Any Question Answered

[Steven B]

Chesterfield Models will sell you a made up, ready to use DCC-EX system for under £100:

https://chesterfield-models.co.uk/product/dccex/

 

You can select what options you'd like to include - for example if you've got an old laptop power supply that outputs 12-15V then you can removed a power supply from the shopping list and save £20.

I'd opt for a base system with Wi-Fi. Either motor shield will work but you only get the option of a display if you select the DCC-EX8874 motor control shield.

 

Steven B.

 

[Velocemitch]

22 minutes ago, Steven B said:

Chesterfield Models will sell you a made up, ready to use DCC-EX system for under £100:

https://chesterfield-models.co.uk/product/dccex/

 

You can select what options you'd like to include - for example if you've got an old laptop power supply that outputs 12-15V then you can removed a power supply from the shopping list and save £20.

I'd opt for a base system with Wi-Fi. Either motor shield will work but you only get the option of a display if you select the DCC-EX8874 motor control shield.

 

Steven B.

 

Yes, I noticed them when I searched DCCEX, looks very promising. Haven’t worked out what the display offers, I would ( I think) bluetooth, or WiFi ( which ?) it to my old IPad, so I assume that would provide the display?

 

might have a laptop power source too, though which plug adapter it has, I’m not sure.

Edited May 21 by Velocemitch
Spelling

[Donw]

you do not need to have a display. If you are using Engine Driver on an Android phone or Withrottle on an Iphone they will display what you need to drive locos. I see three have just been sold while I answered the door.

 

Don

[nick_bastable]

4 hours ago, Velocemitch said:

Yes, I noticed them when I searched DCCEX, looks very promising. Haven’t worked out what the display offers, I would ( I think) bluetooth, or WiFi ( which ?) it to my old IPad, so I assume that would provide the display?

 

might have a laptop power source too, though which plug adapter it has, I’m not sure.

https://dcc-ex.com/index.html#gsc.tab=0  will give you all the info  if you have a suitable powerbrick a quick look at that auction site suggests the kit will be less than £50 from UK suppliers.    I built one a few  years ago and it worked very well although I prefer the MERG system.

 

Failing that a SPROG https://www.sprog-dcc.co.uk/  works well

 

Nick

Edited May 21 by nick_bastable
pps

[Chris Higgs]

5 hours ago, Velocemitch said:

Yes, I noticed them when I searched DCCEX, looks very promising. Haven’t worked out what the display offers, I would ( I think) bluetooth, or WiFi ( which ?) it to my old IPad, so I assume that would provide the display?

 

might have a laptop power source too, though which plug adapter it has, I’m not sure.

 

I built an equivalent system by ordering the Arduino Mega and motor shield direct from Aliexpress for even less. When I looked around the house I had a myriad of old power supplies available from obsolete devices. There is indeed free software available to control it from your laptop.  Free is about the correct price for it. 😀

 

You also build very inexpensive DCC accessory decoders based on Arduinos or similar. 

 

Chris

Edited May 21 by Chris Higgs

[Caley Jim]

17 minutes ago, nick_bastable said:

Failing that a SPROG https://www.sprog-dcc.co.uk/  works well

I find a SPROG and JMRI invaluable for programming locos.  With it linked to a short test track you can easily make adjustments to CVs without having to know the specific values required, and then immediately run the loco to see what the results are.

 

Jim

[nick_bastable]

9 minutes ago, Caley Jim said:

I find a SPROG and JMRI invaluable for programming locos.  With it linked to a short test track you can easily make adjustments to CVs without having to know the specific values required, and then immediately run the loco to see what the results are.

 

Jim

To clarify  both DCCEX and SPROG  as does the MERG version use JMRI

[Izzy]

Forgive me if this is incorrect but while a Sprog + JMRI can be run from a computor of some description and can be both a full programming system and a command station, (wouldn't want to be without mine!), would it be right to assume that the DCCEX is just a command station without a display added into the mix? That to be able to program a decoder some screen is needed other than that for throttle control via the two main apps, engine driver/wi-throttle?  I'm not sure either whether POM is possible with either of them unlike with a Sprog.  Can someone confirm what is possible just so the OP knows the range of options available. I'd be interested as well!

