howes 28xx/38xx sound chip

[big jim]

Ideally you want to lose the blutac blobs from your set up and maybe fashion it into a ring for the speaker to sit in, looking at the pic its probably not helping that one blob of blutac looks to be actually touching the speaker cone which may be preventing it moving fully and muffling the sound

 

Ideally it would be best in an enclosure but space is a premium of course!

 

Edit: pretty much what tesudofan posted while i was typing!

Edited January 15, 2015 by big jim

[Modelling Martin]

Ideally you want to lose the blutac blobs from your set up and maybe fashion it into a ring for the speaker to sit in, looking at the pic its probably not helping that one blob of blutac looks to be actually touching the speaker cone which may be preventing it moving fully and muffling the sound

 

Ideally it would be best in an enclosure but space is a premium of course!

 

Edit: pretty much what tesudofan posted while i was typing!

 

Thanks very much for the quick reply! What should i do about the section where all of the wires are running through i presume that will have to be left open? Also the speaker seems to be magnetically attracted to some electrics in this trough which i presume won't effect it? It wasn't me that fitted the chip in the first place by the way,

 

 

Blue= trough with wires

Red= magnetic thingy

 

Gary

Edited January 15, 2015 by Modelling Martin

[tractor_37260]

Hi all hope you could help me with this one. The sound seems rather quiet on my Howes chipped 28xx despite CV 63 being 128 which might mean the problem may lie with the speaker positioning. As you can see by the below picture what should i do to improve it? I'm not sure whether to put the weight back in because i don't want to short circuit the decoder or add more blu-tac? Any help would be much appreciated,

 

Gary

 

rrrr.jpg

For more volume,try changing the speaker for a 28mm round that suits the decoder in use, the tender recess is designed for that size ?- looks as you have a standard 23mm round fitted ? 

 

Red= magnetic thingy (and the small orange disc capacitors across the motor leads), not needed when using DCC , so you can remove all these to give extra space.

 

Once you remove the above, and with the remaining wires pulled out of the way, drill a line of holes in the trough bottom under the speaker recess circle, will help let the sound out.

Edited January 15, 2015 by tractor_37260

[RedgateModels]

On 09/01/2011 at 13:32, big jim said:

Here are some shots of the tender fit. the only mod to the tender is the cutout in the tender top to allow the decoder to sit nicely above the speaker and which is then hidden by the coal fillet when replaced, I did it with a dremel but could be done equally well by carefully drilling a number of holes to the same line an then removing the obsolete plastic and then trim with a file or modellers knife, the coal fillet could equally be replaced by a piece of card and real coal added to create a much better effect, the tender cavity produces a reasonable sound acoustic even though there is no actual speaker chamber, nor is there the room for one in the Hornby design. the sound then projects down through the slots in the chassis where the tops of the wheels pass through, so there is no need for any further modification. Hope this photo guide helps anyone who wants to fit their own model, its not hard and the coal fillet covers up any rough looking cutouts, mine usually are but I tidied mine up for the pics!!.

 

speaker position

 

position in tender

 

tender body cutout

 

tender top back on

 

finished article

 

Thanks for this Jim, I spent a good hour last night trying to see where I could fit a 28mm speaker and MX645 in the tender. Should have searched on RMweb first!