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Black Country Blues


Indomitable026
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Here's a short section of one I made from a photo then wrapped around a piece of plasticard. If it's any use you're welcome to the full length (about 10x longer). Could be curved with careful editing or just with a few scalpel cuts. You might want to try doing your own though as the patterns in mine repeat after about eight inches.

 

Nick

 

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With an olaf cutter you could score the plasticard, as per the photo and then wrap it around some shaped timber.  then paint.

 

Andy

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With an olaf cutter you could score the plasticard, as per the photo and then wrap it around some shaped timber.  then paint.

 

Andy

 

Yes, thought about using an olaf cutter, got one. Was trying to avoid scoring 100's of little lines though and the wrapping would work ok on straights but could be issues on the curves I have. Still thinking on this one....

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Continuing with the loco theme, I thought I'd add a quick post on EM gauge conversions having been asked by one of the team about this recently.  The majority of the locos in the fleet are from the Bachmann range, this isn't due to any notion of brand loyality it's simply that they make the stuff we need.  Victim for this little "how to" is an elderly but little used Bachmann Class 24, but it's applicable to most in their range and Heljan locos can be converted by similar methods.

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There is no need to remove the body and (with the older style packaging like this) I tend to use this to support the loco upside down.  The bogie frames unclip to reveal the wheels and gears (and a lot of grease)

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The wheels are retained with brass bearings which clip into the bogie and can just be pulled up and out

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To re-gauge the existing wheels, I support them between the open jaws of a vice and tap the end of the axle, using an old pin point axle as a drift, tapping it lightly with a small hammer; the aim is to move the axle inwards by approximately 1mm

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Flip the wheelset over and repeat on the other end of the axle, then check the back to back using a gauge.  Here is a comparison showing before and after

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The Bachmann wheels have a tyre width of 2.80mm, so are a little wider than the 2.28mm specified by the EMGS as the EM standard.  I have a number of locos which have run on these wheels for some time, with no issues, however I recently started to replace these with something a little finer, for example these from DCC Concepts.  These are 14mm diameter, so a little underscale for the 3'9" wheels on a class 24. 

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On these only one wheel is insulated, so I removed the insulated wheel, then filed down the pin points.  These come with a spring to act as a pick up, but this isn't required here and can be removed.

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Pulling the Bachmann wheels off the original wheels allows you to remove the gear and bearing, these can then be transferred over to the new axle, the wheel replaced and back to back checked to gauge

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The parts then clip back together, tweaking the pick ups to ensure they are in cntact with the back of the wheels and the loco can be tested.  On Class 24s and 25s, I've found there to be sufficient clearance between the brake gear on the bogies; on class 20s I tend to file the brake gear to give a little more room.

 

Hope this is of interest - feel free to ask any questions......

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Ah, the Andy Cooper school of wheel adjustment I see, ruffass :O

 

Mike.

 

I suppose the other option is to spend a lot of money and place an order with Ultrascale and then wait around 3 months. Their wheel sets are great but we have time and budget constraints on this project. In this case I think 'ruffass' works and is appropriate.  :locomotive:

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Morning Flavio,

 

Got rudely awoken by the postman banging heavily on the door this morning. He was delivering a box. Inside the box were two card mock-ups. I'll be using these to create the sockets in the boards ready for the real building. 

 

I'll post photos of the mock-ups in place on the board later, after I've finished helping the kids with their homework....but a quick placement has shown they will look great in their chosen positions. 

 

Thanks chap.

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It's not true, I say, it's not true.

 

A peaceful, dreamless sleep has been had, followed by 6:30am start to do the Tesco run before collecting SWMBO from work. Pleased to say no turkeys were purchased today.

 

No1 son showered & now playing Trainz on his laptop, trying to get No2 son to move so he can be taken out to purchase ingredients for next weeks cookery class.

So in the meantime, a quick catch up on here, then out with the paints - seeing as how the skies are a wonderful, uniform grey, they are ideal for that mid-autumn period for the layout...

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No need to spend oceans of money, I re gauge my wheels with a GW Models gear puller, (other gear pullers are available), I just find it more controllable than braying it with a 4lb lump hammer. Then again, I use a half inch wood chisel to modify my wagons, so who am I to preach?

 

Mike.

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Ah, the Andy Cooper school of wheel adjustment I see, ruffass :O

 

Mike.

Ruffass, moi? I did use my smallest hammer ;-)

 

I suppose the other option is to spend a lot of money and place an order with Ultrascale and then wait around 3 months. Their wheel sets are great but we have time and budget constraints on this project. In this case I think 'ruffass' works and is appropriate.  :locomotive:

There is another option in the form of the Alan Gibson wheels, however (being plastic centred) these require more careful adjustment of the pick ups to align with the tyres.

When some of my locos get converted a second time (to P4 for WLL) I will probably use the Ultrascale economy packs swapping the gears and bearings over as shown here.

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Ruffass, moi? I did use my smallest hammer ;-)

 

There is another option in the form of the Alan Gibson wheels, however (being plastic centred) these require more careful adjustment of the pick ups to align with the tyres.

When some of my locos get converted a second time (to P4 for WLL) I will probably use the Ultrascale economy packs swapping the gears and bearings over as shown here.

 

I think Damian used some Alan Gibson wheels to re-gauge some of his stock for DitD but... the running qualities we're not as good as the Ultrascales.

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I think Damian used some Alan Gibson wheels to re-gauge some of his stock for DitD but... the running qualities we're not as good as the Ultrascales.

Yes I had a similar experience with the Hymek on Foundry Lane. I put it down to how I had "adjusted" the pick ups, but suspect the steel tyres may also contribute? I swapped them over to coach disc wheels (Keen Maygib I think) and running improved considerably.

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If you are changing the wheels, why strip the bearing and gear off the old axle, to transfer to the new one, with the new wheels ? Why not just put the new wheels on the old axle, leaving the bearings and gears alone ?

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Why not just put the new wheels on the old axle, leaving the bearings and gears alone ?

The downside of using the original axle in EM is that it is a little too short.  Although this is ok if using the original wheels, if I'm replacing the wheels, I also use the longer axle to correct this.

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After having a play with the positioning I decided to have the building plot encroaching more on the canal - particularly as I had been toying with the idea of amending the canal alignment after the lock and bridge fitting last weekend. This has also meant trimming down the lump between the railway and canal near the bridges. I was increasingly not happy with how that sat...

 

So major scenic surgery all round, and all just to fit a building! :O The outcome though is that I'm much happier with how the area looks.  :sungum:

 

By the way the retaining wall to the rear of Flavios building will be topped above made-ground level by a concrete post and panel fence. Perhaps the Ration SR one.  :angel:

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