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Model Rail Sentinel


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Mine arrived a few days ago, but tonight was the first chance to test - dug out and cleaned an old yard of Peco, dusted off the Gaugemaster controller - unused for over a year, lubricated, connected up - <around 45 seconds> to cover the yard of track with <little or no> hesitation - now, after a couple of hours simmering on the rolling road it is virtually a silent runner.

 

This worries me - I have got the Ultrascale EM conversion pack, but seriously wondering whether I should bother - may just stay with 00 if this is the quality of r-t-r to come

 

Congratulations to Dapol on this for a very reasonable price

 

Now must wait for the Heljan Railbus!

 

GRW184

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Guest Max Stafford

Mine seems to run extremely well. I've managed to remove the cabside vents and she now bears the number 68138. Awaiting final touches!

 

Dave.

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The controller is a superb homebuilt pwm controller from an ancient Wireless World article, it can make a standard Triang X04 Jinty tick over reliably between poles with no worries if pickup is perfect.

Stewart

 

Is that the one called "better control of small DC motors" or something similar? It had the option of an accelerate/decelerate control or a variable potentiometer and a feedback adjustment trim.

If so I still have a couple of those lying around.

If I remember correctly it was recommended to put a lamp in series with the output as overload control.

 

It's a good circuit but I wouldn't say it gives any better control than a modern DCC chip though.

 

Keith

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Is that the one called "better control of small DC motors" or something similar? It had the option of an accelerate/decelerate control or a variable potentiometer and a feedback adjustment trim.

If so I still have a couple of those lying around.

If I remember correctly it was recommended to put a lamp in series with the output as overload control.

 

It's a good circuit but I wouldn't say it gives any better control than a modern DCC chip though.

 

Keith

 

That sounds like the same one, based on the new fangled power drill speed control. 21w car bulb and a 2N3055 power transistor. Never having tried DCC and I don't want to - enough modelling to do without getting into too much electronics (& expense) as thats my day job, I can't comment. I'll just quote my two examples of its use:

 

1)as before, standard Triang Jinty chassis, see through spokes but unplated wheels, X04 motor, 20:1 gears I believe; the motor "cogs" over between poles. On the track, you can drive it so slowly you can control the rate at which the tension-lock coupling hook rises over the next coupling loop.

 

2) A Wills J69 whitemetal kit, with a 5-pole version of an X04, forget the make? Fitted with 60:1 gears, and obviously the quite small driving wheels. This was placed on one end of the track, close up to the crocodile clips on the end of the rails. The track was a 1/2 circle of track from a Hornby Thgomsa set, laid in an S - shape. The loco fell of the other end exactly 29 mins & 20 secs later.

Satisfies me, I have enough original components left to build me 5/6 more so should see me out, no need to change! Add a Relco in circuit, and an ammeter, along with good pickups and it keeps me happy. Good luck to those who go DCC or whatever though.

 

Stewart

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I have enough original components left to build me 5/6 more so should see me out, no need to change! Add a Relco in circuit, and an ammeter, along with good pickups and it keeps me happy. Good luck to those who go DCC or whatever though.Stewart

 

I like the sound of this - are the requisite components still available? Would it be possible to get hold of a copy of the construction article?

 

I currently use old H&M Walkabout controllers that are VERY good, but they can be susceptible to the slider variable resistance wearing out, and it's not possible to replace these as they're pretty effectively built into the PCB.

 

I would love to be able to build myself something that can offer the level of control that you achieve.

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

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2) A Wills J69 whitemetal kit, with a 5-pole version of an X04, forget the make? Fitted with 60:1 gears, and obviously the quite small driving wheels. This was placed on one end of the track, close up to the crocodile clips on the end of the rails. The track was a 1/2 circle of track from a Hornby Thgomsa set, laid in an S - shape. The loco fell of the other end exactly 29 mins & 20 secs later.

Stewart

 

Why don't the big manufacturers make something like this ? I would love a controller that could do that but what most of them make will not give anywhere near that level of control. Not everybody wants DCC !

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Guys, re: this controller.

 

I'm already in contact with Brian777999 about emailing a copy over to him; having been away in Yorkshire for a few days I've not yet done so but was intending to do this tonight. Having emailed this to someone else before, it takes a number of emails to get the whole thing across. Basically I have a scan (poor but readable) of the original, which I guess is copyright but due to its age possibly would not be contested, but I have no intention of publishing that on here! I have written for my own benefit a number of pages including circuits, component layouts and wiring diagrams to enable repeat construction to be made. Can anyone suggest a better method of posting this (maybe even snail-mail!). 13 page mixed pdf/jpg, 14.6MB in total. If anyone can, then you can all have a copy.

