Any Question Answered

[Caley Jim]

34 minutes ago, nick_bastable said:

can someone enlighten me how 2-069 Buffer Mounting Jig: Etched NS  is used ?

It was originally intended for use with separate cast buffer guides and turned buffers/rams in order to ensure that they were set at the correct length.  Unfortunately that project ran into technical problems and had to be abandoned, resulting in the present cast brass buffer range.

 

Jim (who made the masters for said buffer guides)

[nick_bastable]

34 minutes ago, Caley Jim said:

It was originally intended for use with separate cast buffer guides and turned buffers/rams in order to ensure that they were set at the correct length.  Unfortunately that project ran into technical problems and had to be abandoned, resulting in the present cast brass buffer range.

 

Jim (who made the masters for said buffer guides)

thank you so it is of no use to me then

[richbrummitt]

13 hours ago, nick_bastable said:

thank you so it is of no use to me then

and perhaps not to anyone else. 

[2mm Andy]

3 hours ago, richbrummitt said:

and perhaps not to anyone else. 

A bit harsh perhaps? It is actually of some (limited) use - some of the plastic wagon body kits sold in the shops (the ones originating from Parkside Dundas and a few from the NGS) have buffer guides moulded as part of the body mouldings, so the etch is useful when it comes to fitting buffer heads to those (unless you chop the plastic buffers off and fit the cast or turned brass buffers also available from the shops).

 

Andy

Edited October 11, 2022 by 2mm Andy

[Lacathedrale]

Now time has moved on a little, is there a known solution for converting the Farish C-class to 2mmFS? 

 

I have access to a lathe so in theory I could turn down the wheels but before I get myself in trouble...

Edited November 2, 2022 by Lacathedrale

[Chris Higgs]

1 hour ago, Lacathedrale said:

Now time has moved on a little, is there a known solution for converting the Farish C-class to 2mmFS? 

 

I have access to a lathe so in theory I could turn down the wheels but before I get myself in trouble...

 

IIRC, a C class has a 8' + 8'6" wheelbase so the Farish Jinty conversion chassis would at least provide some frames.

 

Although given the nature of the Farish construction with the bottom portion of the boiler being part of the chassis, I suspect wheel reprofiling is the path of least resistance.

 

I do recall having drawn up a C class set of frames with the idea of somehow combining them with parts for a Farish 4F but abandoning the idea as too silly, the wheelbase being the only real common factor.

 

Chris

[Lacathedrale]

Ah, ok - thank you Chris. Supplemental question: is Jun 1981 the most up to date guide on turning down drivers? I'm not quite at that stage yet but it would be good to know my options!

[nick_bastable]

2 hours ago, Lacathedrale said:

Ah, ok - thank you Chris. Supplemental question: is Jun 1981 the most up to date guide on turning down drivers? I'm not quite at that stage yet but it would be good to know my options!

Mine was converted by Keith Armes ,  all axles included the tenders where retyred with 2mm rims  the coupling rods  (I think using Jinty Rods)  and pins replaced  runs a treat

 

[Lacathedrale]

Ah I'd not thought about replacing only the tyres - that's not a terrible idea assuming the gauge can be set properly afterwards?

[nick_bastable]

5 minutes ago, Lacathedrale said:

Ah I'd not thought about replacing only the tyres - that's not a terrible idea assuming the gauge can be set properly afterwards?

mine runs to  gauge as does another I know Keith  converted prior to his untimly loss

 

if it all goes wrong Bachmann sell spares https://Bachmann-spares.co.uk/product/category/1329/c-class-0-6-0-wheelset---green-372-775/f7277-103-02

Edited November 2, 2022 by nick_bastable
added info

[Lacathedrale]

7 minutes ago, nick_bastable said:

mine runs to  gauge as does another I know Keith  converted prior to his untimly loss

 

if it all goes wrong Bachmann sell spares https://Bachmann-spares.co.uk/product/category/1329/c-class-0-6-0-wheelset---green-372-775/f7277-103-02

 

I did a quick search but couldn't see anything and that's a life-saver - I can practise without undue risk. I have ordered a deeply discount C-class, a set of spare drivers to practise on from Bachmann Spares, and a set of Maunsell-era Southern transfers from Fox - so I guess I'm committed at this point.

