Judith Edge kits

[cctransuk]

Thanks, tried that in a slightly different application, ie sleeving an axle in an RTR conversion. Didn't work, not at all. Which is why I'm concerned here.

 

Regards

 

For sleeving worms to fit motor shafts, it works every time for me.

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

[polybear]

They're 10x15mm with a 1mm shaft. I just wish I would find a source with just the motor and a shaft long enough to take a worm, so they could replace the Mashima 10x15 and couple to High Level gearboxes by sleeving the shaft to 1.5mm.

 

They are 3-6v but who drives the small industrial locos that you'd fit these to on more than 6v of the 0-12v DC anyway? Perhaps put a resistor in to limit the voltage throughout the range?

 

The shaft dia. seems to be 3mm

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-6V-DC-Small-Micro-Geared-Box-Electric-Motor-High-Quality-M-C/302540103242?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131017132637%26meid%3Dc5aaf472a16b42129351d78c96554ee5%26pid%3D100033%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D8%26sd%3D112754923985&_trksid=p2045573.c100033.m2042

[Arthur]

 

There are lots of these motors and motor/gearbox combos avaialable on eBay from China.

 

I’ve no experience of the motor/gearbox combos but there are 12v motors with 1.5mm shafts cheaply and readily available.

 

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F292347465800

 

.

[Nile]

They're 10x15mm with a 1mm shaft. I just wish I would find a source with just the motor and a shaft long enough to take a worm, so they could replace the Mashima 10x15 and couple to High Level gearboxes by sleeving the shaft to 1.5mm.

 

They are 3-6v but who drives the small industrial locos that you'd fit these to on more than 6v of the 0-12v DC anyway? Perhaps put a resistor in to limit the voltage throughout the range?

 

1015 motor alternative available here:

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/N-Drive-1015-12v-DC-micro-motor/182870714017?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

[Barry O]

the one Mike has in the 14" Hunset is very controllable and means you can shunt the MD&HB part of Herculaneum at a very sedate pace.

 

Baz

[Jordan-Leeds]

What would the chances be of orbell in 1:64. S scale ?

[Ruston]

The shaft dia. seems to be 3mm

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-6V-DC-Small-Micro-Geared-Box-Electric-Motor-High-Quality-M-C/302540103242?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131017132637%26meid%3Dc5aaf472a16b42129351d78c96554ee5%26pid%3D100033%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D8%26sd%3D112754923985&_trksid=p2045573.c100033.m2042

The output of the gearbox is 3mm but the shaft of the motor to which it is attached is 1mm.You can remove the gearbox but the motor shaft that sticks out has a gear on and if you were to remove that gear it would only leave about 2mm of shaft, which iis too short to take a worm. What I meant was to find a source of the motors but suitable to take a worm, of 1.5mm I.D. by sleeving the shaft so they can be used with HL gearboxes.

 

 

1015 motor alternative available here:

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/N-Drive-1015-12v-DC-micro-motor/182870714017?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

i have one of these motors and when viewed from the side opposite that shown it has the same slots and same plastic end as in as those with the gearbox. The shaft is also 1mm, which makes me think they may be made by the same manufacturer. At £7.50 it's not a bad price when compared with the £20+ that people want for the remaning Mashimas but if we could find the Chinese source they could be got a lot cheaper than that. I have searched ebay but have never turned up anything of the same size direct from China.

 

Sorry, Mike, for hjacking your thread but I suppose it helps people to power your kits. 

[peach james]

 

WP_20180105_12_39_51_Pro.jpg

Also on the bench is this North Eastern EF1 for a customer, to be painted as BR 26509. We've had this kit in the range for a long time now with fairly low sales numbers but there's been a bit of a rush on for all the NER electrics recently. I've never seen a layout based on the NER Shildon electrification, possibly because it only worked for 20 years but I'm sure it would make an interesting model. All the locos apart from the rebuilt No11 (26510) were kept in store for the MSW electrification scheme and renumbered successively into the later LNER series and BR but were all scrapped in 1951 without seeing any further use.

WP_20180105_12_40_13_Pro.jpg

The huge pantographs are a bit fiddly to build but work very well in the model with their wide heads.

WP_20180105_12_40_41_Pro.jpg

These kits were designed to use Black Beetle bogies but fortunately the inner bogie frames are quite easy to motorise, in this case two Mitsumi motors and some plastic 20:1 gears.

 

 

I knew there was a description of the NER locos in MRC, and indeed, April 1987 is the issue for one built in 3mm/14.2mm gauge.  Nothing on if it ended up on a layout, but a bit of older modeling of the NER locos.

 

James

[Michael Edge]

Ok! But another poster talked about the motors having a 1mm shaft which is a bit small for 4mm worms. Do you sleeve the motor shaft and how do you maintain concentricity?

