Removing Weathering

[meatloaf]

Hi all

 

Just picked up a preowned Hornby 08 with sound. Paid a really decent price for it mainly becasue its been really heavilly weathered. Its not to my taste to be honest so is there a way to remove it without taking the original paint / numbers / decals off as well?

[Paul H Vigor]

1 hour ago, meatloaf said:

Hi all

 

Just picked up a preowned Hornby 08 with sound. Paid a really decent price for it mainly becasue its been really heavilly weathered. Its not to my taste to be honest so is there a way to remove it without taking the original paint / numbers / decals off as well?

Some photos of the loco might help us assess what kind of weathering has been applied? 

[Gilbert]

16 minutes ago, Paul H Vigor said:

Some photos of the loco might help us assess what kind of weathering has been applied? 

You beat me to it...

 

[meatloaf]

Thank you i think ive managed to upload them

[DCB]

Basically it's a horrible mess, just buy a replacement body.  If you  can't source one then start by replacing the glazing and remember the windscreen wipers clear the crud off the windows.    I have de weathered locos with T cut cutting polish on a cotton bud to get a more realistic appearance but once the glazing is rendered opaque it's no further use.

[young37215]

It is hard to tell what paint, acrylic or enamel, has been used. If it is enamel then a 30 minute bath in LA Totally Awesome (Ebay link below) and a few minutes scrubbing with an old toothbrush or similar usually removes the weathering and returns the loco to a largely new condition. The first link takes you to some examples of my using Totally Awesome.

 

Please note that you might lose some of the transfers and/or some paint although I have yet to experience this.

 

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/174319653417?itmmeta=01J0AKJ92QG17C1B6729PBNRCT&hash=item289642d229:g:AhwAAOSwoKFa~KYG&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA4LOMEKdZ8ZTBnrzKJZbAJaJiIrhYQOgLZd3fNcRl6AivzTbkfpEFHsxhc2EPTMNeMFdYFYWhK4znr8MRnZhEGabupYvqnqYMqI960VOpn4K8SM84eUl2x1TGsN4HPnfHUHvmPL4ZsScJ4X0WKLxAbTraPdKh%2FjPLCw%2Bj%2FMeiIjnb4IXzw9UFd03bvv1wNEZtpLNVQxUx6RNIRxbURnB%2B5g9HYIhqDVUunyhDGjTV5eVDxR4kDlTxiDxrVeVWLXGeSUh1EV7Ly%2F0qvuuGZ8767wKUoEGytPQby%2Ftvm87cIm8g|tkp%3ABFBMuJHJ04Jk

[Gilbert]

I'm afraid I pretty much agree with DCB but I did have a bit of success with 99% IPA on a loco a bit less done than that recently but  I was very careful to proceed slowly on small test sites at first...

Chris

Edited June 14 by Gilbert

[Barclay]

The main problem here is that we don't know what kind of paint has been used, so any product you use could completely strip the paintwork too. I reckon T-Cut and a cotton bud is the least invasive and will enable you to take it easy and monitor progress.

[Captain Kernow]

I also endorse the use of LA Totally Awesome on models that have been weathered with enamel paints, but I found I could remove that amount of weathering with only about 15 minutes soaking...

 

[SteveM666]

IMHO either bin it and get a replacement body, or apply a paint stripper specifically for models (not Nitromors!!) and go for a full repaint.

If yours has been done with acrylics you can soak it in Dettol and gently scrub with an old toothbrush but it can soften the plastic body. You will need to remove the glazing and any handrails.

[Hal Nail]

I've removed weathering using really fine grade (eg 2000) wet and dry.

 

For that matter if you are going to be weathering it again, you can often repaint up close to existing markings, if necessary cleaning up with a cotton bud after and once weathered any tiny difference of shade around numbers isnt too obvious to the naked eye. I did that on this - in bright direct sun you can see but not in normal viewing and I could probably do it better if I was bothered enough.

 

 

 

[Steamport Southport]

Try the old T Cut method*on somewhere that is not going to cause much damage such as the cab roof.

 

*Small amount of T Cut on a cotton bud and gently rub

 

You can sometimes get it from High Street bargain shops such as B&M or Home Bargains, otherwise Halfords.

 

 

Jason

 

[MarkC]

A few years ago I picked up a couple of locos, one Hornby & one Lima, that had been repainted - badly. I used Modelstrip on them; to my pleasant surprise not only did it remove the 'orrible paint job, but it didn't damage the factory applied lining & lettering. Not sure if this would be the same with modern models, but a patch test would prove/disprove this.

