StuartM Posted August 10, 2011 Author Share Posted August 10, 2011 The station end of the depot now has a completed bridge The rear retaining wall is in the process of being painted The signing on point/welfare building is also coming along The safety fence outside the signing on point is another item from the bits box which has has a reprieve and is waiting painting Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
StuartM Posted August 10, 2011 Author Share Posted August 10, 2011 Another couple of photos The bridge has been built to be detachable for maintenance purposes and should I want to extend the diorama when the competition has ended. The long gap between the upper and lower sections was a length of 5mm ply but I've removed this so the upper level will have a cleaner finish once the retaining wall is built. So much still to do, so little time Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium nick_bastable Posted August 11, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 11, 2011 how reliable are you finding the servo arms running in a slot ? I assume there is no fixed mechanical linkage? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
StuartM Posted August 11, 2011 Author Share Posted August 11, 2011 how reliable are you finding the servo arms running in a slot ? I assume there is no fixed mechanical linkage? Correct, the servo arm is not attached to the switch mechanism in any way. The switch mechanism is a square tube within another square tube and because the whole switching mechanism is screwed to the baseboard I've found that it provides a very stable, robust and reliable way of moving the switch blades. The servo arm moves free of this mechanism but pushes up against the side of the slot which in turn pushes the switching arm one way or another. I've found that as long as a couple of basic principles are observed this works very well and is much easier to set up than if the servo arm is fixed to the switching mechanism. The principles that must be observed are...... Position the mechanism so that it switches the blades with the least amount of resistance. Position the mechanism so that the slot in the switching arm is 2mm proud of the outer tube when the mechanism is fully extended in the far position, (if that makes sense) This is my first attempt at anything like this, so all I can tell you is that it works very reliably "so far". Ask me again in a years time and I'll be able to tell you if it remains reliable Rgds, Stuart Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
StuartM Posted August 12, 2011 Author Share Posted August 12, 2011 The opposite end of the diorama with a mirror placed up against the rear of the depot which doubles the length of the depot visually I'm not sure what I'm going to do with this end yet so this is just me playing around with ideas while I try and work out what to do next I want to get the retaining wall in between the upper and lower levels done but in order to do this I need the depot end done so I have something to butt up to. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weekday Cross Posted August 12, 2011 Share Posted August 12, 2011 The mirror is a nice idea - shades of John Allen's historic Gorre & Daphetid layout - I can't imagine a conventional backscene having the same effect! The weathering looks good too! Keep up the good work Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
StuartM Posted August 13, 2011 Author Share Posted August 13, 2011 Some more playing around at the far end to see what works and what doesn't. This time the end of the depot and the mirror are hidden under another overbridge which I quite like although I'm still not completely convinced Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold bcnPete Posted August 14, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 14, 2011 Nice work Stuart Not so sure about the other overbridge myself - would have been difficult to build that roof beneath it...plus the rooflights are a bit redundant. Personally, I thought it looked better with just the one bridge and the mirror/shed the other side. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rods_of_Revolution Posted August 14, 2011 Share Posted August 14, 2011 It's coming along nicely Stuart! I always think weathering really brings all the elements of a layout together seemlessly. Nice work Stuart Not so sure about the other overbridge myself - would have been difficult to build that roof beneath it...plus the rooflights are a bit redundant. Personally, I thought it looked better with just the one bridge and the mirror/shed the other side. It could be possible that the overbridge was built after the shed, perhaps carrying an additional chord line or something. There must be a prototype for it somewhere I'm sure. Kindest Regards, Jack Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
StuartM Posted August 14, 2011 Author Share Posted August 14, 2011 It's coming along nicely Stuart! I always think weathering really brings all the elements of a layout together seemlessly. It could be possible that the overbridge was built after the shed, perhaps carrying an additional chord line or something. There must be a prototype for it somewhere I'm sure. Kindest Regards, Jack Thanks Jack you are of course right, If you look around the London termini there is so much infill, but I did think what would the bridge be used for, if it was for pedestrians then doubtless people would throw things off the bridge to break the windows and then I remembered that it was only a model and perhaps I was getting a bit to immersed in its creation, but then isn't that what "playing trains" is all about, using ones imagination. However I think I agree with BcnPete, it's alright but not quite right somehow. What I originally wanted to do was have a retaining wall with tunnel mouth but as shown in a previous post on page 3 the only pre-formed tunnel mouth is so out of scale that it would just jar on the eye. The mirror does look good but it then makes the diorama fixed in that I wouldn't be able to extend the track in the lower section after the competition is over. My current thinking is to either have a retaining wall at the rear of the depot and then another short bridge spanning the lower tracks (which in mock up looks quite good) or and I'm really trying to resist the urge on this one is to follow Moorswater Viaduct's lead and hand stick individual bricks in the form of a tunnel arch onto a sheet of something or another which can then be cut into a sheet of plastic brick sheet but I think this option might be a fast track to madness Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weekday Cross Posted August 14, 2011 Share Posted August 14, 2011 You could always make the mirror a temporary solution, just for the Challenge - and then do something more complex when you extend it. That way, you would have far more room to do something more impressive that fits in with the whole layout. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
