RMweb Premium 65179 Posted October 31, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 31, 2016 Etches have arrived. Will need to find some time to build them up. I am quite enthused about the GWR 51XX which I think is going to look good under the Farish body. It weighs a lot and there is room for a big motor. Will need to etch a valence and footsteps though as these really let down the Farish offering. which is otherwise pretty good above the footplate. Not so enthused that apparently the Terrier and J39 are not selling too many in the Association shop :-( Chris Just to show Chris that someone has bought (and is building) his J39 etch, a couple of photos: Still lots to do as you can see. Simon 10 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted November 11, 2016 Author Share Posted November 11, 2016 I wonder what we will get for a bodyshell. Dapol have unconventional ideas of what is the chassis and what is the body. I am told the Dapol Hall has an under-nourished bolier which the CAD designers extended from that of a Manor. Which seems a bizarre thing to do given that Halls were fitted with Swindon No 1 boilers - exactly the same as a 28XX! So I am wondering if it possible to cobble up a proper Hall based on parts from the two. Chris This was as I suspected. When my order arrived only one of the 'bodyshells' had a footplate included. Bizarrely I got two 2884 identically labelled, one with footplate, one without. Not too much of a disaster as the other 2884 was only purchased so that I could rob the boiler to fit to a Hall. Or perhaps a Star by grafting it onto a Farish Castle. No tenders with the bodies. So beware. Lots of ideas floating around in my head as I shall now look to converting the 2884 with a footplate back to a 2800. Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted November 11, 2016 Author Share Posted November 11, 2016 This was as I suspected. When my order arrived only one of the 'bodyshells' had a footplate included. Bizarrely I got two 2884 identically labelled, one with footplate, one without. Not too much of a disaster as the other 2884 was only purchased so that I could rob the boiler to fit to a Hall. Or perhaps a Star by grafting it onto a Farish Castle. No tenders with the bodies. So beware. Lots of ideas floating around in my head as I shall now look to converting the 2884 with a footplate back to a 2800. Chris If you want Dapol Terrier bodies, these can be had for 18.00 in the spares section for Terriers, not with the bodyshells. Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modfather Posted November 11, 2016 Share Posted November 11, 2016 Bargain - thanks for pointing that out Chris. ...just need the skill to build a chassis next! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
2mm Andy Posted November 11, 2016 Share Posted November 11, 2016 If you want Dapol Terrier bodies, these can be had for 18.00 in the spares section for Terriers, not with the bodyshells. Chris http://www.dccsupplies.com/cat-758/a1x-a1x-terrier.htm/2/ They're not quite full bodies though - the smokebox door and detail fittings (available separately) are also needed, although I'd probably replace many of the detailing pipes, etc. with closer-to-scale versions anyway. Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted November 11, 2016 Author Share Posted November 11, 2016 http://www.dccsupplies.com/cat-758/a1x-a1x-terrier.htm/2/ They're not quite full bodies though - the smokebox door and detail fittings (available separately) are also needed, although I'd probably replace many of the detailing pipes, etc. with closer-to-scale versions anyway. Andy Strangely, one of the models seems to have the smokebox door in the photo, the others not. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted November 14, 2016 Author Share Posted November 14, 2016 Does anyone out there own a Dapol Grange? I'm trying to find out whether it has a plastic loco chassis block (like the Manor) or a metal one (like the Hall). A picture on the DCCSupplies website suggests that it is the former.Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richbrummitt Posted November 14, 2016 Share Posted November 14, 2016 That wouldn't necessarily fit with the original announcement for a metal chassis. See here http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/75801-Dapol-announce-n-gauge-grange-at-tings/ Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Kennion Posted November 16, 2016 Share Posted November 16, 2016 Chris Higgs, on 18 Oct 2016 - 17:48, said: Wagon underframes: LNWR 9' LNWR 9'9" LYR 10'6" LYR 12'[snip] David Short has confirmed that all of these will become shop items. It's going to be well into tthe new year before they are available though. Chris Excellent news Chris. Many thanks. Any chance of a preview photo so we know what we're getting etc? Ok if we put a note about these in the LYRS magazine? Sam. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MinerChris Posted November 16, 2016 Share Posted November 16, 2016 Does anyone out there own a Dapol Grange? I'm trying to find out whether it has a plastic loco chassis block (like the Manor) or a metal one (like the Hall). A picture on the DCCSupplies website suggests that it is the former. Chris Its both, Metal frames with plastic spacers. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted November 16, 2016 Author Share Posted November 16, 2016 Its both, Metal frames with plastic spacers. So does it have the brass bearing inserts that fit into the frames i.e. it could be converted using bearings the same or similar to those the shop is now selling for the pannier and Britannia? Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MinerChris Posted November 16, 2016 Share Posted November 16, 2016 So does it have the brass bearing inserts that fit into the frames i.e. it could be converted using bearings the same or similar to those the shop is now selling for the pannier and Britannia? Chris Quite possibly, I'll take a look later. If you want a spare chassis I'm more than happy to oblige, as I converted mine with one of Mr Ashton's Manor chassis' instead. Wasn't Swindon standardisation wonderful... Chris. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted November 28, 2016 Author Share Posted November 28, 2016 25% off everything today only on Shapeways plus free global shipping. Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richbrummitt Posted November 30, 2016 Share Posted November 30, 2016 thanks for the heads up Chris. I've not heard any marketing emails from them for ages so wasn't aware. I got in and ordered some more fireboxes fit larger boilers. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted December 12, 2016 Author Share Posted December 12, 2016 (edited) I'm just working on a new sheet of etches. These will be small volume chassis that will never be suitable as shop items. This is the current list: N (1:148) GWR 44XX to use with the Dapol 45XX body. At least one 44XX can use the Dapol body unmodifed, the rest would need adaption to either the front drop end, steam pipes or bunker. GWR 54XX/64XX for the Bachmann body. I am sure most people will use the new Association conversion pack, however by a miracle I picked up a 64XX body only on ebay. GWR 57XX for the Dapol body. I have some duff ones of these, and these frames will use a 7mm coreless motor mounted low down at the front meaning the Dapol body weight will not need to be removed. GWR Saint - extra frames for the Hall chassis that will be in the shops. Suitable for the 3D printed Saint on Shapeways from JBS (N version). 2mm (1:152) GWR 44XX GWR 45XX GWR 57XX GWR Hall/Manor/Grange/Saint - suitable for the 3D printed Saint on Shapeways from JBS (2mm version). Chris Edited December 12, 2016 by Chris Higgs 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnBS Posted December 13, 2016 Share Posted December 13, 2016 I'm just working on a new sheet of etches. These will be small volume chassis that will never be suitable as shop items. This is the current list: N (1:148) GWR 44XX to use with the Dapol 45XX body. At least one 44XX can use the Dapol body unmodifed, the rest would need adaption to either the front drop end, steam pipes or bunker. GWR 54XX/64XX for the Bachmann body. I am sure most people will use the new Association conversion pack, however by a miracle I picked up a 64XX body only on ebay. GWR 57XX for the Dapol body. I have some duff ones of these, and these frames will use a 7mm coreless motor mounted low down at the front meaning the Dapol body weight will not need to be removed. GWR Saint - extra frames for the Hall chassis that will be in the shops. Suitable for the 3D printed Saint on Shapeways from JBS (N version). 2mm (1:152) GWR 44XX GWR 45XX GWR 57XX GWR Hall/Manor/Grange/Saint - suitable for the 3D printed Saint on Shapeways from JBS (2mm version). Chris Chris,Delighted to see that you will be producing Saint frames for the N-gauge Hall chassis and for 2FS version. Perhaps this will make me get my finger out and finish the Saint. It only needs handrails, lamp irons and smokebox details - and painting and lining. Watch this space. Best wishes., John BTW Son Nick has promised to do a straight framed version soon - it would look great in Venetian Red. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted December 15, 2016 Author Share Posted December 15, 2016 Chris, Delighted to see that you will be producing Saint frames for the N-gauge Hall chassis and for 2FS version. Perhaps this will make me get my finger out and finish the Saint. It only needs handrails, lamp irons and smokebox details - and painting and lining. Watch this space. Best wishes., John BTW Son Nick has promised to do a straight framed version soon - it would look great in Venetian Red. BR Black for me! I'm working on etched footsteps to go with the frames. I don't suppose you have details of the balance weights on a Saint? Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium nick_bastable Posted December 24, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 24, 2016 oh good someones just made my Christmas M7 chassis released now till wait until I can order it before Steve takes a well earned rest Nick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted December 25, 2016 Author Share Posted December 25, 2016 25% off everything today only on Shapeways plus free global shipping. Chris Shapeways now doing 20% off plastics (e.g. FUD) until Jan 1, but you have to pay shipping. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnBS Posted December 25, 2016 Share Posted December 25, 2016 BR Black for me! I'm working on etched footsteps to go with the frames. I don't suppose you have details of the balance weights on a Saint? Chris Chris,I have done a preliminary etch drawing for the Saint footsteps but haven't bothered with the balance weights as I usually use black 10 thou plasticard and just trim them to the spokes in situ. However, would you like the artwork for the steps - it will probably be necessary to adjust the A/W to allow for undercutting, etc. Season's greetings, John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted December 25, 2016 Author Share Posted December 25, 2016 (edited) Chris, I have done a preliminary etch drawing for the Saint footsteps but haven't bothered with the balance weights as I usually use black 10 thou plasticard and just trim them to the spokes in situ. However, would you like the artwork for the steps - it will probably be necessary to adjust the A/W to allow for undercutting, etc. Season's greetings, John I have already managed to produce the etch artwork for the different variations of steps - except the straight frame version but I do have at least sketch drawings for that. I have also done the steps for the tenders, I was amazed at the number of variations in the frame shape on GWR tenders. I find balance weights a particular issue as they are not shown on GA or other drawings. I often resort to measuring the real thing, however that's not an option with a Saint! I don't suppose your son can be persuaded to do a 3000 gallon tender by any chance? In large part it's just a narrower version of the 3500, at least when you model it in 20th century guise. Chris Edited December 26, 2016 by Chris Higgs Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted January 8, 2017 Author Share Posted January 8, 2017 (edited) At the suggestion of Ian Barefoot (scanman) I am working on an etch for a LSWR/SR G6 0-6-0T, hopefully to use with the N Brass body kit. This will have the correct wheelbase for this loco. Just the balance weights to do - always the tricky part as they tend not to be shown on GA drawings. Or perhaps I won't bother as it looks like they didn;t have balance weights in SR days, and the BR photos show various different sets. Given the shortish length of the tanks on these locos (although these also seem to vary between examples) I'm going to propose having a direct worm drive onto the wheels as any sort of two stage reduction is going to put the motor far back into the cab and bunker. Chris Edited January 8, 2017 by Chris Higgs 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bécasse Posted January 8, 2017 Share Posted January 8, 2017 At the suggestion of Ian Barefoot (scanman) I am working on an etch for a LSWR/SR G6 0-6-0T, hopefully to use with the N Brass body kit. This will have the correct wheelbase for this loco. Just the balance weights to do - always the tricky part as they tend not to be shown on GA drawings. Or perhaps I won't bother as it looks like they didn;t have balance weights in SR days, and the BR photos show various different sets. Given the shortish length of the tanks on these locos (although these also seem to vary between examples) I'm going to propose having a direct worm drive onto the wheels as any sort of two stage reduction is going to put the motor far back into the cab and bunker. Chris None of my various reference books make any mention of variations in the lengths of the tanks of G6 class locos. Given that their use was normally restricted to shunting town yards, shunting Southampton Docks and banking trains between the two stations at Exeter, all duties where regular access to water supplies would not have been a problem, there would seem to have been no need to consider making alterations to the tanks. Even the loco that was trialled (unsuccessfully) on the Portland branch in 1922 and which did have some minor alterations to better fit it to the task, had no changes made to the tanks. The quoted water capacity was always 1000 gallons. The most obvious variations between locos of the class related to whether an Adams or a Drummond style boiler was fitted (which varied with time), whether an Adams stovepipe or a Drummond chimney was fitted and whether the loco braking had been converted to vacuum (when a cast weight was added to the front buffer beam). The other variation was, as you have noted, the balance weights which was certainly not just an issue of period as photos exist of locos in LSWR livery with balance weights on the centre driving wheel - in fact, among the various photos that I possess, no two locos have identical sets of balance weights, so obviously best omitted from the chassis kit, but the need to check photos mentioned in the accompanying notes. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
