RMweb Gold chuffinghell Posted June 30 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 30 (edited) OO gauge GWR wagon kits T3 Signal Dept wagon for £25 CC2 Tool Van for £30 CC7 Signal Dept Van for £35 Prices above includes bearings, Alan Gibson wheels & H&A steel buffer heads CC2 (as supplied) Postage (within the UK) 1 wagon £5 2 or more postage is free Discounts Any three less £10 off the total (inc free postage) I don’t supply the transfers myself but @railtec-models have produced me some specific for my wagon kits Transfers CC2 https://www.railtec-models.com/showitem.php?id=10754 CC7 https://www.railtec-models.com/showitem.php?id=11053 T3 https://www.railtec-models.com/showitem.php?id=11323 I print them as and when required but they are done in my spare time so it normally takes about 2-3 weeks allowing for printing, curing and trimming etc. Available with either a dovetail socket for NEM pockets (left) or a larger slot in the buffer beam to suit Slaters 3 link couplings (right) CC2 CC7 T3 Edited July 2 by chuffinghell 9 2 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hmrspaul Posted July 1 Share Posted July 1 CC2 https://PaulBartlett.zenfolio.com/gwrvans/e2760b78 and details CC7 https://PaulBartlett.zenfolio.com/gwrvans/e1dc094a5 Paul 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold chuffinghell Posted July 1 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted July 1 (edited) 14 minutes ago, hmrspaul said: CC2 https://PaulBartlett.zenfolio.com/gwrvans/e2760b78 and details CC7 https://PaulBartlett.zenfolio.com/gwrvans/e1dc094a5 Paul Thanks Paul All my information was taken from GWR Goods Wagons by Tourret, R.,Beard, W.,Atkins, A. G. So I’m unable to post the photos taken from the book due to copyright etc Chris Edited July 1 by chuffinghell Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hmrspaul Posted July 2 Share Posted July 2 Have you done the smaller CC1, one of which was quite well photographed as it stood opposite a platform at Cardiff General? https://PaulBartlett.zenfolio.com/gwrvans/e1e3f67f Finding the CC2 at Llanwern BSC was unexpected! Apparently made it to a heritage railway http://www.ws.rhrp.org.uk/ws/WagonInfo.asp?Ref=10348 Paul 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Siberian Snooper Posted July 2 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 2 Just a quick question, do you print the brake rigging for the desired gauge or is it generic? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold chuffinghell Posted July 2 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted July 2 (edited) 39 minutes ago, Siberian Snooper said: Just a quick question, do you print the brake rigging for the desired gauge or is it generic? Currently the brake rigging is designed for OO gauge, however, I could easily alter my drawings to suit if the brake rigging needed to be moved out for EM for example, if that helps? I have no experience with EM or P4 so I may need assistance with the dimensions required (I suspect it’s not just a simple matter of increasing the distance between the brake gear) but otherwise I don’t see a problem There would be a bit of work to do alternating the drawings and then re-slicing the file for printing but it wouldn't cost you any extra, I’d just ask for a little extra time to make the alternations Chris Hope that has answered your question unless I’ve completely misunderstood (which is highly likely) Edited July 2 by chuffinghell 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Enterprisingwestern Posted July 2 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 2 26 minutes ago, chuffinghell said: Currently the brake rigging is designed for OO gauge, however, I could easily alter my drawings to suit if the brake rigging needed to be moved out for EM for example, if that helps? I have no experience with EM or P4 so I may need assistance with the dimensions required (I suspect it’s not just a simple matter of increasing the distance between the brake gear) but otherwise I don’t see a problem Chris Hope that has answered your question unless I’ve completely misunderstood (which is highly likely) I don't know about the practicalities of it from your end, but, as an EM modeller, separate brake rigging moulding would be my preference. Mike. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Siberian Snooper Posted July 2 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 2 2 hours ago, chuffinghell said: Currently the brake rigging is designed for OO gauge, however, I could easily alter my drawings to suit if the brake rigging needed to be moved out for EM for example, if that helps? I have no experience with EM or P4 so I may need assistance with the dimensions required (I suspect it’s not just a simple matter of increasing the distance between the brake gear) but otherwise I don’t see a problem There would be a bit of work to do alternating the drawings and then re-slicing the file for printing but it wouldn't cost you any extra, I’d just ask for a little extra time to make the alternations Chris Hope that has answered your question unless I’ve completely misunderstood (which is highly likely) Thanks for your reply and pm. Looking at your underside photo, I would say that moving out the brake gear by 0.5mm each side of the centre-lineshould be OK. P/S4 would need a tad more. I would be interested in a CC2. Many thanks. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold chuffinghell Posted July 2 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted July 2 1 hour ago, Siberian Snooper said: Thanks for your reply and pm. Looking at your underside photo, I would say that moving out the brake gear by 0.5mm each side of the centre-lineshould be OK. P/S4 would need a tad more. I would be interested in a CC2. Many thanks. No problem moving the brake gear for either EM or P4 just requires a little time modifying the drawings and re-slicing the model 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
