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James Makin's Workbench - 1990s dirty diesels & grotty wagons


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Some seriously good work there James! That reminds me to get to work on my two Cavalex RBA barrier tanks! Will certainly be using a similar method to yourself!

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6 hours ago, 46444 said:

 

For some unknown reason that did cross my mind too!

Day trip to Toton anyone ?

” I was only here to do a brass rubbing , your honour “

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On 28/05/2024 at 23:23, James Makin said:

All those big dirty freight locos need something to pull!

 

53752494557_1cab3448c1_k.jpgCavalex TEA Project by James Makin by James Makin - Account 3, on Flickr

 

I've been having some fun weathering up a few Cavalex TEA petroleum wagons, having hoovered up a batch when first released, and the chance to get a few more from @Southwich lately, it seemed only right to get some through the weathering workbench!

 

53753602473_0b1c9f1141_k.jpgCavalex TEA Project by James Makin by James Makin - Account 3, on Flickr

 

Available in plain grey and the gorgeous 'Total'-branded versions, the wagons are pleasingly weighty and stable compared to Bachmann's take on one of the other TEA designs, and they certainly seem to come alive with a bit of attention.

 

53753737119_ed880644dd_k.jpgCavalex TEA Project by James Makin by James Makin - Account 3, on Flickr

 

The starting point can be seen below, and looking back, how beautiful and bright they look! 

 

53753737179_ff7c8fc488_k.jpgCavalex TEA Project by James Makin by James Makin - Account 3, on Flickr

 

These have been given an all-over coat of Railmatch matt varnish, before being left for at least a month to allow the varnish to harden before weathering would begin. 

 

53752494527_e984910dd5_k.jpgCavalex TEA Project by James Makin by James Makin - Account 3, on Flickr

 

Cavalex have modelled the weld lines on the tankers, and one great starting point is to help these to show through better, by masking off and painting each line, using Tamiya tape and a smidgen of brown paint. 

 

53753602373_e6495874a7_k.jpgCavalex TEA Project by James Makin by James Makin - Account 3, on Flickr

 

Next, layers of brown and grey paint were applied to the tanks, starting here with the lightest shade, Humbrol No.62 Matt Leather or No.186 Medium Brown shades, following prototype pics of the wagons in the late 1990s for guidance on the colours to use. 

 

This was then wiped away, working vertically downward with some kitchen roll -

 

53753602248_a27375f6c5_k.jpgCavalex TEA Project by James Makin by James Makin - Account 3, on Flickr

 

Having wiped off most of the first layer of brown, the overall colour of the wagon is tinted brown, losing that bright grey colour straight away. Then, a cotton bud was dipped in enamel thinners, wiping it down the barrel of the tank to remove more dirt and help recreate the effect where dirt gathers on the 'flatter' areas of the barrel, while the near-vertical parts are kept cleaner in the rain. 

 

53753827435_e02cc7a362_k.jpgCavalex TEA Project by James Makin by James Makin - Account 3, on Flickr

 

By removing more of the dirt, the parts left behind can also be fashioned into dirt streaks too, following prototype pics at all times to see how the real things would weather. It's also important to consider the timeline being modelled, as the years went by, these TEAs became gradually dirtier until being almost entirely dirt-covered as the 2000s progressed. 

 

53753827355_7a0c3c80d1_k.jpgCavalex TEA Project by James Makin by James Makin - Account 3, on Flickr

 

With the first layer of brown applied and wiped away, a few more day passed before adding further coats of different colours, to build up a layered effect, including darker brown, applied to more targeted areas around the roof catwalk and lower solebar areas.

 

53753602168_9190015438_k.jpgCavalex TEA Project by James Makin by James Makin - Account 3, on Flickr

 

It's fun to experiment with different levels of 'wash' - paint mixed with enamel thinners, varying from near-neat paint, through to just a tinted brown thinners, and seeing how it changes the colours of the tanker - the great thing about the experimentation being that more thinners could just be added if needed to fettle with the effects before drying on the model. 

