RMweb Gold bcnPete Posted December 17, 2010 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 17, 2010 Its amazing what happens when you ask isn't it ...... ....and so quick too...thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clifford Road Posted December 17, 2010 Author Share Posted December 17, 2010 No problems Pete! Thanks for being the 100th reply! John - thanks for the info on the Loksound Cvs that was really helpful thank you - will have a go at that later! The bridge structure that spans the sector plate entry/exit point has been built tonight, trial placing and gauging runs to take place tomorrow! Rich Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clifford Road Posted December 17, 2010 Author Share Posted December 17, 2010 Evening all, A quick photo update - the new bridge covering the entrance/exit to the layout has had a test position late tonight .... Also I forgot to mention that the ballast for the layout has arrived, so one of the next tasks will be to cut away the cork matting where there's no track to *hopefully* provide a neat ballast edge. Rich Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kristian1401 Posted December 18, 2010 Share Posted December 18, 2010 Hello Rich, Layout looks very 'plastic' Its looking good you can see the overall shape taking place, brilliant! I am now cutting cork and underlay, with Ballast to follow Shortly! Cheers Kristian P.S i know i should really post an update on mine, But Its on my other camera :S Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clifford Road Posted December 19, 2010 Author Share Posted December 19, 2010 Evening all (well just!), Having been co-oped into various family stuff related to some supposedly big thing thats coming up next weekend, progress has been a little slow the past few days. As I've said previously, the entrance/exit bridge masking the sector plate has been built and trial fitted - although further work is required to put it permanently into place. Elsewhere, the plasticard has arrived for cladding the buildings so that should move forward shortly, the offices being the last to be done because of their more complex nature. On the layout itself, I finally bucked up the courage to start weathering the track and ballasting tonight! Its really nerve racking aiming that spray can at track for the first time! But gets so you don't subsequently think about it! All went well, i'm pleased to report. The buildings and stock have all be removed from the layout while the work progresses - No.1 Road (headshunt) is next to be done. No.2 Road (Servicing Shed) has had its rust and sleeper grime added, just wants a final mist spray to tone the red down. No. 3 and No.4 sidings have been completed tonight, with all ballasting work (bar for actually sealing it with PVA) done tonight. I'm really, really pleased with the results - its the first time i've ever weathered track and I think i've got the result I wanted. The cork bed has also worked well, giving a nice shoulder to the ballast, where its been cut away. I'm trying to work out the best way to add oil patches etc.. where locos are stood - any thoughts (Pete/John?) are welcome! Results are show below - hope you like them! Rich First spray was the rusty red... (on the first track, subsequently I did this the other way round as I think it gave better results) Followed by the sleeper grime Followed by a further light mist of sleeper grime to dull the red off, togther with cutting the cork away from around the trackwork. followed by ballasting once dry.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
two tone green Posted December 20, 2010 Share Posted December 20, 2010 Very good, what paint did you use. I've never ballasted a layout before as I have always seemed to be doing changes to track and wiring needing access to solder droppers, isolate sections etc. So this time now going O and have a fixed plan in mind will take the plunge and ballast it all. I even bought one of those clear plastic boxes that you put ballast in and it spreads it accurately as you slide it along the the track. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Digital Posted December 20, 2010 Share Posted December 20, 2010 Very nice job Rich. Especially like the rusty rail effect in the last photograph, looks very effective. Regards John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Harvey Posted December 20, 2010 Share Posted December 20, 2010 Rich You are doing a great job with the weathering on the rails just keep doing what you are doing remember to fit the hard standing completely and paint the hard standing before you ballast the track. And keep the pictures coming. Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
St. Simon Posted December 20, 2010 Share Posted December 20, 2010 Hi, Great Job on the weathering and the ballasting, you've taken away the mass-produced look of the track, looks really good!] Will follow with Interest! Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clifford Road Posted December 20, 2010 Author Share Posted December 20, 2010 Very good, what paint did you use. I've never ballasted a layout before as I have always seemed to be doing changes to track and wiring needing access to solder droppers, isolate sections etc. So this time now going O and have a fixed plan in mind will take the plunge and ballast it all. I even bought one of those clear plastic boxes that you put ballast in and it spreads it accurately as you slide it along the the track. Hi TTG, Thanks for the comments. The paint is Railmatch aerosols Rust Red and Sleeper Grime. Its a sod to control though, as I think the opening is a little too large for this work, however i'm pleased with the outcome! The ballast is 7mm Carrs from C+L Finescale (as suggested by Pete H!), done the manual way with a teaspoon and brush! I did find it quite relaxing and therapeutic to be honest! I used the light grey, but on hindsight i think it may be better with a mix of both light and dark greys - so i shall experiment before going further. Rich Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clifford Road Posted December 20, 2010 Author Share Posted December 20, 2010 Pete, John (Digital) and Simon, Thanks for your kind comments - its amazing how much feedback helps! Yes, I was going to ballast the other side of Road 3 last night (you'll notice in the pictures there's a lack of ballast on the outer sleeper edges at one side!) then realised if i did that I would get the hard-standing back in!!! What colour(s) would you suggest Pete H for painting the concrete base? Also Pete, do you know what width you used for the foamboard between the rails? Im using 3mm deep, but can't seem to get the width right, it either catches on the wheels or looks too narrow - i've compared it to the pictures that you posted of John's layout and can't quite work it out! Rich Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
