dibateg Posted December 13, 2016 Author Share Posted December 13, 2016 80016 is back with it's excellent paint job from Warren Heywood. It's been a mildly stressful couple of days putting her back together without marking anything.. Glazing fitted, decoder fitted and we are ready for a test run tomorrow on Heyside.. Then final tidying can be done and off she'll go to Martyn Welch. 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Holt Posted December 14, 2016 Share Posted December 14, 2016 A super looking model. I'm not sure about the black valve gear, though. Dave. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim.snowdon Posted December 14, 2016 Share Posted December 14, 2016 Granted, the motion shouldn't necessarily be black, but equally, it should be polished clean either, other than by exception (or if your modelling period coincides with cleaners being plentiful and cheap, which effectively means pre-1939). Motion still had to be protected against corrosion and from pictures does appear to have been greased/oiled as well as being allowed to collect the usual grime of railway operation anyway. Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted December 14, 2016 Share Posted December 14, 2016 I wouldn't for one moment expect Tony to leave the valve gear painted black, he is probably warming up the airbrush as we speak.... Martyn. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
warren haywood Posted December 14, 2016 Share Posted December 14, 2016 I can answer that, the loco was supplied for painting without wheels or rods. The cylinders are on so these were painted gloss black and the rest of the chasis a dirty dark grey brown. The valve gear was on and as this model is the be weathered I didn't bother with masking or scraping so they are in the same dirty colour as the rest of the chasis. Once Martyn has worked his magic they will look like dirty oily rods 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted December 15, 2016 Author Share Posted December 15, 2016 Thanks Warren - 80016 had a very successful test run on Heyside and a lot of that is down to the design of the kit. Pony and bogie behaved themselves and there was no adjusting or tweaking required. Without weathering the loco looks a little stark to me, hopefully I shall see the results of Martyn's work on it at some stage. 17 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted December 15, 2016 Share Posted December 15, 2016 I think a photo of a newly painted model is hard to get right, the light just doesn't emulate sunlight, or the overcast we call daylight in the UK, resulting in odd lighting effects which wouldn't occur on an ex-works real one. once toned down with even a little weathering, the results are much different...all IMHO, of course. Still a superb bit of modelling and painting. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deano747 Posted December 16, 2016 Share Posted December 16, 2016 A beautiful job on what is one of my favourite locomotives!! Regards, Deano. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dikitriki Posted December 16, 2016 Share Posted December 16, 2016 Here's another pic of 80016 Richard 13 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted December 22, 2016 Author Share Posted December 22, 2016 Back to the loco building, the tender is almost complete. I managed to do most of the soldering from the inside, but the hopper had to be done from the top. We can't always do it how we would like. I any case, the tender will have coal in it and the real thing by 1962 would be pretty corroded. I used Griffin lamp irons, I always feel they are more robust than etched ones. I would also like to wish all those that enjoy this thread a Happy Christmas and a prosperous and fulfilling year of modelling in 2017. Here is a Xmas card! Regards Tony 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted December 31, 2016 Author Share Posted December 31, 2016 Post track test, there is just a few tidying up jobs to do on the V2. Some work was required on the cartazzi to improve the amount of swing. Turning off the projecting bosses on the wheels in the lathe for one thing. So she will be off to Warren Heywood in January for painting. And the tender, both won't fit on my mini studio! For the New Year - the MOK Q1, I've been perusing the instructions and parts today... 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted January 3, 2017 Author Share Posted January 3, 2017 And we're off, the usual gratuitous etching photo. This one will have fully working inside motion, so I've got to stage with the frames just held by the tabs to work out how to graft in the Griffin motion. The first bit with the indirect linkage is there, using bits from the kit and Griffin. Next job is to get the crank axle to fit between the hornblocks..... 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted January 3, 2017 Share Posted January 3, 2017 Where is the clicky for "Oh wow!!!" ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted January 3, 2017 Share Posted January 3, 2017 ....This one will have fully working inside motion, so I've got to stage with the frames just held by the tabs to work out how to graft in the Griffin motion. The first bit with the indirect linkage is there, using bits from the kit and Griffin. Next job is to get the crank axle to fit between the hornblocks..... You may find this useful 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted January 4, 2017 Author Share Posted January 4, 2017 (edited) Thank Serron, Horsetan, that is very useful. Regards Tony Edited January 4, 2017 by dibateg Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted January 4, 2017 Share Posted January 4, 2017 Thank Serron, Horsetan, that is very useful..... It's just that, when you mentioned fully-working inside motion (which I'm always a sucker for), I knew instantly where to find a write-up..... