mikethekiwi Posted August 27, 2010 Share Posted August 27, 2010 Hello All, I am starting a small layout to try out various techniques, and have decided to base it on Ian Morton's Shake-the-box layout as described in Hornby magazine. I am puzzled by some lettering on the wiring diagram ( http://www.shake-the-box.info/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=61&Itemid=65 ) the "DS" "HC" and "Q". Could someone decipher these for me (or as I am on the other side of the world, should I simply stnd on my head to read them?) Oh, and supplemntary question if I may. I am taken with the idea of diodes at the end of sidings to prevent errant locos heading off into the sunset,, or even worse, on to the kitchen floor! Is there a simple equivalent for DCC? thanks in advance for help. Mchael Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ian Posted August 27, 2010 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 27, 2010 DS = Double straight, HC = Half curve Q = Quarter straight - they are the 'non-standard' track pieces and are nothing to do with the electrics, honest! Unfortunately there is no equivalent to the diode safety stop on DCC. Sorry. Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikethekiwi Posted August 27, 2010 Author Share Posted August 27, 2010 Thanks for the quick reply Ian. regards Michael Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prof Klyzlr Posted August 29, 2010 Share Posted August 29, 2010 Unfortunately there is no equivalent to the diode safety stop on DCC. Sorry. Ian ... which is one of the reasons that a simple dumb-timer shuttle can be accomplished on analog far easier and cheaper than it can on DCC... Remember, NMRA S9 says "Right Rail = Positive Voltage = Forward movement" Happy Modelling, Aim to Improve, Prof Klyzlr PS The NMRA DCC spec does provide for "stop on DC" IE - a loco under DCC control passes onto a section of track with regular DC voltage on it - sensing the "disappearance" of the DCC control data, it comes to a stop, after obeying it's momentum CV behaviour - and should "restart" if/when the DC voltage is removed, and replaced with valid DCC data again This is _kind-of_ what you are looking for, but requires - active detectors - a DC voltage source - and some active switching to swap the signal-to-the-rails from DCC > DC > DCC as required. (not to mention somehow changing the "direction" packets in the DCC data stream) Alternatively, you could restrict yourself to - the digitraxx DCC system (and spend a huge # of $$$$) - and pickup a CML "black box" to do the smart stuff http://www.cmlelectronics.co.uk/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=107:connecting-sensors-to-a-dss1-locoshuttle&catid=48:howtosequence&Itemid=98 OR - set all of your DCC locos to a common address (which kinda defeats the purpose of DCC's main party trick, being independent control of each loco directly), - and do as Fred Miller has done with a DigiTrax UT1 "buddy throttle" http://fnbcreations.net/Articles/UT1MODS.pdf My vote? Stick with analog DC and the diodes Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mallard Posted September 2, 2010 Share Posted September 2, 2010 The diode trick is great, but what happens if your beautiful new stanier 2-6-4T is running into the diode protected track in reverse. Not uncommen in a point to point. Kitchen floor perhaps.????. BobM Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penlan Posted September 2, 2010 Share Posted September 2, 2010 DS = Double straight, HC = Half curve Q = Quarter straight - they are the 'non-standard' track pieces ...Ian I will store that one ready then Ian..... and the bit about the Diodes. Penlan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ian Posted September 2, 2010 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 2, 2010 I will store that one ready then Ian..... and the bit about the Diodes. Penlan It's OK Penlan - the STB layout doesn't use anything high-tech like DCC or diodes - that is just people trying to gild the lilly. Don't forget folks - STB is at the Kernow/YMR exhibition in Camborne this weekend with either Penlan or myself on the controls. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest baldrick25 Posted September 2, 2010 Share Posted September 2, 2010 If its absolutely necessay to stop a loco heading to the floor, make the last 12-18 inches at the end of the siding isolated, ie cut a narrow insulated gap in one rail ( not needed to do both) . Then a remote 'press to make' switch connected across the gap will stop the runaway , unless its intentional and you hold the switch closed . Not very elegant , but if its a £100 worth of loco or an emergency stop , then I know which I would choose. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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