gz3xzf Posted April 7, 2021 Share Posted April 7, 2021 Really liking the injector Dave, they look very similar to Drummond's injectors/location used later. How do you hold it all together to solder, I've found in the past (with the Markits clack valves) that things tend to shift and fall apart when you solder the next bit on or do you solder all at once? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Jack Benson Posted April 13, 2021 Share Posted April 13, 2021 Dave, You are welcome at any time to run these beauties because Beaminster Road's electrical gremlin has now left the room and Sunday running sessions are once more a 'thing'. StaySafe Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Popular Post DLT Posted April 13, 2021 Author RMweb Premium Popular Post Share Posted April 13, 2021 (edited) On 07/04/2021 at 23:32, gz3xzf said: Really liking the injector Dave, they look very similar to Drummond's injectors/location used later. How do you hold it all together to solder, I've found in the past (with the Markits clack valves) that things tend to shift and fall apart when you solder the next bit on or do you solder all at once? Thanks Bryan, All a bit fiddly, but if you use a high melt solder on the first bits, then lower melt on the next bits you can do it. Alternatively, using low melt on the whole thing means you can hold it together with fingers and get in and out with the iron quickly. For those injectors, I left the wires quite long so that I could hold them further away when soldering, and cut them to length afterwards. The D15s (and the L12s) had a different pattern of injector, mounted below the cab: The model looked a bit bare without them, so I've rigged up something that vaguely looks like them, from the rather small and shadowy area of the prototype photos. The ingredients are odd lumps of whitemetal, 1/16" brass tube, .7mm copper wire, and various bits left over from Markits Clack-valve kits. Markits sell a pack of copper wire, some stuff as comes with the clack-valves. Rigged up something that looks like this: Soldered together with 70-degree lowmelt solder and singed fingers, and "Here's one I made earlier" Trimmed to length and three are plenty of recesses in the whitemetal bodywork to Araldite them in place. Temporarily fixed with Blue-Tac: Edited September 7, 2022 by DLT 6 1 13 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted April 13, 2021 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted April 13, 2021 1 hour ago, Jack Benson said: Dave, You are welcome at any time to run these beauties because Beaminster Road's electrical gremlin has now left the room and Sunday running sessions are once more a 'thing'. StaySafe Excellent news! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack P Posted April 13, 2021 Share Posted April 13, 2021 7 hours ago, DLT said: various bits left over from Markits Clack-valve kits I find those bits to be supremely handy also. You've made fine work of those injectors, it's those final details that really bring the model to the fore. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Popular Post DLT Posted April 14, 2021 Author RMweb Premium Popular Post Share Posted April 14, 2021 (edited) Finished!!! At long last... Not sure what else to say really. Edited September 7, 2022 by DLT 20 1 6 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Popular Post DLT Posted April 14, 2021 Author RMweb Premium Popular Post Share Posted April 14, 2021 (edited) The D15 is finished as well. Edited September 7, 2022 by DLT 23 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Jack Benson Posted April 14, 2021 Share Posted April 14, 2021 Dave, Thank you Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Popular Post DLT Posted May 4, 2021 Author RMweb Premium Popular Post Share Posted May 4, 2021 Next job is a G6 from a rare 4mm scale Connoisseur Kit. To say that it "falls together" is perhaps a bit of an exageration; care needs to be taken, but everything fits beautifully and comes up straight and square. This won't be a "blow by blow" account, as encouraged by the accuracy, you can see I've already cracked on with it. One omission is with the bufferbeams. No rivet detail is present, and the front end does not feature the heavy cast bufferbeam that was added to help balance the loco fairly early in their lives. Here is the front beam with boltheads added and a chunk of whitemetal to represent the casting. I will Araldite this in place once I know there's no more heavy soldering to be done. 15 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Popular Post DLT Posted May 10, 2021 Author RMweb Premium Popular Post Share Posted May 10, 2021 All the various lengths of etched beading have now been applied; fiddly but satisfying! However the etched coal rails turned out to be a bit on the small side; too narrow and too low. Rather than try to modify them (they needed plating in anyway) I've made new ones. Scaling from photos, the ribs are 0.7mm wide, with a 0.7 gap between them. And Gibson etched boiler-bands are 0.7mm wide! Three bands were soldered to a strip of brass, and the strip reduced to 4.2mm wide: On the other side, triangular slots for fold lines were filed 31.5mm apart, to match the width of the bunker. Bent to right angles and a bead of solder run into the corners. And the bit that took the longest, cutting the ends to length and filing them to fit the curve of the bunker top. Finally soldering them in place while attempting to hold everything square and level. 11 13 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
nberrington Posted May 11, 2021 Share Posted May 11, 2021 (edited) I built one of these in P4 and I really wish Jim would do more 4mm kits! https://www.scalefour.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=1761&hilit=G6 Edited May 11, 2021 by nberrington 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Daddyman Posted May 12, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 12, 2021 On 11/05/2021 at 01:28, nberrington said: I really wish Jim would do more 4mm kits! He won't - I keep asking. I always tell him the 4mm kits are typically going for £100 on ebay, which piques his interest, but he won't budge. Though if more of us asked him... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack P Posted May 12, 2021 Share Posted May 12, 2021 55 minutes ago, Daddyman said: He won't - I keep asking. I always tell him the 4mm kits are typically going for £100 on ebay, which piques his interest, but he won't budge. Though if more of us asked him... We could do one of those online petition forms for people that would purchase the kit. That way, someone with relatively eloquent and soft approach could link it to him. Might be better than multiple people messaging him at once? Out of interest, if they're going for £100 on ebay, what would they have cost new? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Daddyman Posted May 12, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 12, 2021 2 minutes ago, Jack P said: We could do one of those online petition forms for people that would purchase the kit. That way, someone with relatively eloquent and soft approach could link it to him. Might be better than multiple people messaging him at once? Out of interest, if they're going for £100 on ebay, what would they have cost new? I only know the North Eastern stuff, which went or £40-ish when he released a small batch five or so years ago. I'm soft and eloquent! Still no dice... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Popular Post DLT Posted May 28, 2021 Author RMweb Premium Popular Post Share Posted May 28, 2021 Sorry for lack of progress updates recently, had domestic jobs to deal with, but body detailing is ongoing; The castings are very good on the whole, but I'm not sure about the proportions of the chimney The intended loco is No.258, one of the original 1894 batch (257-266). These have some detail differences from the later locos, noticably the splashers. They have rounded tops at the front, (the later locos have a square edge) and curved beading where the later ones were plain. Also, as far as i can see, only the earlier locos had the short horizontal handrail on the cabside. Lifting eyes have been added to the tanks-tops. The roof is as supplied in the kit, without the distinctive vertical ribs. I will probably replace it, with one built in the same was as for the 0395. (When a new supply of brass angle arrives from Eileens) The roof, by the way, is just resting in place, if you're wondering why its out of position. Right-Angles of waste etch have been added behind the footsteps to brace them, and filed back to clear the coupling-rods 9 1 16 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted May 28, 2021 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted May 28, 2021 What do you think abut the chimney? It just doesn't look right to me. I can replace it with one from Phoenix Precision, as on the 0395 above. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium pete_mcfarlane Posted May 28, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 28, 2021 9 hours ago, DLT said: Right-Angles of waste etch have been added behind the footsteps to brace them, and filed back to clear the coupling-rods I'm definitely going to steal that idea. No more bent steps. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted May 28, 2021 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted May 28, 2021 2 minutes ago, pete_mcfarlane said: I'm definitely going to steal that idea. No more bent steps. Quickly soldered in with low-melt, to avoid your carefully assembled steps disintegrating! 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Nick C Posted May 28, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 28, 2021 (edited) 13 minutes ago, DLT said: What do you think abut the chimney? It just doesn't look right to me. I can replace it with one from Phoenix Precision, as on the 0395 above. I agree - it definitely doesn't have that Drummond feel about it - I'd say it's too short, and the lip looks too big. Edit - there's a fairly good pic of 258 at Basingstoke shed here: https://thetransportlibrary.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&path=69&product_id=738 Edited May 28, 2021 by Nick C Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted May 29, 2021 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted May 29, 2021 On 28/05/2021 at 10:39, Nick C said: there's a fairly good pic of 258 at Basingstoke shed here: Thanks very much Nick, I hadn't seen that one. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Nick C Posted May 29, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 29, 2021 6 minutes ago, DLT said: Thanks very much Nick, I hadn't seen that one. I've found a good source of loco photos these days is to simply stick the running number into a Google image search! It doesn't always work, but often throws up something... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack P Posted May 30, 2021 Share Posted May 30, 2021 I'd agree with your thoughts on the chimney - it looks top heavy. The phoenix replacement looks much better. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted June 1, 2021 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted June 1, 2021 On 30/05/2021 at 01:12, Jack P said: I'd agree with your thoughts on the chimney - it looks top heavy. The phoenix replacement looks much better. Unfortunately the Phoenix chimney is no longer available. Spoke to Phoenix today and he told me that the gentleman who produced them is "no longer with us". So when the stock that Phoenix got from him is gone, its gone. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Daddyman Posted June 2, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 2, 2021 (edited) 13 hours ago, DLT said: Unfortunately the Phoenix chimney is no longer available. Spoke to Phoenix today and he told me that the gentleman who produced them is "no longer with us". So when the stock that Phoenix got from him is gone, its gone. Well, if you have one (one of the chimneys, I mean), a rubber mould can be made and resin castings taken, giving you a lifetime's supply... Edited June 2, 2021 by Daddyman 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted June 6, 2021 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted June 6, 2021 (edited) Been busy on the cab interior lately, (once I'd done a big order for brass angle from Eileens Emporium) First is the cab floor and tanks, fabricated from brass sheet, angle and bits from the scrapbox. This drops into the cab, rear first, and slides forward so that the tanks are against the front of the cab. The backhead will fit between the tanks (when it arrives) The bunker front is more angle and scrap etch, roughly the right size and shape. Details taken from an O2, as illustrations of a G6 cab seem to be non-existent. Many thanks to Jim McGeown of Connoisseur for pointing me in the direction of this site: http://wryl.co.uk/loco/other/g6.html, and for making his O2 kit instructions available to download. I also referred back to the Finecast O2 construction near the start of this topic. The cab roof supplied was a flat etch without any vertical ribs. I considered trying to add ribs, but decided that a new roof would be easier! So its made with 1mm brass angle, the same way as the 0395 described earlier. Springy nickel-silver wires at each corner make it a push-fit into the cab, and are easy to adjust. Edited September 7, 2022 by DLT 9 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now