GMKAT7 Posted July 3 Share Posted July 3 Good afternoon Chris, How do I go about ordering please? Is via a PM to yourself? Having seen the CC7 on Little Muddle I fancy one of those plus the T3 wagon. Is there space on the T3 underframe to add any weight please? TIA. Cheers, Nigel. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold chuffinghell Posted July 3 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted July 3 (edited) 2 hours ago, GMKAT7 said: Good afternoon Chris, How do I go about ordering please? Is via a PM to yourself? Having seen the CC7 on Little Muddle I fancy one of those plus the T3 wagon. Is there space on the T3 underframe to add any weight please? TIA. Cheers, Nigel. Hi Nigel, thanks for your interest Just send me a PM As for weight I’m planning on using Deluxe Materials liquid gravity and Hot Rocket glue on mine as I feel this would be the easiest way but I’m sure with a little careful cutting lead sheet could be glued in the many spaces….I’m just lazy 😆 I don’t have a photo to hand of the underside with the floor fitted but this might give you an idea of the spaces available Chris Edited July 3 by chuffinghell 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sdh-stbriavels Posted July 6 Share Posted July 6 Hi Chris I too would like to buy a CC7. Excuse my ignorance but how do I send you a PM? Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold chuffinghell Posted July 6 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted July 6 Hi Simon Sorry I couldn’t reply sooner, PM sent Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Enterprisingwestern Posted July 7 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 7 What type of resin have you used, has it got a degree of resilience?, I'm getting very wary of some 3d printed models due to their resemblance to Brandy Snaps! Mike. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Hodgson Posted July 7 Share Posted July 7 3 hours ago, Enterprisingwestern said: What type of resin have you used, has it got a degree of resilience?, I'm getting very wary of some 3d printed models due to their resemblance to Brandy Snaps! Mike. I think you'll find they don't taste as good ! 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold chuffinghell Posted July 7 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted July 7 (edited) 3 hours ago, Enterprisingwestern said: What type of resin have you used, has it got a degree of resilience?, I'm getting very wary of some 3d printed models due to their resemblance to Brandy Snaps! Mike. Hi Mike I use a high definition water washable resin True that once cured they are quite brittle, in as much as it is very easy to snap bits off if handled roughly But if you are referring to normal use they are fine Most damage is caused when removing the supports after the models have been cured, however, removing the supports is a long, tedious and annoying process…..which you don’t have to do because I do it post-curing Chris If anyone more articulate than myself has one of my kits would like to comment it may help to answer your question much better Edited July 7 by chuffinghell 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Hodgson Posted July 7 Share Posted July 7 33 minutes ago, chuffinghell said: Hi Mike I use a high definition water washable resin True that once cured they are quite brittle, in as much as it is very easy to snap bits off if handled roughly But if you are referring to normal use they are fine Most damage is caused when removing the supports after the models have been cured, however, removing the supports is a long, tedious and annoying process…..which you don’t have to do because I do it post-curing Chris If anyone more articulate than myself has one of my kits would like to comment it may help to answer your question much better I have the CC7 van, lovely kit (if kit is the right word for so few parts & requiring little work!) of an unusual prototype - something I'd be unlikely to have any other way. Yes, the material is brittle, but the bodywork is noticeably thicker than your average RTR or injection moulded wagon and feels robust. I think that's the explanation of why some models don't come out strong enough in 3D printing, though Chris's choice of resin is obviously also relevant. I don't see a problem with this one as long as you don't anything stupid like dropping it on the floor. The NEM mounts are on the tight side and at one end when fitting the coupling I managed to break the mount by applying too much force to the Tension Lock - my fault, I should have done a little work with a file. But as I don't anticipate wanting to remove couplings in favour of some other type of coupling, I resolved the problem with glue. Very pleased with it, and even though GWR Departmental stock is very much Rule 1 for me, I would be ordering the other two wagons as well if I hadn't already overspent my modelling budget recently. 1 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold chuffinghell Posted July 7 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted July 7 4 hours ago, Michael Hodgson said: The NEM mounts are on the tight side and at one end when fitting the coupling I managed to break the mount by applying too much force to the Tension Lock When you originally mentioning the tightness of the dovetail I changed the drawings I was also made aware of the steps being a little delicate so I have since changed these too I do listen 😊 2 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Enterprisingwestern Posted July 8 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 8 14 hours ago, chuffinghell said: I do listen 😊 We'll make a manufacturer out of you yet, although we may have to beat that trait out of you!! Mike. 1 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 57xx Posted July 27 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 27 On 07/07/2024 at 11:20, chuffinghell said: True that once cured they are quite brittle, in as much as it is very easy to snap bits off if handled roughly If anyone more articulate than myself has one of my kits would like to comment it may help to answer your question much better The bits that I ended up breaking (one brake hanger and the steps) were due to me being ham fisted. Both were easily repairable with a spot of superglue. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold chuffinghell Posted July 28 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted July 28 20 hours ago, 57xx said: The bits that I ended up breaking (one brake hanger and the steps) were due to me being ham fisted. Both were easily repairable with a spot of superglue. The rods between the V hangers are now pre-installed… ….and the steps have also been ‘beefed’ up a little 4 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold chuffinghell Posted July 28 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted July 28 I’ve decided to attempt an O gauge version of the CC2 just for fun 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
w124bob Posted August 2 Share Posted August 2 On 28/07/2024 at 17:49, chuffinghell said: I’ve decided to attempt an O gauge version of the CC2 just for fun Well I'd be interested, where do I find more details of your kits? Got here via Little Muddle so I'm quite confused! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold chuffinghell Posted August 2 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted August 2 16 hours ago, w124bob said: Well I'd be interested, where do I find more details of your kits? Got here via Little Muddle so I'm quite confused! All the kits currently available are as listed on the first page of this thread For more information please feel free to send me a PM Chris 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now