dibateg Posted November 18, 2016 Author Share Posted November 18, 2016 It has reverted to just inner frame now... 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard i Posted November 18, 2016 Share Posted November 18, 2016 It has reverted to just inner frame now...P1040101a.jpg Spoil sport Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Boucher Posted November 21, 2016 Share Posted November 21, 2016 It has reverted to just inner frame now... P1040101a.jpg Question: How do you cut off that "outer frame" footplate jig? Jewelers saw and a lot of careful filing? Or is there some clever trick? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted November 23, 2016 Author Share Posted November 23, 2016 I've been offline for a few days, no heating, land line or internet - back to the dark ages.. I couldn't face the struggle with 6 laminations to make up the slidebars, so I ended up using a Ragstone upper slidebar with a modified DJH 9F crosshead with 1mm square NS section for the lower slidebars. I did use the splash sheilds from the kit. Yep - I filed the wrong side of one of the valve guides. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted November 23, 2016 Author Share Posted November 23, 2016 I persevered with the spring laminations and they came out ok. The brake gear is all etched. Given the choice I'd prefer cast components, but it all fits and will only really be seen in silhouette on a working loco in any case. Home made pick ups.. 7 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Boucher Posted November 23, 2016 Share Posted November 23, 2016 P8070063.JPGHello Mike. The attachment shows one of two 4mm. Finney A3's I built some years ago. This one, alas, in for drastic surgery after being dropped. (and the chimney is none of my doing!) However even in 4mm you can easily cut off the footplate support jig by carefully using a carbo disc in a Dremel or similar tool and then finishing with good quality needle files and emery. Patience is the order of the day! (I use them to tone my fishing hooks also) Regards. Serron. Gotta admit that I would be incredibly nervous using a high speed spinning cutting disk. Maybe I don't have enough control, or I'm using them wrong, but they almost always seem to grab somewhere, pushing it across whatever I'm trying to cut, which invariably ruins the surface somewhere... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Holt Posted November 23, 2016 Share Posted November 23, 2016 (edited) Gotta admit that I would be incredibly nervous using a high speed spinning cutting disk. Maybe I don't have enough control, or I'm using them wrong, but they almost always seem to grab somewhere, pushing it across whatever I'm trying to cut, which invariably ruins the surface somewhere... A fret saw is just as good; just a bit more laborious and you might need to twist the blade in the frame for such a long cut. Dave. Edited November 23, 2016 by Dave Holt 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shedrail Posted November 23, 2016 Share Posted November 23, 2016 I've been offline for a few days, no heating, land line or internet - back to the dark ages.. I couldn't face the struggle with 6 laminations to make up the slidebars, so I ended up using a Ragstone upper slidebar with a modified DJH 9F crosshead with 1mm square NS section for the lower slidebars. I did use the splash sheilds from the kit. Yep - I filed the wrong side of one of the valve guides. P1040112a.jpg A good decision replacing the laminated slide bars, I used them and it was a nightmare trying to file the slot for the crosshead. Just building a David Andrews A3 using his slide bar arrangement which works very well and is much easier to fit. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted November 23, 2016 Share Posted November 23, 2016 (edited) The thing about the laminated slidebars is that they provide a positive placement in both the front and rear of the cylinder and that sets the angle perfectly. Edited November 24, 2016 by JeffP Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted November 24, 2016 Author Share Posted November 24, 2016 I shall report back and suggest a casting to replace the laminated slidebars. I couldn't work out how I could clean up and polish the crosshead slot. Too much work, too difficult. Setting the angle is good, but I've had to do that on so many builds in the past, where the slidebars just mount on the back of the cylinders, you just make sure it all lines up properly. Cutting with a disk - fastest speed possible, make sure the work piece cannot move and a firm grip. Cut well back from were you need it and clean up afterwards. In the case of the V2, there were half etches where it met the valance. Once separated in to short sections the remains could be wiggled off - fracturing at the half etch. Cleaning up has to be done carefully to get a nice straight edge.. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Enterprisingwestern Posted November 24, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 24, 2016 Cutting with a disc. I find mounting the disc in a pillar drill and introducing the model to be a safer way for me, but realise that not every cut may be accessible on something such as a footplate. Same for sanding pads, you have more control with the spinning parts not going anywhere and can introduce the workpiece more carefully. Mike. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted November 24, 2016 Share Posted November 24, 2016 I have one of these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Kurlash-Diamondeb-Pointed-Foot-Dresser-Nail-Files-Diamond-Deb-/281397283233?var=&hash=item418495c9a1:m:m4TRd6yHVGRGi1STq8vja4w, which are very thin, and yet broad enough, and diamond coated so cut easily. they do fit between slidebars even in 4mm scale. