KalKat Posted July 14, 2020 Share Posted July 14, 2020 Ah.... but then paypal , bank transfer or.........? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Tim Dubya Posted July 14, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 14, 2020 Dunno, couldn't find that bit Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
KalKat Posted July 14, 2020 Share Posted July 14, 2020 Me neither...... useful huh? Emma 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted July 14, 2020 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted July 14, 2020 6 hours ago, KalKat said: Ah.... but then paypal , bank transfer or.........? 6 hours ago, Tim Dubya said: Dunno, couldn't find that bit That is explained in the email with the invoice. The payment choice is bank transfer, or send a cheque. 1 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gz3xzf Posted July 14, 2020 Share Posted July 14, 2020 (edited) 1 hour ago, DLT said: That is explained in the email with the invoice. The payment choice is bank transfer, or send a cheque. Hi Dave et al I used the bank transfer method of payment and the goods arrived with me 5 days from ordering, I might expect that the current situation could add a bit of time. I have used mine (just the once so far) and was very happy, here is a link to my photo of it in use: - Bryan's Workbench (BTW Mine is the 4 axle jig) Edited July 14, 2020 by gz3xzf 4 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted July 16, 2020 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted July 16, 2020 Motor and gearbox assembled, and runs beautifully with a standard Gaugemaster. The motor is a 1320 round can, and looks really small after working with Mashima flat cans for so long. I want to crack on and assemble the chassis, but having ordered the Poppys Loco Box, I guess I had better wait until it arrives! 6 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted July 16, 2020 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted July 16, 2020 14 hours ago, DLT said: The motor is a 1320 round can, and looks really small after working with Mashima flat cans for so long. Meant to say, its the new Highlevel motor. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted July 17, 2020 Share Posted July 17, 2020 9 hours ago, DLT said: Meant to say, its the new Highlevel motor. That's Chris's coreless motor, I have the 1219 and its stunning, Chris recons the 1320 is much more powerful 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 30368 Posted July 20, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 20, 2020 Hi David/John, 1320 in my DJH A2/3 and it looks too small for the size and weight of this loco. I can confirm though that it is very powerful with lots of torque and is very silent. Kind regards, Richard B 5 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Popular Post DLT Posted July 26, 2020 Author RMweb Premium Popular Post Share Posted July 26, 2020 (edited) I've used my new Poppy's 4-axle jig as an aid to chassis assembling, and its certainly an excellent aid. In this instance, I didn't use all the frame spacers in the kit; I made up some new "L" shaped ones, as these are much better at keeping the chassis aligned vertically (photo 2). I soldered the spacers to one side of the chassis first, before putting it in the jig. With a long chassis like this, its too easy to get the frames twisted/curved, but by pushing the whole thing against the side of the jig with a straight edge to solder the second side on, (photo 3) you keep everything flat, straight and right-angled. And it now looks like this: Edited September 7, 2022 by DLT 12 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack P Posted July 26, 2020 Share Posted July 26, 2020 45 minutes ago, DLT said: but by pushing the whole thing against the side of the jig with a straight edge to solder the second side on, (photo 3) you keep everything flat, straight and right-angled. This is exactly what I'd thought i'm glad to see it works! Looking fantastically neat and tidy as per usual. 1 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted July 27, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 27, 2020 That's exactly how I use the Poppy's jigs as well - I've never used frame building jigs before but these are simple, cheap and very good. 3 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted July 27, 2020 Share Posted July 27, 2020 8 hours ago, Jack P said: This is exactly what I'd thought i'm glad to see it works! Looking fantastically neat and tidy as per usual. 2 hours ago, Michael Edge said: That's exactly how I use the Poppy's jigs as well - I've never used frame building jigs before but these are simple, cheap and very good. This is exactly how I have seen it used before and how you assemble the frames on the expensive jigs, what I do not understand is if you can use hornblocks in it, and if yes how. But an excellent well thought out piece of kit at a competitive price, and a decent length of rod for crankpins 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium pete_mcfarlane Posted July 27, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 27, 2020 27 minutes ago, hayfield said: This is exactly how I have seen it used before and how you assemble the frames on the expensive jigs, what I do not understand is if you can use hornblocks in it, and if yes how. But an excellent well thought out piece of kit at a competitive price, and a decent length of rod for crankpins I've got one of these boxes, and have used it to assemble several compensated chassis (using High Level's hornblocks). I bought one after seeing a fellow member of the local Scalefour area group use one. Assemble the chassis on the jig with the hornblocks pushed into place in the frames, fit the dummy axles and coupling rods (to get the hornblocks to the correct spacing), and then solder them in place. Doing this with the chassis resting on the hornblock bearings (so at the top extent of their vertical travel) hasn't caused me any problems - the last chassis I built this was ran with no adjustment of the coupling rods at all. