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Black Country Blues


Indomitable026
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Crikey, this BCB project as a whole is so refreshing,......REAL traditional modelling at it's VERY BEST!!! :fan: That diesel/elec shunter, how that's been captured is....Well!!!, AND I believe there is still work to finish it off??  Can't wait to see the end product,  WELL DONE!! :clapping_mini: ....only tonight,nipped out to get some bits of shopping from our local supermarket I took the opportunity to take a quick flick through the latest `mainstream' model railway mags as I ALWAYS have done.

 

 

 

Cheers, Rich.

 

All very flattering and all, but it's dad's model and although it is in EM and could run on it (DCC permitting, dad and I don't do it), it isn't intended for BCB. I think dad just happened to like the prototype. I included the shot because Arthur happened to refer to it. It's far, far too clean at the minute.

 

Agreed that this is a good project, a model of a railway and its surroundings That's the point.

 

Adam

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So, on with the chassis;

 

A torsion bar (strip of brass etch) was soldered across the top of the chassis frames, just behind the gearbox side frames, to prevent the gearbox rotating with the force of the motor.

Pick ups, I really do not like this bit of the job. I’ve tried both phosphor bronze strip and wire, gold plated wire, nickel silver wire and hard brass wire. Trying to solder them on whilst maintaining sufficient pressure on the wheel tyre is always a pain, just damned fiddly. Anyway, a piece of PCB was araldited to the chassis spacer, and pick ups made from .45mm brass wire coiled in a pair of round nosed pliers. The leads to the motor will be replaced when I install a DCC decoder. The silver-grey bit at the back, between the sandboxes, is one of four bits of lead flashing, folded up, and araldited in, as ballast. Though the motor is high, there is a lot of low down weight.

 

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(it’s more effective than it is pretty, honest);

 

Now all my own stuff is 00. To run the chassis in I took a pair of my Bachmann test rollers, which can readily be taken apart, and these were then fixed to a bit of board, with double sided tape at the necessary spacings. On the same board I knocked up some EM gauge (ish) track from rail and copper clad.

 

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Does it work? Check out this for some live test running;

 

 

It’s spent a couple of hours on the rollers, at various speeds and in both directions. The power leads were only attached to one pair of rollers, and by turning the chassis round, I could check that power was being collected on all four wheels.

 

Off now for a good clean and tidy, and then a light lubrication.

 

We’ll return to the chassis, later, but next time, onto the body.

 

TBC

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Chris,

Do you need any of the main frames to be below ground, or are you happy to place the frame directly on to the ground?

 

There will be supporting bars, similar to your design, which will also reach ground level.

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Anybody remember the poster for Lamb's Navy Rum ?

 

Then we can ask Paul to do a damaged car that has crashed into the wall, after missing the turn!!

it was part of mt early teans and my memory is a girl a wet suite and ....... a zip

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My Dad used to work at a builders merchants until about '62 or '63 and the main part of the yard was concrete where the lorries and vans were, but the more distant parts where there was little or no vehicular traffic were compacted earth or possibly ash.

 

Cheers SS

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Thanks Rich, that means a lot to us all. One of the reasons we went for this project, and I think a reason why BRM chose us, is that we wanted to show how research and 'proper' model making could together produce a unique end result that is a world apart from the ready-to-plonk buildings and kits that are becoming universal. Glad you are enjoying the journey.

:happy_mini: No problem,.....but Thank You anyway, must give credit where credit is very much due.

 

Cheers,  Rich.

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Chris,

Do you need any of the main frames to be below ground, or are you happy to place the frame directly on to the ground?

 

There will be supporting bars, similar to your design, which will also reach ground level.

 

Probably worth some of the legs going below ground to positively locate them, stop them wobbling if the boards are knocked and to make the task more interesting!

 

it was part of mt early teans and my memory is a girl a wet suite and ....... a zip

 

Banks, behave!