 

Next, after the main traffic grime was added, some of the darker markings could be added to replicate where the actual oils have spilled and left marks on the side of the tank barrel. 

 

53752494302_6b190004f3_k.jpgCavalex TEA Project by James Makin by James Makin - Account 3, on Flickr

 

Again using thinned paint, this was applied to the model in key areas and selectively wiped away in certain places - gradually revealing the desired spills and streaks as required. 

 

53753602173_885de3c2c7_k.jpgCavalex TEA Project by James Makin by James Makin - Account 3, on Flickr

 

Eventually, you're left with the spills in place, and these can be topped up with manual dashes of paint added from brushes afterwards to match up with the prototype photos.

 

With the bulk of the weathering completed, the attention could then turn to the smaller areas -

 

53752494222_0e3e89eac7_k.jpgCavalex TEA Project by James Makin by James Makin - Account 3, on Flickr

 

Using a fine 5/0 brush, hundreds of little marks were added across each wagon in a range of dark browns and greys, just fine dashes of paint added in a vertical fashion near the top of the barrel - just something noticed on these, and possibly a blend of 'product' being spilt and streaking on the wagon, and other weathering marks on the barrel. It's a bit painstaking, taking a good couple of evenings to do, but worth a shot!

 

53753827260_afc5be6b4c_k.jpgCavalex TEA Project by James Makin by James Makin - Account 3, on Flickr

 

Attention then turned to the underframe, being painted in a mottled mix of Phoenix 'Track Dirt', 'Sleeper Grime' and various other blacks and greys - essentially the leftovers in tins from previous airbrushing jobs, as I couldn't just chuck away the dregs of paint from these projects!

 

Up on the catwalk, this then received a bit of attention too,

 

53753410056_ace8d624be_k.jpgCavalex TEA Project by James Makin by James Makin - Account 3, on Flickr

 

Several browns and greys were already applied and wiped off, then topped off with Humbrol Metalcote Gunmetal, drybrushed on and later polished up with cotton buds to highlight wear on the catwalk.

 

53753410011_f69eea387c_k.jpgCavalex TEA Project by James Makin by James Makin - Account 3, on Flickr

 

The underframe solebar was given a paint-on/wipe-off treatment in the same track dirt/frame dirt shades, using a cotton bud to wipe down and let the red solebar paint shine through the grime.

 

53752494072_9053912643_k.jpgCavalex TEA Project by James Makin by James Makin - Account 3, on Flickr

 

The edges of the bogies were picked out also in gunmetal paint, and rubbed with cotton buds, to bring out the hard edges and to help add some 'weight' to the visual appearance too.

 

53753602008_90f0de310f_k.jpgCavalex TEA Project by James Makin by James Makin - Account 3, on Flickr

 

Those lovely Total logos were starting to look quite worn by the late 90s, so before the weathering stage, a fine emery board was taken to the logo just to file back a few areas to remove hard edges and break up the beautiful colours! It felt like a crime to start with, but think it worked out in the end 😂

 

53753736759_d51d010729_k.jpgCavalex TEA Project by James Makin by James Makin - Account 3, on Flickr

 

One of my favourite things is the Trainload Petroleum logos on the wagons, faded down and muted with all the weathering layers on top. 

 

53753601823_2173e71c4c_k.jpgCavalex TEA Project by James Makin by James Makin - Account 3, on Flickr

 

The ends of tank wagons can be challenging to weather as the bulging circle needs to be weathered evenly to avoid any streaking going at 'wrong' angles, and there's lots of nooks & crannies on these TEAs that can catch a cotton bud, not to mention the delicate catwalk that would be a nightmare to break off if not careful!

 

53752493977_c1110b6467_k.jpgCavalex TEA Project by James Makin by James Makin - Account 3, on Flickr

 

The overall effect looks quite complex, but the reality is just different layers of paint built one on top of another, adding more and more shades to give a deeper weathering finish - the reality is just a simple paint on & wipe off application with a few different colours!