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted July 27, 2020 Share Posted July 27, 2020 49 minutes ago, pete_mcfarlane said: I've got one of these boxes, and have used it to assemble several compensated chassis (using High Level's hornblocks). I bought one after seeing a fellow member of the local Scalefour area group use one. Assemble the chassis on the jig with the hornblocks pushed into place in the frames, fit the dummy axles and coupling rods (to get the hornblocks to the correct spacing), and then solder them in place. Doing this with the chassis resting on the hornblock bearings (so at the top extent of their vertical travel) hasn't caused me any problems - the last chassis I built this was ran with no adjustment of the coupling rods at all. Pete Thanks for explaining the method, I have watched Derek's (Eileen's Emporium) video on using the Avonside chassis jig where you fit the hornblocks to the sides first then assemble the chassis on the jig, but compensated chassis have been built long before these jigs were thought of. so there are alternative build methods. These Poppy's jigs are certainly liked by those who use them and seem excellent value 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted July 27, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 27, 2020 3 hours ago, hayfield said: This is exactly how I have seen it used before and how you assemble the frames on the expensive jigs, what I do not understand is if you can use hornblocks in it, and if yes how. I very rarely use hornblocks but it works fine in just the same way. 1 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted July 27, 2020 Share Posted July 27, 2020 How are the Horn guides/boxes held against the chassis side for soldering, The larger jigs use gravity as you solder each side separately. Do you secure the axle rods somehow and do the same ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium pete_mcfarlane Posted July 27, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 27, 2020 With this jig you fit the hornblocks after the frames are assembled. One way is to assemble the frames on the jig before cutting out the hornways. You can fit bearings into the axles to be compensated, and assemble the chassis on the jig as if it was a normal rigid chassis (as per the above photo). Then cut the hornways out very carefuly with a piercing saw. Once that's done, you can assemble the chassis on the jig with the hornblocks in place and everything held together by a combination of gravity, the jig axles and the coupling rods. There's a photo about halfway down this page of my High Level Barclay tank (which uses a combination of beams and hornblocks) on the jig which probably explains things better . https://www.scalefour.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=89&t=4904&start=25 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted July 28, 2020 Share Posted July 28, 2020 Pete Thanks, I see there are blue retaining collets for the axles, so this would stop the axles sliding out, as do the bits of tube holding the coupling rods in position. I guess with this arrangement you could lay the jig on its side and work on each frame separately to fit the hornblocks prior to soldering both sides of the chassis together. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium pete_mcfarlane Posted July 28, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 28, 2020 I've not tried using the jig that way - I'm not sure how you'd ensure accurate alignment of the hornblocks. This relies on having both sets of rods in place on the jig axles. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted July 28, 2020 Share Posted July 28, 2020 Pete You would still use both sets of coupling rods, the axles are held in place by plastic collets, and the coupling rods likewise by the small bore plastic tube ( presumably from electrical multi strand wire insulation) May need a cradle, and be a bit cumbersome, but it works much the same way as the more expensive jigs Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium pete_mcfarlane Posted July 28, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 28, 2020 If you want to assemble the frames that way, I'm wondering if it would be easier to use the rods as a template for drilling pilot holes in a length of bar or block of hardwood (using a pillar drill to ensure accuracy). Open them out to 1/8", fit spare Gibson axles, and you've got a jig. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted July 28, 2020 Share Posted July 28, 2020 Pete I think because I have a Hobby Holidays jig I am used to fitting the bearings or hornblocks first, I just had issues with Gibson hornblocks prior to getting my H H jig. Stuck with a process and sequence I prefer 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted July 28, 2020 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted July 28, 2020 Hi Folks, This is a very interesting discussion, about the finer points of using the Poppy's Jigs. I'm always pleased to read your advice/comments/opinions, but would the current discussion on the fitting of hornblocks be more appropriate in the actual Chassis Jigs topic ? See here: https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/156485-chassis-jigs/page/2/ Its where others will look for advice Cheers, Dave, 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted July 31, 2020 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted July 31, 2020 One thing I DIDN'T say about the chassis, is that when I made new spacers, I made them slightly wider than the supplied 00 spacers. if built as supplied you end up with sideplay on all axles, and you take this up by adding washers. Seems a bit odd, so I'vr made the chassis wider, and provided sideplay where necessary (on the second and fourth axles) by thinning down the bearing bosses. I guess the provision of unnecesarily narrow frames in 00 is a legacy of old open-frames motor days, when the chassis was designed for the motor to fit on top of it, with worm & wheel gearing and no gearbox. The wider the frames, the more space you have to get a gearbox in. Cheers, Dave. 1 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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