 

Regard

 

The motor shaft is 1mm and very short but I haven't used one without the gearbox which has a 3mm final drive shaft.

[Michael Edge]

I knew there was a description of the NER locos in MRC, and indeed, April 1987 is the issue for one built in 3mm/14.2mm gauge.  Nothing on if it ended up on a layout, but a bit of older modeling of the NER locos.

 

James

 

 

The output of the gearbox is 3mm but the shaft of the motor to which it is attached is 1mm.You can remove the gearbox but the motor shaft that sticks out has a gear on and if you were to remove that gear it would only leave about 2mm of shaft, which iis too short to take a worm. What I meant was to find a source of the motors but suitable to take a worm, of 1.5mm I.D. by sleeving the shaft so they can be used with HL gearboxes.

 

 

i have one of these motors and when viewed from the side opposite that shown it has the same slots and same plastic end as in as those with the gearbox. The shaft is also 1mm, which makes me think they may be made by the same manufacturer. At £7.50 it's not a bad price when compared with the £20+ that people want for the remaning Mashimas but if we could find the Chinese source they could be got a lot cheaper than that. I have searched ebay but have never turned up anything of the same size direct from China.

 

Sorry, Mike, for hjacking your thread but I suppose it helps people to power your kits. 

Hijack away, that's what this forum is all about. £7.50 sounds a bit steep compared with the usual Ebay prices but as you say still isn't very much. There's a High Level gearbox on its way to me with a small "square" motor, this has a 1mm shaft but it shouldn't be too much trouble to sleeve it. I've got a larger version of this to try on an HL gearbox as well.

[Michael Edge]

What would the chances be of orbell in 1:64. S scale ?

Not too difficult, etch is easy to re-scale, the axlebox/spring is the only major bit of pattern making. I can do a quote for a one-off if you like. 

[polybear]

 

The final drive gears are 1:1 plastic bevel gears from China, I think they were £1.98 for 20, post free. They seem to be completely silent unlike the Portescap bevels - but these are on the low speed end of the drive. They come with a 2mm bore and because of their shape are a little difficult to hold for machining/boring. I bored them to a push fit on the 3mm output shaft and the 1/8th axle.

 

 

WP_20180113_13_13_20_Pro.jpg

 

Any suggestions for holding the gears for machining the bore please?

Many thanks

Brian

Edited January 26, 2018 by polybear

[Michael Edge]

I mounted the gears on a mandrel in the lathe and machined the boss parallel so that it could be mounted in the chuck and bored.

[brack]

The motor/gear combination will work fine. In 2013 I produced a 3D printed Y7 body/chassis kit in 00 scale which used this as a drive system:

 

The large round boss was removed from the gear with a hacksaw as I didnt have any lathe or pillar drill at the time. The bevel Gears I bought were 3mm bore, so I reamed the axle gear out by hand to 1/8". After chopping it up with a hacksaw and opening the hole out with cutting broaches, it ran perfectly well.

 

 

The finished model was certainly capable of pulling stuff - I put 800g of lead on top of a Bachmann 16t mineral and the loco could move it without trouble (and surprisingly the wagon survived unscathed too!).

 

One thing I would say is that the gearmotors are available in a variety of gear ratios and voltage ratings. Whilst I suspect that the claimed voltage rating may not make any difference, I did find one that said 12V on the listing. I did use a 298:1 ratio just for fun, and I'd say that was probably somewhat too high! Turning the controller up didn't make much difference to the speed past a certain point, just made it slightly noisier. I reckon a ratio somewhere between 50:1 or 150:1 ought to be sufficiently slow for any normal persons slow running preference. The loco was pretty quiet at low speeds, and even at full pelt the noise was a) not very loud at all and b) principally down to running a gearmotor with a high reduction - I couldn't discern much difference in noise between running the motor on the bench and running motor+bevel gears in the chassis.

 

Please don't take this as me trying to advertise my design on someone else's thread (I'm hardly a commerical operator, and there's only been 4 of these sold in 5 years), or boasting about trying these gears/motors a while back - my point is that I, with rudimentary tools and skills made it work well and it was a robust, practical and economical means of driving a model - easier than assembling a gearbox. Whilst these motors are very good (and I have a few more in stock that I'll use in future) there are smoother, better gearmotors available from china for under £10 (I have some lovely buhler and escap ones) which could be used with the same gears (but which are somewhat longer - they wouldn't have fit in the Y7 without encroaching into the cab).

 

If you wanted a UK supplier for the 3mm bore gears I think I might have got some from motionco at some point: http://www.motionco.co.uk/pair-bevel-gears-mod16-bore-p-146.html

 

I also have several sets of tiny 1.5mm bore bevel gears which came from gizmoszone: http://www.gizmoszone.com/shopping/agora.cgi?product=Other_gear&user4=Miter_gear;ppinc=1a

 

those are for some O9 stuff where the white plastic 8.7mm diameter bevels won't fit between the frames.

