Jump to content
 

DLT's SR Locos - Beattie WT Westward Kit


DLT
 Share

Recommended Posts

Pickups can be the single most frustrating element of building chassis - I can often obsess about the noise they can make - a sort of soft scraping sound sometimes which can be confused with gearbox noise and definitely the break effect you describe when they bare too hard on the wheels. So when looking for good running qualities I've learnt to check or redo pickups first rather than pulling apart the drive or coupling rods. 

 

Helps having a couple of locos you've built to refer to: Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery!

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

The Beattie is fresh from a good long run on my Group's somewhat battle-scarred testrack last night.  So called because if it will run on that, it will run on anything!

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

Here's the complete (I hope) chassis.

IMG_8861Small.jpg.aff2c167bf71c1357d85addf485de47e.jpg

 

When I say "complete", it still needs wheel balance weights adding, and some paint here and there.

  • Like 7
  • Craftsmanship/clever 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

Been quiet for a while, because I'm doing all the fiddly bits.  Boiler fittings, injector pipework, clack valves, handrails etc.

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

One-piece handrails are another fiddly job, a large amount of trial and error, but you get there in the end.

Very long steam pipes to the injectors, but shorter to the clack-valves.  All made from copper wire.

The valves themselves are whitemetal from the kit, and really rather nice.

IMG_8864Small.jpg.f116ba90c49f2f40fa19cb6ec6a821fa.jpg

 

Lamp-irons on the bunker are thin brass strip (about 0.8mm)  bent and inserted through holes and soldered from behind.  Good idea to hold them against a spacer while soldering.

They are not quite the right pattern, but close enough I think.

IMG_8871Small.jpg.0cedfc35712384b3d4915eec655c3253.jpg

 

IMG_8870Small.jpg.1900401b4f007dc4573d729f8d0c3c07.jpg

 

IMG_8869Small.jpg.80d77e1c358793d3f13c0a8981f19bd4.jpg

 

The other bits are the fire-iron rack, again bent up from narrow strip and soldered on.

  • Like 10
  • Craftsmanship/clever 5
  • Round of applause 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

There'[s a very good reason why all this detail fitting is done to the bunker before fitting it to the loco.  Due to the tiny size of the bunker I wont be able to get a soldering iron in, and thus I will have to araldite it together anyway.   This work would be impossible once fitted, and aralditing means no risk of re-melting all that solder.

Err, does that make sense?

  • Like 5
  • Agree 1
  • Informative/Useful 1
  • Round of applause 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Whilst not wholly relevant to these 4mm builds, the Marsh C3  I designed is currenly also being designed and built in 7mm scale - It isn't a straightforward scaling up of my 4mm design though that can work with some of the lost wax castings. The 7mm model is etched from thicker metal so that affects the etch width of fold lines as well as margins for holes , half etched lines to position frame spacers and so on.

 

The other major visible difference is that the C3 has frame extensions which act effectively as an inner splasher. Because 7mm FS is closer to 4mm EM in proportion rather than 16.5mm 00 scale, the 4mm kit has to have an additional compromise built in to widen the firebox and smokebox saddle to somewhere approaching prototypical visual appearance by extending them sideways outside the frames and thus absorbing part of the first and third driving wheel splasher. This compromise is not required [well, perhaps only a little] in 7mm [or in 4mm EM/P4 for that matter].

 

Anyway, this is what the 7mm footplate/cab/chassis looks like at the moment:

 

C3footplate_Frames7mm.JPG.f34ab008d98f5a63454551d88e32fcc2.JPGThe smokebox, boiler, firebox, backhead and smokebox saddle are 3D printed masters which are currently being cast in polyester resin. Whilst waiting for them, the next stage is to attach the various steps, splasher tops and sandboxes etc to the footplate.

Edited by Arun Sharma
  • Like 5
  • Informative/Useful 2
  • Interesting/Thought-provoking 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
  • RMweb Premium

At last reached the painting stage with the Beattie.  The bunker rear will be Araldited on after the first coat of black is applied, as its too small to paint internally.

The primer shows up any blemishes, there's a bit of filler needed on the boiler barrel.

Vaccuum pipes are PDK brass castings replacing the awful whitemetal parts in the kit.  As expected, the very vulnerable whitemetal guard-irons on the rear buffer beam eventually broke off (well, one broke and the other was snipped) and were replaced with brass.

IMG_8889Small.jpg.2bcd10dec9dc7ef1f1c108ae03f5771f.jpg

 

IMG_8885Small.jpg.7df6ca02314f5ba64fdd175d0dc55a78.jpg

 

IMG_8883Small.jpg.cf7390179504eca948dea4cba6437017.jpg

Edited by DLT
  • Like 9
  • Craftsmanship/clever 6
  • Round of applause 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

The 7mm Marsh C3 is just waiting for the return of its polyester resin backhead-smokebox [and inbetween bits] from CMA-CSL but the chassis is complete with rods mounted - and they worked first time without any tweaking with hole enlargement!

 

The tender as befits a C3 engine in early BR days is from a long scrapped B2X engine.

 

 

a-1.JPG

a-2.JPG

Edited by Arun Sharma
  • Like 8
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium
2 hours ago, DLT said:

At last reached the painting stage with the Beattie. 

 

Lovely job DLT - such an interesting prototype with a very, very long history.

 

Kind regards,

 

30368

  • Like 2
  • Agree 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...