 

Bob

[nick_bastable]

1 hour ago, Izzy said:

Forgive me if this is incorrect but while a Sprog + JMRI can be run from a computor of some description and can be both a full programming system and a command station, (wouldn't want to be without mine!), would it be right to assume that the DCCEX is just a command station without a display added into the mix? That to be able to program a decoder some screen is needed other than that for throttle control via the two main apps, engine driver/wi-throttle?  I'm not sure either whether POM is possible with either of them unlike with a Sprog.  Can someone confirm what is possible just so the OP knows the range of options available. I'd be interested as well!

 

Bob

DCCEX and SPROG  as does the MERG version use JMRI,   so a computer is required and a screen they all work the same the software does the clever bit

[Donw]

The simplest way to program decoders with DCCEX is probably to use JMRI on your PC with it connected to the USB port on the processor board. You can use a PC and JMRI to run locos etc. I haven't mentioned it because people seem to find the phones so much easier than being sat at a PC but for intial set up of Decoder Pro can have a basic setup you use for all decoders.

However DCCEX also provide a PC browser based throttle which is very good and one of the screens is a CV programer so you have all the options there. It becomes an App.

I also have a commercial wifi throttle which connects to DCCEX but this is an expensive option. I am developing a home brewed option which should be under £50 quid with a keypad and OLED screen. I probably wont bother with service mode programming but may include Programming on the Main. When I get this sorted pout the code will be available freely.

 

Don

[Steven B]

DCC-EX is fully compatible with JMRI and can do POM.

 

As part of the DCC-EX family is the EX-Toolbox app for Android mobile phones/tablets. This does allow for programming on the main without needing a PC running JMRI attached. The app has most of the common CVs listed with human friendly names. What it doesn't do it have the specific decoder CV definitions that's one of JMRI's DecoderPro's big strengths - you'll need to know the CV number and appropriate value for things like mapping lighting fuctions.

 

 

Steven B

Edited May 22 by Steven B

[MarshLane]

A quick question has anyone tried converting a Farish LNER/BR A1 or A2 Pacific into 2FS?  If so, can anyone offer any insights into how you did it?

 

Rich

Edited May 27 by MarshLane

[Ian Smeeton]

At the Derby Supermeet, I picked up an Ultima Van B Southern Bogie Van kit.

 

I don't suppose that anyone has a set of instructions that they could scan for me?

 

Regards

 

Ian

[SandHutton]

Quote

 

A quick question has anyone tried converting a Farish LNER/BR A1 or A2 Pacific into 2FS?  If so, can anyone offer any insights into how you did it?

 

Rich

 

 

I haven't converted one myself but my thoughts on how you might do it are as follows

 

Main Drivers

• The main drivers could either have new 2FS replacement hornblocks fitted and 2FS wheels.  You then need to modify the valve gear or scratch built new.
• Turn the existing drivers in a lathe to have new 2FS tyres fitted in a lathe.  Ideally you need a collet set to hold to wheel hub accurately.  Quarter the wheels, set the back to back and then refit the valve gear 

Tender wheels

• Turn the wheels to receive 2FS tyres.  You would have to remove the traction tyres reducing haulage.  Unfortunately if you turn the wheels and simply set them at a larger back to back you will find they will fall out of the bearings requiring the bearings to be modified.  

Bogie wheels

• Turn the fronts and the backs of the wheels in a lathe to approx 2mm standards and set to 2mm back to back.  Put some spacers to limit slop.  Refit in the bogie
• Scratch built a bogie with 2FS wheels 

A left field alternative if all that sounds too much is to keep it as n gauge but use Finetrax n gauge trackwork.  Sadly 2mm steam locos are rarely that straightforward.  

[Jan W]

On 01/06/2024 at 12:44, SandHutton said:

Turn the existing drivers in a lathe to have new 2FS tyres fitted in a lathe.  Ideally you need a collet set to hold to wheel hub accurately. 

