Any Question Answered

[queensquare]

52 minutes ago, Lacathedrale said:

I have had access to a milling machine for a few years, but my 2 mm kit building has been mostly dormant during that time.

 

Am I to understand that solid block chassis are out of vogue at the moment? It feels like an obvious choice, either in tufnol, or solid brass with insulating bushes pressed in as necessary? 

Solid block chassis have a lot going for them and give excellent results but do require a bit more work and need access to some machine tools. A leading exponent is currently putting together an article for MRJ for me on their construction

 

cheers Jerry

[nick_bastable]

The Association offer this 

 

 

Nick B

Edited June 20 by nick_bastable
pps

[2mmMark]

3 hours ago, queensquare said:

Solid block chassis have a lot going for them and give excellent results but do require a bit more work and need access to some machine tools. A leading exponent is currently putting together an article for MRJ for me on their construction

 

cheers Jerry

Actually, they're not to hard to build using hand tools if 1/4" Acetal is used as the block material. It's easily available in sheet form. It saws, drills and taps very easily.

Tufnol is a very traditional material but I find the fibre weave makes it rather hard to work tidily.  Best results are from the finest "carp" brand material.

Mark

[queensquare]

40 minutes ago, 2mmMark said:

Actually, they're not to hard to build using hand tools if 1/4" Acetal is used as the block material. It's easily available in sheet form. It saws, drills and taps very easily.

Tufnol is a very traditional material but I find the fibre weave makes it rather hard to work tidily.  Best results are from the finest "carp" brand material.

Mark

Thanks Mark. I was thinking more along the lines of solid brass blocks which give that very useful low down weight as used by Ian Smith, Nigel Ashton and probably others 

 

cheers Jerry

[2mmMark]

If anyone has an assembled 2-358 BR 21T hopper underframe, could they measure the length over the buffer beams for me?

Thanks

Mark

[Klaus ojo]

Mark,

I have measured 42.8 or 43mm from one buffer beam to the other without hook plate.

(If it is the Fence Houses etch)

regards    Klaus

[2mmMark]

11 hours ago, Klaus ojo said:

Mark,

I have measured 42.8 or 43mm from one buffer beam to the other without hook plate.

(If it is the Fence Houses etch)

regards    Klaus

Thanks Klaus, much appreciated.

Mark

[MrSimon]

Hi all,

 

I saw that there were new LNER 10’ coach bogies in shop 4 - what would these have been used under?  The GC barnhams/matchboard stock had 10’ bogies but with outside springs, were they re-bogied with the new etch or are they for something else?

 

Many thanks

Simon

[65179]

7 minutes ago, MrSimon said:

Hi all,

 

I saw that there were new LNER 10’ coach bogies in shop 4 - what would these have been used under?  The GC barnhams/matchboard stock had 10’ bogies but with outside springs, were they re-bogied with the new etch or are they for something else?

 

Many thanks

Simon

 

No Simon

 

These are the 10ft Gresley bogies used with the articulated coaches in sets like the Coronation. See for example the drawings provided by Mike Trice on Western Thunder here: https://www.westernthunder.co.uk/threads/gresley-carriages-in-detail.9809/page-4#post-280489

 

The Robinson GC stock fitted with 10ft bogies you refer to retained GC bogies to withdrawal.

 

Simon

[Chris Higgs]

23 hours ago, 65179 said:

 

No Simon

 

These are the 10ft Gresley bogies used with the articulated coaches in sets like the Coronation. See for example the drawings provided by Mike Trice on Western Thunder here: https://www.westernthunder.co.uk/threads/gresley-carriages-in-detail.9809/page-4#post-280489

 

The Robinson GC stock fitted with 10ft bogies you refer to retained GC bogies to withdrawal.

 

Simon

 

IIRC, some of the VSOL Pullman coaches now run on 10' Gresleys  (see kentrail.org.uk)

 

I think this might be one: www.flickr.com/photos/camperdown/6972647478/

 

Although they do seem to have gained roller axle bearings.

 

Chris

 

 

Edited July 9 by Chris Higgs

[Ian Smeeton]

I have taken the plunge and ordered a couple of kits from Mike Edge, an 06 and a Clayton.

