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GeorgeT's (7mm Workbench) TPO


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I am pleased that you were inspired to improve already lovely models. I really hate doing the paint as as you say it is so easy to spoil. That is why most of my loco builds go slowly when it get to the end, it is me being tentertive about painting.

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Peter,   l know what you mean, when l got into 0 gauge l was really green, and made loads of mistakes, (big time) and wasted a lot of money on the way, sometimes l wish l had stayed with 00 ? but l carried on, with 00 gauge most of the locos l had re-painted were plastic and l found them easy to paint, but with all my locos being build in brass and tin-plate l find its a different ball game, even though l prime all my locos with acid eight etching primer, l still had problems with paint lifting off ?

 

Now l make sure l don't touch the model on the outside after a good clean with CIF, so no awful finger prints, then l warm the loco up with the hairdryer so its nice and warm before l apply the primer, and that the story so far, thank you for your input and inspiration...GT

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  • 5 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Hello Ray, Thanks for dropping in, the powder's l'm using are the bog standard Carrs, all l have used so far is the coal black, just gently rubbing it it with a decent brush, then a little rust here and there and when finished a light coat of Gold acrylic spray from the art shop,seems to do the trick,

 

George

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Morning Jack, Nice to hear from you again, and thanks for your comment's l am about to give the A1X a light weathering, will post pics later.

 

George

 

It's nice to be back! The weathering looks really superb. The more I see your B4 the more I want one!

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Morning Peter & Dave,  Nice to hear from you both, and thanks for the comments, l too hate over-done weathering, to me they just don't look right, l have seen locos in the late 60s where you just could not see the number through the grime and dirt, so weathering can really ruin a model in my eyes, so l try to create a model that looks weather worn, l need to add some rust around the chassis etc etc..

 

George

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Hi George,

 

I tend to agree with you, I keep my weathering fairly light generally, (partly because I'm worried about messing it up!)

 

One thing I recommend is the use of Humbrol Metalcote Gunmetal paint around any parts that should look wet and oily, like cylinders & motion etc.  Its a dirty black colour, you paint it on and when its dry you polish it up and it gives a lovely oily sheen.  Weathering powders can give a finish that's too dry and dusty for some areas.

 

I keep going back to look at the work of Martyn Welch for weathering inspiration, his website has extensive galleries of models he has built or weathered:

http://martynwelch.com/

 

All the best,

Dave.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hello Dave, Thanks for the tip it will come in handy for my wet patches (haha), been busy building a kit from the Agenoria range, and well impressed very nice to build, fear there will be a few more, just waiting for the wheels-motor-gearbox to come from Tower at Blackpool..

 

George

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Hello Peter, They were bought by the 'Manchester Ship Company' and had a very short wheelbase of 10' 3" and had a flangeless centre wheel, l decided to build the loco with extended water tanks, and l have name and cast number plates to add when painted, don't know what colour yet ?

 

George

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I know the model you have done the Sweden class I think. I built the Canal class as a commision some years back. It obviously was not to bad as he also had a Jinty from me.

  I remember it was very nice kit. I still have the leftover numbers and names in my stuff in the UK.

 

Mine was easy good old plain satin black.

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Next project, well l bought a Chowbent (Eric Underhill) Deeley 2f 0-6-0 tender engine at the right price, it was a bit untidy in many places so l have decided to blow the whole kit apart and start a fresh, the kit has been in a garage for quite some time, so the wheels and the chassis were solid with rust, so a major restoration will begin..

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