RMweb Gold queensquare Posted August 7, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 7, 2020 Rummaging in one of my many boxes of bits I came across this, pretty sure it's Farish. Can anyone tell me what it's based on Jerry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
2mm Andy Posted August 7, 2020 Share Posted August 7, 2020 23 minutes ago, queensquare said: Rummaging in one of my many boxes of bits I came across this, pretty sure it's Farish. Can anyone tell me what it's based on Jerry A Great Northern Railway fish van apparently; https://www.igg.org.uk/gansg/10-avmod/am-grafar.htm Andy 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium nick_bastable Posted August 7, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 7, 2020 29 minutes ago, queensquare said: Rummaging in one of my many boxes of bits I came across this, pretty sure it's Farish. Can anyone tell me what it's based on Jerry https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/352686407489 Nick B 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold queensquare Posted August 7, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 7, 2020 Thanks gents, even I can't justify one of those at Bath! I will pop it in Steve 'Atsos' stash. Jerry 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Atso Posted August 7, 2020 Share Posted August 7, 2020 24 minutes ago, queensquare said: Thanks gents, even I can't justify one of those at Bath! I will pop it in Steve 'Atsos' stash. Jerry Thanks very much Jerry, I'm always on the lookout for ex-GN Fish vans! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium CF MRC Posted August 7, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 7, 2020 They are much improved by being filleted. An exercise undertaken by Matthew for our Flying Kipper train. Tim 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Kylestrome Posted August 7, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 7, 2020 4 minutes ago, CF MRC said: They are much improved by being filleted ... and smoked. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lacathedrale Posted August 8, 2020 Share Posted August 8, 2020 (edited) I have had a musing about a next layout which involves pre-group ballast-over-sleepers. Far from worrying about chairplates at this stage I'm wondering if it might be worth spacing sleepers out more widely. The SER (the company for which this theoretical layout is based on) left every tenth sleeper uncovered for inspection - that'd be a 50mm gap. Proably fine with Code 148 rail in O gauge but I'd have thought more of a problem in 2mm. Is there a 'known good' standard for widest sleeper spacing (for example in fiddle yards, etc.) that doesn't compromise strength and running quality? Edited August 9, 2020 by Lacathedrale Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold queensquare Posted August 8, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 8, 2020 On 07/08/2020 at 14:52, Kylestrome said: ... and smoked. ... in an appropriate jacket of course. Jerry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
-missy- Posted August 9, 2020 Share Posted August 9, 2020 Hi All. Has anyone any ideas on where I need to gap the sleepers on this thing for isolating the elastictrickery? Thanks Julia. 3 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bécasse Posted August 9, 2020 Share Posted August 9, 2020 (edited) Assuming that you are using the same supply for both broad and narrow gauge, the gaps, in rails as well as sleepers, need to be between the separate rails for the two gauges (which will electrically be as one) and the common rails. In other words, it is just like a normal point that happens to have two electrically common running rails one side. It would have been more complex had the narrow gauge split as well - and it would be a lot more complex if you wish to have separate supplies for the two gauges, best done by having common feeds which are switched according to which gauge is in use at any particular moment. Edited August 9, 2020 by bécasse Marked up image added 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
-missy- Posted August 9, 2020 Share Posted August 9, 2020 Thanks for the reply. I have indicated below what the dual gauges are. The narrow gauge is indicated in green and the standard gauge in red. Julia. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bécasse Posted August 9, 2020 Share Posted August 9, 2020 Sorry about that - too used to seeing mixed 3 foot/metre-standard track. Try this, you already have two out of the three necessary rail breaks, I have marked where you need the third. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valentin Posted August 9, 2020 Share Posted August 9, 2020 Hi Julia, How do you get the wood grain effect on the timbers? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold queensquare Posted August 9, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 9, 2020 8 hours ago, -missy- said: Thanks for the reply. I have indicated below what the dual gauges are. The narrow gauge is indicated in green and the standard gauge in red. Julia. I'm afraid that this bear of little brain cant help you with the electric trickery but that's a very nice bit of trackwork. Jerry 5 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted August 9, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 9, 2020 (edited) I was rather surprised by the first answer given. I was trying to see if I had misread it but remembered it was around 4mm gauge. It is indeed a lovely piece of trackwork. What rail have you you used Code 30? Don Edited August 9, 2020 by Donw typo 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
