RMweb Premium Popular Post DLT Posted September 6, 2020 Author RMweb Premium Popular Post Share Posted September 6, 2020 (edited) The cab cutout beading warrants a post of its own. The cutout being a symetrical shape is a great help here. I marked the centre point of the beading strip, and the centre of the cab opening at the top. Matching the two points up and starting at the top, carefully bending the strip to fit takes a while, but there is really no shortcut. The photo sequence should explain. Start by matching the centre points Gently solder along the top Carefully bend each side, a bit at a time When satisfied with the positioning, solder a bit at a time, using a minimum amount of solder. NOT like this! When all done, carefully clean up and file the etch-cusp back. You can see I didn't get the vertical curve quite right on this one, but further filing can improve the appearance. On the other side, I bent the vertical curve before I soldered anything on. Starting with the centre points aligned at the top ensures that you end up with the handrail bosses equally spaced in the opening. In theory! Edited September 7, 2022 by DLT 7 13 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Daddyman Posted September 8, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted September 8, 2020 On 06/09/2020 at 20:46, DLT said: Starting with the centre points aligned at the top ensures that you end up with the handrail bosses equally spaced in the opening. In theory! Hmm... yes, I hit on this idea of aligning the centre points a few months ago - and got the same result as you! I suppose tiny differences in the radii of the curves adds up to a misalignment at the end. However, on the loco I was building at least, the misaligned end "rings" didn't matter as they are overscale anyway; all that is needed is a rounded end on the beading. I don't know your prototype and I can't see from internet photos very clearly, but suspect that the rings at the end are also overscale? - meaning that the handrails can be positioned where they should be (spaced off the door aperture with some 15 thou, say), not where the rings want them to be, and then the rings filed off. Am I right in thinking that the beading curves outwards at the end, as the handrails are slightly outboard of the cab sides? I'm quite possibly wrong - I know nothing about these engines. Another useful trick when doing the cab beading is to have a plate of 15 thou (or even thin pcb) the same size as the aperture (minus the beading), with the radii filed on each corner. This helps to really push the beading into the corners. 1 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted September 8, 2020 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted September 8, 2020 Thanks Daddyman, I like your ideas. I used a piece of appropriate diameter rod to push into the corners (actually the handle of a needle-file). The most awkward bit was the vertical curve and its apparent I didn't get this quite right. I haven't done the handrails yet, that's the next bit. Cheers, Dave. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Daddyman Posted September 8, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted September 8, 2020 57 minutes ago, DLT said: The most awkward bit was the vertical curve and its apparent I didn't get this quite right. You can always file any bits that are raised too much, and add bits of wire of the appropriate diameter to any "dips" in the beading. But it looks a good job - and your build as a whole is beautiful. 1 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwealleans Posted September 8, 2020 Share Posted September 8, 2020 4 hours ago, Daddyman said: to have a plate of 15 thou (or even thin pcb) the same size as the aperture (minus the beading), with the radii filed on I use a small screwdriver. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Daddyman Posted September 8, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted September 8, 2020 3 hours ago, jwealleans said: I use a small screwdriver. I'll try anything, Jonathan - it's a job I loathe! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted September 8, 2020 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted September 8, 2020 I've started on the smokebox saddle, trying to scale it from photographs. The supplied etch does not capture it's very distinctive shape, and most of the published drawing don't either. 1 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted September 14, 2020 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted September 14, 2020 (edited) I worked out some approximate dimensions from this photo of 30950 at Eastleigh works. It is a crop from a picture in the Bradford Barton album "Southern Locomotive Survey, The Early Maunsell Classes". Using known dimensions, like the smokebox diameter and the distance between the frames, I produced this sketch: With two pieces of spare etch soldered together I marked and filed the front and rear of the new saddle. Comparison with the supplied etch shows the difference in the inward slope of the saddle. I spoke to a friend who has built the 0-gauge version (which come with a cast saddle) and he reckoned it was another case of an inaccurate drawing published many years ago, and the mistakes subsequently copied and perpetuated over the years, even into kit design. Edited September 7, 2022 by DLT 3 1 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted September 14, 2020 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted September 14, 2020 (edited) The saddle front and rear had to be filed back sufficiently to allow for the thickness of the side peices before soldering to the footplate. The sides themselves were made form a thinner gauge brass, simply bent and filed until they fitted. I left the extra height to aid handling. This photo shows how they slide into place between the frame tops and the saddle front/back. When all fitted, I cut down the height a bit, soldered them in and then filed the height down until the smokebox fitted, and the boiler was horizontal Edited September 7, 2022 by DLT 6 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Popular Post DLT Posted September 14, 2020 Author RMweb Premium Popular Post Share Posted September 14, 2020 (edited) And here is the result; (still with some extra plating to fit) A vast improvement on the etched version as used in the first kit: Edited September 7, 2022 by DLT 9 11 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack P Posted September 14, 2020 Share Posted September 14, 2020 Fantastic Dave, I have been hanging out for this how-to. I'm slowly amassing a list of amendments for my eventual build. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Popular Post DLT Posted September 16, 2020 Author RMweb Premium Popular Post Share Posted September 16, 2020 (edited) To represent the large curved plate that tops the saddle, and the smokebox is bolted to, the kit supplies an etched part, with half-etched holes to push out for the rivets (bolts) Instead I thought it would be simpler to use riveted strips soldered to the underside of the smokebox, that then surround the saddle. This turned out to be a right fiddle, but the finished effect was worth it. Edited September 7, 2022 by DLT 9 13 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted September 27, 2020 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted September 27, 2020 (edited) No updates lately, as doing all the detailing and there's nothing much to see until its done. There are a very nice turned safety valves and whistle in the kit, but Maunsell locos have a much more complex assembly there, I presume the steam turret, with the various take-off valves for the injectors etc. PDK now provide this in their W kit and I've approached them to see if its available as a spare part. Does anyone know of another source for it? Many thanks, Dave. Edited September 7, 2022 by DLT 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack P Posted September 27, 2020 Share Posted September 27, 2020 12 minutes ago, DLT said: No updates lately, as doing all the detailing and there's nothing much to see until its done. There are a very nice turned safety valves and whistle in the kit, but Maunsell locos have a much more complex assembly there, I presume the steam turret, with the various take-off valves for the injectors etc. PDK now provide this in their W kit and I've approached them to see if its available as a spare part. Does anyone know of another source for it? Many thanks, Dave. Dave, If that turret is a Maunsell fitting, then possibly SEF would do it as a spare for their Schools/U/N/W kit too? 2 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 30368 Posted September 27, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted September 27, 2020 Dave?Jack, Or perhaps the SEF "W" 2-6-4T kit ? I'm fairly certain that when Iast looked at my example of the kit, the steam manifold casting was included (another build for the future). I'm sure Dave at SEF will be able to help. Kind regards, Richard B 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted September 28, 2020 Share Posted September 28, 2020 It's probably a LSWR fitting. I'm sure the one on the Z was flatter, with the whistle laying down. I think I have a 7mm fitting, if I can find it I'll post a picture. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Popular Post DLT Posted September 29, 2020 Author RMweb Premium Popular Post Share Posted September 29, 2020 (edited) A few of the detail bits: And hanging on the front end Edited September 7, 2022 by DLT 10 12 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gz3xzf Posted September 29, 2020 Share Posted September 29, 2020 Hi Dave, love the bits all laid out. The front end is really looking good. 2 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted October 8, 2020 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted October 8, 2020 The Z is now heading for the Paintshop, but an interesting situation has arisen. I'm blackening the various bits, but when it came to the driving wheels, nothing was happening. Closer examination and a conversation with Mark at Markits revealed that the tyres are now made of stainless-steel rather than nickel-silver. A while ago there was an extensive discussion topic on metal blackening here on RMweb, but I can't find it now. Please can anyone point me towards it? I would rather discuss it there than on this topic, but does anyone know if its possible to chemically blacken stainless-steel? and if so, is there an "off the shelf" solution for it? Many thanks, Dave. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted October 8, 2020 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted October 8, 2020 I've found the thread I was referring to: https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/56581-metal-blackning-birchwood-casey-or-carrs/ and asked the question there as well. Many thanks, Dave. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold k22009 Posted October 8, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 8, 2020 Dave there's a reply on this thread. Dave 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Popular Post DLT Posted October 13, 2020 Author RMweb Premium Popular Post Share Posted October 13, 2020 (edited) Missing from the kit are the mechanical lubricators, in the photos they look like a square box with a lid and a wheel on the front. Remembering I had some very small etched handwheels stashed in the "that will, come in useful one day" section, I've had a go at making some. The raw materials: a whitemetal sprue, approx 3mm square, left over from (I think) a Peco narrow gauge coach kit, and the set of etched wheels, covers etc. The whitemetal squared-up, a brass "lid" soldered on and the ends drilled: The smallest handwheels soldered to a brass rod: The box cut off the end of the sprue and the handwheel inserted: And that was pretty much it! Being built around the smallest wheel I could find, they are probably a bit overscale: But look better when blackened. Edited September 7, 2022 by DLT 13 11 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted October 23, 2020 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted October 23, 2020 Sorry for lack of updates, but the final detailing is taking FOREVER!!! 2 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Popular Post DLT Posted October 24, 2020 Author RMweb Premium Popular Post Share Posted October 24, 2020 (edited) Ok, current "state of play". Some photos taken in a hurry (poor lighting, wrong white-balance etc) Still a few bits to add: Clack valves (when I'm sure I don't need to remove the boiler again) cab doors, union-link retainer (and shorten the pin) and steam-turret/manifold (on order from SEFinecast) and some last-minute paintwork touch-ups. But you get the drift. Edited September 7, 2022 by DLT 23 13 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted October 24, 2020 Share Posted October 24, 2020 Looking very good 5 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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