I do have a collet set but I always use a piece of plastic rod (I use acrylic rod) to chuck the wheels for turning them down:

Turn the face of the rod true and drill a hole for the wheel boss or axle.

The wheel boss or axle should be a tight fit in the hole.

Press the wheel against the plastic mandrel with a revolving center in the tailstock.

Then turn down the wheel rim taking light cuts only (to prevent the wheel from slipping in the mandrel).

With this method no special tools are needed and the wheel will run perfectly true in the lathe.

 

Jan

[Izzy]

On 26/05/2024 at 22:41, MarshLane said:

A quick question has anyone tried converting a Farish LNER/BR A1 or A2 Pacific into 2FS?  If so, can anyone offer any insights into how you did it?

 

Rich

I’m afraid I haven’t done one, but looking at the exploded diagram on the Bachmann site it appears it uses the split axle current collection system they used on steam locos for a while. So perhaps the tender drive could be converted using the bearings  & muffs designed for it, as long as the gear muff has the correct number of teeth. The same could be used to replace the loco wheels I would guess. How good the traction might be is another matter. 
 

If you have a lathe, or know someone who does, then just skimming the wheel backs seems the easiest, and certainly the cheapest, way of doing it. You’d still be able to keep the traction tyres I.e. not reduce the overall wheel width, always assuming there would be enough clearance inside the outer frames. However clearance behind the loco crossheads, with the wider b-t-b, will be key whatever way you go. And you’d have to keep the oversized Farish motion. 
 

Bob

[Nig H]

Hi,

 

I am trying to connect a stay alive to a DCX76z and I can't identify the positive and ground terminals. I've looked at the pics in the '1001.' website and none of the versions look like my version. The versions shown all look like approximately mirror images of one side of mine. Here are the pics of mine.

 

 

 

 

Can anyone identify the +ve and -ve for me please?

 

Nigel Hunt

[Nigelcliffe]

4 hours ago, Nig H said:

Hi,

 

I am trying to connect a stay alive to a DCX76z and I can't identify the positive and ground terminals. I've looked at the pics in the '1001.' website and none of the versions look like my version. The versions shown all look like approximately mirror images of one side of mine. Here are the pics of mine.....

 

Doesn't look like any I've got documentation for.    So, volt meter time, taking extreme care to not short out anything.  Power it on DCC and measure, then try to work things out from the measurements.     Guess there will be an auxillary output (which may look like +volts unless the function controlling it is activated, when it will drop to ground or near to ground),  +volts, ground and probably a +5volts.   

[Nick Mitchell]

6 hours ago, Nig H said:

I am trying to connect a stay alive to a DCX76z and I can't identify the positive and ground terminals.

...

Can anyone identify the +ve and -ve for me please?

 

I had exactly the same conundrum. Followed @Nigelcliffe's advice and identified the pads as follows:

 

[Nig H]

13 hours ago, Nigelcliffe said:

 

Doesn't look like any I've got documentation for.    So, volt meter time, taking extreme care to not short out anything.  Power it on DCC and measure, then try to work things out from the measurements.     Guess there will be an auxillary output (which may look like +volts unless the function controlling it is activated, when it will drop to ground or near to ground),  +volts, ground and probably a +5volts.   

 

11 hours ago, Nick Mitchell said:

 

I had exactly the same conundrum. Followed @Nigelcliffe's advice and identified the pads as follows:

 

 

Hi Nigel and Nick,

 

Thanks for helping me out with this. I found more DCX76zs with a layout like the ones shown on the website so I could have used one of those but now I can carry on with the original. Maybe its best to identify the connection points first thing in future.

 

Nigel Hunt

[Tony Heywood]

On 26/05/2024 at 22:41, MarshLane said:

A quick question has anyone tried converting a Farish LNER/BR A1 or A2 Pacific into 2FS?  If so, can anyone offer any insights into how you did it?

