Darjeeling and Himalaya Visit

[Claude_Dreyfus]

I have just returned from a trip out to India (and Bhutan) organised by 'Great Railway Journeys'. One of the highlights was a few days staying in the hill station of Darjeeling and having a couple of journeys on the famous Darjeeling and Himalaya Railway. The full itinerary started in Kolkata, before we moved up to the north of the country by way of the Vande Bharat Express. Following Darjeeling the trip continued to Bhutan - no railways 😉 - before heading back to Kolkata.

 

I thought I would share a few pictures, as well as a brief account of our travels...

 

Day 1 -  Kurseong - Darjeeling.

 

 

The journey from Siliguri to Kurseong was made by car, winding up the steep mountain sides covered with tea plantations, oak and larch trees. As we climbed, the cloud descended, clocking the entire area with a thick mist. I did worry that the entire journey would be made under a thick blanket of cloud, but as we got to Kurseong the cloud lifted a little and things became a bit clearer.

 

Kurseong station is an interesting arrangement, effectively forming a siding from the main running line. On the day we travelled, the line from Kurseong to New Jalpaiguri was closed due to flooding, so Kurseong was the starting point.

 

The yard beside the station had a few carriages stabled, along with one of the line's 'NDM6' Class diesel locomotives, number 603. This transpired to be our steed for the journey to Darjeeling.

 

One of the defining traits of the D&H is its street running, and otherwise close proximity to the main road to Darjeeling. And the road in question was not some lightly used wayside...

 

How to navigate that lot?

 

Close to the appointed departure time, 603 hauled its single carriage from the siding and into the station. As Kurseong is a siding station, off the main running line in the direction of New Jalpaiguri, some manoeuvring was needed to get the loco to the correct end of the train for the journey to Darjeeling. That involved the loco running round and then propelling its train into the melee above before leading us up the mountain. 

 

 

It appears the station is also used as a car park, for the local police force as it happens. 603 was detached and headed off to run round. Both the 4x4 and the police bus were moved to allow the loco to pass...

 

Spot the loco!

 

Once run round, the loco coupled up (clearly a spectator sport) and our diminutive train was ready to leave. 

 

The route from Kurseong is somewhat torturous; with a tight curvature, steep gradients and a knack of running extremely close to the road.

 

 

 

As can be seen, the sky was starting to clear.

 

And thence to Ghum, the main intermediate station on our journey (there were two others, at Tung and Sonada, but these were basically halts in the middle of a small town - Tung station was on the opposite side o the road to the track!). Ghum also holds the record for the highest altitude station in India at 7,407 ft.

 

We waited a while to allow two other services to arrive - Ghum is the end of the journey for most of the services from Darjeeling. The light was fading now as the journey was rather slow. The distance of just under 20 miles took around 3 hours...

 

After a pause to witness diesel number 600 and steam loco 804 arrive, we headed on down to Darjeeling. The decent was as steep as the climb into Ghum before arriving at the attractive station in Darjeeling under the cover of darkness.

 

So, that was the first day completed. We then went to our hotel for the night, with the promise of another trip on the line the following day; this time back to Ghum and hauled by one of their steam locomotives. 

 

Edited 11 hours ago by Claude_Dreyfus

[Claude_Dreyfus]

Day 2 - Darjeeling - Ghum.

 

The route from Darjeeling to Ghum is just over 3 miles, but like the Kurseong route full of fearsome gradients and tight curves. 

 

To me, there is something very art deco to Darjeeling station, perched as it is on the hillside. The town of Darjeeling is, as its geography dictates, a very linear town, long and narrow with steep streets and commanding views; when the weather allows!

 

The diesels tend to be stabled around the station area, their depot is further down the line (although there is a covered area for a single loco), but the steam shed is in Darjeeling itself; opposite the station, separated by the main road. That morning had a nice variety of motive power on show...

 

 

 

 

 

The first loco to its train was diesel number 600, which emerged from its small covered area, and join its train.

 

 

One thing I quickly realised is there appears to be no such thing as a trespasser on Indian railways, the D&H included. The track is a right of way for all, people, vehicles and animals! The roads in India are notorious for the use for the horn, and the D&H is no different, in fact the loco have special extra loud whistles to be heard over the collective racket of the traffic (the horns can be heard from miles away). This concept of general access explains some of the photo angles I was able to obtain...

 

 Then came the main event...

 

Loco 805 bustles onto its short train of two carriages, ready for the slog up to Ghum. 

 

The D&H B Class 0-4-0 is a marvel of engineering. The design dates form the 19th century, but this particularly loco celebrates its centenary next year. They are diminutive, but feisty beasts and I was immediately taken with them.

 

Hitched up to its train, and we were off. The embarkation of an hour of pure entertainment. 

 

We got alarmingly close to that petrol station!

 

As can be seen, the route was enclosed by the surrounding houses. This acted as an echo chamber, accentuating the staccato beat of the little engine and amplifying the sound of its whistle. The engine itself wasn't hugely efficient with its coal consumption, throwing lumps of cinders from its chimney and scatting them across the street, passers-by and any passenger foolhardy enough to stick their head out of the window (which too was permitted).

 

On the journey was a 15 minute stop on one of the famous loops. This one was the Batasia Loop, surrounding the Ghurkha memorial. The majority of the more remote spiral loops were further down the line, It did however, give a nice photo opportunity.

 

 

 

And thence to Ghum, where we left the train. A nice little bit of decadence built into the itinerary was an hour at Ghum station to wait for our vehicle collection. An hour dedicated to waiting at a station whilst they serviced the steam engine prior to its return! Plenty of self indulgence with the camera, as well an opportunity to closely examine and appreciate the little workhorse...