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Black Country Blues


Indomitable026
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You might need drain holes near the bottom of the wall to let water escape.

For a moment there I thought we were talking about the waste plumbing from the toilet in the box :nono:

 

Yes, spotted those on the prototype - nothing more fancy than the odd brick missing from the bottom course of bricks.

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Cheers Mark, been a day of changes - realised halfway through the canal lock build that I'd made a major mistake. It's rectified now and can be seen in some of the earlier progress shots - nobody has spotted it yet... Extra BCB points for those that do!

 

 

Maybe I havent said anything yet, depends on how many points it's worth

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What's pleasing, to me, about these two buildings, is they've come out as I first imagined they would - my modelling skills are starting to catch up with my imagination.

 

I know I've still got along way to go to match many others, but I'm confident enough now to not be worried I can't do it.

 

Many thanks to the BCB team for having the faith in me to invite me to join in !

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Yes, that thought had crossed my mind too and with the benefit of hindsight I might have gone with a brick base after all, particular on reading in Foster that the all timber box was more expensive to build than the composite.

Our box was added to an existing embankment when the sidings were added on the other side of the line, so the embankment has had to be widened to make room for the box. As you can see below, there isn't really room for an embankment slope between the box and the canal, so I think a retaining wall would be required.

attachicon.gifDSCF3083web.jpg

Perhaps it was found that the box was getting nearer to the canal, so the wall was provided as an afterthought. We put in a temporary portacabin box at Erdington because the LNW one was getting further from the railway but not at the same rate at each end so the locking was binding in the frame.

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For a moment there I thought we were talking about the waste plumbing from the toilet in the box :nono:

 

Yes, spotted those on the prototype - nothing more fancy than the odd brick missing from the bottom course of bricks.

 

(risks further wrath of builders) dont forget there's a little bit of the embankment at the base if the wall, so the bottom of the visible wall will be part way up your wall. We could either try and work out where the weep holes would be or put them in when the structure is fitted? I think the latter might be easier!

 

(edited for big fingers, same keys on phone errors)

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Very nice Adam, something to aspire to. I'll be completing this model in a near identical finish, it certainly won't get lost in the Black Country murk!

 

 

The chassis now painted and trial assembled, motor and gearbox in place, and wheels fitted. The coupling rods were held on by pairs of plain nuts whilst I gave it a brief running in. The motor is a Mashima and the gearbox a High Level, 108:1, Loadhauler +. The motor will sit high, space for a decoder beneath, and forward, space for a flywheel behind. One benefit, to me, of this compensation system is that there’s not a lot of sloppy play in the rocking axle, just enough to do the job. Not clear, it’s under the motor, is the ‘knife edge’ about which the rear axle rocks and which determines the ride height.

 

post-6861-0-56841900-1358189925_thumb.jpg

 

This sequence is a departure from my usual routine, driven by the use of Gibson wheels. Nice looking though they are, they don’t take readily to being pushed on and off their axles. With Romford/Markits I’d have finished the chassis, including the brake hangars, with the wheels in place and then removed them to spray the chassis. Then I’d wiggle the wheels back in behind the brake hangars, and screw them onto the axles. I wasn’t happy to do this with the Gibsons, I sprayed the chassis before fitting the brake hangars so that I had clear access to fit the wheels. Quartering wasn’t a problem, just done by eye, but I took care in getting the wheels on square and I set the back to back with an EM back to back gauge. They’re secured with a dab of Loctite 901.

 

The resin sand boxes are each held between two brass stretchers soldered across the frames. Prior to fitting I drilled through them, and the resin sandboxes, so that a length of brass wire could be used to pin them together securely. I didn’t do this on my own builds, and haven’t had any problems, but as this is a locomotive for exhibition use, I took a belt and braces approach.

 

post-6861-0-95829100-1358189964_thumb.jpg

 

 

TBC

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Nige, how deep is the recess in the wall for the gate to swing back into? I've guessed 3mm (9").

 

Forgot to ask last time, are you making the lock furniture from scratch our buying in? Oh, and would you mind making an extra gate when you're making your 4? I think this would be better for consistency. 

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Come on guys.... how does a "boat" like that appear in the middle of this lot without a description of how it was made?

 

I think this is the second time I've seen it, the first was about 4 or so months ago when a basic plastic shell was photographed next to the mock up of Andy Y's cottages. Looks fantastic!

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I don't remember who made them back in the 70s.  But the system was to have bulk deliveries to the large S&T stores, like the one at Gresty Rd. Crewe.  From there each S&T depot would order how many they needed for collection, I used to go once a week back in the mid 80s.

They were then prefabricated with fittings and wiring at the depot, ready to go out to the job. Very rarely did you take an empty loc. to site and wire it in the rain.  So for collection from the manufacturer would be a full load on an artic, and delivery to site, my little yellow lorry with a trolley and half a dozen men.

Merf.

 

There's a book in all these memories. So much that was 'everyday' that's now in the nearly forgotten past.

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(risks further wrath of builders) dont forget there's a little bit of the embankment at the base if the wall, so the bottom of the visible wall will be part way up your wall. We could either try and work out where the weep holes would be or put them in when the structure is fitted? I think the latter might be easier!

 

Or put some weep holes higher up and show the drainage passage of water by calcium carbonate deposits, and hide the ones that are supposed to be lower down with vegetation along the towpath.

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More like this then......

 

attachicon.gifDSCF3131.JPG

 

(I really must tidy the workbench..)

 

Yes, bob on. Looks almost indistinguishable from my photo edited version! Hope it wasn't too much work.

 

Tidy workbench, I've managed to bury an area the size of a door...in fact it was a door! 

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(risks further wrath of builders) dont forget there's a little bit of the embankment at the base if the wall, so the bottom of the visible wall will be part way up your wall. We could either try and work out where the weep holes would be or put them in when the structure is fitted? I think the latter might be easier!

Yes, although I have a rough idea of where the ground level will be (from the measurements I took and the photo above), I was thinking these would be added later once the wall had been test fitted. 

 

However....

 

Or put some weep holes higher up and show the drainage passage of water by calcium carbonate deposits

I do like that idea; can I take the "Like" of the above post as approval from the Divisional Civil Engineer?

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I think this is the second time I've seen it, the first was about 4 or so months ago when a basic plastic shell was photographed next to the mock up of Andy Y's cottages. Looks fantastic!

i put some more rivits on the bow / sterns today after mark shamed me with the black country museum photos.

 

Andy

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