RMweb Premium thegreenhowards Posted January 18, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 18, 2020 12 hours ago, WisTramwayMan said: Was having a good look at D6116 in a Dapol retailer this afternoon, and the first thing that struck me was the lid of the excellently robust packaging states, in large letters, "North British Class 21 / Class 29 Diesel Hydraulic Locomotives". Err - wrong lads - class 22 was the diesel hydraulic, 21/29 were diesel electrics, someone obviously didn't do their research or proof checking (for the box lid) properly. On the plus side, it would appear that Dapol for the 21/29 are using a rigid plastic sleeve over the clamshell instead of the clingfilm like material used on the 22s, which always seemed to me to spoil the otherwise classy packaging, so tick there. And the model itself looked very nice. I'm waiting for the 29s..... I’ve been playing with my D6120 this week. It seems like a lovely model, but I’ve been struggling with decoder fitting. I opted for a Zimo decoder rather than the Dapol one, perhaps that was a mistake as I have two problems. Firstly what was a nice quiet runner after running in on DC is now rather noisy, although still very smooth. And secondly, I’ve tried inputting the CV changes suggested in Dapol’s instructions to control the lights. However, while the function keys turn lights on and off, the sequence bears little resemblance to what the Dapol instructions said that should do. For example on one key I get white lights at both ends! Has anyone else had similar problems? On the plus side, one thing which really impresses me is the way the detailing pack and coupling fit on the buffer beam which seems to allow for tension lock couplings with full detail. Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Kaput Posted January 18, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 18, 2020 The CV changes Dapol provide for light setup only apply to their own decoders. The required CV's on a Zimo decoder will be completely different. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
37081LochLong Posted January 18, 2020 Share Posted January 18, 2020 13 hours ago, WisTramwayMan said: Was having a good look at D6116 in a Dapol retailer this afternoon, and the first thing that struck me was the lid of the excellently robust packaging states, in large letters, "North British Class 21 / Class 29 Diesel Hydraulic Locomotives". Err - wrong lads - class 22 was the diesel hydraulic, 21/29 were diesel electrics, someone obviously didn't do their research or proof checking (for the box lid) properly. This was pointed out earlier in the thread when the model was released (page 34 I think) I'm hoping they get it right on the 29 and future releases Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
34theletterbetweenB&D Posted January 18, 2020 Share Posted January 18, 2020 2 hours ago, thegreenhowards said: ...I opted for a Zimo decoder rather than the Dapol one, perhaps that was a mistake as I have two problems. Firstly what was a nice quiet runner after running in on DC is now rather noisy, although still very smooth. And secondly, I’ve tried inputting the CV changes suggested in Dapol’s instructions to control the lights. However, while the function keys turn lights on and off, the sequence bears little resemblance to what the Dapol instructions said that should do. For example on one key I get white lights at both ends!... The day it is a mistake to use a Zimo decoder is the day I give up on DCC! That the mechanism runs smoothly suggests to me that getting the factory lubrication properly distributed is probably the source of any noise. (Mine started out a little 'growly' but with silky smooth movement on DC, and now has a MX638 and completely quieted after about two hours accrued running so that all I now hear is the wheels on the rails.) I may yet try it with the old Bachmann 36-554, as this basic decoder does well on intrinsically smooth running mechanisms which present no challenges to the motor control system. Lights all to cock just as you report! Could it be 'bespokery' to suit their own brand decoder rather than conforming to accepted standards? One day I will have the time and a clear head to sit down and work it out! (At present I have the cold that just keeps on giving and my head feels full of cotton wool. Lights really don't matter to me, so not much bothered. The all important traction task: first class, and it looks like the prototype too. It's right up there with my other favourites in RTR early BR diesel traction models: Bach's DP1 and Cravens DMU, Heljan's BTH type 1 and EE type 2. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
class29returns Posted January 18, 2020 Share Posted January 18, 2020 Got my green front ends and small yellow panel is on its way,any other livery variations that might come out in the future? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium thegreenhowards Posted January 18, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 18, 2020 6 hours ago, 34theletterbetweenB&D said: The day it is a mistake to use a Zimo decoder is the day I give up on DCC! That the mechanism runs smoothly suggests to me that getting the factory lubrication properly distributed is probably the source of any noise. (Mine started out a little 'growly' but with silky smooth movement on DC, and now has a MX638 and completely quieted after about two hours accrued running so that all I now hear is the wheels on the rails.) I may yet try it with the old Bachmann 36-554, as this basic decoder does well on intrinsically smooth running mechanisms which present no challenges to the motor control system. Lights all to cock just as you report! Could it be 'bespokery' to suit their own brand decoder rather than conforming to accepted standards? One day I will have the time and a clear head to sit down and work it out! (At present I have the cold that just keeps on giving and my head feels full of cotton wool. Lights really don't matter to me, so not much bothered. The all important traction task: first class, and it looks like the prototype too. It's right up there with my other favourites in RTR early BR diesel traction models: Bach's DP1 and Cravens DMU, Heljan's BTH type 1 and EE type 2. I certainly didn’t mean to diss Zimo. They are my decoder of choice, hence rejecting the Dapol one. Hopefully the noise is mechanical as you suggest but it did seem quieter on DC. I’ll remove the decoder tomorrow and see if that makes a difference. If not then a good oil round. As for the lights, I naively thought that as it said NMRA standard settings on the Dapol instructions that it would work the same on the Zimo decoder. I obviously need to do more puzzling! Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Daddyman Posted January 18, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 18, 2020 34 minutes ago, thegreenhowards said: Hopefully the noise is mechanical as you suggest but it did seem quieter on DC. I’ll remove the decoder tomorrow and see if that makes a difference. If not then a good oil round. Mine (running on DC) started thumping towards the end of the running-in - I oiled the gears through the apertures in the underside of the bogies and it immediately cured it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium spamcan61 Posted January 18, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 18, 2020 On 15/01/2020 at 10:51, 34theletterbetweenB&D said: There have been at least two threads started on the topic of whether spares/assembly diagrams are available for any Dapol diesels, and based on the ensuing silence, my assessment would be 'no'. DCC Supplies stock some Dapol spares at least:- https://www.dccsupplies.com/cl-744/Dapol-spares.htm 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium spamcan61 Posted January 18, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 18, 2020 (edited) On 15/01/2020 at 10:51, 34theletterbetweenB&D said: There have been at least two threads started on the topic of whether spares/assembly diagrams are available for any Dapol diesels, and based on the ensuing silence, my assessment would be 'no'. DCC Supplies stock some Dapol spares at least:- https://www.dccsupplies.com/cl-744/Dapol-spares.htm In fact quite a lot of different parts having looked properly! Edited January 18, 2020 by spamcan61 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baby Deltic Posted January 18, 2020 Share Posted January 18, 2020 1 hour ago, Daddyman said: Mine (running on DC) started thumping towards the end of the running-in - I oiled the gears through the apertures in the underside of the bogies and it immediately cured it. If it starts throwing oil as well, don't worry because its true to prototype. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold MikeParkin65 Posted January 20, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 20, 2020 On 18/01/2020 at 20:10, Daddyman said: Mine (running on DC) started thumping towards the end of the running-in - I oiled the gears through the apertures in the underside of the bogies and it immediately cured it. Mine has (so far) proved the be the sweetest runner straight from the box that I have had in a long time. A lot quieter than my Westerns. I fitted a Bachmann 21 pin decoder (once I'd had a Googled how to get the body off! ) and with CV's adjusted to the Bachmann recommendations for 'small motors' it is smooth and responsive throughout the speed range. I'm not bothered about lighting so have no need of the umpteen functions decoder Dapol are recommending. My brief review then is a model that looks like the prototype, very nicely finished (love the works plate - is it moulded on or an etching?) and a superb runner. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
davknigh Posted January 21, 2020 Share Posted January 21, 2020 How have people been mounting their headcode discs? Bachmann and Heljan have small pegs on the back so you can at least change assignments from time to time. I thought about blue tack but that seemed a bit, well, tacky... Cheers, David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 31A Posted January 22, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 22, 2020 10 hours ago, davknigh said: How have people been mounting their headcode discs? Bachmann and Heljan have small pegs on the back so you can at least change assignments from time to time. I thought about blue tack but that seemed a bit, well, tacky... Cheers, David Some pegs would have been useful, but in the end I used Mek Pal, care and some difficulty. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRman Posted January 22, 2020 Share Posted January 22, 2020 Having only just caught up with the comments since Friday (I was away for a few days), I had no problem with the lighting when I fitted a Dapol Imperium decoder; they worked correctly right from the start. That leaves me wondering what the CV changes in the supplied instruction sheet were supposed to achieve. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