 

Do you know if there was there a reason for re-tiring as apposed to turning the wheels down, out of curiosity? 

[nick_bastable]

17 minutes ago, Lacathedrale said:

 

I did a quick search but couldn't see anything and that's a life-saver - I can practise without undue risk. I have ordered a deeply discount C-class, a set of spare drivers to practise on from Bachmann Spares, and a set of Maunsell-era Southern transfers from Fox - so I guess I'm committed at this point.

 

Do you know if there was there a reason for re-tiring as apposed to turning the wheels down, out of curiosity? 

As I understand it you get the true wheel profile  which is difficult if not impossible to do with turned wheels  Im sure there has been a article recently about fitting tyres to wheels

[Izzy]

 

Having turned down a few sets of Bachmann/Farish wheels, but not re-rimmed any so far, I'd say the advantage of just skimming the backs (and fronts if possible), is less accuracy is needed, a simple mounting jig to keep the wheel flat/at 90degrees to the axis, whereas re-rimming needs more in the way of accurate jig making to ensure absolute concentricity. The advantage of the latter though is the wheels can be more to 2mm width which because of the design isn't often possible just re-profiling them. Removing and re-inserting the plastic insulating bush is a key aspect in my experience, you can't machine the wheels on the axles as it just destroys them.

 

 @Nick Mitchell re-rimmed a Farish WD 2-8-0, August/September 2014 magazine, but this like my Jinty/4F involved the split-axle type wheels which I believe are no longer used but were easier to machine and keep true running than the previous and current types having a boss on the back and much longer plastic insulating bushes.

 

Bob

[Lacathedrale]

@Izzythank you for the tips - with the availability of spare wheels the pressure is off a little, but I think after conversation with @justin1985 I'll work on the flange depth/width as a primary concern and get things working before I worry about skimming the front.

 

Can I please confirm what you mean about removing the plastic insulating bush? I've not done it yet, but planning to machine a collet to hold the tread of the tyre?

 

[Nigelcliffe]

 

The plastic bush isn't capable of handling turning forces, so it has to be pushed out carefully if the wheel is held on the hub for turning.

 

When I've done this before, I've made a holder which has an axle which is a good sliding fit through the wheel (with the plastic bush removed), and a clamping plate to hold the wheel close to the rim.  Thus any forces are taken near the rim, rather than at the hub, so the chances of banana-shaped spokes (as the rim is dragged around relative to the hub) is reduced.  

 

The metal in the wheels isn't the nicest to machine, so go carefully.  Availability of spare wheels does reduce the risk of doing the work.  

 

The advantages of new steel tyres on wheels is that the wheels go back on their axles at near-enough the same front spacing as the original N-wheel settings. A re-profiled N wheel ends up further out along the axle (and potentially wobbly on the axle).  The new 2mm tyre results in a flange which is closer to the front face of the wheel, which is an improvement visually as well as mechanically compared to just thinning the N gauge flange.   

 

I've a couple of 03/04's to do in the near future, which use pretty much the same wheel construction in the loco.  

 

 

A variation on how to convert these would be to use new wheels.  The current stainless wheels might be too hard to drill out to take the plastic bush, but I've done it on the older brass centred wheels.  A 3D printed resin centre could be used, with a 2mm steel tyre, and the resin fitting directly onto the Farish axle.  

 

 

- Nigel

[Lacathedrale]

@Nigelcliffe I guess there really are a few ways to skin the cat.

 

The least destructive would appear to be to hold the tread in a collet and machine down the flange and rear face only, accepting the increased over-face width.  Failing that, pushing out the plastic bush (is there a known-good process to press it out - is it just a friction fit?) and mounting the old tyre on arbor for turning. Lastly, turning down the tyre as a bush to fit between the plastic and the society rim over the top. As a backstop, potentially drilling out a society wheel to fit the bush to.

 

Is that about right?

[John57sharp]

Does anybody have any thoughts on the of D-Limone for fixing chairs on Easitrac turnout bases?