Stewart

 

PS pm me if you wish

 

Edit to show content of file.

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Can anyone suggest a better method of posting this (maybe even snail-mail!). 13 page mixed pdf/jpg, 14.6MB in total. If anyone can, then you can all have a copy.

Stewart

 

I for one would be willing to send you a memory stick in an SAE, if that would help?

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

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I am sorry to hear others are not pleased with their Sentinels. Mine, however, is a little cracker - BR early emblem. It runs smmothly all round my layout which is populated with Peco dead frog 36 inch rad points and powered by a Gaugemaster Combi. On plain track it absolutely crawls (wouldn't risk it crawling through the points though - a more respectable scale 10 ot 15 mph gets it through without a stutter). In comparison, I have a mk 1 Bachmann Drewry (Class 03) which hesitates at virually every turn-out on the layout. I have only used it as station pilot but it has more than enough power.

Well pleased!

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On plain track it absolutely crawls (wouldn't risk it crawling through the points though - a more respectable scale 10 ot 15 mph gets it through without a stutter). In comparison, I have a mk 1 Bachmann Drewry (Class 03) which hesitates at virually every turn-out on the layout.

Well pleased!

 

My, very recent, 03 is very much on a par with the Sentinel. They form the motive power on my ex GE layout. (Plus the coming Wagonbasher). Don't tell 'em at Kernow or Model Rail but I have actually tried them double heading. :laugh: They run brilliantly together.

Bernard

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Guys, re: this controller.

 

 

The good thing about the circuit (I'm pretty sure we're talking the same one) was it wasn't fussy on components. I built my first ones with BC147 lockfit trannies (remember them?) and 1S920 diodes on 0.1" veroboard. The later ones used BC109 or BC182 with 1N4148 diodes on a home produced PCB and the performance was identical. I remember the cogging of the XO4 as that was the motor I used to test it with. I did away with the bulb in practice and used an electro-mecahnical current cut-out instead.

I believe some people reported commutator pitting in extreme circumstances but I never noticed any.

 

Keith

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Collected my Sentinel GWR 13 and Ultrascale wheels from Post Office on Thursday.

Just carried out a test - very good - most impressed.

 

i am at Rail Wells this weekend so may see if I can carry out the conversion to P4 tomorrow or Sunday.

 

Gordon A

Bristol

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Has anyone tried to install a micro loksound decoder coupled to the DCC " stay alive" ? I suspect that I may need to mill some space in the die cast weight. I also want to connect the DCC concepts red working lamps in the top front and top back of the sentinel in the GWR shunting lamp position- so things may get a littletight! Any ideas/ advice gratefully received. Best regards

 

Brian Patterson

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Very impressed with the running qualities. It drew alot of attention running on our layout on the Saturday of Midland Railex. Its body had to come off about 5 times to show people the inside.

 

Well done Dapol!

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Very impressed with the running qualities. It drew alot of attention running on our layout on the Saturday of Midland Railex. Its body had to come off about 5 times to show people the inside.

 

Are there any photographs of the inside ?

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  • 2 weeks later...

Detail types may find the drawings on this site useful;

http://sentinel7109....07/lner-y3.html

...See here for a drawing of a Y3 and another of 7109 (similar to the Radstock pair).

I must have been using invisible ink again :O Still, it's an interesting site so no harm in a repeat mention.

 

Are there any photographs of the inside ?

The only inside view that I've found is in

which I believe was mentioned a few pages back.

 

Nick

 

edit: I thought you meant the inside of a real one, as Chris says below, the inside of the model is not very exciting.

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Are there any photographs of the inside ?

 

I was going to take a photo but there really isn't much point. If you imagine a black metal rectangle which fills the 'bonnet' end of the loco and runs right through the cab at the same level, with a small pcb mounted in the cab, that's what it looks like.

CHRIS LEIGH

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I put a DCC Concepts stay alive decoder in mine.Not ideal with the wiring harness but I will replace it with a direct plug in decoder when they become available.The movement at speed step 1 is reallllllllllllly slow.I nearly fell asleep watching it.

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Mine came in and runs a treat but I have a small problem that needs sorting. I plan to convert mine to P4 which will entail removing assorted bits but the first step is to remove the brake gear and it is firmly stuck in place :unsure: . Has anyone found any non-destructive solutions to this problem?

 

Cheers,

 

David

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This seems to be either a later modification, or specific to certain versions, or maybe the factory just started making them before the glue arrived. I don't remember anyone mentioning this when they first arrived and several others had the same experience as me, i.e. the four corners of the brake system just pulled out of their slots with little or no effort.

 

Nick

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