Jon Grant 4472 Posted July 20, 2011 Share Posted July 20, 2011 Following a discussion on photography and depth of field in another forum, I downloaded a 4-week trial of some computer software called Helicon focus  http://www.heliconsoft.com/heliconfocus.html  Simply put, the software takes a number of partially-focused photos and layers them on top of one another to produce a single perfectly focused shot.  Here are my first two attempts. The first photo used 16 layers and a tripod, the second used 8 layers and the camera was perched on the layout. I think a tripod is the way to go.  I had to reduce the size of the final images to get them under 2mb and I dare say I could have edited the photos further using Photoshop or Picasa3     I still have a way to go but am quite pleased with the results so far.  Jon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prof Klyzlr Posted July 21, 2011 Share Posted July 21, 2011 Following a discussion on photography and depth of field in another forum, I downloaded a 4-week trial of some computer software called Helicon focus  http://www.heliconso...liconfocus.html  Simply put, the software takes a number of partially-focused photos and layers them on top of one another to produce a single perfectly focused shot.  ...  I still have a way to go but am quite pleased with the results so far.  Jon  Dear Jon,  Yep, Helicon Focus has been a boon for many "Pro Model Photographers", allowing insane d-o-f results over some rediculous distances while maintaining Macro modes. IIRC Adobe has actually intergrated it into some of their latest PhotoShop versions???  That said, sometimes a bit of "out of focus" d-o-f tweaking can really help the composition of the shot, and "pull the focus" of the viewer to the key part of the scene. It can also help replicate "model looks like proto scene" shots where the original proto shot was taken with an inherrently limited-focus camera to begin with. (Much like shooting a recreated "period scene" with a current spec all-singing HD camera, then having to severely _degrade_ the image with processing to emulate the correct "period" 35mm film sepia of actual "archival" source footage...  the newer camera gear is simply "too good" to be considered a "direct match" for the proto image... )  The pics look good!  Happy Modelling, Aim to Improve, Prof Klyzlr Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northpoint Posted July 21, 2011 Share Posted July 21, 2011 Jon - I'm a little confused (it isn't difficult ) - are you saying you put the camera on the tripod and fired off 16 shots and then fed them into the software? Â Presumably, you didn't use auto focus as I guess that would mean they would all be the same. Â And what aperture did you use initially? WIth my digital SLR the best I can get is f32 which, in good lighting (eg outside in the sun) gives reasonable results. Â Â I'm wondering if it's worth investing in the software... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Grant 4472 Posted July 22, 2011 Author Share Posted July 22, 2011 Thanks for the favourable comments and helpful tips, guys. This is definitely the way to go.  I 've uploaded the third photo to Railimages, showing a CSX SD35 passing the West Yard at Sweethome Alabama. I used the Helicon Focus software again but also cropped and edited the photo in Picasa3, as well  The full sized photo is on the SWA facebook page https://www.facebook.com/pages/Sweethome-Alabama/201342969884638     Hopefully time for another one tonight  Jon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
298 Posted July 22, 2011 Share Posted July 22, 2011 I've been thinking of using this for a while (magazine article coming up) and can see the obvious advantages, as my supposedly reputable prosumer camera has terrible DoF and minimum focus distance. Â Does the software allow you to keep certain areas out of focus...? All over lighting without shadows is a good way to present a model, but I feel also removing DoF is going further away from how the prototype would have been photographed. Â I've been thinking of using this for a while (magazine article coming up) and can see the obvious advantages, as my supposedly reputable prosumer camera has terrible DoF and minimum focus distance. Â Does the software allow you to keep certain areas out of focus...? All over lighting without shadows is a good way to present a model, but I feel also removing DoF is going further away from how the prototype would have been photographed. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Grant 4472 Posted July 22, 2011 Author Share Posted July 22, 2011 The software is very user-friendly. You only select the photos you want to include in the layers. If you want an out-of-focus background, just dont select any photos which have the background in focus. It's as simple as that. The software will only merge the depth of field that you want it to. Â I've had a bit more practice with the new software and am finding new capabilities and functions all the time. I also decided to try a photo or two at Sweethome Chicago for comparison purposes. The photos were also cropped and edited using Picasa3. Â Â Â Â Â Jon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Y Posted July 22, 2011 Share Posted July 22, 2011 Excellent images Jon; I must get on with an intended topic on here using an open source equivalent (Combine ZP). I've tried Helicon focus and found it to be easy to use but the Combine ZP has more controls through a less friendly interface. Â Have you tried the 3D image toy? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Grant 4472 Posted July 22, 2011 Author Share Posted July 22, 2011 Have you tried the 3D image toy?  Certainly did Andy. All I can say is ...wierd!!!  A few more practice shots      I still have some issues with re-sizing, but that will come with practice  Jon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Grant 4472 Posted July 23, 2011 Author Share Posted July 23, 2011 I took another series of photos today for the latest image. I chose the subject, as the length of the scene is approximately 7 feet from the camera to the sky/backscene.  Included here are the first and last photos in the stack, the basic Helicon Focus image and the straightened, cropped and re-lit image after editing in Picasa3  First shot    Last shot    Initial Helicon Focus image    Final image after editing   There are still some imperfections with the depth of field, especially on the loco, but further practice should improve this aspect.  Jon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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