justin1985 Posted January 8, 2017 Share Posted January 8, 2017 Amongst other bits of modelling over Christmas, I finally got around to digging my Jinty conversion chassis back out. I had got it running quite nicely at one stage, but somehow (not sure what point of painting or adding brakegear etc) the worm and motor started running out of true. I had originally tried to use some 1.5mm OD 1mm ID brass tube to bush inside one of the phosphor bronze bearings on the worm mounting to run it from the 1mm shaft on the association can motor, with a stub of 1.5mm axle steel on the other end, that wasn't satisfactory so I ended up removing the bearing on the motor side, so it was only running in the 1.5mm bearing on the stub at the other end - giving only two fixing points rather than three. This was much better, but turned out to be vulnerable. When it got out of alignment, it got shoved in a drawer ... I came back to it at Christmas and tried a new approach. I reinstated the 1.5mm ID phosphor bearing on the other end of the "gearbox" and fitted a new section of worm on a longer section of axle steel. I then fitted the cup end of a UJ mounting (acetal type plastic fitting from N Brass Locos, which i happened to have in stock) and put the corresponding cross-piece on the motor shaft. This has added a few mm to the length of the motor assembly but it still fits within the original Farish body (I could always cut off the other end of the motor shaft - but if it ain't broke ... ) I was then able to mount the can motor using some blue-tac and adjust until I got good running, then fixed with plenty of cyano. I'm sure this isn't an optimal engineering solution, but I like the fact it allows adjustment, or replacement of the motor, while also being a convenient way of joining the worm and its bearings of 1.5mm OD to the motor with 1mm OD shaft. Looking at the photo now, it seems clear the motor is pointing slightly downhill, which I hadn't noticed in the flesh. It still seems to work pretty well though! Once the mechanism was running nicely on my rolling road (OK, not a rolling road, the top of a Minitrix wire brush wheel cleaner) it still was't running so well on real world track. I noticed 1) the wheel cleaner hadn't done that great a job at all, despite having been running in on top of it for ages, so cleaned the wheels with a fibreglass brush. 2) The Simpson springs I'd fitted to the leading axle had bent out of alignment and were no longer serving any purpose. I had been a little sceptical of the springs made from the recommended N gauge coupling springs, and I think they'd already become a little mangled when fitting the wheels using the quartering jig in the first place. Out with the soldering iron and I whipped out the originals, and soldered some much thicker (well, 0.31mm) phosphor bronze wire from Eileens directly to the frames in a similar position. This actually seems springy, rather than lettuce like, even if it is heavier than recommended. I also took the opportunity to fit even more weight in the smokebox and bunker of the body (and got some superglue onto the paintwork, which will now need to be rubbed down and redone). The loco now runs pretty reliably! Finally! It is very loud, and has a slightly rhythmic whine that suggests something isn't running quite true, but good enough for a test loco that doesn't actually fit my layout plans Justin 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted January 12, 2017 Author Share Posted January 12, 2017 (edited) Not an etch, but a chassis. I just got back from Shapeways a 3D print of a GWR 3500 gallon tender chassis, to go under the Dapol body. The Dapol chassis has the frames too far apart to accomodate their pickups from the axles, and hence looks quite poor (by contrast the Peco model of a Collett 3500 does this much better). This 3D print improves the appearance considerably. Apart from getting the slots for the body slightly too far forward, it looks great. I am going to be drawing a number of these, as there are various combinations of axlebox springs, and the frame shape to cover. Chris Edited January 12, 2017 by Chris Higgs 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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