RMweb Premium DLT Posted January 14, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 14, 2016 (edited) The smokebox is done, a riveted strip of brass wrapped around with lots of bending filing, packing and aralditing. I filed up a new smokebox frontplate as well, as even with the whitemetal part in place the smokebox was still a bit short. Cheers, Dave. Edited September 5, 2022 by DLT 9 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted January 17, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 17, 2016 Just spent a disproportionate amount of time doing the handrails. Seeing that they are in three separate pieces, one each side and one on the smokebox front, I thought it would be simpler than bending up the usual one-piece job. It wasn't! If anything it was more fiddly than usual. Dave. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigbadbadge Posted January 19, 2016 Share Posted January 19, 2016 Hi Dave What fantastic work, I have been catching up with your thread (about half way through now). Very inspirational stuff. I have recently got into building loco kits and am concentrating on the easier 0-4-4, 0-6-0 locos at the mo, that way the valve gear isn't as scary. Also model Southern (SECR and LBSC locos in the Ashford/New Romney areas). Along with a new project 1/32nd scale narrow gauge and have therefore been checking out your NG layouts too with much interest (as going to have a go at my first loco for that too). Keep up the great work and I will catch up with the rest soon. Thanks for sharing All the best Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted January 20, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 20, 2016 Thanks very much Chris. Glad to hear you are getting into loco building, it can be very rewarding if a tad frustrating at times, but its great to be able to look back and say "I built that". Do you a thread running on your modelling, or on your narrow gauge project? Cheers, Dave. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted January 20, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 20, 2016 (edited) Starting to look like a loco now, with most of the pipework and boiler fittings done. The boiler is not fixed to the footplate, and everything is balanced in place for the photos at the moment, I want to make sure its all correct before I start glue-ing. Quick tip, if your loco has a handrail fixed to the front face of the tanks, make sure you drill the holes BEFORE you fix the splashers in place..... Cheers, Dave. Edited September 5, 2022 by DLT 13 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
number6 Posted January 20, 2016 Share Posted January 20, 2016 Dave Lovely and neat handrail and pipe runs there - is the larger one is held on with split pins? Interesting locos these - I've always thought they look like the aftermath of a heavy shunt: trailing axle seems close to the rear driver and the abrupt change of design at the bunker - the appearance of which makes them all the more interesting. The original E1 was one of the most unremarkable and 'ordinary' designs from Brighton. best Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted January 20, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 20, 2016 Thanks very much. Yes the ejector pipe has splitpins where it meets the boiler, but the union t the smokebox end is ring of brass wire soldered on. The handrails aren't quite right yet; the holes in the tanktops need to be drilled a bit more so that the knobs sit lower. And I really should replace the clack-valves with Romfords. Cheers, Dave. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigbadbadge Posted January 20, 2016 Share Posted January 20, 2016 Hi Dave I have sent you a PM to save taking up your thread. All the bestChris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted January 25, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 25, 2016 (edited) Started on the cab roof; I knew there was a problem, as the whitemetal part just didn't look right when compared to photos. I curved up a Nickel-silver overlay which looks fine, but when I fitted it another probelm appeared. It took a while realise that the cab cutouts are too big and too high as there should be more cabside between the opening and the roof. Making the cab opening bigger is quite straightforward, but making it smaller is not! What I resolved to do was fill it in completely and start again. I filed up whitemetal blanks to fill the hole and araldited them in place. I used araldite as I was going to have to solder the new beading in place, and the extra soldering would be too close for comfort. While this was hardening I had a look at the bufferbeams. The whitemetal casting was very plain with a mould line going right across the middle So it was a piece of brass, a digital caliper and a riveting tool, plus a front-on photograph for guidance. The riveting pattern is an approximation, but I think it looks ok. Cheers, Dave. Edited September 5, 2022 by DLT 8 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted January 26, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 26, 2016 (edited) New cab beading was bent up from .45 brass wire, tinned with normal solder and fixed to the cabside (in the correct position) with low-melt solder. Then the new opening was then drilled, cutout, and filed back to shape. At the same time I filed a chamfer on the back of cab opening to reduce the apparent thickness of the cabsides The ends of the cab beading were left long to provide a soldered support for the handrails (next job) Cheers, Dave. Edited September 5, 2022 by DLT 4 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigbadbadge Posted January 26, 2016 Share Posted January 26, 2016 Great fix Dave, very innovative, looking good. All the bestChris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted January 27, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 27, 2016 (edited) Well that was a fiddle! Bending the beading around the top ends of the handrails and soldering it all up was a lot slower and more fiddly than doing the beading in the first place! Anyway its done, and I think it was well worth the effort. The roof is only plonked on for the photo, so its a bit offline. Cheers, Dave. Edited September 5, 2022 by DLT 14 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RAY NORWOOD Posted January 28, 2016 Share Posted January 28, 2016 Looking fantastic Dave. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted January 31, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 31, 2016 Thanks Ray. After all that, finishing the cab roof was a bit of a doddle! I'm at the "sticking on fiddly detail" stage, (lamp-irons etc.) and I'll take some more photos when that's all done. I'm going to have to call a halt to this loco breifly, in order to get Bridport ready for the Eurotrack show. The layout hasn't been out since last March so will be getting a bit cobwebby. Cheers, Dave. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted February 8, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 8, 2016 (edited) That's pretty much all the sticking on of bits I can do before painting, so here are some photos in bare metal state. I've used the supplied buffers as they are rather good castings, but I think they may be a tad on the large side. The clack-valves definitely need replacing I shan't be updating this project for a little while, as I mentioned earlier. Cheers for now, Dave. Edited September 5, 2022 by DLT 18 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RAY NORWOOD Posted February 10, 2016 Share Posted February 10, 2016 Fantastic work on this one Dave, I can't wait to see for the paint work. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
GWR Neal Posted March 2, 2016 Share Posted March 2, 2016 Dave, what tool do you use when cutting the brass sheet to desired shape? thanks, Geoff Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted May 6, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted May 6, 2016 I will be cranking this thread back into action shortly. Cheers, Dave. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted May 12, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted May 12, 2016 The E1/R is painted and ready for a start on the dreaded lining! I'll get some photos up later. Dave. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted May 14, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted May 14, 2016 (edited) Painted all over with Halfords matt-black, bufferbeams brushed in red, and cab interior in cream. That's all for now, Dave. Edited September 5, 2022 by DLT 10 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajt Posted May 16, 2016 Share Posted May 16, 2016 Above and beyond with that one Dave! I have to remove and redo the cab beading on a 7mm P class but I just can't bring myself to do it, never mind filling the cab opening in and redoing it like you have. At least I know I'll never buy another white metal kit. Horrible things. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted May 22, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted May 22, 2016 (edited) That's the lining done at last, and carefully painted over with Humbrol matt varnish. We wondered about bothering with the splasher lining, as in many of the photos I've seen its completely obscured by muck. Glad I've done it though, as it finishes it off. Number wise, Southern modellers get through large quantities of 3, 1, and 0. So 32697 is a useful number, it uses up a lot of left over figures on the sheet. Still plenty to do; weathering, and lots of detail bits to add. Cheers, Dave. Edited September 5, 2022 by DLT 14 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted May 23, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted May 23, 2016 Looking at the photos, I definitely need to swap those pony wheels for Gibsons. Dave. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
number6 Posted May 23, 2016 Share Posted May 23, 2016 The splasher lining looks like a right devil with the reverse curve - I struggle with the tiny Terrier splasher which is just a simple radius. So kudos to you. Agreed, the wheel looks like it belongs on a platforrm barrow or something! The SR number transfer sheet conundrum could be sorted with cross border exchange - any LMR modellers want to meet at Mitre Bridge to swap a bunch of 4s for 3s? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted May 23, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted May 23, 2016 (edited) The splasher lining looks like a right devil with the reverse curve - I struggle with the tiny Terrier splasher which is just a simple radius. So kudos to you. Agreed, the wheel looks like it belongs on a platforrm barrow or something! The SR number transfer sheet conundrum could be sorted with cross border exchange - any LMR modellers want to meet at Mitre Bridge to swap a bunch of 4s for 3s? Splasher lining was certainly awkward, but I'm getting better at it! Good thought about the numbers. Does anyone know what the inside of an E1/R cab looks like? There's a very nice backhead casting in the kit, but no reverser or handbrake. I can't see these in any of the photos either. Cheers, Dave. Edited May 23, 2016 by DLT Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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