 

Has anyone built any of these shot-down kits (from 4mm originally), and if so, any advice.

 

I think that I will be tackling the 06 first.

 

Regards

 

Ian

[Nigelcliffe]

19 hours ago, Ian Smeeton said:

I have taken the plunge and ordered a couple of kits from Mike Edge, an 06 and a Clayton.

 

Has anyone built any of these shot-down kits (from 4mm originally), and if so, any advice.

 

I think that I will be tackling the 06 first.

 

Regards

 

Ian

 

Jumping in the deep end ?

 

06 is a small 0-4-0.  Chances are you may be able to use the etch frames and coupling rods, but rest of chassis is scratch build.  The issue with 0-4-0's is pickup, which can be helped with weight low down, when I've built small 0-4-0's, I've tried to get 1/4in brass bar into the chassis, with slots milled to clear gears/axles to maximise weight low down.   Then insulate the bar from the actual frames.  Some of my locos have frames from 0.3mm thick PCB (easy to cut insulating gaps!), with bushes soldered in for axle bearings.  

Jackshaft under cab:  my recommendation, don't bother with it.   Just have the rods extended to where the shaft cranks should be, fit the outer crank pin nuts, and just have "matt dark stuff" behind the steps which doesn't go round  (nobody has ever commented on my 04 for this behaviour!).   If you must have something going round, then copy how Farish do it on the N gauge 03/04 chassis - the cranks are free rotating on a pin (not connected to each other), and are pushed around by the rigid coupling rod.   Either of these methods means the rods are rigid, so no complications of articulated joints in the coupling rods.  

 

If going DCC with these (recommended), then plan where the decoder, and where the stay-alive components will go before assembly.  There is a lot of space in the lower part of the cab, below window line.  

 

 

[Kevin Johnson]

I'm new to 2mm finescale. Just one question for now. Where can I purchase ivy for a diorama I'm in the middle of building.

[CF MRC]

A delaminated fine dark green scouring pad is a good start. 
 

Tim

[richbrummitt]

Buy the absolute lowest quality you can locate; they delaminate more easily. 

[John57sharp]

Any thoughts on this?

 

I’m building the Association 08 chassis with added spacers a screws per Mick Simpson’s article.

 

All is well until the fold up layered etch dummy frames are added. These appear to be designed to fit outboard of the small tabs on the chassis, and then the axle extensions fit into the dummy hornblocks. On mine these 2 dimensions do not agree, the tabs throw the frames out too wide, causing bowing and unwanted tension….

 

Back to back is correct so I am assuming I have overlooked something?

 

TIA

 

John

[Chris Higgs]

On 20/07/2024 at 14:08, John57sharp said:

Any thoughts on this?

 

I’m building the Association 08 chassis with added spacers a screws per Mick Simpson’s article.

 

All is well until the fold up layered etch dummy frames are added. These appear to be designed to fit outboard of the small tabs on the chassis, and then the axle extensions fit into the dummy hornblocks. On mine these 2 dimensions do not agree, the tabs throw the frames out too wide, causing bowing and unwanted tension….

 

Back to back is correct so I am assuming I have overlooked something?

 

TIA

 

John

 

Can we get some more details? I am assuming you are talking about the Farish conversion chassis for the 08 here, not the Association 08 kit?

 

It was indeed intended that the outer frames should be attached to the tabs, although you can do other things if you wish. But most important is that the chassis was designed when we had an earlier iteration of the extended axles, not the current MK5 with slide-on outside cranks. So it could be that the cranks are not far enough out, rather than the frames being too far out. You can always put the cranks further out by putting spacing washers behind them.

 

Some pictures would be really handy to understand better ...

 

Chris.

[John57sharp]

1 hour ago, Chris Higgs said:

 

Can we get some more details? I am assuming you are talking about the Farish conversion chassis for the 08 here, not the Association 08 kit?

 

It was indeed intended that the outer frames should be attached to the tabs, although you can do other things if you wish. But most important is that the chassis was designed when we had an earlier iteration of the extended axles, not the current MK5 with slide-on outside cranks. So it could be that the cranks are not far enough out, rather than the frames being too far out. You can always put the cranks further out by putting spacing washers behind them.