 

53753827075_57eb12e505_k.jpgCavalex TEA Project by James Makin by James Makin - Account 3, on Flickr

 

Alongside the weathered catwalk, those fiddly little 'dashes' on the shoulder of the barrel can be seen, along with the horizontal weld lines high up on the tank.

 

53753601453_be02808c2e_k.jpgCavalex TEA Project by James Makin by James Makin - Account 3, on Flickr

 

Side on, the lovely detail that Cavalex have put on the underframe, can be seen to good effect! Despite looking quite fragile, the detailing is impressively robust and stood up to a good amount of handling too. 

 

53753409591_e6a22c8651_k.jpgCavalex TEA Project by James Makin by James Makin - Account 3, on Flickr

 

Wheels and axles were all painted and weathered, again a mix of browns and greys to blend in with the overall underframe weathering. 

 

53753601468_838490489b_k.jpgCavalex TEA Project by James Makin by James Makin - Account 3, on Flickr

 

It was great fun modelling these - quite time consuming compared to smaller wagons, it's easy to forget how much surface area there is to treat, but it's a worthwhile project to do! 

 

53753601458_b53a8b3b56_k.jpgCavalex TEA Project by James Makin by James Makin - Account 3, on Flickr

 

These are now ready to sit behind some heavyweight Trainload Type 5s, and I can't wait to get them running!

 

Cheers,

James

 

 

 

 

 

Epic!

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On 28/05/2024 at 22:23, James Makin said:

All those big dirty freight locos need something to pull!


6V53 from Lindsey to Langley used to go through Didcot with a class 60 and thirty TEAs. Good luck!

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I have a pile of these awaiting similar treatment over the winter, having so far only managed to convert the chassis springs / cut the holes in the side of those that started as POA.   The colour mix for the rusty side is looking very affective so I will have to give it a go on mine.  

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Thanks ever so much guys!

 

On 10/07/2024 at 06:35, The Fatadder said:

I have a pile of these awaiting similar treatment over the winter, having so far only managed to convert the chassis springs / cut the holes in the side of those that started as POA.   The colour mix for the rusty side is looking very affective so I will have to give it a go on mine.  

 

Cheers Rich, I've always found with doing these full-rust wagons it's a bit of a gamble as to what they'll turn out like, I tend to find myself layering on more and more brown shades until it starts to resemble something meaningful! Look forward to seeing your Limpets when the time comes!

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12 minutes ago, James Makin said:

Thanks ever so much guys!

 

 

Cheers Rich, I've always found with doing these full-rust wagons it's a bit of a gamble as to what they'll turn out like, I tend to find myself layering on more and more brown shades until it starts to resemble something meaningful! Look forward to seeing your Limpets when the time comes!

That was my main concern with them, I have a bunch of spare bodies still so have some spares to test on first.   Keep meaning to add an ARC wagon to the set given that’s the only doner body I don’t have (and I fancy one of those where the ARC branding is still showing through).   The next one will be a Mainline blue respray

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Very nice indeed James. I've enjoyed working on these conversions too. Mine were a slightly earlier timeframe and not quite so rusty but they make very interesting weathering subjects. I like the way they were converted then the yellow stripe, TOPS panels and Limpet names were just added over the top of the dirt! 

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On 12/07/2024 at 05:53, sb67 said:

Very nice indeed James. I've enjoyed working on these conversions too. Mine were a slightly earlier timeframe and not quite so rusty but they make very interesting weathering subjects. I like the way they were converted then the yellow stripe, TOPS panels and Limpet names were just added over the top of the dirt! 

 

Thanks Steve, I really liked yours, and they're such utilitarian wagons but with so many different options for branding, livery and weathering!

 

The lack of paint applied during a lot of the conversions certainly resulted in there being a lot to love about them - the impetus behind my first ever 'Limpet' conversion was from wanting to model one of the ex-Yeoman POAs, where I just loved that the big 'y' logo was brutally cut in half by the new slots in the side.