 

Hope you don't think I'm stepping on your toes Mr Edge

[Michael Edge]

Certainly not, thanks for the information.

[Andrew Young]

Just catching up with your thread Michael, that Harland & Wolff loco is fantastically ugly! Very quirky. The 14” Hunslet is indeed a most attractive loco, do you have any plans to make it available in 7mm scale?

 

And thanks to all the suggestions about motors and bevel gears, I’ve got some of those style motors direct from China on eBay and will now have to put an order in for some bevel gears.

 

Cheers,

Andrew

[PenrithBeacon]

...

 

Please don't take this as me trying to advertise my design on someone else's thread (I'm hardly a commerical operator, and there's only been 4 of these sold in 5 years), ...

You now have a fifth sale!

 

https://www.shapeways.com/product/42TX6W5N5/y7-class-040t-in-00-scale-ner-lner-br-ncb?optionId=42506250&li=marketplace

 

Regards

Edited February 26, 2018 by PenrithBeacon

[Michael Edge]

Just catching up with your thread Michael, that Harland & Wolff loco is fantastically ugly! Very quirky. The 14” Hunslet is indeed a most attractive loco, do you have any plans to make it available in 7mm scale?

And thanks to all the suggestions about motors and bevel gears, I’ve got some of those style motors direct from China on eBay and will now have to put an order in for some bevel gears.

Cheers,

Andrew

14" in 7mm - not yet, I still have a test etch for the 16" to build yet.

[Andrew Young]

Thank you. I’m not in any hurry, but hopefully it’s a one day rather than never.

 

Cheers,

Andrew

[Michael Edge]

We will have two new items at the Nottingham show next weekend. First the 7mm version of the Ruston 165 0-6-0, this will build as a DE (BR PWM 650) or a DM with drive on the trailing or centre crankpin. The etch will include parts for the narrow gauge version (1000mm and 3'6") in which the frame plates are outside the wheels. An additional parts pack will be available for this which will include extended axles, moulded axleboxes and Slater's wheels bored out to fit on plain 1/8th axles.

The kit will be priced at £100 + £4 postage, no price yet for the narrow gauge pack.

This is the DM version as supplied to NCB North Eastern area, drive on trailing crankpin.

The second item is the long promised 4mm Fowler 3P, on the usual basis of etched parts only, not including boiler barrel and firebox.

I haven't quite finished this but have got enough done to correct the etch.

This will be 40018, a Trafford Park loco in the 1950s, one of the ones fitted with new cylinders and outside steampipes (not included on the etch). Fittings are all home machined, the ejector is a Gibson casting. 

This shows the original fluted coupling rods with an adjustable leading bush, the later plain rods are also included. The frames are sprayed black after wheels, brakes, sanding and cylinders are finished but before any motion is fitted. After cleaning the paint off the wheel treads the rest of it can be assembled. The slidebars are laminated and peg through the cylinder ends, only attached by soldering to the motion bracket. Crossheads are built up from an etched face and a U shaped folded piece at the back, these have to be assembled with the con rods on the slidebars before fitting to the loco, the valve gear can be fitted later.

Viewed from underneath, there is reasonable clearance behind the crosshead but it will be tighter for EM gauge. Good news is that the leading crankpin and con rod little end never coincide. PCB across convenient frame spacers carry the p/b wire pickups, High Level gearboxes now all have this grubscrew fitted final drive gear.

From the top this a Mabuchi motor (£1.19 on Ebay) fitted to a High Level Loadhauler gearbox after slotting out the fixing holes a bit. This motor is very powerful but a bit quick, the 80:1 reduction gives it a reasonable top speed.

The inner part of the cab floor is soldered to the frames, leaving a large hole for access to the inside of the cab - important for this since a removable roof would be rather difficult.

The body viewed from underneath (not quite so clean under here, that's where nearly all the soldering is done). The etch is marked for the vast number of snap head rivets which the last few of these had, also seen is the lead sheet soldered into the firebox for fitting the washout plugs.

 

The trade stand will be at Nottingham as usual but we will also have Herculaneum Dock there so a lot of the display stock (including the Fell) will be running on the layout and Judith will be flying solo most of the time.

 

 

[Michael Edge]

I forgot to add that the Fowler 3P etch will be £40.

[Michael Edge]

Next on the bench is the 7mm version of the Fowler 3P etch, not for production yet, this one os for a customer.

[auld_boot]

Hi Michael, As discussed on the phone earlier, cheque will be in the post tomorrow for a kit of 7mm version of the Ruston 165 0-6-0.

[JeffP]

Do we have a price for that loco yet? It's not on the website afaics?

[auld_boot]

Do we have a price for that loco yet? It's not on the website afaics?

Scroll up JeffP, £100 plus £4 postage.