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted December 4, 2016 Author Share Posted December 4, 2016 It's takes a day to fit out the chassis - putting the wheels on, checking bits of motion fit in place and that it will roll along freely. Sooo - nearly done. I didn't like the etched return crank roller bearing covers, so might use Ragstone ones. The return crank is marked to indicate which side it fits on. I've replaced the etched one with a Griffin one. I wasn't happy with the band round the firebox, so took it off and put a new one on.. 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted December 4, 2016 Share Posted December 4, 2016 ....I couldn't face the struggle with 6 laminations to make up the slidebars,.... No alternative in 4mm scale, so we have to use the laminated method. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted December 4, 2016 Author Share Posted December 4, 2016 Can't you scratch it up from N/S strip and square section - I'm presuming you can get something small enough in section? Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted December 4, 2016 Share Posted December 4, 2016 Can't you scratch it up from N/S strip and square section.... You could, but to my eyes it wouldn't look as clean. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
coachmann Posted December 4, 2016 Share Posted December 4, 2016 (edited) I've been doling a catch up and was very glad to see the JLTRT GWR Toplight coach parts, as i wondered what the detail would be like close up. Very impressed with the bolections. Nice work all through. In post #938, is that blood & custard auto coach a Lionheart 0 gauge model? Edited December 4, 2016 by coachmann Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DougN Posted December 5, 2016 Share Posted December 5, 2016 Stop that... slow down... I can't keep up.... Well I have done the tender! The other bits are no where near advanced... or look as nice as you photos! :thumbs: Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted December 5, 2016 Share Posted December 5, 2016 I've been doling a catch up and was very glad to see the JLTRT GWR Toplight coach parts, as i wondered what the detail would be like close up. Very impressed with the bolections. Nice work all through. In post #938, is that blood & custard auto coach a Lionheart 0 gauge model? Both the blood & custard and the maroon one below look like Lionheart coaches to my eyes, I'm sure Tony will be along soon to confirm this. Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted December 5, 2016 Author Share Posted December 5, 2016 Morning Larry and Martyn - The Toplights were a lot of work, but they turned out very well and my client was very pleased with them. I can't remember if I posted the photo below, but the detail is very good. Yes - the Autocoaches are Lionheart. Regards Tony 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted December 6, 2016 Author Share Posted December 6, 2016 Doug - you need to get a lick on mate! Like the loco, the tender brake gear is a bit 2 dimensional. I drilled out any etched dimples and soldered in .8mm wire to represent pivot bolts and pins etc. My soldering is a bit untidy underneath, but the real thing would be covered in crud in any case. One thing I couldn't live with was the half etched silhouette of the brake cylinders. So I knocked up some representations from scrap etch. I know they are not perfectly round, but you only see a part of the curved body on the gap in the side frames. I made a muck up of the scoop arm by breaking a bit off. I'll knock up something to fix that. The brake gear could do with a few castings rather than etchings for the cranks really. More tidying and finishing to come... 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Isambarduk Posted December 6, 2016 Share Posted December 6, 2016 "So I knocked up some representations from scrap etch. I know they are not perfectly round ..." Perfect job for a lathe, really David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DougN Posted December 7, 2016 Share Posted December 7, 2016 Doug - you need to get a lick on mate! Mine will be a bit smaller too as it is 4mm! I have 3 weeks off over christmas (well it is our summer) when I am intending to spend a bit of time building a few kits I have started and not finished... (OK lets not go on about the kits I have at 98%) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Boucher Posted December 7, 2016 Share Posted December 7, 2016 Cutting with a disk - fastest speed possible, make sure the work piece cannot move and a firm grip. Cut well back from were you need it and clean up afterwards. In the case of the V2, there were half etches where it met the valance. Once separated in to short sections the remains could be wiggled off - fracturing at the half etch. Cleaning up has to be done carefully to get a nice straight edge.. So, if I read this right, instead of cutting along the length of the valence (parallel), you went in perpendicular to the valence to make a bunch of short pieces, and then broke them off at the half etches? That would make SO much more sense (to me, at least) then trying to cut along the length and remove the "fixture" from the valence in one piece... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted December 7, 2016 Author Share Posted December 7, 2016 Mike - correct mate! It was easy then just to fracture off small parts of cradle then.. Regards 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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