 

My model below of (from 2005) looks a bit crude nowadays but I'd love to do it justice and have another crack at a Yeoman one in due course!

 

28192898583_eb4156df52_o.jpgMKA wagon by James Makin by jamesmakin2002, on Flickr

 

Cheers,

James

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3 hours ago, James Makin said:

 

Thanks Steve, I really liked yours, and they're such utilitarian wagons but with so many different options for branding, livery and weathering!

 

The lack of paint applied during a lot of the conversions certainly resulted in there being a lot to love about them - the impetus behind my first ever 'Limpet' conversion was from wanting to model one of the ex-Yeoman POAs, where I just loved that the big 'y' logo was brutally cut in half by the new slots in the side.

 

My model below of (from 2005) looks a bit crude nowadays but I'd love to do it justice and have another crack at a Yeoman one in due course!

 

28192898583_eb4156df52_o.jpgMKA wagon by James Makin by jamesmakin2002, on Flickr

 

Cheers,

James

Funny enough james just made start on 13 of these wagons for the new layout build,im with you on using matt enamel paints as always get super results over the acrylic colours..

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On 16/07/2024 at 08:43, James Makin said:

 

Thanks Steve, I really liked yours, and they're such utilitarian wagons but with so many different options for branding, livery and weathering!

 

The lack of paint applied during a lot of the conversions certainly resulted in there being a lot to love about them - the impetus behind my first ever 'Limpet' conversion was from wanting to model one of the ex-Yeoman POAs, where I just loved that the big 'y' logo was brutally cut in half by the new slots in the side.

 

My model below of (from 2005) looks a bit crude nowadays but I'd love to do it justice and have another crack at a Yeoman one in due course!

 

28192898583_eb4156df52_o.jpgMKA wagon by James Makin by jamesmakin2002, on Flickr

 

Cheers,

James

 

Most of the photo's I've seen are of the Yeoman wagons, I'm keeping my eyes open at shows as they are addictive, I'd like to have a go at a few more! Was that one of the wagons you did at a DEMU showcase many moons ago? I remember that demo 🙂

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3 hours ago, sb67 said:

 

Most of the photo's I've seen are of the Yeoman wagons, I'm keeping my eyes open at shows as they are addictive, I'd like to have a go at a few more! Was that one of the wagons you did at a DEMU showcase many moons ago? I remember that demo 🙂

The most unusual soldering demo to be seen at a show

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4 hours ago, sb67 said:

 

Most of the photo's I've seen are of the Yeoman wagons, I'm keeping my eyes open at shows as they are addictive, I'd like to have a go at a few more! Was that one of the wagons you did at a DEMU showcase many moons ago? I remember that demo 🙂

 

1 hour ago, The Fatadder said:

The most unusual soldering demo to be seen at a show

 

Ahah, cheers guys yes, that was an unconventional demo looking back 🤣

 

That would've been DEMU Showcase June 2006, I'd actually done the Yeoman 'Limpet' as the first back in 2005 (madly Gareth ended up photographing it for Rail Express that Autumn, that really blew my mind!) - then as we know in 2006 I was allowed to stink out Burton-on-Trent with the smell of molten plastic (makes a change from their Marmite at least) - I was tackling my second and successive Limpets - including the ARC one -

 

28808128145_dfa3d7a4e1_o.jpgMKA wagon by James Makin by jamesmakin2002, on Flickr

 

It was great fun to do but of course looking back it all looks a little crude now, so I certainly need to have a second stab at some Yeoman and ARC ones and see how we get on.

 

Talking of Demonstrating as it happens, a little plug - I've been asked to do a weathering demo at Scaleforum 2024 in High Wycombe this coming September 21st & 22nd (guessing they haven't seen how close together my wheels are - don't tell 'em Pike!) so be great to see any RMWebbers who are floating around then - might not be melting stuff this time though..! 😂

 

Cheers

James

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20 hours ago, James Makin said:

I’ve just got back from a most interesting weekend doing a weathering demonstration at the Scalefour Society’s ‘Scaleforum’ event today, feeling a mixture of happy and utterly knackered!

