alcazar Posted November 29, 2009 Share Posted November 29, 2009 Hi, I'd like to start off with a little shunting plank in 7mm scale, "O"fs. I don't like the look, or performance, of PECO points, so would like to build at least one for myself. Firstly, can anyone tell me how LONG a straight B6 turnout is, and whats' the next size? B7? B8? How long are they? Secondly, I have a set of three roller gauges in "O"fs bought about two years ago. What else do I NEED to complete a turnout from, say, a C&L kit? When I built in P4 I had various gauges, roller, check rail, crossing vee etc. Do I NEED these in "O" and if so, where from? Thanks in advance for any responses, also any hints and tips, and/or links to any "how to" threads. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miss Prism Posted November 29, 2009 Share Posted November 29, 2009 Firstly, can anyone tell me how LONG a straight B6 turnout is, and whats' the next size? B7? B8? How long are they Lots of prototype data can be found here. When I built in P4 I had various gauges, roller, check rail, crossing vee etc. Do I NEED these in "O" and if so, where from? You will need the same constructional gauges in 7mm you needed in 4mm. (How could it be otherwise?) I expect the 7mm scalers will be along soon to advise of sources, but I would think C&L would be a good starting source. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted November 29, 2009 Share Posted November 29, 2009 A B6 is just under 21" long (530mm). I built one with just 2 C&L roller gauges, depending on what set of standards you are going to build to, I find a wing-rail gauge usefull also if to fine standards a check rail gauge and a 3 point gauge Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted November 29, 2009 Share Posted November 29, 2009 What John has said above is about all you should need to get started you say you have 3 roller gauge's they should incorperate a check rail gauge, do you intend to make your own vee's and turnout blades ? You can make your own although the blades do take a while to file and you would really need a jig for the various vee sizes, personally I would buy the vee and blades in one of the C&L kits especially if it is your first just to get a feel for the construction of the turnouts. Are you using timber or plastic sleepers ? you will find they will both sucessfully stick to the chairs with Butanone. I cannot comment on the exactoscale range, but I do know they were both designed and produced originally by the same talented tool maker by the name of Len Newman. I find building turnouts to be just as much fun as building loco's, especially knowing it's your own work and they do look so much better and it won't be long before you will be making some really complex pointwork once the bug bites so to speak. Have a look at some of Dikitriki's posts there are loads of advice there including a 3 way point that I have never seen before. All the best, Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
alcazar Posted November 29, 2009 Author Share Posted November 29, 2009 What about with flat bottom track? Are the parts available from Peco, in kit form, etc? Has anyone any experience of f/b points construction? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted November 29, 2009 Share Posted November 29, 2009 I do not think Peco do any track work in kit form, have you had a look at http://www.finescale.org.uk/show_page.php?pid=107 I see they do f/bottom rail and I can't see there being much difference in construction. Regards, Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pugsley Posted November 29, 2009 Share Posted November 29, 2009 What about with flat bottom track? Are the parts available from Peco, in kit form, etc? Has anyone any experience of f/b points construction? I've not got any experience in 7mm, but do in 4mm EM - have a look at my Bisley Junction blog on this site, and the thread on the old RMweb, which has got a bit more info on building FB points. I've used the 4mm scale Peco components successfully, although they're not the most accurate, they provide a reasonable impression of pandrol fixings. Templot includes settings for early FB pointwork for making templates (again what I've used for mine). Peco do components in 7mm scale, which I presume are larger versions of the 4mm parts: More details here (scroll about 4/5ths down the page): http://www.peco-uk.com/Products/pecoproducts.htm HTH Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
marsa69 Posted November 29, 2009 Share Posted November 29, 2009 Hi Jeff, I built a 3-way C+L turnout kit with minimal fuss and tools. You can find my thread on here for the build or wait for the next MIGO mag as I submitted it as an article. The C+L kits are really good and made easier by the fact that the crossing vees are ready made. The only downside for me, and this is really minor, is that C+L don't provide proper bridge chairs. These are made up by modifying normal running chairs. Not a problem but if you want authentic chairs then I here that Exactoscale make them, hope this helps, Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