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Having a one off prototype to build meant that all of the proprietary brass etch doors that I have in stock were completely and utterly unusuitable... SO, for the last past 3 hours or so I have been scratchbuilding industrial doors. out of plastic sheet and rod..  Grumble, mutter, moan... "£$*&^%(*£" Oldbury Road! As they are battered factory doors, I guess the scratchbuilt items will pass muster. Photos to be posted when I finish the window frames (to be scratch built in situ on already glazed window apertures - as practiced by Herr Sandseite (Sandside)

 

Just to let you know...

 

Still at it....

 

iD

Edited by iL Dottore
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The first half dozen tanks for the 7L35 Stanlow - Trafalgar Sidings fuel oil for the steelworks (and 7L41 return) (see the working timetable here) have been rewheeled, had their couplings removed and a start made on a few adjustments to lettering/markings.  Further renumbering (and plenty of weathering still required).  As suggested in "Operations" I've included one Calss A tank carrying Class B product for a bit of variety.


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At this stage none of these have had the extra brake gear details shown on the Esso tank earlier in the thread; that will have to wait until after Doncaster.  Priority is to add some extra weight and sort out the couplings.  My plan is to couple these in cuts of three, with AJ couplings on one end of the outer wagons and three links on the inner.

 

7L35 is booked for a Crewe Class 40 and I've had a look at rewheeling a Hornby Railroad example.  As Hornby use a 2.5mm axle I have used the 2.5mm - 2mm stepped axles available (to members) from EM Gauge Society.  Unfortunately the insulating bush on the DCC Concepts wheels used on the Class 24 above is too big to allow the correct back to back to be achieved when using these axles, so I have used Keen Maygib wheels here, but otherwise the method (and hammer) used were the same as I described above.

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On test it ran ok; I think it will benefit from additional pick ups and some extra weight - once it is running satisfactorily I'll start to think about improving the body (just in time for the long awaited Bachmann re-tooled version to be available no doubt).  At this stage I've not fitted the pony wheels, these have normal 2mm diameter axles.

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Trying to catch up with a bit of modelling between Grandad duty - today Sammy wanted to go to York Museum, so I just had to take him. :good:

 

The carcase has been put together so last night I did a test fit of the roof and windows before starting painting and adding details. The paint pot in the picture gives an idea of the proportions I am trying to work to.

 

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The oil cupboard and barge boards still have to be added but some bits need painting first as at this size there are places that will be impossible to reach when it is all assembled.

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i would agree with the general principle of a black country brewery.  in the 70's I think you had Banks's, Batham's, Holden's and M&B to consider.

 

what I would like to know is who was the actual brewery ????  does anyone know someone who might know ??

 

I  do wonder if the sign, the chainmakers arms (rather than the 8 locks) was always meant to be mounted on the brick panel between the windows on the top floor.

 

Andy

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Tonight for tea I have been mostly cooking grass and vegetables...

 

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And this is what happened next....

 

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By the way, this is just first fix scenics and more detail / vegetation will be added once the whole layout is up to the same standard. The idea is to get as much initial greening done ASAP and revisit a second fix later. Damian should be happy that my nice green paint is getting covered up!  

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Oh John, I may also have had an accident with weathering powders in the yard...

 

And yes, before any of the team asks, I did cover the track when spraying AND separated the boards after applying the green stuff. Need a stiff drink now and a scrubbing brush for the fingers!

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I have to say it's the bit I really hate about buildings - sourcing or making the windows. Commercial ones are never quite the right size / design and making your own is a mind numbing job. 

 

We were starting to get worried Flavio - a St Bernard was heading your way...

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Just don't glue up Geoff's point blades!

 

Or it'll be like a scene out of Python's "Life of Brian" - "You're a very .........."

 

If I'd glued up Geoffs points I'd be leaving the country right now. Thankfully brushed on dry powders don't tend to do much gluing of blades. The yard is now not such an intense blue / black and has a bit more colour variation. I kept all the ash from the two BBQs we managed to have last 'Summer'. Thought it would come in useful!

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