 

I had a motley collection of stock with me to display different techniques… 

IMG_7891.jpeg.0be5a131505b2ba5814c7ddbe194c9cf.jpeg
 

…and also to distract from the dodgy modelling going on! 
 

IMG_7892.jpeg.fe13d464222b3ac6cd2c17838133309c.jpeg

 

I brought a load of specially-prepared OCA ballast wagons along with me, and another Accurascale ‘Heavyweight’ 37/7 for treatment, I was staggered by how many people dropped by and said hello!

 

It was the first weathering demo since back in 2008 so I didn’t know if I could still do it, but ended up talking for England, having a lovely evening with Tim Horn & Jim Smith-Wright, and pinching loads of cute little jams and marmalades from my Alan Partridge breakfast, great fun! 
 

Now resting briefly, until all the excitement of our Worthing MRC exhibition next week (our biggest one yet!) - visit www.worthingmrc.co.uk for full details! 

 

Cheers,

James


Hi James, long time follower first time comment’er I think….have you ever renumbered a Hornby 67 ? I’m thinking about buying a doubler and renumbering but I’m not sure if it’s a pain or possible to do with the deep bodyside ribs?

 

I assume using class 66 numbers would be okay and that they are a tad oversize to allow the ribs?

 

Thanks in advance ! 

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1 hour ago, Goodnight Sweetheart said:


Hi James, long time follower first time comment’er I think….have you ever renumbered a Hornby 67 ? I’m thinking about buying a doubler and renumbering but I’m not sure if it’s a pain or possible to do with the deep bodyside ribs?

 

I assume using class 66 numbers would be okay and that they are a tad oversize to allow the ribs?

 

Thanks in advance ! 

Railtec sell transfers specifically for Class 67 numbers, I can’t recall if they look much different to a 66 in size.  I’ve found 67s easier to number than 66s which are a colossal pain in the backside! 

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15 hours ago, Goodnight Sweetheart said:


Hi James, long time follower first time comment’er I think….have you ever renumbered a Hornby 67 ? I’m thinking about buying a doubler and renumbering but I’m not sure if it’s a pain or possible to do with the deep bodyside ribs?

 

I assume using class 66 numbers would be okay and that they are a tad oversize to allow the ribs?

 

Thanks in advance ! 

 

Thanks! I have renumbered a trio of Hornby new-gen '67s' over the years, I just used the same size numbers as for the '66's at the time, and they seem to turn out generally ok - these were back in the days when Modelmaster EWS decals were in plentiful supply, but times have changed since. The decals were softened using Microsol decal softening solution that you can apply during the transfer application - sloshing on the wet decals. This helps to then get the decal to lay flat over the ribs to get a finish a bit like the below -

 

34616348926_70eac7ae3f_o.jpg67017 'Arrow' by James Makin by jamesmakin2002, on Flickr

 

I've done similar features on each of the projects below, 67017 created in 2017, and the pairing of 67002 and 67008 made in 2019, where the key ingredient is a gloss finish on the EWS gold stripe, the Microsol solution and then gently pressing the decals into place with kitchen towel after - occasionally a cocktail stick can come in handy when teasing out any air bubbles.

 

The easy part about using the (sadly practically obsolete) Modelmaster decals was the lack of carrier film around the numerals, and the ability to peel away the upper layer after it has dried on the bodyside - the Railtec or Fox ones don't do that (yet) but it did help to minimise air bubbles and get the painted-on finish over those pesky ribs!

 

Now that time has moved on, Railtec decals are the way to go, but beware on the softeners - I recommend Humbrol Decalfix if you do need to soften them (or just give a good press with kitchen towel!). For a recent experimental Class 66 project Steve @ Railtec kindly supplied a number of test pieces which I trialled different softening solutions on, and the Humbrol one worked the best, whilst Microsol wrinked the decals beyond a useable state, so it's worth matching your chosen softener to the brand of decal you've opted for, or at least experiment on some decals that you have spares for, just in case it goes pear shaped..! 