 

I’ve had quite a few come adrift and I wonder if it’s maybe not suitable?

 

TIA

 

John

[Caley Jim]

I can't comment on its use for Easitrac, but I had problems with getting good bonding with it on styrene sheet, especially after it was a few years old.  I did find it helped to apply it to both surfaces, wait 30 seconds or so, then apply a further coat to one surface before bringing them together.  My usual technique of bringing the parts together then applying the solvent to the joint, allowing capillary action to draw it in, didn't work well at all.  I've given up on it and now use 'Plastic Weld'.

 

Jim

[Lacathedrale]

please ignore , I'm an idiot

Edited November 7, 2022 by Lacathedrale

[John57sharp]

22 hours ago, Caley Jim said:

I can't comment on its use for Easitrac, but I had problems with getting good bonding with it on styrene sheet, especially after it was a few years old.  I did find it helped to apply it to both surfaces, wait 30 seconds or so, then apply a further coat to one surface before bringing them together.  My usual technique of bringing the parts together then applying the solvent to the joint, allowing capillary action to draw it in, didn't work well at all.  I've given up on it and now use 'Plastic Weld'.

 

Jim

Thanks Jim

[Lacathedrale]

I'm fitting my very first automatic couplings, ever, with assocation DGs. I have a few small questions if that's OK?

1. Is the dropper on the DG Coupling meant to come back towards the wagon in a straight line when viewed from above (like a '9' on an old LCD clock) or towards the centreline?
2. How long should the steel/iron wire be? Right now when laying flat they reach just about to (and under) the near axle.
3. Should the tails of the lifting tongue be twisted fore and aft, or port/starboard? I have noticed in once instance the rear-bent tail is knocking against the PB wire pivot.
4. This is a very silly question - but is there any way to test the couplings other than with the use of a magnet under a track? I don't have a test track presently, so if so, I'll have to knock one up! 

 

 

[Nig H]

59 minutes ago, Lacathedrale said:

I'm fitting my very first automatic couplings, ever, with assocation DGs. I have a few small questions if that's OK?

1. Is the dropper on the DG Coupling meant to come back towards the wagon in a straight line when viewed from above (like a '9' on an old LCD clock) or towards the centreline?
2. How long should the steel/iron wire be? Right now when laying flat they reach just about to (and under) the near axle.
3. Should the tails of the lifting tongue be twisted fore and aft, or port/starboard? I have noticed in once instance the rear-bent tail is knocking against the PB wire pivot.
4. This is a very silly question - but is there any way to test the couplings other than with the use of a magnet under a track? I don't have a test track presently, so if so, I'll have to knock one up! 

 

 

There are some instructions on our Products page in Shop 2 - couplings. These should answer your queries. The length of the steel wire angled downwards needs to be short enough to end up above rail level when the loop is pointing upwards. I think you’ve answered 3. yourself.

You will find that making these couplings is a doddle after the first hundred or so.

 

Nig H

[bécasse]

1 hour ago, Lacathedrale said:

 

This is a very silly question - but is there any way to test the couplings other than with the use of a magnet under a track? I don't have a test track presently, so if so, I'll have to knock one up! 

 

 

Make up a short test "track" using two narrow-ish strips of 40 thou plastikard glued to length of timber (or w.h.y) with a 9,42 mm wide gap between them. Drill a suitable hole in the middle of the gap to mount the magnet. From experiments I strongly recommend the use of small cylinder magnets of around 6 mm ø and at least the same length, a quick search on eBay should reveal a cheap source in quantity. They are easily placed where you want them - just drill the appropriate diameter hole between the rails - and it is easy to adjust them to the optimum vertical position.

[John57sharp]

Which wheels are appropriate for the Association Presflo kit please? I can’t see any indication on the instructions.

 

TIA

 

John

[Matt.S.]

12 hours ago, John57sharp said:

Which wheels are appropriate for the Association Presflo kit please? I can’t see any indication on the instructions.

 

TIA

 

John

6mm dia, 12.25 axle - centres to suit. I've spotted disc and three hole.