shortliner Posted November 24, 2011 Share Posted November 24, 2011 I have one which is proving very reluctant to run - I'm not sure if there is a dodgy motor connection as it seems loose in the frame. I got the shell off without a problem. but cannot see whether the problem lies in the motor or drive. The fuel tank seems to have 4 plugs in it - does that need to come off, and are there screws underneath it? Help would be much appreciated. Also won a n Ernst re-gearing kit on ebay last night, so I need to remove the bogies from either that, or preferably from an Athearn SW1500 - so info on that would be appreciated too. TIA Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold roundhouse Posted November 24, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 24, 2011 I have one which is proving very reluctant to run - I'm not sure if there is a dodgy motor connection as it seems loose in the frame. I got the shell off without a problem. but cannot see whether the problem lies in the motor or drive. The fuel tank seems to have 4 plugs in it - does that need to come off, and are there screws underneath it? Help would be much appreciated. Also won a set of Ernst gears on ebay last night, so I need to remove the bogies from either that, or preferably from an Athearn SW1500 - so info on that would be appreciated too. TIA If its an older style Athearn with the integral cast fuel tank, then those plugs you can see are normally an off white and can be pushed out from underneath with blunt object. The motor will come out with these rubbery plugs / motor fixings. Just remember in what order the drive shafts etc. go back on and that you dont stab yourselve when the motor comes out! Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glorious NSE Posted November 24, 2011 Share Posted November 24, 2011 Yep - those 'plugs' are a pair of rubber blocks that anchor the motor, just push them out (or pull the motor hard if it's one you can't break chassis detail on!) to get it out. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Scottish Modeller Posted November 24, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 24, 2011 I have one which is proving very reluctant to run - I'm not sure if there is a dodgy motor connection as it seems loose in the frame. I got the shell off without a problem. but cannot see whether the problem lies in the motor or drive. The fuel tank seems to have 4 plugs in it - does that need to come off, and are there screws underneath it? Help would be much appreciated. Also won a n Ernst re-gearing kit on ebay last night, so I need to remove the bogies from either that, or preferably from an Athearn SW1500 - so info on that would be appreciated too. TIA Hi Jack, If you are coming to Falkirk... Bring all the bits with you and we will assist! Thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortliner Posted November 24, 2011 Author Share Posted November 24, 2011 Thanks for the advice, guys - got the motor out, but the blocks appear to have perished and fell apart -I shall have to see if I can remould them in something else - Have to deliver next door neighbour to hospital - will reappear later when I can see if the motor runs or not - may be going for a replacement chassis! and thanks for the offer Phil - much appreciated Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glorious NSE Posted November 24, 2011 Share Posted November 24, 2011 On those old ones the rubber blocks also held the motor the right distance for the wiper connection under it to touch the chassis, which was live. If they weren't holding the motor down that may be part of the trouble? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndrewC Posted November 24, 2011 Share Posted November 24, 2011 Jack, a simple bodge is to tap drill the chassis and put a small screw in. Then solder a wire connecting it to the motor. A good splat of silicone sealant will hold the motor in place. While you're at it solder a wire from the other motor connection to the pickups so they don't rely on the metal tab. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortliner Posted November 24, 2011 Author Share Posted November 24, 2011 Cheers Guys - having got the motor out it will barely turn over on 12 volts - I suspect the magnets are shot - further thoughts ensue Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndrewC Posted November 24, 2011 Share Posted November 24, 2011 Wish I could help but my last spare motor went into a CN GP9 a few weeks back. Troll Ebay for a cheap junker to use is my only other suggestion. Its where I get my spare parts from. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
doctor quinn Posted November 24, 2011 Share Posted November 24, 2011 Jack, I have a spare Athearn motor (or 2), PM me if it'll help. Nick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold roundhouse Posted November 24, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 24, 2011 If you plan on going DCC at any point you will need to separate the motor pick up from the chassis, so wiring it up now will make it easier later if you do. Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Gwinnett Posted November 25, 2011 Share Posted November 25, 2011 Jack, PM sent Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortliner Posted November 25, 2011 Author Share Posted November 25, 2011 Jon - Replied Nick - Pm sent Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibber25 Posted November 25, 2011 Share Posted November 25, 2011 Just fixing some track on Model Rail's test layout and, in my toolbox, are two of the plastic motor fixing blocks from an Athearn diesel. (Some DCC harnesses for Athearn models include spare blocks). If you need them, just let me know. CHRIS LEIGH Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortliner Posted November 29, 2011 Author Share Posted November 29, 2011 Thanks to Nick Quinn for him kindliy sending me another new motor, I am pleased to announce that it has been fitting and runs perfectly on the rolling road beside me, ticking quitely away on the desk top. Thank you to others who offered advice - and explanations - about how to get the motor out of the chassis Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CraigZ Posted December 1, 2011 Share Posted December 1, 2011 On the old motor...if the motor clips (top and bottom) aren't snug, two things happen. One, the motor brushes might not be getting good contact, but more important is two - loose clips allow the motor's end bells to get out of parallel. And that puts a bind on the bearings. The new style Athearn motors suffer from the same ailment and I check it if I get an Athearn that runs poorly... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