 

Hope this helps and very best of luck!

James

 

Edited by James Makin
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31 minutes ago, James Makin said:

 

Thanks! I have renumbered a trio of Hornby new-gen '67s' over the years, I just used the same size numbers as for the '66's at the time, and they seem to turn out generally ok - these were back in the days when Modelmaster EWS decals were in plentiful supply, but times have changed since. The decals were softened using Microsol decal softening solution that you can apply during the transfer application - sloshing on the wet decals. This helps to then get the decal to lay flat over the ribs to get a finish a bit like the below -

 

34616348926_70eac7ae3f_o.jpg67017 'Arrow' by James Makin by jamesmakin2002, on Flickr

 

I've done similar features on each of the projects below, 67017 created in 2017, and the pairing of 67002 and 67008 made in 2019, where the key ingredient is a gloss finish on the EWS gold stripe, the Microsol solution and then gently pressing the decals into place with kitchen towel after - occasionally a cocktail stick can come in handy when teasing out any air bubbles.

 

The easy part about using the (sadly practically obsolete) Modelmaster decals was the lack of carrier film around the numerals, and the ability to peel away the upper layer after it has dried on the bodyside - the Railtec or Fox ones don't do that (yet) but it did help to minimise air bubbles and get the painted-on finish over those pesky ribs!

 

Now that time has moved on, Railtec decals are the way to go, but beware on the softeners - I recommend Humbrol Decalfix if you do need to soften them (or just give a good press with kitchen towel!). For a recent experimental Class 66 project Steve @ Railtec kindly supplied a number of test pieces which I trialled different softening solutions on, and the Humbrol one worked the best, whilst Microsol wrinked the decals beyond a useable state, so it's worth matching your chosen softener to the brand of decal you've opted for, or at least experiment on some decals that you have spares for, just in case it goes pear shaped..! 

 

Hope this helps and very best of luck!

James

 

 

Smashing thank you ! 

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38 minutes ago, James Makin said:

 For a recent experimental Class 66 project Steve @ Railtec kindly supplied a number of test pieces which I trialled different softening solutions on, and the Humbrol one worked the best, whilst Microsol wrinked the decals beyond a useable state

That is really useful to know, when I did my last 66 it took me two packs of numbers to get the loco done properly after damaging transfers after ignoring the instruction not to use Microsol.  Before I number up 66002 I will invest in a jar of the Humbrol version.

 

 

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2 hours ago, James Makin said:

Now that time has moved on, Railtec decals are the way to go, but beware on the softeners - I recommend Humbrol Decalfix if you do need to soften them (or just give a good press with kitchen towel!). For a recent experimental Class 66 project Steve @ Railtec kindly supplied a number of test pieces which I trialled different softening solutions on, and the Humbrol one worked the best, whilst Microsol wrinked the decals beyond a useable state, so it's worth matching your chosen softener to the brand of decal you've opted for, or at least experiment on some decals that you have spares for, just in case it goes pear shaped..! 

Extremely useful to know this as well, as I have had a similar experience using Microsol on Railtec decals. I think I see a bottle of Decalfix making it's way to my modelling desk.....

Edited by Geep7
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20 hours ago, Geep7 said:

Extremely useful to know this as well, as I have had a similar experience using Microsol on Railtec decals. I think I see a bottle of Decalfix making it's way to my modelling desk.....

 

Very briefly delurking as there is a pile of R&D taking place for some more new concepts. So, just a quickie - it's been some while since I scrutinised the chemical compounds in MicroSet/Sol, and there have been mixed reports over the years. Whether this is attributed to the formula evolving, I just don't know. BUT, this lovely little short reel a couple of weeks ago by tomsmodellingcorner on Instagram shows at least MicroSet being used with a stunning result:

 

https://www.instagram.com/p/C_wggojI0Tc/

 

 

 

Edited by railtec-models
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