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GeorgeT's (7mm Workbench) TPO


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Looks like l have to strip the whole thing down now that l have started..

 

George - It looks like you are doing a superb job of breathing life back into this model. It's fascinating to see how resilient the brass is. Seems as if you'd have to work really hard to ruin a model so badly that it cannot be rescued!

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Great work George.

 

Are those spectacle frames etched or did you cut them?  They look very good either way.

 

I'm about to do them on my LNER D9 and don't know whether to use fuse wire and flatten it after soldering or fretting/cutting 5" brass. As a sometime scratchbuilder yourself, what do you reckon?

Edited by LaScala
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Hello Steve, To be honest the kit was put together fairly well, but there were lot's of gaps in the solder, and l just could not clean it up good enough for the new solder to take, so l decided to blow it all apart, initially l thought god what a mess, but a small wire brush, lot's of heat and a good fibre pen and different grade's of wet'n'dry paper's have given me the required finish. still have a lot of cleaning to do, but l think it will be worth in the end ?

 

George.

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Hello LaScala,  The window surrounds were on a fret l found in the box, but l do a lot of scratch building as you say and l normally use brass rod of the correct size and bend to shape, then with my dremel l grind the window frames flat, (never tried fuse wire) hope this helps....

 

George.

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Hello Steve, To be honest the kit was put together fairly well, but there were lot's of gaps in the solder, and l just could not clean it up good enough for the new solder to take, so l decided to blow it all apart, initially l thought god what a mess, but a small wire brush, lot's of heat and a good fibre pen and different grade's of wet'n'dry paper's have given me the required finish. still have a lot of cleaning to do, but l think it will be worth in the end ?  George.

It will be well worth it George, get it all back to clean bare metal and start again.  Sounds tedious but much easier in the long run.  Its impossible to fix an old, poor solder joint thats got mucky and corroded.  And your new soldering looks very neat and precise.

Cheers, Dave.

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Hello Dave, Stephen, Peter & Kev, Thanks for all your comments lads, judging by the number of likes l have had over the restoration of my loco l will keep the photos coming, did a bit more this afternoon, the details on the firebox were already done, there are a few missing parts so l will have to scratch those....

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Hello LaScala,  The window surrounds were on a fret l found in the box, but l do a lot of scratch building as you say and l normally use brass rod of the correct size and bend to shape, then with my dremel l grind the window frames flat, (never tried fuse wire) hope this helps....

 

George.

Thanks.  I assume you anneal the rod first to prevent it breaking as it is bent to the sharp radius needed?  I have some 0.8mm rod that looks promising.

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Hi George, I haven't been in here for a while and I forgotten just how busy you have been re building all these wonderful little engines.

 

The pics are superb and are a great step by step of both your problems and more importantly how you have overcome the issues you have inherited.

 

Keep it all coming mate. :locomotive: :locomotive:

 

Andy :sungum:

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Hello Rob, Ray & Andy,  Welcome back, yes l am very pleased with the way she turned out, quite a bit of work but well worth it l think, just been talking to Andrew P (Bodgit) and he tells me it pouring down in Derbyshire so l thought l'd get out and get the primer on before it rains in Manchester.

 

Next l have to sort the chassis out, l have ruined two driving wheels trying to get them off their axles as they were rusted up solid, the tender wheels were not so bad, have got a nice canon motor in the drawer somewhere that will suit she a treat..

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Good Evening Kev, Thanks for the kind words, and yes it will be 58148 un-lined BR Black with  'BRITISH RAILWAYS'   on the tender, as it has a beading down the middle of the tender which would spoil the BR badge, l don't know how they over come this problem in the real world ? all the photos l can find don't have anything there...

 

George.

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Just giving credit where it's due.

 

With regards to the placing of the BR emblem, I had a look on the Just Like The Real Thing website as they now sell the Chowbent kits. On the models built for Mr Waterman the emblem is placed behind the beading.

 

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Photo copyright JLTRT.

 

Not the best way to research, but I'm assuming that models built by the pro's would be accurate.

 

Hope this helps.

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I think originally it would of looked similar to the 3130 I am building. Then Deeley put those standard sort of cabs on some of the belpeire fitted ones, a similar cabe to the 3 and 4Fs. I will have a look in my book for the history on Monday when back at the house.

 

I know these little 0-6-0's of MR, LMS have a complicated history.

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