it also looks a lot better. And finally a picture of the wagon with its load of nutty slack. Pressing gently down on one end of the load causes it to tip up and it can then be lifted out so that the wagon can return "up north" empty. I will post pictures of the other wagons as I do the new loads for them. I will also get some pictures of the coal train on the layout at the next show - in Taunton, next month. Hi Chaz, Do you have any cunning plans for removing your wagon loads without handling the wagons? Cheers Phill 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted October 16, 2015 Author Share Posted October 16, 2015 Hi Chaz, Do you have any cunning plans for removing your wagon loads without handling the wagons? Cheers Phill No Phil, as I said just gentle downward pressure on one end of the load. We will try this out next weekend at Taunton and see how it goes at a show. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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