StuartM Posted August 14, 2011 Author Share Posted August 14, 2011 You could always make the mirror a temporary solution, just for the Challenge - and then do something more complex when you extend it. That way, you would have far more room to do something more impressive that fits in with the whole layout. I could do and this has crossed my mind, however the one major flaw with using a mirror is that you get a join where the model butts up against the reflection which is due to the construction of the mirror because the reflective surface is 2mm behind a sheet of glass and there is nothing that can be done to over come this. I've found from previous experience that the best thing to do is disguise the mirror if possible by placing it under a bridge as the join is then not so obvious. In the attached photo from another even smaller diorama I made last year there are only 3 parcels vans but the mirror creates the illusion of a longer train and because the mirror is hidden at the back of the bridge the join is hidden, so I think this is probably the what I'm going to do with this diorama Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold bcnPete Posted August 14, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 14, 2011 In the attached photo from another even smaller diorama I made last year I think that works really well. Perhaps if the overbridge was different to the other one...I think I was trying to suggest something a little more asymmetrical which always looks more interesting... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
StuartM Posted August 14, 2011 Author Share Posted August 14, 2011 I think that works really well. Perhaps if the overbridge was different to the other one...I think I was trying to suggest something a little more asymmetrical which always looks more interesting... Cheers, already on the case, watch this space Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
StuartM Posted August 14, 2011 Author Share Posted August 14, 2011 I finally decided what to do at the far end, nothing particularly original but I think it works. I just need to add coping stones then paint, weather and fix etc and then the structure is all but done, then onto the lower level track Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
StuartM Posted August 16, 2011 Author Share Posted August 16, 2011 A bit of a hiccup for me in that I've damaged my right hand and have limited movement at the moment, Dr reckons it's probably just a sprain but has sent me for an x-ray tomorrow, all of which is a right pain, I don't mind the time off work because I can't handle my work tools but it also means that I'm struggling to handle my modelling tools as well. On a brighter note, while the retaining walls are drying, I've started on the tedious task of building the track for the lower section. I don't mind sticking the sleepers down or even soldering each sleeper to each rail, it's the soldering the chairs that I find really boring. Hopefully I can get this over and done with as movement comes back to my fingers Below a couple more photos of progress this time from the other end. When the last of the retaining walls have been put in place this view will be inaccessible unless your 10mm high and made from plastic Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter & Seth Posted August 16, 2011 Share Posted August 16, 2011 Hi Stuart, I've really enjoyed reading your progress on this layout. So many points of inspiration and ideas for my own layout (a 4' x 1' n-gauge diesel depot with cunning "preservation society" shed as an excuse to run just about any stock). Nice to see someone else doing some radical point switching with micro-servos. I've just ordered 10 for my layout And lovely work on the scratch-built shed. One question, if you don't mind my asking: what did you use for ballast? It looks particularly fine (to be expected for a 2FS model I suppose!) Regards, Peter & Seth Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
StuartM Posted August 16, 2011 Author Share Posted August 16, 2011 Hi Stuart, I've really enjoyed reading your progress on this layout. So many points of inspiration and ideas for my own layout (a 4' x 1' n-gauge diesel depot with cunning "preservation society" shed as an excuse to run just about any stock). Nice to see someone else doing some radical point switching with micro-servos. I've just ordered 10 for my layout And lovely work on the scratch-built shed. One question, if you don't mind my asking: what did you use for ballast? It looks particularly fine (to be expected for a 2FS model I suppose!) Regards, Peter & Seth Hi Pete & Seth, I'm glad your enjoying watching the construction process and that you've found parts of it inspiring. good luck with the servos, what are you going to use to control them ? The ballast was a home made mixture of..... 50% ready mix concrete put through a fine sieve and 50% very fine dry white sand, ( I live on an island so no problem there for me but I believe aquarium sand does the same thing) I mixed the two together and then used 50/50 pva/water to glue the mixture down and then when dry I sprayed it with a mixture of matt black, frame dirt and sleeper grime. I hope that helps and good luck with the ngauge model, I hope to see it in the journal one day Rgds, StuartM Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold bcnPete Posted August 17, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 17, 2011 it's the soldering the chairs that I find really boring. Why not use easitrac for this lower section? Hope your hand gets on the mend soon... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted August 17, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 17, 2011 I can understand soldering the track, but soldering chairs ? in 2mm ?!? Stunning ! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
StuartM Posted August 17, 2011 Author Share Posted August 17, 2011 I can understand soldering the track, but soldering chairs ? in 2mm ?!? Stunning ! I don't know about stunning, more like boring, but it does look much better than just soldering the rail to the sleeper I'll try and post a photo later today Rgds, Stuart Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
StuartM Posted August 17, 2011 Author Share Posted August 17, 2011 Why not use easitrac for this lower section? Hope your hand gets on the mend soon... I'm not sure the easytrack sprues would get to me in time and they do work out quite expensive. Besides as a beginner in 2mm I don't think I've finished my track building apprenticeship yet so the practice will do me good . Rgds, Stuart Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
StuartM Posted August 17, 2011 Author Share Posted August 17, 2011 Pete, Regards your Easitrac idea I always thought the Easitrac sprues were quite expensive but having just visited the 2mm website and checked the prices at £4.50 for 1.2 meters I can't really complain, It's just a case of whether they would arrive in time so I've emailed the shop keeper to see how soon a pack or two could be dispatched Rgds, Stuart Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Kris Posted August 17, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 17, 2011 When easitrac was first introduced it was cheaper to go down the soldered chair route but since the price reduction there is no contest, and the difference in price between easitrac and plan solder to pcb sleeper in small enough that for me building a fiddle yard out of easitrac makes a lot of sense. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
StuartM Posted August 17, 2011 Author Share Posted August 17, 2011 When easitrac was first introduced it was cheaper to go down the soldered chair route but since the price reduction there is no contest, and the difference in price between easitrac and plan solder to pcb sleeper in small enough that for me building a fiddle yard out of easitrac makes a lot of sense. Hi kris, On second viewing I think your probably right, It's just a case of how soon the item could be dispatched Rgds, StuartM Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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