 

Mark

[34theletterbetweenB&D]

Have you bought this model for operation? If so, and if you haven't done so already, give it a test run to ensure it performs before doing anything else to it. Seen all too many 'blart!' weathering jobs that have left paint where it shouldn't be on parts essential for current collection: the spray painted glazing alone suggests this may be the case on this one.

[Michael Hodgson]

Would these methods work for a loco that has been "factory weathered" ?

[SM42]

I've found enamels washes can be removed with enamel thinners and a cotton bud. Dont rub too hard.

 

Might be worth a try. 

 

You won't clean all the nooks and crannies out  but it should come up to light weathered state 

 

The glazing may be due to a varnish coat applied by someone who found out the hard way what it does ( I found out like this too)

 

Enamel thinners will also attack some clear glazing ( another surprise effect I found after years of no issues)

 

I wonder if some work with some toothpaste (or other fine brasive) may polish it back to clear. 

 

A bit like refurbishing fogged headlights on the car

 

It'll take a bit of patience though. 

 

Andy

[Davexoc]

Johnson's Klear floor shine might restore the glazing to a less translucent state, giving a bit of a sheen. Brush on several thin coats...

[andyman7]

I'm quite surprised at the number of replies that say 'just bin it'. Sure the 'weathering' is terrible but for a really careworn example this could still be turned into an effective model. If the glazing can't be cleaned, then replace - even if it needs to be cut from clear material. 

The start point is to work out what the desired end result is - and obviously if what's wanted is lightly weathered or ex-works then this really isn't the right model to work from. Then as noted above make sure it works properly and hasn't been gummed up by the current 'effort'. I would start with enamel thinners on a cotton bud, gently. If this works, you'll pretty soon end up with a cleaner model but with crud in all the panel lines and edges which will work to your advantage when you add back in some more prototypical weathering.
I always work from a prototype photo for any heavy weathering because it's the only way to train the application to reflect real life streaks, rust patches, paint loss, crud etc rather than daubing 'muck' everywhere. There are some really classic images of incredibly decrepit locos out there! The image below from Flickr is an 09 but you get the idea...

 

Edited June 14 by andyman7
Spelling

[cypherman]

Hi all,

For the glazing you could use the method that Paul Restorer uses. Extremely fine sand paper and a cleaning compound called Glass Coat Guazy Agent. What looks like a completely destroyed glass comes up looking lie it has just come out of the factory. You can see what he does in this video. For those who do not want to watch all the video the bit you want is at 17 min 50 sec.

 

[DCB]

6 hours ago, andyman7 said:

I'm quite surprised at the number of replies that say 'just bin it'. Sure the 'weathering' is terrible but for a really careworn example this could still be turned into an effective model. If the glazing can't be cleaned, then replace - even if it needs to be cut from clear material. 

The start point is to work out what the desired end result is - and obviously if what's wanted is lightly weathered or ex-works then this really isn't the right model to work from. Then as noted above make sure it works properly and hasn't been gummed up by the current 'effort'. I would start with enamel thinners on a cotton bud, gently. If this works, you'll pretty soon end up with a cleaner model but with crud in all the panel lines and edges which will work to your advantage when you add back in some more prototypical weathering.
I always work from a prototype photo for any heavy weathering because it's the only way to train the application to reflect real life streaks, rust patches, paint loss, crud etc rather than daubing 'muck' everywhere. There are some really classic images of incredibly decrepit locos out there! The image below from Flickr is an 09 but you get the idea...

 

Great Pic.    Filthy loco  Clean glass.

[TomCrewe]

On 13/06/2024 at 17:51, meatloaf said:

Thank you i think ive managed to upload them

 

Looks good one of the best. Don't ruin t!!

[Hal Nail]

You were only supposed to blow the bloody doors off!

 

Took about 10 seconds in IPA to remove some games workshop paint I'd applied and half an hour soak allowed me to wipe off Gaugemaster weathering and Dapols original. Ironically the markings actually stayed put but scratched off with a thumbnail

 

The door end is going to be removed for a pressed steel type so I only had a token go at that and its still mostly come off.

 

 

[Steadfast]

On 21/06/2024 at 11:14, Hal Nail said:

Took about 10 seconds in IPA to remove some games workshop paint I'd applied and half an hour soak allowed me to wipe off Gaugemaster weathering and Dapols original. Ironically the markings actually stayed put but scratched off with a thumbnail

 

Another benefit to IPA is that it generally doesn't damage clear plastic. Test first obviously, but it may well shift the weathering off the windows.

 

Jo