-missy- Posted August 10, 2020 Share Posted August 10, 2020 Thank you Don. It is code 40 track (with the etched chairs). It does mean I will need to work out how to transition from code 40 to code 30 at some point though. Julia. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lacathedrale Posted August 10, 2020 Share Posted August 10, 2020 Lovely stuff @-missy- - so delicate! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
-missy- Posted August 10, 2020 Share Posted August 10, 2020 (edited) 15 hours ago, Valentin said: Hi Julia, How do you get the wood grain effect on the timbers? Hi Valentin. I drag a coarse razor saw blade along the length of them. Julia. Edited August 10, 2020 by -missy- spelling 2 4 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted August 10, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 10, 2020 7 hours ago, -missy- said: Thank you Don. It is code 40 track (with the etched chairs). It does mean I will need to work out how to transition from code 40 to code 30 at some point though. Julia. Usually a bit of packing will do the job. Assuming the sleepers are the same thickness and using the same chairs a piece of 10thou under the code 30 will do the job. Obviously the sleepers will be a bit higher on the code 30 side. If for some reason that was going to be too visible the other option would be to file a taper on the end of the code 40 on the underside of the rail. It would only need and inch or so. Best to do both rails the same. The sleepers would all be at the same level then. If the head is a different width again just file a bit of taper on the outside head of the code 40. Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valentin Posted August 10, 2020 Share Posted August 10, 2020 12 hours ago, -missy- said: Thank you Don. It is code 40 track (with the etched chairs). It does mean I will need to work out how to transition from code 40 to code 30 at some point though. Julia. Why wouldn't you use code 40 everywhere, including the narrow gauge lines? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
-missy- Posted August 10, 2020 Share Posted August 10, 2020 1 hour ago, Valentin said: Why wouldn't you use code 40 everywhere, including the narrow gauge lines? It's a good point Valentin. I just thought that 4mm gauge in code 40 would look a bit too 'chunky', that's all. Julia. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger.s Posted August 10, 2020 Share Posted August 10, 2020 6 hours ago, Donw said: Usually a bit of packing will do the job. Assuming the sleepers are the same thickness and using the same chairs a piece of 10thou under the code 30 will do the job. Obviously the sleepers will be a bit higher on the code 30 side. If for some reason that was going to be too visible the other option would be to file a taper on the end of the code 40 on the underside of the rail. It would only need and inch or so. Best to do both rails the same. The sleepers would all be at the same level then. If the head is a different width again just file a bit of taper on the outside head of the code 40. Don If this were full size then the platelayers would have the same problem. They would pack the NG rail-head to be level with the mixed gage rail-head making the NG sleepers higher than the standard/mixed gauge sleepers. So the sleepers would look wrong if they were at the same height. They would also use special fishplates rather than cut a taper in the rail. Regards Roger 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
John57sharp Posted August 11, 2020 Share Posted August 11, 2020 Any advice or pointers please for using 2 Easitrac pegged B6 turnouts as a crossover? I’m guessing build them together as a unit, but I’m wondering if the standard 22.4mm between centre lines would have to be widened, or is there some overlap to trim out? TIA John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valentin Posted August 11, 2020 Share Posted August 11, 2020 (edited) 20 hours ago, -missy- said: It's a good point Valentin. I just thought that 4mm gauge in code 40 would look a bit too 'chunky', that's all. Julia. Hi Julia, I used code 30 for the metre gauge test oval and point I built and it looks very good, especially after I weathered the rails. The track is not yet ballasted, maybe it will look even better after ballasting. I would assume that after ballasting and weathering, code 40 will look as good as code 30. As I already have roller gauges for code 40 with the rails spaced at 5mm, I would use code 40 for my future project of a 2'6" narrow gauge based in Eastern Europe. What size are the timbers you're using for the plain track? The ones in the shop are 1.3 mm wide, 12 mm long and 0.85 mm thick - not very prototypical for a 2' or 2'6" narrow gauge line; they could be improved by shortening and ballasting, but how would one deal with them being too wide? Edited August 11, 2020 by Valentin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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