How to fix down N Gauge track?

[Mick Bonwick]

I have laid N Gauge track on Gaugemaster ballasted underlay and would now like to fix it down to the baseboard. Can somebody please advise me on the best way to do this? I have used Peco track pins on 00 Gauge track but they seem too large for use with N Gauge track. I have searched for a thread on this subject but am obviously not sufficiently familiar with the way tht RMWeb searches operate, because my searches produced nothing.

[Kris]

Don't nail it down, use glue. I'm not sure what will stick the gaugemaster underlay, but I would assume that PVA may well.

[Mick Bonwick]

Don't nail it down, use glue. I'm not sure what will stick the gaugemaster underlay, but I would assume that PVA may well.

Thanks, Kris. Would you stick the underlay down to the baseboard and then stick the track into the underlay?

[bennyboy]

Buy the SL-14 track pins and not the larger ST 280 ones which you seem to be using at the moment.

[Kris]

Thanks, Kris. Would you stick the underlay down to the baseboard and then stick the track into the underlay?

 

Personally I wouldn't use underlay, I don't like it (personal choice that bit). It I were to use it though, I would stick the underlay first (but would have all the track placed). If you nail the track down you tend to compress the underlay giving poor track work, not something that you want.

 

 

 

[Karhedron]

I would also avoid underlay. Even the toughest stuff is based on foam and will tend to degrade over time. Peco underlay is well known for turning to dust within 10 years. The gaugemaster stuff is based on much heavier foam and may last better but I do not trust the stuff myself.

 

For laying N gauge track the best advice is to use copydex or some similar latex-based adhesive. It has the advantage of remaining slightly flexible when dry. Also if you find you need to lift a section this can be done by warming for a while with a hairdryer. Once it is heated, the track can be peeled off without damage to either it or the baseboard.

 

The usual method is to test-lay the track and then use a pencil to mark out where the track will go. Spread copydex liberally and lay the track onto it. If the track needs holding in place laterally then tap some track pin into the baseboard on either side of the track but not through the sleepers. The weight the track down with books or something and leave to dry. Once the glue is dry the pins can be removed. Then ballast as normal.

[Edwin_m]

I've had Gaugemaster N gauge underlay down for five years or so with no sign of deterioration. It is coated with real stone and gives a reasonable impression of modern high-speed track, though less so for older track or sidings where there is no real shoulder on the ballast.

 

The sleeper spacing on the underlay is less than that of the track so you can't lay the underlay first. I found it was best to run a bead of PVA along the underside of the middle of the track so a blob settles on each sleeper, then feed the underlay on to it a bit at a time. Then draw a guideline along the board to line up with one edge of the underlay and lay a thick bead of PVA along the centreline of the track. The underlay and track together can then be placed carefully in position - there is a bit of scope to adjust it before leaving it to set.

 

With care the underlay can be lifted from the board with the help of a chisel. If you use non-waterproof PVA then it may be possible to separate the track by soaking it, but I've never tried this.

[Dave777]

I used tiny screws from Homebase - scroll down a bit here and you'll see them:

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php/topic/7509-elwood-east-n-gauge-1970s/page__view__findpost__p__161434

 

Screw them down carefully so as not to spread the sleepers and you can adjust and modify the track as much as you like. Once ballasted with your chosen ballast/PVA/water mix you simply remove the screws (the ballast holds everything in place).

 

 

[Etched Pixels]

Underlay can be made to last - some of the Z scale stuff I've done used underlay (you try ballasting Z scale track !) which was then liberally fed glue and paint.

 

I'd also be cautious about track pins in N except where they are really needed - fewer is good and not banged in hard enough to stop the track sitting level. Track glued with PVA to the underlay and then PVA to the board will usually be more than sufficient. Use neat PVA not water/pva mixes - unlike scenic work you don't want the glue to go right through the underlay if you are trying to deaden sound as it'll simply turn the whole lot into a rock. You may still need track pins a short distance from motorised pointwork but any other pinning can usually be temporary and removed once the glue sets.