mikesndbs Posted June 11 Share Posted June 11 Hi In 1976 when I was just 11 my dad built me a A1 Terrier from scratch. She's given loads of service ever since and does still run today. However the main issue I have found is there is a fair amount of wear in the chassis axle bearings particularly on the driven axle. You can see the issue in this short unlisted video clip from my channel. My intention is to try and restore her as sensitively as possible with minimal disturbance to how she was originally made and decorated. As you can see in this photo(s) there does seem to be a fair amount of room between the frames and gear wheel, so my initial thought is to solder a brass washer of the correct internal diameter against the inside face of the frames here to produce a more controlled bearing. I appreciate it will wear in time of course. If I possessed a pillar drill or some other reliable way of lining up the holes I'd probably insert new bearings into the old plain bearings, but I don't have access to anything like that. So I wanted to get members thoughts and ideas before I start the scary task of stripping her down. Many thanks Mike MRU 2 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miss Prism Posted June 11 Share Posted June 11 The amount of wear in the chassis axle bearings will actually help keep the wheels on the rails, thereby assisting pickup. I'd be inclined to confining any improvement to replacing the motor with a smoother one, and a more gentle gear ratio. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikesndbs Posted June 11 Author Share Posted June 11 17 minutes ago, Miss Prism said: The amount of wear in the chassis axle bearings will actually help keep the wheels on the rails, thereby assisting pickup. I'd be inclined to confining any improvement to replacing the motor with a smoother one, and a more gentle gear ratio. Many thanks, at anything more than a crawl she lumps, the motor is a 5 pole one and runs great, can you explain what a more gentle gear ratio would be please 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miss Prism Posted June 11 Share Posted June 11 Does the motor run smoothly when starting up? (My experience of Ks motors were that they were powerful, but very variable in quality.) A more gentle gear ratio would be, say, 54:1 (as in a High Level box). 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikesndbs Posted June 11 Author Share Posted June 11 24 minutes ago, Miss Prism said: Does the motor run smoothly when starting up? (My experience of Ks motors were that they were powerful, but very variable in quality.) A more gentle gear ratio would be, say, 54:1 (as in a High Level box). Thanks again, yes super smooth. She's got 40-1 I think but I can certainly look at higher. I did wonder about a suitable gearbox motor which would solve the worn frames issue too? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium John Isherwood Posted June 11 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 11 1 hour ago, mikesndbs said: Thanks again, yes super smooth. She's got 40-1 I think but I can certainly look at higher. I did wonder about a suitable gearbox motor which would solve the worn frames issue too? Before messing around with the motor / gearbox, buy a set of six 1/8" frame bushes, and a taper broach suitable for an 1/8" hole. Strip out the rods, wheels, axles and gear. Using the taper reamer, open up the frame holes until the frame bushes will JUST press in. Reassemble - job done! (If the bushes make the overall width too great, file down the projecting parts). CJI. 2 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikesndbs Posted June 11 Author Share Posted June 11 26 minutes ago, cctransuk said: Before messing around with the motor / gearbox, buy a set of six 1/8" frame bushes, and a taper broach suitable for an 1/8" hole. Strip out the rods, wheels, axles and gear. Using the taper reamer, open up the frame holes until the frame bushes will JUST press in. Reassemble - job done! (If the bushes make the overall width too great, file down the projecting parts). CJI. Now that's interesting, can yes you show me the tool? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium John Isherwood Posted June 11 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 11 (edited) 18 minutes ago, mikesndbs said: Now that's interesting, can yes you show me the tool? What I really should have recommended are cutting broaches; see : - https://maddisonsofdurham.co.uk/jewellers-tools/files-jewellers-tools/cutting-broaches/set-of-6-cutting-broaches-2-40mm-6-20mm/ The one that you would use would probably be the third smallest - you just 'twiddle' the broach in the hole until the bush JUST presses in. You are effectively restoring the axle holes to their original size. If the bushes as supplied are a tad tight on the axles, the bush holes can be lightly 'twiddled,' to ease the fit - but don't overdo it! The 1/8" bushes can be obtained from such as Wizard Models, Peter's Spares et al. CJI. Edited June 11 by cctransuk 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikesndbs Posted June 11 Author Share Posted June 11 (edited) 11 hours ago, cctransuk said: What I really should have recommended are cutting broaches; see : - https://maddisonsofdurham.co.uk/jewellers-tools/files-jewellers-tools/cutting-broaches/set-of-6-cutting-broaches-2-40mm-6-20mm/ The one that you would use would probably be the third smallest - you just 'twiddle' the broach in the hole until the bush JUST presses in. You are effectively restoring the axle holes to their original size. If the bushes as supplied are a tad tight on the axles, the bush holes can be lightly 'twiddled,' to ease the fit - but don't overdo it! The 1/8" bushes can be obtained from such as Wizard Models, Peter's Spares et al. CJI. Wow that seems almost too easy lol. How would I ensure alignment given the existing holes may be elliptical? Also I checked for the bushes but can't find any Edited June 12 by mikesndbs Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium John Isherwood Posted June 11 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 11 5 minutes ago, mikesndbs said: Who that seems almost too easy lol. How would I ensure alignment given the existing holes may be elliptical? Also I checked for the bushes but can't find any The broach will self-centre in the worn frame holes. Bushes : Product RM4 at Wizard Models. CJI. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Bucoops Posted June 11 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 11 46 minutes ago, mikesndbs said: Who that seems almost too easy lol. How would I ensure alignment given the existing holes may be elliptical? Also I checked for the bushes but can't find any I have some I can send if you like, no charge. 2 depths - the shorter ones tend to be used where the motor is, and the longer ones on other axles, they can of course be filed down to fit. 5 of each so some spares. Possibly similar vintage to your Dad's lovely model. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikesndbs Posted June 11 Author Share Posted June 11 59 minutes ago, Bucoops said: I have some I can send if you like, no charge. 2 depths - the shorter ones tend to be used where the motor is, and the longer ones on other axles, they can of course be filed down to fit. 5 of each so some spares. Possibly similar vintage to your Dad's lovely model. Oh that's really kind of you thank you 😌 🙂 and these are the right size for the axels? Are they press fit or solder Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Jol Wilkinson Posted June 11 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 11 I would recommend broaching the chassis holes so that the brass bearings just lightly push in and then run a small fillet of 145 degree solder around them. If you put the shank of a 1/8" drill through them before/while soldering it will ensure they are aligned. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikesndbs Posted June 11 Author Share Posted June 11 12 minutes ago, Jol Wilkinson said: I would recommend broaching the chassis holes so that the brass bearings just lightly push in and then run a small fillet of 145 degree solder around them. If you put the shank of a 1/8" drill through them before/while soldering it will ensure they are aligned. Brilliant thank you, I hope I would have made dad proud Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted June 12 Share Posted June 12 10 hours ago, Jol Wilkinson said: I would recommend broaching the chassis holes so that the brass bearings just lightly push in and then run a small fillet of 145 degree solder around them. If you put the shank of a 1/8" drill through them before/while soldering it will ensure they are aligned. You beat me to it. The "trick" is to work slowly, opening out each pair of holes, one at a time, so that a new bush just fits. Remember to clean the frames of any grease before attempting to solder. Once soldered, try the axle for free running. If it's a bit tight, re-insert the 1/8" drill and turn it gently while moving to and fro. Retry the axle. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Bucoops Posted June 12 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 12 11 hours ago, mikesndbs said: Oh that's really kind of you thank you 😌 🙂 and these are the right size for the axels? Are they press fit or solder No problem 🙂 Yes they are 1/8" bearings which is standard for Romford wheels. As others have mentioned, a small fillet of solder inside the frame will hold them in place. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikesndbs Posted June 12 Author Share Posted June 12 In this video we take a look at the next steps along the probably long road of restoring my Terrier scratch built for me by dad in 1976. I’ve come across some odd assembly with the crank pins being a particular puzzle. Thanks for the help. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted June 13 Share Posted June 13 I think I'd have left the coupling rods in place, just removing the wheelnuts, since the rods might be matched to a particular set of wheels, in a particular order. We'll see, when you come to rebuild it all. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikesndbs Posted June 13 Author Share Posted June 13 10 hours ago, JeffP said: I think I'd have left the coupling rods in place, just removing the wheelnuts, since the rods might be matched to a particular set of wheels, in a particular order. We'll see, when you come to rebuild it all. It's ok I marked the rods and only took off the hot side wheels so at worse front and back might be swapped. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikesndbs Posted June 13 Author Share Posted June 13 (edited) Hi all, fixing the crank pins and finding replacement transfers. I'm having a go at fixing the crank pins using thread locker, not sure how it will do as there are no threads? Didn't work As you saw the number on one side and the Southern logo are very poor. I've been searching through dad's stock of transfers (of which there are 1000s) but most seem to be the wrong ones with loads of Maunsell/LSWR types, these seem too dark? I found these very old ones at the bottom that look more like the colour but there are no 'Southern' s The best ones I have found are these, however there is not enough '2's but the 'Southern' fits perfectly. I've also found some Carrs Transfix in dad's tool box, nearly a full bottle. Should I go with these gold ones? Edited June 14 by mikesndbs Update thread locker Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikesndbs Posted June 14 Author Share Posted June 14 Sunshine or gold???! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium fulton Posted June 14 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 14 On 11/06/2024 at 18:29, cctransuk said: What I really should have recommended are cutting broaches; see : - https://maddisonsofdurham.co.uk/jewellers-tools/files-jewellers-tools/cutting-broaches/set-of-6-cutting-broaches-2-40mm-6-20mm/ Had been thinking about some larger cutting broaches for a while, ordered these when I seen your post, delivered today, thank you for the tip. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikesndbs Posted June 16 Author Share Posted June 16 Hi, changed the axles wow what a difference. Got high temperature epoxy to fix crank pins. Still looking for help with transfers. Thanks 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barclay Posted June 16 Share Posted June 16 You might want to test those transfers, the Press fix often look darker on the sheet 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikesndbs Posted June 16 Author Share Posted June 16 10 hours ago, Barclay said: You might want to test those transfers, the Press fix often look darker on the sheet Ah right, that would be very good news Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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