IC126 Posted November 29, 2009 Share Posted November 29, 2009 Exactoscale do indeed do a nice bridge chair. As far as I can see from their website they only do bullhead rail though. Exactoscale 7mm track You can see a few bridge chairs in the attached photo. I use a fishing tackle box to store all my chairs, which helps a lot. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium martin_wynne Posted November 29, 2009 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 29, 2009 Hi Andrew, That's looking very good. But it's unfortunate that you have the wing rail joint one timber space out of position. At that crossing angle, the wing rail front section should span only 3 timbers between the vee and the rail joint. We have been here before -- more discussion about this at: http://www.rmweb.co....=705988#p705988 regards, Martin. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigwelsh Posted November 30, 2009 Share Posted November 30, 2009 I'm still amazed Exactoscale didn't acknowledge that one on their template for those who aren't building up their point kits.. Did you break a check chair btw putting in a sharp flare on the right of the picture? The chair seems to turn a corner? FB pointwork doesn't quite use the same templates and you certainly wouldn't get a correct FB mainline point as short as a B6 I don't think..(I await Martin or someone else correcting me ) Colin Craig does some FB templates you could possibly upscale if you don't have templot. What were you building in P4 not to have looked into the meaning of B6/B7 etc by the way? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium martin_wynne Posted November 30, 2009 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 30, 2009 FB pointwork doesn't quite use the same templates and you certainly wouldn't get a correct FB mainline point as short as a B6 I don't think..(I await Martin or someone else correcting me ) Hi Craig, You are equally unlikely to have a turnout as short as a B6 in a running line in bullhead. But it can look the part, if you are tight for space. The size difference between FB and BH depends on the period. I added some comments about this on Rod's blog at: http://www.rmweb.co....earch/#comments regards, Martin. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigwelsh Posted November 30, 2009 Share Posted November 30, 2009 Hi Craig, You are equally unlikely to have a turnout as short as a B6 in a running line in bullhead. But it can look the part, if you are tight for space. regards, Martin. I'd meant as opposed to tram lines really rather than the obvious, whoops; I had realised you would't get a B6 on a running line as you say. Your response to Rod is interesting though as I was clearly thinking of the later 113 FB stuff and hadn't realised they'd done like for like earlier. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
IC126 Posted November 30, 2009 Share Posted November 30, 2009 Hi Andrew, That's looking very good. But it's unfortunate that you have the wing rail joint one timber space out of position. At that crossing angle, the wing rail front section should span only 3 timbers between the vee and the rail joint. We have been here before -- more discussion about this at: http://www.rmweb.co....=705988#p705988 regards, Martin. Hi Martin - yes you are correct. I used the Exactoscale templates (a C8 in this case, curved to fit) not knowing that these were wrong. Very annoying. I guess I'd better buy a copy of Templot before my next trackbuilding session... I'm still amazed Exactoscale didn't acknowledge that one on their template for those who aren't building up their point kits.. Did you break a check chair btw putting in a sharp flare on the right of the picture? The chair seems to turn a corner? Hi Craig - the chairs at the end of the check rail are shaped to hold the flared ends of the check rail. You can see this on the drawing Martin's post links to. I've over-bent this one, so it looks a bit funny. I made these special chairs from two standard S1 chairs cut up - some "turned out" better than others (Sorry for the awful pun). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigwelsh Posted December 3, 2009 Share Posted December 3, 2009 Hi Craig - the chairs at the end of the check rail are shaped to hold the flared ends of the check rail. You can see this on the drawing Martin's post links to. I've over-bent this one, so it looks a bit funny. I made these special chairs from two standard S1 chairs cut up - some "turned out" better than others (Sorry for the awful pun). Yes I know you need the CCL and CCR chairs on the end of the check rails but these chairs are straight across and not bent. I hadn't realised that there were no complete check chairs from Exacoscale as there are in 4mm. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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