Jack P Posted June 8, 2020 Share Posted June 8, 2020 Oh boy! Dave that really looks the business! Tony will be hugely pleased i'm sure. I appreciate the insight on the ultrasonic cleaner - i've been meaning to get my hands on one for a while now, do you find the 1.4L tank to be too big/small or about right? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted June 9, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 9, 2020 That looks superb - but I'm not very keen on the visible screw heads, are they staying like that? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium John Isherwood Posted June 9, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 9, 2020 10 hours ago, DLT said: Hi Bryan, I'm not sure if it helps much, but this is the one I've got: https://www.amazon.co.uk/James-Ultrasonic-8000-High-Cleaner/dp/B000XXVWTM I'm assuming its not produced any more. I've had it a long time, and I can't remember where I bought it or what it cost! I know it was a step up from a basic home/jewelry model, but I expect they've improved in the intervening time. All the best, Dave. I had one of the cheap Lidl jewelry cleaners for several years - it was fine for components, but too small for a full mechanism. I now have a model JPS-30A 6.5 litre tank model - these cleaners seem to be marketed under a bewildering number of brands. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Digital-Thermostat-Stainless-JPS-30A-Ultrasonic-Cleaning-Machine-6L-with-Basket-/152509156691 A 6.5 litre tank cleaner will hold a complete loco chassis - much more practicable - and it has a heater so that the fluid is kept warm / hot. A tank cleaner is more expensive than what is basically a jewelry cleaner - though you may well find a JPS-30A at a cheaper price if you search around - but, in the long run, it's money well spent. Regards, John Isherwood. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted June 9, 2020 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted June 9, 2020 3 hours ago, Michael Edge said: That looks superb - but I'm not very keen on the visible screw heads, are they staying like that? Thanks Mike. Screw heads can be an issue, but they are less obvious when you look at the model. I will probably fill the slots with something. Cheers, Dave. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted June 9, 2020 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted June 9, 2020 10 hours ago, Jack P said: I appreciate the insight on the ultrasonic cleaner - i've been meaning to get my hands on one for a while now, do you find the 1.4L tank to be too big/small or about right? 9 minutes ago, cctransuk said: I had one of the cheap Lidl jewelry cleaners for several years - it was fine for components, but too small for a full mechanism. I now have a model JPS-30A 6.5 litre tank model - these cleaners seem to be marketed under a bewildering number of brands. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Digital-Thermostat-Stainless-JPS-30A-Ultrasonic-Cleaning-Machine-6L-with-Basket-/152509156691 A 6.5 litre tank cleaner will hold a complete loco chassis - much more practicable - and it has a heater so that the fluid is kept warm / hot. A tank cleaner is more expensive than what is basically a jewelry cleaner - though you may well find a JPS-30A at a cheaper price if you search around - but, in the long run, it's money well spent. Regards, John Isherwood. My tank is approx 6.5inch x 5inch x 2.5 deep. Big enough for 4mm scale locos, and I can get most of my 7mm narrow gauge models in it, apart from the coaches. Size/shape of the tank is probably the important factor when choosing one. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gz3xzf Posted June 9, 2020 Share Posted June 9, 2020 5 hours ago, DLT said: My tank is approx 6.5inch x 5inch x 2.5 deep. Big enough for 4mm scale locos, and I can get most of my 7mm narrow gauge models in it, apart from the coaches. Size/shape of the tank is probably the important factor when choosing one. Thanks Dave & John I have found one which is a bit of a compromise between size and cost which seems to fit the bill, it is a GT Sonic 3L which has a tank (9.6inch X 5.6inch X 4inch (24CM X 14CM X 10CM), not quite as big as John's but the price (on E-bay) comes in at around £83 (the 6L ones seem to be around £200). Do you have to buy the additive fluid or can you use just water? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted June 9, 2020 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted June 9, 2020 I just use warm water 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium John Isherwood Posted June 9, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 9, 2020 58 minutes ago, gz3xzf said: Thanks Dave & John I have found one which is a bit of a compromise between size and cost which seems to fit the bill, it is a GT Sonic 3L which has a tank (9.6inch X 5.6inch X 4inch (24CM X 14CM X 10CM), not quite as big as John's but the price (on E-bay) comes in at around £83 (the 6L ones seem to be around £200). Do you have to buy the additive fluid or can you use just water? As most of the models that I clean have been soldered, I add a few crystals of washing soda to neutralise the acid flux, and a drop of washing-up liquid to remove greasy finger marks. John Isherwood. 1 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack P Posted June 9, 2020 Share Posted June 9, 2020 (edited) I took the plunge and ordered one! A 1.4L tank, dimensions pretty similar to Dave's one. If anyone is interested - it's this one specifically Appreciate the insight! Edited June 10, 2020 by Jack P 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium BSW01 Posted June 9, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 9, 2020 (edited) 13 hours ago, DLT said: Thanks Mike. Screw heads can be an issue, but they are less obvious when you look at the model. I will probably fill the slots with something. Cheers, Dave. A few years ago, I read on another thread on here (I’m sorry but I can’t remember who’s it was) a method to disguise the screw heads. He used small discs of paper sprayed the same colour (and at the same time) as the loco. These were then glued over the screw heads to hide them. They could easily be removed with a knife if necessary later. Edited June 9, 2020 by BSW01 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Popular Post DLT Posted June 14, 2020 Author RMweb Premium Popular Post Share Posted June 14, 2020 (edited) Well, I reckon its pretty much finished. Not many bits left to stick on (whistle) and its getting late so here's one photo to be going on with. I'll take some more tomorrow. Cheers, Dave. Edited September 6, 2022 by DLT 15 10 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Tony Teague Posted June 14, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 14, 2020 Excellent! 