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Country Mon Posted January 6, 2017 Share Posted January 6, 2017 Wow the etches are a work of art. So too is the assembly incredibly neat work, real craftsmanship. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted January 7, 2017 Author Share Posted January 7, 2017 The Griffin inside con rods have the marine type big ends. I wanted to create something a little more representational, yet still practical to install and maintain. I experimented making up big ends from thick sheet brass, but my engineering skills ( I blame the equipment ) failed me. So after some hefty filing of the castings I came up with this, it's a little scrappy but most of it won't be seen. It can also be taken down as a 16BA bolt will hold it together. There should be two at 90 degrees of course, but this will have to do for the sake of practicality and time. More hefty filing produces the cranks, which are drilled and pinned to the axles. The eccentric sheaves are blackend to prevent the solder spreading. Then add 'No Nonsense flux', solder paste and a Nimrod gas torch and hey presto! It always gets interesting going off piste, I had effectively shortened the con rods by modifying the big ends. So this temporary lash up is to check if it will all fit/work. I had to extend them by filing a spigot on the end and adding some rectangular box brass section. Todays job ( if I can resist having a fiddle with my Dapol 08 - yes I've rolled over and gone on trend ) is to fit the rest of the valve gear and see if it can all be made removable... 4 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted January 7, 2017 Share Posted January 7, 2017 Oh yummy! Really have to admire your skill. Now when are you going to show me how to stick my MOK 9F together? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted January 7, 2017 Share Posted January 7, 2017 When doing the inside valve gear, how do you ensure it will be in the right place when the coupling rods are, if you see what I mean? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted January 7, 2017 Author Share Posted January 7, 2017 David - I have an MOK 9F to do in my list, but it will be a while yet - 2018 perhaps.. Jeff - the eccentric sheaves and cranks are drilled to take an alignment pin, so that is quite straightforward. What the relationship is between the outside connecting rods and the cranks is, I'm not sure. I have to confess my ignorance. Maybe someone can enlighten me! Regards Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted January 7, 2017 Share Posted January 7, 2017 When doing the inside valve gear, how do you ensure it will be in the right place when the coupling rods are, if you see what I mean? Now that is a really good question. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim.snowdon Posted January 7, 2017 Share Posted January 7, 2017 David - I have an MOK 9F to do in my list, but it will be a while yet - 2018 perhaps.. Jeff - the eccentric sheaves and cranks are drilled to take an alignment pin, so that is quite straightforward. What the relationship is between the outside connecting rods and the cranks is, I'm not sure. I have to confess my ignorance. Maybe someone can enlighten me! Regards Tony Tony, Since the derivation of the Q1 was to take the Q chassis and put on as big a boiler as could be got on within the gauge and loading limits, the relationship between the inside and outside cranks probably didn't change. Looking at pictures of the Q, the balance weight is nominally on the same side as the crank, indicating that the inside crank is set at 180 degrees to the outside, so that the coupling rods and crank boss balance the inside cranks and connecting rod, The fact that the balance weight has an angular offset will be to do with a combination of balancing the reciprocating masses and the inclination of the cylinders. The fact that the Bluebell have a Q turned out to be useful as there are currently pictures of its stripped down bits on the internet, including an end on view of the driving wheelset. that conformed the 180 degree relationship. Further confirmation that the Q1 follows the same rules comes by way of pictures of the preserved one, where at some time BR added balance weights to the wheels, plating in part of the BFB's waffle centre in the process. Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted January 8, 2017 Author Share Posted January 8, 2017 Thanks Jim! and one more question if anyone knows - if the Q1 is in forward gear are the lifting links to the expansion links raised or lowered? Regards Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted January 9, 2017 Author Share Posted January 9, 2017 Back on piste, and it doesn't take long to make progress and the cycle is cut out bits from fret, clean up, solder in place, rinse, clean up.......cut out bits from fret... I had to rework the upper motion as the lower ends of the rockers wouldn't fit between the slidebars. The forked link that links the upper and lower motion is tapped 12 BA so that the expansion links can be disconnected and crank axle and attached bits can be taken down. It will mean making the front sandboxes removable, but that's not a big problem. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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