General US N Gauge Question

[Guest 40-something]

Hi Folks

 

The dark sides call is very loud at the moment...

 

Ive noticed that the majority of US outline N Gauge stock comes with knuckle couplers, my question is, how well do these work?

 

I have plans formulating in my head for a small switching layout...

[trisonic]

I am not a N Gauge modeller but you may find this information to be helpful:

 

http://www.nscaledivision.com/information_on_couplers.htm

 

Best, Pete.

[roundhouse]

I am not a N Gauge modeller but you may find this information to be helpful:

 

http://www.nscaledivision.com/information_on_couplers.htm

 

Best, Pete.

 

That's a good article on couplings. However it doesn't mention that much about the working of different types of N scale knuckle couplers with each other.

 

When I had an N scale layout (which did many exhibitionss) with switching on it, I found that the most reliable way of getting uncoupling of vehicles was to change all couplers to Microtrains. Kadee types do not couple or uncouple easily with other types. They are fine if you are running a set train formation. The Accumates and other types I found to be hit and miss when trying to uncouple over the magnets so these vehicles got changed to Microtrains.

 

On my current layout there is no switching so the more recent locos and rolling stock have generally kept their manufacturers knuckle couplings.

 

Ian

[Prof Klyzlr]

Dear Joe,

 

Just one guys experience, but if you want to "operate"

(irrespective of magnetic or manual uncoupling, you want

- the gear to couple up when it is pushed together,

- stay coupled up hill and down dale,

- and not feel like you have to "pick a lock" to get them uncoupled on demand)

 

then you need MicroTrains (MT) couplers on all, and make sure they are _always_ mounted at correct height,

(a coupler height gauge is worth its weight in gold).

 

http://www.micro-trains.com/

 

http://www.micro-trains.com/ConversionsN.php

 

Happy Modelling,

Aim to Improve,

Prof Klyzlr

[Barry Ten]

Agree with what's been said. Other brands like Accumates seem to work quite well with each other but not reliably with Micro-Trains and others. Where it matters, I am slowly standardising on MTL couplers. I also use the uncoupling magnets on sidings although I still have to manually uncouple on the main, since I found that the magnet caused too many unwanted uncoupling incidents.

 

My perception is that US modellers don't use the magnets very much, but I like the hands-off effect. The slow-running of locos etc is excellent.

[rodshaw]

To avoid unwanted uncouplings, you could always install electromagnets, but of course at a price. An alternative (though I've not tried it) is to install magnets on some kind of lifting device, so they pop up for operation and drop down under the track when not in use.

[Jon Gwinnett]

To avoid unwanted uncouplings, you could always install electromagnets, but of course at a price. An alternative (though I've not tried it) is to install magnets on some kind of lifting device, so they pop up for operation and drop down under the track when not in use.

 

On Menasha, I believe the magnets slide sideways under the track - uncoupling only working when the coupler is centred over the magnet.

[Neil Rogers]

i agree Microtrains couplers the best, the others are ok in a running train,

 

ref the magnets, i use electro in the main lines and mixed in the sidings and spurs etc

 

Neil

[Barry Ten]

On Menasha, I believe the magnets slide sideways under the track - uncoupling only working when the coupler is centred over the magnet.

 

Unfortunately that wasn't practical on my layout due to the way I "designed" the benchwork.

 

One other thing to watch for is that US rolling stock is still quite often equipped with magnetic uncouplers and magnetised weights in the body,

which is nonsensical when you think about it - either fit one or the other, but not both! It's excusable on older stock with Rapido couplers, and

the magnetised weights (or rather, weights which are attracted to magnets) are usually easy to remove, but it's not always the case; sometimes

the body casting, or a large part of it, is also attracted to the magnets.

[Guest 40-something]

Thanks for all of the replies folks, it certainly seems that standardising on MTLs is the way to go for reliable switching!