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Popular Post DLT Posted June 14, 2020 Author RMweb Premium Popular Post Share Posted June 14, 2020 (edited) Edited September 6, 2022 by DLT 25 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RAY NORWOOD Posted June 15, 2020 Share Posted June 15, 2020 Thats look very good Dave. 1 4 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack P Posted June 15, 2020 Share Posted June 15, 2020 (edited) On 15/06/2020 at 11:35, DLT said: The whole thing is expertly built and looks fantastic, but that front end captures the look of the prototype perfectly! Edited June 16, 2020 by Jack P 1 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted June 17, 2020 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted June 17, 2020 (edited) At long last I think I've run out of bits to stick on. screw-link coupling on the front, and lastly the whistle. Weight has been added to the chassis by four large chunks of lead fixed into various cavities. The intention was to line the large boiler cavity above the drivers with lead sheet, as there's plenty of room around the motor, but I seem to have run out of sheet. I'm sure I had a piece almost six inches square but I can't find it anywhere A final couple of photos to show the slide-out cab detail; cruelly blown up to show the whitemetal limitations, but featuring the beautiful Markits reverser. The reason for the pipework not reaching the floor is that the floor as supplied was too high. This was presumably to clear the driving wheels, and not to require splashers or have the wheels intruding into the cab. I'm sure a driver and fireman will be added, who will hide the issue. Cheers, Dave. Edited September 6, 2022 by DLT 14 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted June 19, 2020 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted June 19, 2020 (edited) Here's a quick video to prove that it's all together and working. And if you're wondering why the scenery looks a bit overscale, its running on my 7mm narrow gauge layout. Edited June 19, 2020 by DLT 14 3 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gz3xzf Posted June 20, 2020 Share Posted June 20, 2020 12 hours ago, DLT said: And if you're wondering why the scenery looks a bit overscale, its running on my 7mm narrow gauge layout. As the standard gauge buffer stop came into view I was thinking "somethings wrong here!". 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted June 25, 2020 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted June 25, 2020 (edited) As this is one of my favourite kitbuilds, please excuse my indulgence in putting up some more photos before it is dispatched to it's new "home shed". I've definitely run out of things to stick on now, its got a whistle, front screw-link coupling, lead sheet lining the boiler etc. Edited September 6, 2022 by DLT 11 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted June 25, 2020 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted June 25, 2020 And finally, a quick vid of it running on my workbench test track. I promise I'll shut-up about it now! 10 1 3 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
garethashenden Posted June 26, 2020 Share Posted June 26, 2020 I’m not too familiar with the prototype, but is the smokebox door supposed to be that low? It doesn’t look centred at all... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Tomlinson Posted June 26, 2020 Share Posted June 26, 2020 5 hours ago, garethashenden said: I’m not too familiar with the prototype, but is the smokebox door supposed to be that low? It doesn’t look centred at all... Suggest you look at the prototype photos on page 62. John. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted July 1, 2020 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted July 1, 2020 In original as-built condition, the smokebox door was in the centre. With these locos having parallel boilers and consequently massive smokeboxes, I'm assuming the door was a bit high for easy access and working. Certainly all the photos I've seen of these locos in SR & BR days, show the smokebox door in the lower position. And this gives the smokebox an even more massive appearance! Cheers, Dave. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted July 1, 2020 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted July 1, 2020 Getting started on the next job, another Maunsell Z-Class 0-8-0, from the excellent DMR kit. I probably won't do a blow-by-blow account with this one, (famous last words) as it will be much the same as the Z I built some years ago, and detailed earlier on this thread starting here: Z-Class, DMR Kit Instead I will do some general progress reports and photos, and detail anything that I do differently. I've ordered one of Highlevel's new 1320 coreless motors, and a Loadhauler-Plus gearbox. Cheers, Dave. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack P Posted July 1, 2020 Share Posted July 1, 2020 23 minutes ago, DLT said: Getting started on the next job, another Maunsell Z-Class 0-8-0, from the excellent DMR kit. I probably won't do a blow-by-blow account with this one, (famous last words) as it will be much the same as the Z I built some years ago, and detailed earlier on this thread starting here: Z-Class, DMR Kit Instead I will do some general progress reports and photos, and detail anything that I do differently. I've ordered one of Highlevel's new 1320 coreless motors, and a Loadhauler-Plus gearbox. Cheers, Dave. Looking forward to seeing this Dave, I've been meaning to order one of the DMR Z's for a while. I'd love to see some in depth info on how you sort out the back of the bunker to keep the cab/bunker sides straight. Also interested to see the new 1320. 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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