RMweb Gold roundhouse Posted February 14, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 14, 2013 Dave Thats a good idea using htem on 009. Its a shame that the 4 of us who have a large collection on 009 (to run on Bourne Valley) have now generally fitted Greenwich and District Bemo compatible couplers. However if I were to do a full on L & B layout then I might just change all of my L & B stock. Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulncc1705 Posted February 15, 2013 Share Posted February 15, 2013 I've fitted Neodymium magnets completely under the track in holes cut in the cork tile without needing to cut or thin the track sleepers , they work very well being a stronger magnet than the Dapol ones so they can be set under the track rather than in it. I have used 50mm by 10mm magnets set apart like the small magnets that are shown in other posts here which means I don't need to be so precise with my shunting moves. Just thought I'd share that incase it was useful to anyone.Found the magnets on "first4magnets.com" they do many shapes and sizes including the tiny round ones but come with a warning about handling as if 2 suddenly fly together they can and will shatter as I found out with one pair Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnlambert Posted February 17, 2013 Share Posted February 17, 2013 I've ordered the NEM conversion kit from Hatton's, along with a couple of Peco wagon kits so that I could practice without risking any of my existing stock. The instructions made everything simple and I'm pleased to say that the first conversion was a success. Following that conversion I decided to have a go with one of the bogies on a Dapol Collett brake coach. This was slightly more challenging and I think the pocket sits slightly too high (by maybe half a millimetre) but not enough to affect how the coach runs or to prevent the magnetic couplings from performing as they should. I also ordered a pair of short and a pair of long-arm magnetic couplings as I didn't want to order a larger quantity without finding out which length works best on my layout. I've not quite got the skill for shunting without the couplings re-engaging but I'm happy enough that I can shunt stock into a siding and leave it there then go back for it without any manual intervention (using the Dapol magnet). Next job will be to buy some neodymium magnets and experiment with them. My first experience of the magnetic couplings was one of frustration thanks to losing one spring then losing the replacements too (I just don't have the dexterity to re-fit the springs, it seems), but I'm glad I persevered. Thanks to those who suggested a drop of glue on the end of the spring to keep it in place, I've done that with all my new couplings so hopefully no more lost springs. I'll be buying more magnetic couplings and performing more NEM conversions on my stock. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold roundhouse Posted February 17, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 17, 2013 maybe it would be a good idea to have a separate place to put all our conversion photos so that they build up into a coherent workbench type thread? I have started a separate topic just for conversion as I thought your idea was a good one. http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/68401-modifying-stock-to-take-Dapol-easy-shunt-magnetic-couplings/ Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
engage Posted February 26, 2013 Share Posted February 26, 2013 (edited) ....Anyone looking for help on the following box conversions please go to link. GF container flat Dapol Collett coach GF Class 66 GF 100T Bogey Tank Wagons NGS Kit 009a Polybulk bogey wagon Union Mills Tender drive GF/Bachmann VGA GF Mk 3 bogie coach GF Bachmann Class 50 Modifying stock to take Dapol Easy Shunt magnetic couplings - Modifying & Detailing RTR stock - RMweb Cheers John Edited March 12, 2013 by engage Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold roundhouse Posted February 26, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 26, 2013 (edited) Here is my updated experience with these couplings. The one big downside of these couplings is if you lose a spring. They appear to be steel so they are attracted by the slightest magnetic source (even a brand new knife blade) and being silver are very hard to find. Also they way the spares are packed they get intertwined more so that the Kadee or Microtrains ones. I have lost a lot trying separate them as they will either fly off all together or will break whilst trying to separate them. On Sunday I lost 11 out of 12 springs under the illuminated magnifying glass) because of them being so intertwined in the little clear bag. If htey were brass / bronze as per the kadee or Microtrians ones then they wold bem uch easier to see and non magnetic. Ok they would be more visible once in place but I can live with that The best solutiion to avoid having to replace the springs in the first place (as has been mentioned before in this topic) is to get a bit of glue onto one end of the spring and coupler as you remove them from the package and leave to dry. Do be careful as to how much glue you put on as its very easy to get this inyo the mechanism which then stops the knuckle closing quickly enough or not at all. I have learnt this the hard way so hopefully any more packets of them will result in more care adding this bit of glue to hold the spring. Despite the above, once they are in place and working proprly I think they are much better than the rapidos. Ian Edited February 26, 2013 by roundhouse Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonas Posted February 27, 2013 Share Posted February 27, 2013 I used a drop of Johnson's Kleer (or any carnish really) to secure the springs on mine. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bridgiesimon Posted May 8, 2013 Share Posted May 8, 2013 That is a good hint about the Kleer, I will do that right away. I have been playing around with some of these this afternoon with the possibility of using them on my narrow gauge layout. Decision made, I like them!!! With the conversion kit they are easy to fit and work reliably - Well done Dapol!! Simon 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
locofan Posted October 4, 2013 Share Posted October 4, 2013 I have a selection of n gauge peco wagons (two are farish) plus rather a lot of farish coaches? How do I know if they are NEM compatible? I'm not sure how I'd know. Cheers Cameron Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karhedron Posted October 4, 2013 Share Posted October 4, 2013 I do not think any of the Peco stuff is NEM compatible yet (although I could be wrong). With Farish, it depends on the age of the coaches. Most of the modern ones have NEM pockets while the older ones do not. Once you know what NEM pockets look like, it is quite easy tell but it is a lot easier to show than to explain verbally. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
locofan Posted October 4, 2013 Share Posted October 4, 2013 Might be an idea to sell all my rolling stock and start afresh Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Kris Posted October 5, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 5, 2013 The wagons can be modified. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ian b Posted October 8, 2013 Share Posted October 8, 2013 Might be an idea to sell all my rolling stock and start afresh Not necessary! You can convert the non-nems really easily by slightly opening out the slot at the front of the coupling box, twisting an easi-shunt into place and securing with superglue. I've converted old Farish coaches, peco box vans and older non-nem locos by doing this with no probs at all! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
locofan Posted October 11, 2013 Share Posted October 11, 2013 is it possible to convert farish locos (non dcc ready) to accept the Dapol easi shunt couplings? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wherry Lines Posted October 11, 2013 Share Posted October 11, 2013 Yes, but you'll need to modify the coupler mount if the model does not come with an NEM pocket. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ian b Posted October 18, 2013 Share Posted October 18, 2013 is it possible to convert farish locos (non dcc ready) to accept the Dapol easi shunt couplings? It's simple and reversible! You need to pop the bogie frame off then, using a craft knife or similar, take a tiny sliver off each side of the front of the frame to allow the Dapol coupling to sit in there squarely. Put the coupling in and secure (I used superglue which is fairly permanent but pva would hold it in place and be easily removed to revert back). Let it dry and pop the frame back in place- job done! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold roundhouse Posted October 18, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 18, 2013 It's simple and reversible! You need to pop the bogie frame off then, using a craft knife or similar, take a tiny sliver off each side of the front of the frame to allow the Dapol coupling to sit in there squarely. Put the coupling in and secure (I used superglue which is fairly permanent but pva would hold it in place and be easily removed to revert back). Let it dry and pop the frame back in place- job done! I think that even the superglue will come off if need be as the plastic is a slightly flexible. I have used PVA / canopy glue where the coupling has gone in tightly but if its a little loose then superglue sets whilst holding the coupler level. Be careful not to make the slot too wide otherwise it wont be easy to retrofit the rapidos back into the bogie frame. ian Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ian b Posted October 18, 2013 Share Posted October 18, 2013 I tried to remove a medium length to replace it with a short arm but the superglue wouldn't give! Ended up removing it with a knife unfortunately! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Garnet Posted May 22, 2014 Share Posted May 22, 2014 Will Gaugemaster or Peco electro magnets operate the Dapol Easi-shunt ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karhedron Posted May 22, 2014 Share Posted May 22, 2014 No, I don't think so. They both have a single pole near the track. Dapol couplers need opposed magnetic poles near each rail. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Crepello Posted January 31, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 31, 2015 (edited) After a frustrating time attempting to get the Dapol SHORT Easi-shunts to work with rare-earth magnets (the LONG ones worked reasonably), I've tried the Dapol magnets; I cut 7 sleepers away with a slitting disc (on the slowest speed to avoid a meltdown) and placed the magnet in position. Result--success! I then cut the magnet in half, resting on a piece of wood, again with the slitting disc and snapping it when a decent groove had been made. The couplers still work, plus you then have 2 magnets for the price of 1 and only 4 sleepers need removing. The appearance isn't bad either, but I'll experiment with a layer of ballast on and around the magnet to see the effect before installing in the goods yard. Edited February 5, 2015 by Crepello 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Crepello Posted February 5, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 5, 2015 Once I tested this installation, I found that trains running over the magnet (as if on the main line) would split. After applying a thin coat of Evo-stik Impact and sprinkling with Woodland Scenics fine ballast, I found the magnet's power was slightly reduced and the splitting didn't occur; the shunting was still good. Above post edited to amend 3 to 4 sleepers needing removing--apologies for the error. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
David41283 Posted March 3, 2015 Share Posted March 3, 2015 Evening all, Just when I was starting to think that Dapol only made the replacement/spare springs as an instrument of torture, I think I may have come up with a method for installing springs back into the couplers, just in time to save my sanity. 1. Separating the spare springs. I made the mistake of thinking they were intertwined and ruined several by trying to pull them apart. However most of mine have simply been pulled together by a low-level magnetism. Carefully sliding the back of a knife blade between them proved a good way of getting them apart, with the added bonus that they then remained on the knife blade and didn't spring off into the carpet! 2. Get a single spring on the end of a cocktail stick (very slightly moistening the tip of the cocktail stick helps a bit here). Actually get the point of the cocktail stick down through the middle of the spring. 3. Very carefully dip the very end of the spring in a tiny drop of PVA glue. You only want an absolutely tiny bit on the very end of the spring. Too much of a "dip" in the glue will result in the spring coming off the cocktail stick and staying in the glue! 4. Line up the spring with the pip on the back of the coupler head, and slide the spring off the cocktail stick onto the pip. Hopefully the tiny bit of PVA will provide enough adhesion around the locating pip that you can withdraw the cocktail stick leaving the spring fixed at one end on the back of the coupler head. 5. After a few seconds of drying time, roughly locate the free end of the spring into the gap at the shank end of the coupler, then open the knuckle as wide as you can (compacting the spring in the gap) and hopefully, with a little guidance the spring should now be in the right place and the coupling should work again! I hope this helps someone - I've just managed to get 5 working again with this method. Cheers David 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Crepello Posted March 5, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 5, 2015 Since my experiments above (post 399), I've installed half-magnets in my goods yard and on the main line, so I can introduce the concept of shunting to Eastbury Loops. A word of warning though--it's seriously addictive and I've identified several more locos and wagons to fit with Easi-Shunts. Thankfully Hatton's (no connection) have them all on their site under 'Spares'. They're such a great product so I'm wondering why Dapol haven't brought out a OO range too. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold roundhouse Posted March 5, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 5, 2015 (edited) Since my experiments above (post 399), I've installed half-magnets in my goods yard and on the main line, so I can introduce the concept of shunting to Eastbury Loops. A word of warning though--it's seriously addictive and I've identified several more locos and wagons to fit with Easi-Shunts. Thankfully Hatton's (no connection) have them all on their site under 'Spares'. They're such a great product so I'm wondering why Dapol haven't brought out a OO range too. Kadee do knuckle couplers (various lengths to fit in NEM pockets aswell) which many already use including me on my European HO, British outline OO and USA HO so I doubt that there is a market for another OO / HO coupler. Those that have tried to match Kadee couplers still dont get them quite as good as Kadee in my oprinon either so I often change any over to Kadees. Edited April 7, 2015 by roundhouse Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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