jim.snowdon Posted January 9, 2017 Share Posted January 9, 2017 Thanks Jim! and one more question if anyone knows - if the Q1 is in forward gear are the lifting links to the expansion links raised or lowered? Regards Tony Tony, By applying the same logic of extrapolating from the Q, I would expect the links to be lowered. Checking videos of the Bluebell's Q, the reverser is in the forward position for forward movement, and from the location of the reversing shaft, it seems a fair deduction that the crank that carries the expansion links is ahead of the shaft. I can't see any reason for that part of the Q1 valve gear to be any different. The rocking levers introduce a reversal into the valve motion, but so does the use of the outside admission valves, so those cancel out. Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Holt Posted January 9, 2017 Share Posted January 9, 2017 Hi Tony. I presume that the large, triangular structure on top of the chassis is a motor mount intended to drive the centre axle. Obviously, with a working crank axle and valve-gear, you will have to drive onto the rear axle. Will the existing mount be removed at some stage, or is there some magical way round this issue? Dave. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Isambarduk Posted January 9, 2017 Share Posted January 9, 2017 "I presume that the large, triangular structure on top of the chassis is a motor mount intended to drive the centre axle." It looks to me as if it's intended to hold the motor/gearbox to drive the rear axle? David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim.snowdon Posted January 9, 2017 Share Posted January 9, 2017 "I presume that the large, triangular structure on top of the chassis is a motor mount intended to drive the centre axle." It looks to me as if it's intended to hold the motor/gearbox to drive the rear axle? David The kit is probably designed not only for the drive to be on the rear axle but also around a specific ABC motor/gearbox combination. That's certainly the case on the BR standard that I have (and have yet to build). Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Funtleyworks Posted January 14, 2017 Share Posted January 14, 2017 Hey Tony, hopefully this will be of use to you! http://www.bulleidlocos.org.uk/_q1/q1ValveGear.aspx Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted January 14, 2017 Share Posted January 14, 2017 Hey Tony, hopefully this will be of use to you! http://www.bulleidlocos.org.uk/_q1/q1ValveGear.aspx Already mentioned in post 1014 earlier ..... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim.snowdon Posted January 14, 2017 Share Posted January 14, 2017 Already mentioned in post 1014 earlier ..... I suppose that will make it doubly useful...... Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted January 15, 2017 Author Share Posted January 15, 2017 Thanks Guys - Yes, I've already been to that site and printed out what I need! Dave / Jim - yes the kit is designed for the Portescap inline motor/gearbox or the ABC equivalent. I've put the motor unit in place to demonstrate. The chassis is pretty well complete now, just the lubricator and a few other minor details to add. The AWS tank is made from tube, with two turned down brass buffers to make the ends! Regards Tony 12 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted January 20, 2017 Author Share Posted January 20, 2017 So - moving along nicely now adding detail to the body. The cladding is very thin and Dave advises gluing for some of the components. I prefer to solder, so handrails and other small detail is added with 100 degree solder. You can't see it from here, but the huge chimney sits on top of the smokebox with a void underneath, so I've added the petticoat to give it a bit more solidity - of course you can't see it from this angle. I've scratched up the little lateral tank in front of the cab - again a turned down screw forms the end plate. The AWS conduit is added that will join by a tiny piece of tube to the continuation on the chassis. Someone mentioned about filing off the tabs at the extreme edges of the cladding without damaging the etched rivets, basically I use the end of a file held in place to form a 'fence', then use a flat file with a safe edge to file off the remains of the tab. I was working out how to separate the pipes from the atomisers that drop down to the lubricator. They will solder in place from the body on the underside of the smokebox and the loose ends sticking up from the lubricator will just poke up behind them. Hope fully that will give an illusion of a join.. I spend a lot of time at the workbench and folks that remember my BRM articles will recall my blues music tributes. I'm a bit more Radio 4 and 4 Extra these days, and I've been enjoying GF Newmans 'The Corrupted' with Toby Jones through this build - excellent. http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/b087psl5 It just remains to finish those lubricator pipes and then on to the tender... 13 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAD Posted January 20, 2017 Share Posted January 20, 2017 Ugly prototype but beautifully built! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Holt Posted January 22, 2017 Share Posted January 22, 2017 Ugly prototype but beautifully built! I'll second that. I must say I've really enjoyed all your builds, especially the Flying Pigs, and find your work very inspiring. Unfortunately, modelling in 4 mm scale, I just don't have access to the quality of after-market replacement parts you have in 7 mm, so some of the detail has to be suggested rather than accurately portrayed. I sympathise with the dilemma about how to split piping runs that pass between chassis and body, especially on such an austere loco with no running plate or solid foot-steps to hide stuff. On my nearly completed Caprotti Black 5, some of the pipework is attached to the footplate/cab structure and some on a separate mounting plate under the chassis keeper plate. I think I've succeeded in disguising the joints in the pipes but assembly is complicated and has to be done in the right sequence for it all to fit together. Looking forward to seeing further progress with this and future builds. Dave. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted January 23, 2017 Author Share Posted January 23, 2017 Thanks chaps - I'm very lucky in that I enjoy do this for a living. There is a bit of showing off of course, but the greatest pleasure comes from inspiring and helping other people be creative. I still get people come up and mention my magazine articles, that's very fulfilling. Anything to get folks making things, making stuff is so satisfying. I remember in 4mm, there were the likes of Ron Chaplin ( 9F manifold and bits ) and Stelfox ( B1 cylinders )for extra parts, well before the internet. You had to send off a cheque or postal order for your order - how quaint! Regards Tony 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted January 26, 2017 Author Share Posted January 26, 2017 The tender body builds up as a skeleton in the usual MOK style. The sides are full thickness, so folding bars and rolling bars were required to get that lovely curved shape. The formers won't pull it round on their own. It all fits... 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted January 29, 2017 Author Share Posted January 29, 2017 A strange omission from the kit is the fire iron tunnel extension in to the rear platform, anyway that was easily scratched up. I also added the two vertical strips either side of the water treatment filler. I don't they all had this, but it adds an interesting feature. So, nearly done, just the inner chassis to make up today. 13 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted January 31, 2017 Author Share Posted January 31, 2017 The backhead was made up in a day, I prefer to paint the main casting first, then add detail. just need to detail paint it and add dials of some sort.. And that's about as much as I can do until I get some decent weather for painting. After a workshop tidy up, its an inspection of the next project:- 12 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Hilux5972 Posted January 31, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 31, 2017 I look forward to seeing that County progress Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted January 31, 2017 Share Posted January 31, 2017 Ah county one of my favourites 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted January 31, 2017 Share Posted January 31, 2017 Ah county one of my favourites Ditto, Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted February 1, 2017 Share Posted February 1, 2017 Ah county one of my favourites Much neglected in 4mm scale. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted February 2, 2017 Author Share Posted February 2, 2017 Years ago I did think of doing one in 4mm scale for Charwelton, though they were quite rare on the GC. I don't recall seeing many models of them in 7mm scale. A few hours work and I'm making good progress, so I've quickly got something that looks like a loco!The etched parts fit together very nicely - I think the kit it was designed by Malcolm Mitchell. 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted February 2, 2017 Share Posted February 2, 2017 I like counties too, although I never have seen one. Just remind me though...what does a Q1 and a Conty have to do with your Derby line? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted February 2, 2017 Share Posted February 2, 2017 ... think the kit it was designed by Malcolm Mitchell. P1040248.JPG There never was a Hawksworth "County" in Malcolm's original 4mm and 7mm ranges. That only happened long after he sold them to Pete Waterman. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted February 2, 2017 Author Share Posted February 2, 2017 Both commissions Jeff. Horsetan - when I spoke to Laurie, Malcolm had been involved in the original design of the kit, the incomplete design went over with the rest of the range to Pete as I understand it. It was completed later.. Regards Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted February 2, 2017 Share Posted February 2, 2017 ....Horsetan - when I spoke to Laurie, Malcolm had been involved in the original design of the kit, the incomplete design went over with the rest of the range to Pete as I understand it. It was completed later.. Yes, I meant that when Malcolm was running things, there was no "County" in either scale. When the range was sold, there was still no "County". (The artwork for the 4mm "Manor" body was, however, lost as far as I understand it, and David Geen told me that it had not been in the documentation passed to him when he took over the 4mm range.) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted February 2, 2017 Share Posted February 2, 2017 My County was a JM models kit with a JLTRT resin boiler unit. It fitted perfectly! Regards Sandy 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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