RMweb Premium DLT Posted June 16, 2018 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted June 16, 2018 Might be worth going back to page 1 and inserting that at the top of the first post Dave, or in a few pages you're going to struggle to find the index Good point! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bike2steam Posted June 16, 2018 Share Posted June 16, 2018 Well, it's been an excellent 'topic' Dave, you've even been successful in making me feel guilty giving up modelling Southern !! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium BSW01 Posted June 16, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 16, 2018 Dear All, As this thread has now passed 50 pages, I’m struggling to find things on it myself. So here is an index with links, to what has gone before. I hope it is helpful, Dave. Page 1 – S15 - PDK, O2 - SEFinecast, E1/R - Chassis SEFinecast: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/2359-dlts-sr-locos/ Page 1 – 3: W - SEFinecast: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/2359-dlts-sr-locos/ Page 3 – 6: S15 - DJH: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/2359-dlts-sr-locos/page-3 Page 6 – 8: Q - Body SEFinecast: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/2359-dlts-sr-locos/page-6 Page 9: B4 - SEFinecast: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/2359-dlts-sr-locos/page-9 Page 9 – 11: Z - DMR: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/2359-dlts-sr-locos/page-9 11 – 16: U - DJH/SEFinecast/Hornby: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/2359-dlts-sr-locos/page-11 16 – 18: S15 - DJH Rebuild: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/2359-dlts-sr-locos/page-16 18 – 20: A12 Jubilee - Nu-Cast: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/2359-dlts-sr-locos/page-18 21 – 29: 700 - PDK: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/2359-dlts-sr-locos/page-21 29 – 31: O2 - SEFinecast Completed: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/2359-dlts-sr-locos/page-29 31 – 33: E1/R - SEFinecast Completed: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/2359-dlts-sr-locos/page-31 33 – 44: E5X - SEFinecast Conversion: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/2359-dlts-sr-locos/page-33 44 – 53: K10 - EJ Sharp: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/2359-dlts-sr-locos/page-44 Thanks, the list will be very useful as I have some of the above kits to build myself and looking at how you’ve done them may assist me too! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted June 17, 2018 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted June 17, 2018 Well, it's been an excellent 'topic' Dave, you've even been successful in making me feel guilty giving up modelling Southern !! I didn't realise you had ! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted June 25, 2018 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted June 25, 2018 Might be worth going back to page 1 and inserting that at the top of the first post Dave, or in a few pages you're going to struggle to find the index Now done Paul, index is at the top of page 1. Cheers, Dave. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Popular Post Tony Teague Posted June 25, 2018 RMweb Gold Popular Post Share Posted June 25, 2018 I am happy to report that the K10 has been delivered to it's new "Home Shed", and the Shedmaster will issue a report on it's performance in due course. Dave. I am delighted to confirm the arrival of the K10 on Churminster Shed and also to report that it is performing impeccably. I have attached two pictures of it on the Chuminster test train but can advise that since then it has also hauled 12 Hornby Maunsells without wheelslip - excellent performance to match its stunning looks! All thanks to Dave! Tony 28 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack P Posted July 9, 2018 Share Posted July 9, 2018 Hey Dave, may I just ask what thickness of brass you used for the replacement smoke deflector and how you managed the beading? Thanks mate! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted July 9, 2018 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted July 9, 2018 Hi Jack, It was 10thou (0.25mm) brass sheet, and the beading was the thinnest brass wire I could find at the time (0.45mm) The wire was carefully bent to shape while keeping it as flat as possible and soldered on. Then I scraped away as much solder as I could. Cheers, Dave. PS I have now found some 0.3mm wire Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted November 9, 2018 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted November 9, 2018 The T6 class is out of my time period, but a long time ago, and before I had settled on what I was trying to do, I bought an old, second-hand Jidenco kit for a T6 and sent it to an alleged "professional" kit builder. He will remain nameless, but his work was quite appalling - the lining is wiggly, various parts are not straight, it has no weight in it, the central driving wheels are the only ones it picks up through and they don't touch the track because the front bogie is set too high, etc etc! It taught me a lesson, but I have kept it as a sharp reminder that not everyone who advertises a service is capable of delivering on what they say: One day, when I need to let off steam I will perhaps hit it with a sledge hammer! Making a start on Tony's non-working T6. A number of issues with this kit, (which I will list later) but the accumulation of problem made the thing a total dead duck. Its stripped on the workbench at the moment, I'll do some photos later. Cheers, Dave. 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted November 9, 2018 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted November 9, 2018 (edited) Some of the issues with this model come down to poor kit design, others to poor assembly. So: It's got odd driving wheels! Same diameter but different crank-throw (about .5mm) Unfortunately they were mismatched on both sides, so it was never going to run. I can get round this by matching the throws on each side (long throw one side, shorter throw the other) The connecting rods are too long, so the crossheads are jamming against the cylinders, preventing full rotation of the wheels. I can shorten the connecting rods. Slidebars on one side are not parallel, getting closer together towards the cylinder, causing the crosshead to jam between them. Attempt to ease them apart. There's precious little room between the slidebars each side for the bogie to swing. There's about 2mm sideplay on every axle. One of the pickup plates has come adrift. Each of these issues would prevent the loco from running, but taken all together its a dodo. However, none of these problems are insurmountable, indeed some are an easy fix, although the bogie might be more of a challenge. I will report as I go. Cheers, Dave. Edited November 9, 2018 by DLT 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Denbridge Posted November 9, 2018 Share Posted November 9, 2018 Some of the issues with this model come down to poor kit design, others to poor assembly. So: It's got odd driving wheels! Same diameter but different crank-throw (about .5mm) Unfortunately they were mismatched on both sides, so it was never going to run. I can get round this by matching the throws on each side (long throw one side, shorter throw the other) The connecting rods are too long, so the crossheads are jamming against the cylinders, preventing full rotation of the wheels. I can shorten the connecting rods. Slidebars on one side are not parallel, getting closer together towards the cylinder, causing the crosshead to jam between them. Attempt to ease them apart. There's precious little room between the slidebars each side for the bogie to swing. There's about 2mm sideplay on every axle. One of the pickup plates has come adrift. Each of these issues would prevent the loco from running, but taken all together its a dodo. However, none of these problems are insurmountable, indeed some are an easy fix, although the bogie might be more of a challenge. I will report as I go. Cheers, Dave. regarding bogie swing. On my still under construction Adams 4.4.0, I solved the bogie swing issue by making the chassis effectively a 2.6.0 with just the front bogie wheels pivoting. It's barely noticeable and solves the clearance issue perfectly. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted November 9, 2018 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted November 9, 2018 regarding bogie swing. On my still under construction Adams 4.4.0, I solved the bogie swing issue by making the chassis effectively a 2.6.0 with just the front bogie wheels pivoting. It's barely noticeable and solves the clearance issue perfectly. Thanks Denbridge, that would do the trick. The bogie in this kit is pretty minimalist in terms of the amount of metal and structural integrity, so it may be a "start again" job. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandhole Posted November 9, 2018 Share Posted November 9, 2018 I've got a Jidenco T3 to build. It will have the same bogie clearance issues as this beast. I'm going to follow this build very closely!! Chris. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted November 9, 2018 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted November 9, 2018 I've got a Jidenco T3 to build. It will have the same bogie clearance issues as this beast. I'm going to follow this build very closely!! Chris. Hi Chris, And I will be interested to follow yours! This one is more of a "get out of jail" project than a new construction, but is proving interesting already. Cheers, Dave. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted November 9, 2018 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted November 9, 2018 So far so good, we have a rolling chassis! I shortened the connecting rods by cutting off the big-end and soldering it back on on top of the rod. Then simply drilled through the crankpin hole again. Result, rod shorter by about 2mm, and a more three-dimensional big-end, rather than the flat etch. The photos should explain. Thus the crosshead is no longer hitting the front of the cylinder. Cheers, Dave. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted November 10, 2018 Share Posted November 10, 2018 In 4mm Dave I always pivoted the bogie on or just behind the rear axle. If you then put an arched slot for the central fixing screw, it can either be sprung or used as the point of the triangle for compensation. Which is my preferred method for 0-4-4 or 4-4-0s. I was going to scratch build a T6 in 7mm, but will instead be going for an X6. Watching with interest. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted November 13, 2018 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted November 13, 2018 Pickups have been sorted, gearbox cleaned up, lubricated and fitted, and I'm happy to report that the T6 now runs under power. Probably for the first time! Now I need to file down the gearbox sides so that it fits in the frames without hitting the pickup plates. Which was probably what knocked them off in the first place... Cheers, Dave 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Tony Teague Posted November 13, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 13, 2018 Pickups have been sorted, gearbox cleaned up, lubricated and fitted, and I'm happy to report that the T6 now runs under power. Probably for the first time! Now I need to file down the gearbox sides so that it fits in the frames without hitting the pickup plates. Which was probably what knocked them off in the first place... Cheers, Dave I'm just amazed! I had totally written this loco off! Tony 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted November 13, 2018 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted November 13, 2018 I'm just amazed! I had totally written this loco off! I like a challenge! 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted November 13, 2018 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted November 13, 2018 Gearbox now slides between the frames, so the motor sits low enough for the body to be fitted. This exposed another issue, the crossheads now foul the footsteps. Comparison with photos shows that the steps have been fitted too far inboard on the model. I should be able to move them outwards to create enough clearance behind them. Cheers, Dave. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Tony Teague Posted November 14, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 14, 2018 Gearbox now slides between the frames, so the motor sits low enough for the body to be fitted. This exposed another issue, the crossheads now foul the footsteps. Comparison with photos shows that the steps have been fitted too far inboard on the model. I should be able to move them outwards to create enough clearance behind them. Cheers, Dave. Could you perhaps list the things that were done right on this build (if any!)? It might be a shorter list! Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold PaulRhB Posted November 14, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 14, 2018 1. They started with the right kit. 2. Er . . . Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted November 15, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 15, 2018 1. They started with the right kit. 2. Er . . . 2 - It's now been given to Dave. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted November 15, 2018 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted November 15, 2018 Footsteps removed. The top bit of the etch had been bent the wrong way (outwards instead of inwards) so the steps were too far behind the valence. On one set I managed to bend them the other way(hardly any solder on them) but the other one I had to file off. Anyway, now refitted to the loco, tucked neatly behind the valence and fixed with a blob of 145-degree solder. Crossheads now free to travel. Next...! 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted November 15, 2018 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted November 15, 2018 And the next is.... The splasher boxes inside the cab. On one side the driving wheel flange is scraping the top of the box. A quick look shows that the boxes are different heights, and one is too low.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now