RMweb Premium Popular Post Michael Edge Posted January 6, 2018 Author RMweb Premium Popular Post Share Posted January 6, 2018 Latest developments include this contender for the ugliest loco ever contest. This was built by Harland & Wolff for the LMS, originally numbered 7057 it was transferred to NCC in Northern Ireland. The box along the top of the casing was added in Ireland where it worked until the 1970s, latterly with UTA. Re-gauging was done without altering the frames, presumably longer axles and big washers were fitted. The other side, the top box will be a separate moulding so either the LMS or Irish version can be built, waiting for step treads and balance weights as these were missed off the test etch. Not much better looking from the back either. Also on the bench is this North Eastern EF1 for a customer, to be painted as BR 26509. We've had this kit in the range for a long time now with fairly low sales numbers but there's been a bit of a rush on for all the NER electrics recently. I've never seen a layout based on the NER Shildon electrification, possibly because it only worked for 20 years but I'm sure it would make an interesting model. All the locos apart from the rebuilt No11 (26510) were kept in store for the MSW electrification scheme and renumbered successively into the later LNER series and BR but were all scrapped in 1951 without seeing any further use. The huge pantographs are a bit fiddly to build but work very well in the model with their wide heads. These kits were designed to use Black Beetle bogies but fortunately the inner bogie frames are quite easy to motorise, in this case two Mitsumi motors and some plastic 20:1 gears. 19 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Blandford1969 Posted January 6, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 6, 2018 Dare I ask how the Fowler 2-6-2 is coming on? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nelson Jackson Posted January 7, 2018 Share Posted January 7, 2018 Brilliant news with regards to the Harland & Wolff shunter, I'm guessing provisions have been made to also allow 21mm models? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steamport Southport Posted January 7, 2018 Share Posted January 7, 2018 Looking at the Harland and Wolff diesels it seems to me that they still wanted to design them like steam locomotives with the side tanks, cab and bunker. Interesting prototypes though. I didn't even know they existed until recently. http://www.theyard.info/engineering/trains/trains.asp Jason Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted January 7, 2018 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 7, 2018 Dare I ask how the Fowler 2-6-2 is coming on? I'm aiming to get it in our next etch order, possibly for Nottingham exhibition this year. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted January 7, 2018 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 7, 2018 Brilliant news with regards to the Harland & Wolff shunter, I'm guessing provisions have been made to also allow 21mm models? At the moment it has the usual EM/00 frame spacers but as I said above the frames and wheels were not altered for 5'3" gauge so they must have used the equivalent of thick washers outside the bearings. The LMS Jinties which went to Ireland were re-gauged by turning the wheel centres inside out and fitting new tyres. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted January 7, 2018 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 7, 2018 Looking at the Harland and Wolff diesels it seems to me that they still wanted to design them like steam locomotives with the side tanks, cab and bunker. Interesting prototypes though. I didn't even know they existed until recently. http://www.theyard.info/engineering/trains/trains.asp Jason H&W only built s handful of locomotives, the others were just as ugly. Designing diesels like steam locos was quite common then, Hudswell Clarke were still doing it in the 1950s, look at the BR D2500 series, the exhaust on these was actually a steam loco chimney casting. Although I have no information about the interior of 7057's cab there doesn't seem to be anything significant inside what looks like a bunker on the back - but the same applies to the early North British diesels (e.g. BR D2700), there's nothing much in there. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Barry O Posted January 7, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 7, 2018 The EF1 is beautiful, the H&W shunter just needs to be seen to be believed. They do say though that beauty is in the eye of the beholder. Baz 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted January 12, 2018 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 12, 2018 I've taken the box off the top of the HW 0-6-0 (it will be separate moulding) and added the bits underneath it, so this is what it originally looked like as delivered to the LMS. The exhaust cowl is a big lump with quite a small hole in it, I suspect it was an iron casting used to help balance the loco - like the BR 03. All the work is now done for this, just a matter of drawing up the production etch and writing some instructions. Moving on to a test etch I started at York last year This is a Hudswell Clarke 0-6-0DH, one of the last designs produced before the Hunslet buy out. Two batches were supplied to Mersey Docks (their last locos), one of which survives on the East Somerset. I started on this at the York demo but abandoned it after discovering a fundamental etch error in the very complicated steps. A few new etch parts got round this, everything else is going well. This isn't a high priority but it's the first Hudswell we've done and will leave only one type (the earlier Hudswells) of MDHB locos to build. 14 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PenrithBeacon Posted January 12, 2018 Share Posted January 12, 2018 Is the Hudswell similar to those the MSC had? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted January 12, 2018 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 12, 2018 No, they were a slightly earlier type, similar locos to these (but not exactly the same) were supplied to other users and some still work at Ford's Dagenham plant Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Ruston Posted January 13, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 13, 2018 Can we see the underside of the Hudswell, please? I'm interested to know the final drive arrangement with that motor/gearbox. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted January 13, 2018 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 13, 2018 no problem Dave The final drive gears are 1:1 plastic bevel gears from China, I think they were £1.98 for 20, post free. They seem to be completely silent unlike the Portescap bevels - but these are on the low speed end of the drive. They come with a 2mm bore and because of their shape are a little difficult to hold for machining/boring. I bored them to a push fit on the 3mm output shaft and the 1/8th axle. View from the top. I don't know how long these motors are going to be available but they are amazingly powerful, I loaded this frame up to about 400g and it was still running smoothly and quietly while still easily spinning the wheels. These bevel gears only just fit in 00 gauge frames, leaving no room for a motor mounting frame so the gearbox is simply soldered to the frame plates. I left the bevel gear a few mm away from the gearbox, this enables the wheels to be turned by hand (essential for accurate quartering of Gibson wheels) by sliding the gear back out of mesh, the spur drive box can't be driven backwards. The Hunslet 14" 0-6-0ST seen on Herculaneum Dock recently has one of these motors, driving through 1:1 skew gears but I don't remember where these came from. 