34theletterbetweenB&D Posted January 22, 2020 Share Posted January 22, 2020 On 20/01/2020 at 13:39, MikeParkin65 said: ...My brief review then is a model that looks like the prototype, very nicely finished (love the works plate - is it moulded on or an etching?) and a superb runner. Very pleased with it for the same reasons. The basics all done right, and thereby a good canvas from which to start for a 'personalised' representation of a specific in service loco. First ever Dapol loco purchase for me, and 'just right'. 12 hours ago, davknigh said: How have people been mounting their headcode discs?... Much as with the old steam era oil lamps, there isn't an ideal solution. The problem that is thrown up by the good renditions of the prototype that we now receive, is that such detail needs to be consistent with the level of refinement on the model overall. (Windscreen wipers are another such small detail that require attention.) Currently havering (swithering if preferred) on this... 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium thegreenhowards Posted January 22, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 22, 2020 22 hours ago, davknigh said: How have people been mounting their headcode discs? Bachmann and Heljan have small pegs on the back so you can at least change assignments from time to time. I thought about blue tack but that seemed a bit, well, tacky... Cheers, David I used superglue for both the discs and the buffer beam detail. It worked well but I’m stuck with inner suburban workings. Will just have to buy another one if I want express or ECS headcodes! 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Tim Hall Posted January 22, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 22, 2020 22 hours ago, davknigh said: How have people been mounting their headcode discs? Bachmann and Heljan have small pegs on the back so you can at least change assignments from time to time. I thought about blue tack but that seemed a bit, well, tacky... Cheers, David I've used tacky wax for discs and headcode lamps on many locos with reasonable success. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRman Posted January 23, 2020 Share Posted January 23, 2020 On 22/01/2020 at 08:45, davknigh said: How have people been mounting their headcode discs? Bachmann and Heljan have small pegs on the back so you can at least change assignments from time to time. I thought about blue tack but that seemed a bit, well, tacky... Cheers, David I used 'Glue n Glaze', which dries clear. It is strong enough to hold the discs in place, yet not so strong that it would damage the paintwork or body if peeled off. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold MikeParkin65 Posted January 23, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 23, 2020 11 hours ago, SRman said: I used 'Glue n Glaze', which dries clear. It is strong enough to hold the discs in place, yet not so strong that it would damage the paintwork or body if peeled off. Good suggestion - I use G&G for nameplates and haven't lost one yet. Just got to catch it at the optimum 'tack point' - too early and it wont take, too late and it wont hold. You want it just as it goes from milky to opaque but before its clear As said its easy to peel off if you get it wrong 1 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
davknigh Posted January 23, 2020 Share Posted January 23, 2020 19 hours ago, SRman said: I used 'Glue n Glaze', which dries clear. It is strong enough to hold the discs in place, yet not so strong that it would damage the paintwork or body if peeled off. Very useful, thanks. Would I be correct in thinking that Glue ‘n Glaze is a form of PVA adhesive? Cheers, David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRman Posted January 24, 2020 Share Posted January 24, 2020 4 hours ago, davknigh said: Very useful, thanks. Would I be correct in thinking that Glue ‘n Glaze is a form of PVA adhesive? Cheers, David Hi David, It does appear to be a form of PVA, possibly with additives. Straight PVA would work but would probably take longer to set. Another alternative would be Microscale Krystal Klear, which is also a glazing glue with a PVA base. Whichever you wish to try, they will dry clear and remain flexible to cushion any accidental knocks. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
davknigh Posted January 24, 2020 Share Posted January 24, 2020 1 hour ago, SRman said: Hi David, It does appear to be a form of PVA, possibly with additives. Straight PVA would work but would probably take longer to set. Another alternative would be Microscale Krystal Klear, which is also a glazing glue with a PVA base. Whichever you wish to try, they will dry clear and remain flexible to cushion any accidental knocks. By a very happy coincidence I have a bottle of Kristal Klear which I will try after I find an appropriate shade of yellow for the closed discs. Sigh, there's always something else... Thanks for the advice. Cheers, David 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
davknigh Posted January 25, 2020 Share Posted January 25, 2020 Me again. In looking at the available pics of SYP Class 21s with headcode discs I notice that some have a dark line around the open disc presumably so that a white disc will have sufficient contrast to show up against the yellow. That said, it's difficult to determine what colour the contrasting ring is. Could somebody help, please? TIA, Cheers, David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
vitalspark Posted January 25, 2020 Share Posted January 25, 2020 I've been experimenting with these or rather with Craftsman brass replacements as the discs supplied look too small a diameter which is exaggerated by placing the hole over the lighting line on the nose. On the real thing the centre disc would appear to be dead centre of the door seam although as its hinged on one side this can't be but in model form it should be as near as no difference. The Dapol discs when fitted over the light in the nose are miles away and look completely wrong. My solution is to sweat a piece of 0.45 wire to the back of the disc and drill a corresponding hole in the nose. Tacky wax in the hole and push fit the disc which of course can be removed easily too. You can of course simply glue the larger brass disc to the nose but make sure you place it as central as possible and do not use the light/hole to align. I will post pictures shortly. Dave. 1 1 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mad McCann Posted January 25, 2020 Share Posted January 25, 2020 Any ETA on the Paxmans (Paxmen?) yet? Davy. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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