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steve fay
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A new kit is here, the Scorpio 97xx pannier. I'm still getting together some nice replacement castings to tart it up.

Wheels & motor and it can go to Ken ( jazz ) for building

 

Hi Steve, Just been reading Ken's notes on 97xx build. A quality build as allways. What motor/gearbox did you get for it? I went for an ABC box with Canon motor for my 57xx and will be doing ghetto same for the 51xx. Excellent units.

Cheers, Peter.

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I went for a Ron Chaplin gear box, it's a combined unit with the motor I forget which one now.

I'm very pleased with the 97 so far Ken always does a top job. I think spending a few pounds extra on better castings was worth it as it improves the appearance. The most noticeable things like chimney, safety valve bonnet, whistles & shield & buffers

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Steve

I've been following this for some time now, it is all great work!

I am starting on my first serious attempt at a 7mm layout and would ask if you could list in order your method of finishing your track as it is superb

I also know that it is handbuilt which adds greatly to the realism,but for now I will stick with peco. Do I paint the rail sides before ballasting ,rattle cans or airbrush ??

If you could list your method in order It would be a great help to me

Thanks

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I went for a Ron Chaplin gear box, it's a combined unit with the motor I forget which one now.

I'm very pleased with the 97 so far Ken always does a top job. I think spending a few pounds extra on better castings was worth it as it improves the appearance. The most noticeable things like chimney, safety valve bonnet, whistles & shield & buffers

Hi Steve, is Ron Chaplin still trading or is it one you had in stock?

I don't know what the originals parts were like, but the replacements do look the business. I've replaced the buffers and smokebox dart on the 51xx with better items from Hobbyhorse, and also bought some additional parts not included. If you can improve the appearance of the finished model it's always worth the bit of extra investment if you can afford it.

 

Great work on the layout by the way.

Cheers, Peter

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The track around Ranelagh bridge was very dirty and I've tried to copy that, I used JLTRT track dirt in a spray can which is superb this is after ballasting, I then use rail match track dirt sprayed at a low angle to catch the rail sides. Certain areas I brush in MIG rust weathering powders around the chairs.

The Jltrt track dirt can also be sprayed down the centre of the track for that oily finish as the nozzle is very controllable.

I've then added another thin shoulder of ballast which is a lot cleaner you could lay it first and use some masking tape to cover it, I just didn't have any to hand!! Again this seemed to be a common theme around Ranelagh Bridge.

If there's any other areas you want the specifics for please ask.

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Class 27

 

If sticking with Peco, you might try respacing the sleepers. It requires nothing more than a Stanley knife and patience....

 

Unlike the bolt pattern of the chairs, this is something that shows from three or four feet away, and makes a noticeable difference to the appearance of the track.

 

From 2 feet away, cosmetic fishplates also add something, particularly if they are properly greased. If you are not using prototype length track panels, get som C&L plastic fishplates and cut the central web away to make two single plates & apply with cyano. Or use some microstrip and poke 4 "rivets" into it.

 

HTH

Simon

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Steve

Don't worry about hijacking it's no problem at all, I agree about the sleeper spacing I've just done a load of Peco flat bottom to C&L spacing it does make a big difference. I'm about to lay some on my Severn tunnel east project ( main Line micros ) see separate thread.

Steve

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Good question I always did but I've been told it's Ran lee bridge! I'm not 100% though

Falcon is very nice another good job by Heljan. I prefer the green but the original livery is more appropriate for this layout

Just asked a friend who was at Old Oak in the '80s. He came back with 'Ran Lee'.

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