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Barry O Posted January 13, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 13, 2018 so without the added "lump" the Harland and Woolf designed shunter is still pretty hideous.... Baz Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted January 14, 2018 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 14, 2018 I still can't figure out what was underneath that "hump", obviously something that needed a bit more ventilation but what? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Enterprisingwestern Posted January 14, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 14, 2018 I still can't figure out what was underneath that "hump", obviously something that needed a bit more ventilation but what? Extra cooling pipes and/or radiator/heat exchangers. Cab heating maybe? Mike. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium polybear Posted January 14, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 14, 2018 no problem Dave WP_20180113_13_13_20_Pro.jpg The final drive gears are 1:1 plastic bevel gears from China, I think they were £1.98 for 20, post free. They seem to be completely silent unlike the Portescap bevels - but these are on the low speed end of the drive. They come with a 2mm bore and because of their shape are a little difficult to hold for machining/boring. I bored them to a push fit on the 3mm output shaft and the 1/8th axle. WP_20180113_13_13_38_Pro.jpg View from the top. I don't know how long these motors are going to be available but they are amazingly powerful, I loaded this frame up to about 400g and it was still running smoothly and quietly while still easily spinning the wheels. These bevel gears only just fit in 00 gauge frames, leaving no room for a motor mounting frame so the gearbox is simply soldered to the frame plates. I left the bevel gear a few mm away from the gearbox, this enables the wheels to be turned by hand (essential for accurate quartering of Gibson wheels) by sliding the gear back out of mesh, the spur drive box can't be driven backwards. The Hunslet 14" 0-6-0ST seen on Herculaneum Dock recently has one of these motors, driving through 1:1 skew gears but I don't remember where these came from. I've not seen these motors before - can you tell me the source please? Thanks Brian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bazjones1711 Posted January 14, 2018 Share Posted January 14, 2018 (edited) Re. Small motors https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-6V-DC-Small-Micro-Geared-Box-Electric-Motor-High-Quality-M-C/302540103242?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131017132637%26meid%3Dc5aaf472a16b42129351d78c96554ee5%26pid%3D100033%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D8%26sd%3D112754923985&_trksid=p2045573.c100033.m2042 There are plenty more on eBay, i bought mine in UK , cost £6.00 each Edited January 14, 2018 by bazjones1711 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PenrithBeacon Posted January 14, 2018 Share Posted January 14, 2018 They are advertised as 3-6V not 12V. Are they suitable, seem a bit small to me Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Ruston Posted January 14, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 14, 2018 They are advertised as 3-6V not 12V. Are they suitable, seem a bit small to me They're 10x15mm with a 1mm shaft. I just wish I would find a source with just the motor and a shaft long enough to take a worm, so they could replace the Mashima 10x15 and couple to High Level gearboxes by sleeving the shaft to 1.5mm. They are 3-6v but who drives the small industrial locos that you'd fit these to on more than 6v of the 0-12v DC anyway? Perhaps put a resistor in to limit the voltage throughout the range? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted January 15, 2018 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 15, 2018 They are advertised as 3-6V not 12V. Are they suitable, seem a bit small to me They are small but very powerful, don't take too much notice of the quoted voltage. My Hunslet 14" 0-6-0ST has been running with one for nearly a year now, including the last Liverpool exhibition, it doesn't get noticeably hot and certainly hasn't failed. I've been buying all sorts of motors recently, usually just connect them to the DC supply and see what happens, all but one have been fine. This one barely registers on the ammeter. Average price on Ebay is now about £2.30 but there are lots of adverts for them, I got them for 99p but they might be being sold on now. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted January 15, 2018 Share Posted January 15, 2018 I still can't figure out what was underneath that "hump", obviously something that needed a bit more ventilation but what? The wolf? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PenrithBeacon Posted January 15, 2018 Share Posted January 15, 2018 They are small but very powerful, don't take too much notice of the quoted voltage. My Hunslet 14" 0-6-0ST has been running with one for nearly a year now, including the last Liverpool exhibition, it doesn't get noticeably hot and certainly hasn't failed. I've been buying all sorts of motors recently, usually just connect them to the DC supply and see what happens, all but one have been fine. This one barely registers on the ammeter. Average price on Ebay is now about £2.30 but there are lots of adverts for them, I got them for 99p but they might be being sold on now. Ok! But another poster talked about the motors having a 1mm shaft which is a bit small for 4mm worms. Do you sleeve the motor shaft and how do you maintain concentricity? Regard Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium John Isherwood Posted January 15, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 15, 2018 Ok! But another poster talked about the motors having a 1mm shaft which is a bit small for 4mm worms. Do you sleeve the motor shaft and how do you maintain concentricity? Regard I find that brass tube from a reliable supplier - eg. Eileen's Emporium - is fine for sleeving worms. In this instance, 1.0mm. ID, 1.5mm. OD. Regards, John Isherwood. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PenrithBeacon Posted January 15, 2018 Share Posted January 15, 2018 I find that brass tube from a reliable supplier - eg. Eileen's Emporium - is fine for sleeving worms. In this instance, 1.0mm. ID, 1.5mm. OD. Regards, John Isherwood. Thanks, tried that in a slightly different application, ie sleeving an axle in an RTR conversion. Didn't work, not at all. Which is why I'm concerned here. Regards Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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