F-UnitMad Posted December 2, 2011 Share Posted December 2, 2011 The new style Athearn motors suffer from the same ailment and I check it if I get an Athearn that runs poorly... ..and the cure is..? Yes if the clips are a bit loose, tighten them, but how? is my point... does crimping the ends a bit help, or something else? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortliner Posted December 2, 2011 Author Share Posted December 2, 2011 Thanks, Craig but everything appears to be properly positioned - I suspect it is just a VERY old motor (It has steel, not brass) flywheels), and the magnets are shot Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CraigZ Posted December 2, 2011 Share Posted December 2, 2011 ..and the cure is..? Yes if the clips are a bit loose, tighten them, but how? is my point... does crimping the ends a bit help, or something else? Usually if they're loose, they're loose a lot...as in not clipped. The rare one I've had otherwise I managed to tweak with some judicious use of chain nose pliers (needle nose with round jaws). Or swiping parts off another parts motor... Ancient motors...I believe those were actually sintered iron flywheels. Those motors could pull some amps too...! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortliner Posted December 2, 2011 Author Share Posted December 2, 2011 As an addition to this original thread - I have an ERNST replacement gearset for a 4-axle Athearn switcher (in fact I've another tucked away somewhere) has anyone had any experience and thoughts about fitting it - of course the next question is " and how do you get the bogies out?" - but you saw that one coming, didn't you? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
doctor quinn Posted December 2, 2011 Share Posted December 2, 2011 Hi Jack You need to level the worm covers off from one side of the truck, they have a couple of "wings" that retain the truck to the chassis. To split the truck, prise off the rectangular U profile gear cover on the bottom and the small U section clip on top. Does the Earnst kit incude instructions/diagrams, it would make things easier. Nick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortliner Posted December 2, 2011 Author Share Posted December 2, 2011 TBH it only arrived at lunchtime and I haven't opened it, and I put the other one away very carefully (you know what is coming!) - that way I know that all the bits that should be in there, ARE! If I open it and then put it to one side, sods law says that when I come to fit it, the most important bit will have departed - never to be seen again! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CraigZ Posted December 4, 2011 Share Posted December 4, 2011 As an addition to this original thread - I have an ERNST replacement gearset for a 4-axle Athearn switcher (in fact I've another tucked away somewhere) has anyone had any experience and thoughts about fitting it - of course the next question is " and how do you get the bogies out?" - but you saw that one coming, didn't you? My personal recommendation on the Ernst kits is...don't. The gears often run out of true (off center holes). In addition, Athearn flywheels are rarely perfectly balanced, and the reduction gearing in the Ernst makes the motor spin much faster...and they get noisy in a bad way. You'll get much better, smoother performance repowering the model with a nice Mashima or similar... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prof Klyzlr Posted December 4, 2011 Share Posted December 4, 2011 My recommendation on the Ernst regear kits is...don't. They will make the locomotive much noisier and not in a good way. The gears often run out of round from off center shaft holes. These regear kits came out in the grey motor/grey flywheel days and if there's any imbalance in the flywheels (from not being square on the shaft - a common issue) the higher RPM will make it very noticeable. Use the ones for the Athearn RDCs (to lose the belt drive) but otherwise avoid the Ernst kits...in my opinion of course Honestly, you'll get much better performance out of repowering the switcher with a proper can motor... Dear Jack, Can't say I have any experience with ERNST regear kits, but the "added noise" Craig mentions meshes with freedback I've recieved from other ERNST users. The ratio goes up, so does the RPMs of many of the mechanism parts, and the ambient gearnoise follows in consequence. Honestly, given a basic service, and assuming - a "Gold side" factory motor + "goldish color" flywheels, (these are usually the ones that also started coming from the factory with NS wheels, NWSL do drop-in replacements for the previously sintered-iron wheels), - and a 1/2 decent analog throttle, (Homebruise unit costing all of AUD$20), I've never had any issues crawling "stock mech" Athearn BB locos at 1 sleeper/sec. (Of course, the Horizon-era units with Mashima motors as stock are an improvement... ;-) ). FWIW, the common Athearn BB gear ratio is around 14:1, which NWSL for many years considered a good match between power, speed, and gearnoise... Happy Modelling, Aim to Improve, Prof Klyzlr Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortliner Posted December 4, 2011 Author Share Posted December 4, 2011 Cheers Guys for the info - always best to ask! Do you have a circuit for the throttle, John? - they are always of interest! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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