trisonic Posted December 9, 2011 Share Posted December 9, 2011 Assuming I have loose heeled switches but unsprung (i.e. NOT like Peco) which Caboose throw do I need? Â I think I know, I just want someone with experience with them to confirm. Â Btw are the Caboose ones still the only game in town? Â Cheers, Pete. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prof Klyzlr Posted December 9, 2011 Share Posted December 9, 2011 Assuming I have loose heeled switches but unsprung (i.e. NOT like Peco) which Caboose throw do I need?  I think I know, I just want someone with experience with them to confirm.  Btw are the Caboose ones still the only game in town?  Cheers, Pete.  Dear Pete,  I use CI 218S N scale groundthrows as my "go-to" solution for the following  - handlaid HOn30 - PECO N scale code 80 with centre spring removed - HO handlaid - PECO HO scale Code 100 "streamline", "setrack", Code 83 "US", and Code 75 "Finescale" (all with centre-spring removed) - On30 handlaid - O SG handlaid  Under all conditions, the 218S has provided flawless operation, simple "user interface", and is compatible with direct-to-turnout mounting and "wire-in-tube" extension mounting.  I'm not saying CI is the _only_ game in town, but it's what I can readily obtain here, they work, and IMHO I see no reason to go looking for any other solution to a already-solved problem...  For live-fire examples, check "Brooklyn : 3am", "ChicagO Fork", "ChicagHO Fork"... :-)  Happy Modelling, Aim to Improve, Prof Klyzlr Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
davknigh Posted December 10, 2011 Share Posted December 10, 2011 Pete, Â You might want to have a look here; http://www.proto87.com/switch-machine-turnout-controls.html Halfway down the page. Usual disclaimer. Â HTH Â David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
trisonic Posted December 10, 2011 Author Share Posted December 10, 2011 I saw those, David. Whilst manual they are still remotely operated. What I was thinking of are the Caboose type then convert to "backsaver" levers (which is what I'm seeing over here on the prototype). Â Thanks, Prof! Â Best, Pete. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gene Posted December 10, 2011 Share Posted December 10, 2011 Pete...I think Shortliner did exactly that..he posted pictures somewhere on the net...give him a shout about it. Â Gene Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortliner Posted December 10, 2011 Share Posted December 10, 2011 Pete, 2 versions of converted Caboose Industry switch throws - unlike the Prof - I leave the springs in Peco switches - these simply have the operating arm snipped off, a small hole drilled where it was, and bent Paperclip wire epoxied into the hole. There are also purely cosmetic ones available in metal - place beside the end of the throw-bar and use the point of the uncoupler to move the turnouts - if you leave the "nub" on the end of the throw-bar fit a piece of tube of an appropriate size to the other end of the bamboo skewer uncoupler and move the turnout by putting the tube over the "nub". Sorry the last isn't terribly clear, but the throw wasn't being focussed on! Â Â Â Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
trisonic Posted December 10, 2011 Author Share Posted December 10, 2011 I thought I had remembered seeing that, Jack! I was going to use handrail wire........  These are the points I am (probably) going to use (because Peco #8's are $38.00 a throw - pun intended - before tax over here): http://www.proto87.com/super-fine-easy-ho-turnouts.html  Best, Pete. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortliner Posted December 10, 2011 Share Posted December 10, 2011 Hand rail wire should be fine - I used the paperclip as I had it to hand! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
alastairq Posted December 10, 2011 Share Posted December 10, 2011 pardon my observations, but on the proto87 site, those single ground throw levers look suspiciously like those once marketed in the Uk 40 years ago or more....GEm, or Wrenn, perhaps?...I seem to recall they came in a bag with a yellow card label... Â I have some of the older Gem levers, which worked in much the same way as the CI one's, except the rotating drum had a groove cut into it, instead of a moulded ridge.... I re-cycle these whenever I had a change of modelling direction..... Â I once made my own 'throw's with diamond targets...linked to Peco throw bars,non-functioning as far as original purpose was concerned, the targets swivelled as the peco blades were thrown...[not allowed to interfere with the maker's spec on HO modules..wrist-slap-time. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CraigZ Posted December 11, 2011 Share Posted December 11, 2011 Pete, make certain whichever version you buy that you get the sprung type (with the "S" in the part number). If you don't you'll have to provide your own spring in the form of a zig-zag length of brass wire to allow the throw to go all the over and lock into place... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
trisonic Posted December 11, 2011 Author Share Posted December 11, 2011 Thanks, everybody! Yeah, that's what I figured, Craig, ta for confirming. Â Best, Pete. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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