 

Some pictures would be really handy to understand better ...

 

Chris.

Thanks Chris, your response makes perfect sense, in fact it sounds familiar and I suspect you may have mentioned it before somewhere, but the penny only just dropped in my head. 
 

I’ll get some washers installed, probably tomorrow now,and report back.

 

cheers

John

[John57sharp]

@Chris Higgs here is one of  my wheels just for completeness. I’ve taken the cranks off in readiness.

 

Also, I think it was @Izzy that warned me previously.

 

cheers

John

 

[Izzy]

2 hours ago, John57sharp said:

@Chris Higgs here is one of  my wheels just for completeness. I’ve taken the cranks off in readiness.

 

Also, I think it was @Izzy that warned me previously.

 

cheers

John

 

 

Sorry not to have replied to your query earlier John but grandkids from Austraila on their first visit have been taking precendent as you might expect. Now the Tornado has moved to Amsterdam & Switzerland for a couple of weeks before returning we can catch our breath for the next bit of fun/onslaught.......

 

Anyway here's a shot of one of my Farish/etched chassis builds with the outside frames in place, well the chassis is separate from them and slides up between but the end result is the same. As you have the Mk4 brass wheels you must leave the extended axles at full length. Push the (etched) cranks up to the shoulder and there just isn't the clearance, they are too tight. They have to sit right on the end so there some play. The slots in the outside frames must also be opened up to give clearance over them.

 

 

 

I don't know if the new cranks for the Mk5/6 wheels will fit on them, they didn't exist when I made my two.

 

Bob

 

[John57sharp]

Thanks Bob and Chris, I can definitely proceed now. I’ve got some appropriate washers in stock so I’ll have a go. If all else fails I could move on to the new wheels and cranks, I have to say they do look nice! 
 

I was horrified to look back and find that this build started in around 2017, though I messed up the first one and started again, learning as we go…. I can see the end in sight though, feeling more confident now.

 

onwards!

 

JOHN

[John57sharp]

Hmm, seems the spacers I have are much too small. Any suggestions? I’m currently think 14ba washers may work, but I don’t have any yet.

 

TIA again

 

John

[Chris Higgs]

1 hour ago, John57sharp said:

Hmm, seems the spacers I have are much too small. Any suggestions? I’m currently think 14ba washers may work, but I don’t have any yet.

 

TIA again

 

John

 

The clearances are all a bit tight, which arises really from 2FS (and N) wheels being overwidth over the faces compared to the prototype, which pushes the frames out. The springs are slimmed down to partially compensate but even so. 

 

If you feel the cranks soldered on will be strong enough just solder them on at the end of the axle, not pushed against the shoulder. But getting them square is going to tricky.

 

If you have a lathe you could turn down the extended axles and use the new turned cranks.

 

I must admit I always thought the Mk4 extended axles were going to be a bit of a stretch to get cranks on true, and when Alan Smith cam up with the MK5 wheels with the turned cranks, I was delighted. They really are the dog's whatsits.

 

CHris  

[nick_bastable]

13 hours ago, Chris Higgs said:

 

 

 

If you have a lathe you could turn down the extended axles and use the new turned cranks.

 

 

 

CHris  

with care a minidrill would perhaps work

 

Nick B

[John57sharp]

On 22/07/2024 at 22:22, Chris Higgs said:

 

The clearances are all a bit tight, which arises really from 2FS (and N) wheels being overwidth over the faces compared to the prototype, which pushes the frames out. The springs are slimmed down to partially compensate but even so. 

 

If you feel the cranks soldered on will be strong enough just solder them on at the end of the axle, not pushed against the shoulder. But getting them square is going to tricky.

 

If you have a lathe you could turn down the extended axles and use the new turned cranks.

 

I must admit I always thought the Mk4 extended axles were going to be a bit of a stretch to get cranks on true, and when Alan Smith cam up with the MK5 wheels with the turned cranks, I was delighted. They really are the dog's whatsits.

 

CHris  

Thanks Chris, I do have a lathe and this seems a simple enough way forward, and, if I screw it up I can replace the wheels with Mk 5s.

 

I’ll order the cranks now

 

Does anybody know the correct dimension for the extended axle?

 

cheers

john