 

Rich

Edited May 27 by MarshLane

 

I have not done one myself, but I can tell you what Neil Ballantine did with an A1 that we (Dunallander Project Group) have inherited:

 

tender: Neil turned down the N gauge flanges and regauged. A potential problem is that the bearing can work loose from its housing - then the wheels just spin. This is a recurring issue for us on the front axle - not sure why, as the clearances don't seem any different from the others. But he's done the same with other tender drive Farish types (eg. Scot, Jubilee, Black 5) and they are all fine, with reasonable haulage - our Jubilee takes six coaches comfortably, while the Scot is happy with ten.

 

loco front bogie & pony truck: he used his own replacement carrying wheels with plastic centres on the original axles; unfortunately these wheels aren't available any more

 

loco drivers: N gauge wheels turned and regauged. Unlike the tender, the bearings aren't a problem. However, the plastic fitting with the reversing rod is very delicate, and it's broken on one side of our loco. There's evidence of an attempted repair with glue. More significant is the centre crankpin. If you release (unscrew) the return crank and look underneath, you'll see a small lug that aligns with a gap of that size in the rim of the crankpin. This arrangement, when screwed moderately tight, holds the assembly firmly in place. When these wheelsets are regauged, and you add a small washer between the connecting and coupling rods to solve the problem with the rods binding that afflicts Farish tender drive locos, the height of the conn rod relative to the top of the crankpin is raised, and this can make it hard or impossible to get the crankpin and return crank locked together with the screw sufficiently tight that it doesn't work loose. (We have this problem with a BR standard 5 73xxx and standard 4 76xxx) Yet without the washer, the tendency for the rods to bind will be even worse than in N gauge unless you do some serious bending of the conn rod.

 

Bottom lines from this experience:

1/ it does seem possible to regauge the Farish motorised tenders

2/ for this particular loco, re-using the original wheelsets doesn't look like a good idea.

 

Hope this is helpful. Tony Heywood.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Nig H]

On 05/06/2024 at 09:07, Nig H said:

 

Hi Nigel and Nick,

 

Thanks for helping me out with this. I found more DCX76zs with a layout like the ones shown on the website so I could have used one of those but now I can carry on with the original. Maybe its best to identify the connection points first thing in future.

 

Nigel Hunt

I programmed the decoder with my Sprogg 2, but at some point when I re-tested it, I got this - programme error, 'no loco detected'. I thought that the changes to the CVs would not be kept, but after a few attempts I found that the changes were being recorded, and I could get the throttle to respond. No idea what was happening but the decoder seemed to be working anyway.

 

 

I added the leads to the two pads and re-tested the decoder. I kept getting this alert.

 

 

I re-examined the connections to the pads, and although it was hard to see clearly, I got the impression that there may have been a bit of solder creep from the pad part way along the side of the decoder to the adjacent component, causing a short. So, I removed the lead, did a bit of cleaning up and on re-testing the decoder, DecoderPro recognised the decoder and I was able to use the throttle to run the motor.

 

I then re-attached the lead and the re-test was OK. I was part way through re-attaching the decoder to the back of the motor so it would all fit in the loco body, and I realised the lead and the pad it was soldered to had come adrift. I assumed it would not be possible to re-connect the lead and pad to the decoder, so I completely dismantled all the connections. So now I'll have to start all over again, but at least I know what length to make the wires on the decoder. I used some decoder wire to attach to the +ve and -ve pads but I think I'll try some single strand wire instead next time.

 

Nigel Hunt

[garethashenden]

Does anyone know the length of the 1-024 narrow gauge sleepers sold by the Association? 

[flubrush]

40 minutes ago, garethashenden said:

Does anyone know the length of the 1-024 narrow gauge sleepers sold by the Association? 

 

12mm.  I've got a bag which I got in error if you are looking for some.

 

Jim.

[Lacathedrale]

I have had access to a milling machine for a few years, but my 2 mm kit building has been mostly dormant during that time.

 

Am I to understand that solid block chassis are out of vogue at the moment? It feels like an obvious choice, either in tufnol, or solid brass with insulating bushes pressed in as necessary?