Rob Pulham Posted March 19, 2012 Share Posted March 19, 2012 After receiving an offer by Jonathan Wealleans to run my tank wagon on Assenby St Peter at Doncaster show which I couldn't take him up on. having seen the invite to see the layout in an expanded guise at Ormsby Show, which I can make. I decided that rather than just take my tanker I would like to have something to run on it - assuming that the invite is still open - The A3 is much too big and I am not sure that I will have the chassis sorted in time, so I decided to bite the bullet and build the Connoisseur Y6 that I got for Christmas. The plan being, to see if I could get it built and running in time for the show and then paint it later. I didn't stop to take photo's as I went along but now I have finished I have taken some pre painting - I do hope to have it painted as well for the show. Most of it follow's Jim's instructions even down to his basic suspension using a pivot for the front axle. Where I deviated from this was by the use of roller bearings and a piece of brass tube that goes over the roller bearing and allows for the axle movement via the pivot. The tube I had in stock was a bit big for the bearings but Jim includes some etched spacers in his kit to allow his bearings to be brought away from the chassis to minimise sideplay. I soldered a couple of these to each end of the tube and then reamed them out to take the roller bearings. My good lady bought me a Mashma motor and Jim's gear box to go with this but I elected to keep that for a project where I could use a flywheel and used the etched frame that Jim includes with all his loco's (I think) and a Roxey worm and gear along with a cheap Canon motor (all of £7 from ebay). The only other alterations were to tap the crank pin bushes 10ba and fit 10ba bolts/nuts to the wheels. For the roof detail. I replaced the white metal bell supplied with a brass one from the spares box (originally from Mike Cole, I believe ). The instructions have you using 0.9mm rod for the supports for the supports for the 0.45mm rod used for "operating" the bell. I decided to use some 34gauge brass wire twisted into a cord using a pin vice and a spare piece of rod. This I soldered to an arm which was soldered into a hoe drilled in the bell and bent to shape. I used a couple of long handrail knobs for the supports and thought it would be nice to be able to "operate" the bell from the cab at each end. To enable this I fitted a small piece of tube through the roof at each end and fed the cord through the handrail knob and down through the tube. The intention is to create a loop at each end for the crew to pull. The body is built as per the instructions with a minor addition. It is suggested that the body could be glued on post painting - I didn't fancy this idea so I tapped some tube 10BA and soldered four pieces in place under the side windows where they wouldn't be seen once the body and roof is on and four corresponding holes in the footplate and some brass 10BA screws and we have a removable body. The footplate and boiler again had a few additions - sprung brass buffers (again from Mike), a nice cast water gauge from Hobbyhorse (again from the spares box), and some Premier screw couplings. Having made the body removable I elected to solder the boiler in place. Jim recommends strengthening the side skirts as and aid to handing even suggesting using old rail for the job. I used some spare lengths of 00 nickel rail for this and then had a DOH!! moment when I couldn't get the cow catchers to fit as I had made them too long. After trying in vain to remove 10mm from each end while in situ, I warmed them up with the microflame and pulled them off. It was then the work of moments to shorten them and put them back - after fitting the cow catchers (once bitten!). Having fitted the safety chains while the buffer beams were on the bench I need to take a couple of links out of each to stop them dangling on the track. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Debs. Posted March 19, 2012 Share Posted March 19, 2012 Lovely work, Rob......very well done! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenglade Posted March 19, 2012 Share Posted March 19, 2012 Very nice Rob, I particulary love the extra detail for the bell, I just love super detailing.., Jim certainly produces nice kits. I also plan to compensate the suspension on Jim's J71 kit, I'm not sure if this is covered within Jim's instructions ( currently building the body first) so any advice as to which axles need doing would be much appreciated. I notice you've replaced the Y6 buffers for sprung versions, could you help with advice as to which company to approach for the correct type for the J71? Sorry for all the questions, there's so much I need to learn ..lol Oh and back on topic, the Y6 looks great... Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Worsdell forever Posted March 19, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 19, 2012 As ever Rob, superb. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted March 19, 2012 Author Share Posted March 19, 2012 Very nice Rob, I particulary love the extra detail for the bell, I just love super detailing.. , Jim certainly produces nice kits. I also plan to compensate the suspension on Jim's J71 kit, I'm not sure if this is covered within Jim's instructions ( currently building the body first) so any advice as to which axles need doing would be much appreciated. I notice you've replaced the Y6 buffers for sprung versions, could you help with advice as to which company to approach for the correct type for the J71? Sorry for all the questions, there's so much I need to learn ..lol Oh and back on topic, the Y6 looks great... Pete Thanks Pete, I would suggest Laurie Griffin (Shedmaster Models) for the buffers. As I mentioned above mine came in a bag full of Buffers that I got from Mike Cole (Resseldar) of this parish. I have just had a look in my N10 to see if he advises anything re suspension in there but there is nothing and quite surprisingly there only seems to be half etch marks for hornguides on the rear axle. So a bit of thinking about it is in order before I progress on that one - it's quite a way down the pile. I look forward to seeing progress on yours as one of these is on my wishlist. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Webbo Posted March 20, 2012 Share Posted March 20, 2012 Superb work and detailing again Rob. And you think cutting a few "W" irons is above your capabilities!!!!!!! Alan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenglade Posted March 20, 2012 Share Posted March 20, 2012 Thanks Rob I do have Laurie's catalodge although wasn't sure which buffers to order, perhaps I need to take another closer look.. Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Western Star Posted March 20, 2012 Share Posted March 20, 2012 I do have Laurie's catalodge although wasn't sure which buffers to order.. My son has built the Tram Engine and replaced the buffers from the kit with machined, sprung, buffers from Four Track Models (who had the correct style of buffer in his range). Now as John Shelley of Four Track Models has ceased trading and dsitributed his products across several suppliers the task is to find out where the buffers went... my money is on the person who bought the LNER / GER loco kits. If all else fails, post a queastion on the 7MM Yahoo Group as John reads that list regularly. regards, Graham Beare Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckjumper Posted March 20, 2012 Share Posted March 20, 2012 I thought they went to Gladiator, but if they did they haven't reappeared. Alternatives are the semi-self-contained 4-bolt parallel ones from Alan Gibson which have a cast w/m base, turned brass housing and turned steel head. Ragstone do two GE types in w/m - 4-bolt parallel and 8-bolt parallel. I've also got some GE tapered buffers to somewhere - Prestige, I think. And nicely done, Rob! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted March 20, 2012 Author Share Posted March 20, 2012 Pete, Stunning work! I love the Wisbech stock and you've bung up (another) gorgeous looking loco. Most definitely looking forward to it's finishing and painting. Real inspirational. Mike Pete???? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted March 20, 2012 Author Share Posted March 20, 2012 My son has built the Tram Engine and replaced the buffers from the kit with machined, sprung, buffers from Four Track Models (who had the correct style of buffer in his range). Now as John Shelley of Four Track Models has ceased trading and dsitributed his products across several suppliers the task is to find out where the buffers went... my money is on the person who bought the LNER / GER loco kits. If all else fails, post a queastion on the 7MM Yahoo Group as John reads that list regularly. regards, Graham Beare I thought they went to Gladiator, but if they did they haven't reappeared. Alternatives are the semi-self-contained 4-bolt parallel ones from Alan Gibson which have a cast w/m base, turned brass housing and turned steel head. Ragstone do two GE types in w/m - 4-bolt parallel and 8-bolt parallel. I've also got some GE tapered buffers to somewhere - Prestige, I think. And nicely done, Rob! Thanks Guys, Unless I have it wrong I think Pete is asking for buffers for the J71 not the tram engine Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckjumper Posted March 20, 2012 Share Posted March 20, 2012 Unless I have it wrong I think Pete is asking for buffers for the J71 not the tram engine Quite right Rob, I was just responding to Graham's musing over the Fourtrack GE buffers. I don't think Laurie does buffers - at least they're not in his most recent catalogue, however, Gladiator do three types of NER loco buffer, all of which I believe came from Fourtrack. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted March 20, 2012 Author Share Posted March 20, 2012 Thanks Adrian, I hadn't realised that Laurie didn't do buffers, I too looked at his latest list. I had based my false assumption on the fact that 7mmMick of this parish sent me a list of parts for a scratch build of a J73. Most of which are Laurie's parts but it wasn't until actually consulting said list that I realised that it doesn't include buffers either. Sorry Pete I have had you running off in the wrong direction. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckjumper Posted March 20, 2012 Share Posted March 20, 2012 That's OK - you had me scrabbling back and forth through Laurie's list thinking 'why can't I see the buffers...?' Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted March 20, 2012 Author Share Posted March 20, 2012 Just to prove it does actually move and pull some thing here are a couple of videos of it in action. http://s1181.photobu...nt=FILE0088.mp4 http://s1181.photobu...nt=FILE0093.mp4 Apologies for the poor video quality I haven't quite got the hang of it yet...... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenglade Posted March 20, 2012 Share Posted March 20, 2012 Thanks Adrian, I hadn't realised that Laurie didn't do buffers, I too looked at his latest list. I had based my false assumption on the fact that 7mmMick of this parish sent me a list of parts for a scratch build of a J73. Most of which are Laurie's parts but it wasn't until actually consulting said list that I realised that it doesn't include buffers either. Sorry Pete I have had you running off in the wrong direction. No prob Ron, I've checked the Gladiator catalogue that I got from Kettering and see the 3 NER as mentioned. Would I be correct in thinking that "NER parallel loco plain 13" is the one for me? The castings in the kit are parallel so I'm guessing these are the correct buffers got a J71? I like the vids Rob... Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckjumper Posted March 20, 2012 Share Posted March 20, 2012 No prob Ron, Ron???? I see a theme developing I've checked the Gladiator catalogue that I got from Kettering and see the 3 NER as mentioned. Would I be correct in thinking that "NER parallel loco plain 13" is the one for me? The castings in the kit are parallel so I'm guessing these are the correct buffers got a J71? Don't know to be honest - I'm not particularly au fait with NER locos. Logically, If the castings in the kit are a smidgen over 7mm long then the 13" ones are for you. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenglade Posted March 21, 2012 Share Posted March 21, 2012 Thanks Pete, I would suggest Laurie Griffin (Shedmaster Models) for the buffers. As I mentioned above mine came in a bag full of Buffers that I got from Mike Cole (Resseldar) of this parish. I have just had a look in my N10 to see if he advises anything re suspension in there but there is nothing and quite surprisingly there only seems to be half etch marks for hornguides on the rear axle. So a bit of thinking about it is in order before I progress on that one - it's quite a way down the pile. I look forward to seeing progress on yours as one of these is on my wishlist. Well Rob I have now got around to reading what Jim has to say regarding building the chassis (his I structions start with the body) and he does mention what he calls " sloppy axle compensation" . If I understand this correctly, there are two chassis spacers that have a vertical oval hole etched in each, a length of 2mm brass tube is slid through these holes and soldered in place while bearing down upon the axle, this is then removed and it's holes are reamed out 10-15 thou oversize. The claim is that this allows around 5 thou rock each side and also helps with the pick ups. Jim does however state that the Scale 7 boys will have a fit with this method but says it works very well, not sure if I'll use this method or not although since the body is close to completion I best start thinking about it. Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
alant Posted March 21, 2012 Share Posted March 21, 2012 Hi Pete, Be careful as I think Jim probably means open out the axle hole top and bottom only as opening out all round would presumably create problems with running. I seem to remember employing this method on his starter kit many years ago now! Alan. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenglade Posted March 21, 2012 Share Posted March 21, 2012 Hi Pete, Be careful as I think Jim probably means open out the axle hole top and bottom only as opening out all round would presumably create problems with running. I seem to remember employing this method on his starter kit many years ago now! Alan. Hi Alan I hear what your saying and agree with you, however I don't think that's what Jim intended. He states to use a tapered reamer 20 thou under and 40 thou over the axle bearing size. To quote : " refit the axle and you will have a rock of about 5 thou on each side which does wonders for pick up" Perhaps he didn't mean it the way I've read it, no worries I don't intend to follow this route, I'm not at this stage anyway as I haven't bought the wheels/axles or motor yet. Bodies coming on though, thanks for the heads up Alan.. Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
alant Posted March 21, 2012 Share Posted March 21, 2012 Hi Alan I hear what your saying and agree with you, however I don't think that's what Jim intended. He states to use a tapered reamer 20 thou under and 40 thou over the axle bearing size. To quote : " refit the axle and you will have a rock of about 5 thou on each side which does wonders for pick up" Perhaps he didn't mean it the way I've read it, no worries I don't intend to follow this route, I'm not at this stage anyway as I haven't bought the wheels/axles or motor yet. Bodies coming on though, thanks for the heads up Alan.. Pete Pete, Yes I agree it does suggest opening the hole out completely doesn't it. I don't profess to be an expert of any kind but have managed to build Jim's 4F and Jinty kits and have managed to get them to run with a bit of fettling around opening out the coupling rod holes and that sort of thing. Have so far always had a rigid chassis though with the centre wheels just slightly higher than the outside ones as they seem to be designed that way. I do like his straighforward approach to things though and everything seems to fit pretty well also. Best of luck with the rest of the build (sorry for highjacking your thread Rob - nice looking build by the way). Alan. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenton Posted March 21, 2012 Share Posted March 21, 2012 I don't approve of this method and what is more I think it creates more problems than it solves. I would much rather place my faith in an aligned fixed chassis or go the whole way and spring the thing properly. I find that even 1.5mm movement shows itself as lopsided and rocking ... it is only an excuse for really poor track laying after all. As great as Jim's kits are, once again the instructions for a novice (starter kit) are written by someone who knows and understands what he writes but doesn't read it back from the point of view of someone who doesn't. Rob, that is a lovely looking model and the extra details look worth the effort. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted March 21, 2012 Author Share Posted March 21, 2012 No prob Ron, I've checked the Gladiator catalogue that I got from Kettering and see the 3 NER as mentioned. Would I be correct in thinking that "NER parallel loco plain 13" is the one for me? The castings in the kit are parallel so I'm guessing these are the correct buffers got a J71? I like the vids Rob... Pete Hi Pete, Sadly I don't have the RCTS green book or Yeadon volume relevant to the J71 (Most of mine seem to be for tender engines....). I did have a look on the LNER.Info site though and the buffers for the J71's in the main look to be parallel. Although one of the lower photos in the link may have Spencer buffers - it's not that big a photo. I am not sure if this is of any help? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted March 22, 2012 Author Share Posted March 22, 2012 I took a couple of better quality videos last night. My good lady even had me tidy up the background http://youtu.be/LTMx0QxC7aU http://youtu.be/ImpFSVgipMU Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 It is nice to see something that has only been in still photographs actually moving. Well done yet another lovely model. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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