RMweb Premium CF MRC Posted January 17, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 17, 2017 Depends on the glue. I bought some industrial strength cyanoacrylate at a show. It claimed it would be stronger as a joint than the material it was joining. I was very skeptical. One of the belts on my bandsaw broke, and as spares were unobtainable, I was forced to glue it back together with a butt joint. Five years later it is still going. Chris Actually, cyanoacrylates are the adhesive of choice for these applications: it is used for gluing the ends of the rubber tyres on 4" scale traction engines and these don't break. Being 'stronger' than a flexible belt material is a relative compliment. Tim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 2mmMark Posted January 18, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 18, 2017 Depends on the glue. I bought some industrial strength cyanoacrylate at a show. It claimed it would be stronger as a joint than the material it was joining. I was very skeptical. One of the belts on my bandsaw broke, and as spares were unobtainable, I was forced to glue it back together with a butt joint. Five years later it is still going. Chris What's been amply illustrated to me in the past few months of building work is the difference between "DIY" materials and tools, and what the professionals choose to use. DIY products are deliberately made easier/simpler to use but there's a trade off in strength and convenience. Glues and fillers definitely show up the variation. Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichardBenn Posted January 18, 2017 Share Posted January 18, 2017 I think you seriously under estimate what a three thumbed klutz I'm You and me both, but since investing in an RSU I've found I can achieve the kind of quality in soldering that previously I only ever aspired to. If there were a show called Desert Island Kits it would be my luxury item (solar powered of course) :-) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted January 18, 2017 Author Share Posted January 18, 2017 (edited) You and me both, but since investing in an RSU I've found I can achieve the kind of quality in soldering that previously I only ever aspired to. If there were a show called Desert Island Kits it would be my luxury item (solar powered of course) :-) Same here. My 'conventional' soldering is average to poor (except soldered track where I seem to manage OK). When Tim Shackleton saw the soldering on my 4mm CCT kit brakegear (done with the RSU) he asked how on earth I managed it. The answer is simple. Choose the correct tool for the job. Chris Edited January 18, 2017 by Chris Higgs 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Copleston Posted January 18, 2017 Share Posted January 18, 2017 If there were a show called Desert Island Kits it would be my luxury item (solar powered of course) :-) I love the suggestion - Desert Island Kits! We should start a separate thread to discuss our eight favourite must-take-with-us kits. With choice of an additional modelling book and a 'luxury' tool (a basic equiped workbench is already provided) to take with us. Could be most entertaining! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium CF MRC Posted January 18, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 18, 2017 I've always resisted getting an RSU. Tim 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
garethashenden Posted January 18, 2017 Share Posted January 18, 2017 Actually, cyanoacrylates are the adhesive of choice for these applications: it is used for gluing the ends of the rubber tyres on 4" scale traction engines and these don't break. Being 'stronger' than a flexible belt material is a relative compliment. Tim The company I work for glues parts together and then puts them through several grinding operations. They stayed glued, so it's definitely a case of choosing the right glue for the job. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted January 18, 2017 Author Share Posted January 18, 2017 I've always resisted getting an RSU. Tim Here we go on another set of puns, this time tool-based. Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pyewipe Jct Posted January 18, 2017 Share Posted January 18, 2017 I'm pleased you said that Chris, I didn't want to broach the subject... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted January 18, 2017 Author Share Posted January 18, 2017 I'm pleased you said that Chris, I didn't want to broach the subject... I wouldn't be without my RSU, it would be quite a wrench. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caley Jim Posted January 18, 2017 Share Posted January 18, 2017 I wouldn't be without my RSU, it would be quite a wrench. I think we should just hold it there and fold this before it goes too far...... Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sp1 Posted January 18, 2017 Share Posted January 18, 2017 I think we should just hold it there and fold this before it goes too far...... Jim Sounds as if your bending over backwards Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Robert Shrives Posted January 18, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 18, 2017 Much wailing and grinding ( nashing) of teeth I fear - such lovely work shown I can only say getting the right tool or glues is really a good basic idea they just do not need to be bought at the same time -as skills improve tool choice improves and with some savings a good investment will last years. Well done everybody please keep the inspirational "juices" flowing Robert Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caley Jim Posted January 18, 2017 Share Posted January 18, 2017 Sounds as if your bending over backwardsDepends on which side the half-etched bend line is! :-) Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
scanman Posted February 8, 2017 Share Posted February 8, 2017 Various contributors talk about 'industrial strength' cyanos etc. Any brands/sources?? Regs Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted February 8, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 8, 2017 Siroflex SX is used by the building trade for plastics. I casme across it from a supplier of plastic sections for the trade. It now seems to be more widely available. Loctite do some for metals but at a price. Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim V Posted February 10, 2017 Share Posted February 10, 2017 All of the following are ready to be produced. However I am awaiting confirmation from the Association as to which if any will be shop items. If not, then I will be placing an item in the December Newsletter to sell them on a one-off limited edition basis. Wagon underframes: LNWR 9' LNWR 9'9" LYR 10'6" LYR 12' NPCS underframes: BR CCT (for Farish body) SR BY (for Dapol body) Coach bogies MR 10' Bain Loco replacement chassis GWR 51XX GWR 28XX GWR Hall/Grange/Manor These items will in any case be a one-off offering direct from me: GWR 44XX etched chassis Etched underframes and bogies for the Dapol Maunsell caches LNWR Coal Tank chassis Chris Any update Chris please - I'm after the 51xx chassis. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted February 28, 2017 Author Share Posted February 28, 2017 I'm just getting to grips with the final details on my LSWR G6 and O2 chassis (to go with the N Brass body) and found these two very useful downloads. http://www.jimmcgeown.com/Loco%20Kit%20Pages/Southern%2002%20Chassis%20instructions%20booklet%20print%20off%20pdf%20small.pdf http://www.jimmcgeown.com/Loco%20Kit%20Pages/Southern%2002%20body%20instructions%20booklet%20print%20off%20pdf%20small.pdf Sadly my 2mm chassis are looking a it basic now compared to this beauty. Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted February 28, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 28, 2017 Jim's O2 kit does make up into a nice model. It is big enough to see all that detail. Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wyvern Posted March 6, 2017 Share Posted March 6, 2017 Hi Chris, When do you think the Farish 08 chassis etches might be back in the shop - I assume there has been a bit of a run on them following the 2mm mag article. Many thanks Guy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted March 7, 2017 Author Share Posted March 7, 2017 (edited) Hi Chris, When do you think the Farish 08 chassis etches might be back in the shop - I assume there has been a bit of a run on them following the 2mm mag article. Many thanks Guy They are already there. I sent 8 a week ago. The web page tends to lag behind with stock availability. Chris Edited March 7, 2017 by Chris Higgs Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium PaulCheffus Posted March 7, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 7, 2017 They are already there. I sent 8 a week ago. The web page tends to lag behind with stock availability. Chris Hi The shopkeeper for that shop been away for the whole of February which might explain the delay. Cheers Paul Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted March 7, 2017 Author Share Posted March 7, 2017 (edited) Hi The shopkeeper for that shop been away for the whole of February which might explain the delay. Cheers Paul He's back now though, as he confirmed the safe arrival of the chassis. I delayed sending them so he would be back. So I think if you put in the order it should get supplied. The webpages are done centrally as I understand it, and there being (unsurprisingly) no real-time link to stock levels, only get updated every so often. As the shops do back-orders now, it is probably easier just to order even if shown as out-of-stock, and wait until it arrives. Chris Edited March 7, 2017 by Chris Higgs Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted March 18, 2017 Author Share Posted March 18, 2017 (edited) Here's my design for a 3D-printed radial truck. The idea is that you just plug two Association bearings into the holes in the truck proper, and the truck holder is glued into the slot in the frames. I'll have to get one made and see if the truck slides smoothly enough within the holder, or if the friction is too high, and I have to make etched parts to fold up and provided the actual sliding surfaces. The radial truck is universal, it should be useable in any loco requiring one. Any ideas on how to hold the truck in so it doesn't keep falling out? Edited March 18, 2017 by Chris Higgs 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bécasse Posted March 18, 2017 Share Posted March 18, 2017 A single piece of brass or p/b wire folded into a sort of seriffed U shape and mounted along the c/l axis of the loco under the moulding. Grooves and the start of holes fore and aft on the moulding would help to spring the wire into, and then keep it in, place. Presumably it only needs to keep the radial truck in place when the loco is lifted. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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