two tone green Posted December 20, 2010 Share Posted December 20, 2010 Hi Rich, Thanks for the paint info. I think its time to get a section of track and experiment. I have a good airbrush and compressor sat in pristine condition that I bought three years ago in a fit of 'I must get into airbrushing' but never have after finding other things more important to do like build signals. But all this going O stuff has got to be the point where I break the sealing tape on the boxes and get spraying. Ballasting as well. So its ballast and spray time. I suspect your idea of mixed colour ballast could work out well. It would give a more mixed up effect than leaving it to one colour ballast and adjusting it with paint. Will look at the range available and have a play. I do like the effects you have though and I would be very happy with my efforts if I have achieved what you have. Nice one. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clifford Road Posted December 20, 2010 Author Share Posted December 20, 2010 Thanks TTG, Weathering track is another of those 'personal opinion' topics. What works for one, might not work for another, but I found if the whole track & sleepers were sprayed with Sleeper Grime, then allowed to dry for 40-45 minutes, then the sleepers (ends and between the rail) were masked off, and sprayed with the rust red and then allowed to dry for another 40-45 minutes, the masking tape removed carefully and then with a very gently touch on the nozzle, a fine mist of sleeper grime given to the whole track in a very quick one way movement, it didn't cover the rust red, but toned it down a little. In many cases I think its a shame to have to clean the rail head to get electric!!! Rich Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
two tone green Posted December 20, 2010 Share Posted December 20, 2010 Good tips there Rich, will have a go. Thanks. 7mm may just be big enough for a real diesel engine then you can have rusty rails and no shine Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cromptonnut Posted December 21, 2010 Share Posted December 21, 2010 Very, very impressed with your rail weathering - hope I get the opportunity to try something like that one day if I can ever get my butt in gear and finalise a plan! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Harvey Posted December 21, 2010 Share Posted December 21, 2010 Rich The colour I used on John's layout was Phoenix Precision Concrete P989 they also do a Weathered Concrete P958 both are nice colours. As for the sections in-between the track measure the check rails of a Peco point and give 1/2 mm clearance to be sure, I'm sure that John will measure what he has and post the measurement on here for you. Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clifford Road Posted December 21, 2010 Author Share Posted December 21, 2010 Thanks Pete. That helps never thought of measuring the check rails on the points! Rich Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Digital Posted December 21, 2010 Share Posted December 21, 2010 Hi Rich, Measured where Pete fitted them at the depot 25.5 mm +/- 0.5mm Hope this helps Regards John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Harvey Posted December 21, 2010 Share Posted December 21, 2010 Thanks John Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold mudmagnet Posted December 21, 2010 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 21, 2010 Hi Rich, Great looking track, both the weathering and ballast looking spot on. For the oil patches used on my depot 'Orchard Road', I used an acrylic paint (brown / dark grey colour - a tester pot from one of the DIY sheds - licourice), mixed with acrylic gloss medium (from an art supplies shop) and then dabbed on where required. I also added a little blue acrylic to give a slightly different colour. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
F-UnitMad Posted December 22, 2010 Share Posted December 22, 2010 7mm may just be big enough for a real diesel engine then you can have rusty rails and no shine ... but you only get rusty railheads when there are no trains running - for a long time... Check- and wing-rails are another matter of course, and we tend to overlook them on model track when they're all shiny..!! I do like the look of your track, though, Rich - nice how you've avoided a 'uniform' colour even with aerosols - good work!! B) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clifford Road Posted December 23, 2010 Author Share Posted December 23, 2010 Evening all... John,thanks for the measurement - that's great. I'll give that a go tomorrow! MM - thank you for the kind comments on the weathering, for my first time ever, i'm really pleased with it! Although its all due, in no small way, to the help and advice of fellow RMwebbers! Thanks also for the tip about oil patches - i'll have a look at that. The stabling roads definitely need dealing with! FUnit - that's true! If they we're that rusty, then CR TMD would probably be closed!!! Good point about checkrails thought - i'll make sure they stay rusty when i clean the track! Thanks also, for the kind comment! PROGRESS Well progress has been made today, although damped by the sad news of the loss of a good friend late last night to cancer. Having felt the effects of the tragic news for most of the afternoon it has resulted in slow going, but in other ways, work on the layout has kept me going today. Mark was a great inspiration to all who knew him and will be fondly remembered, but the UK rail industry is definitely the poorer for his passing RIP. On a happier note (although that seems an insensitive phrase to use) ... all of the layout track has now been sprayed, rusted and prepared for ballasting, with the exception of the pointwork - which looks now odd! The points will be done as soon as I get another tin of Sleeper Grime anybody any advice for spraying points, while ensuring that they still work afterwards?!? Part of the departure road has been ballasted - although further ballasting has ceased while the hard-standing area's are completed. The points were all masked off using paper to avoid spray going where it shouldn't ... and after the initial coating of sleeper grime had dried, the sleeper ends and between the rails were masked with sellotape this time - i found the stickyness of sellotape better than masking tape. The hidden (fiddle) siding at the back of the layout (unpainted), the arrival and departure roads, all raise slightly as they come towards the sector plate, hence why they have such a deep ballast bed. Did do a couple of pictures of stock sat on Nos 3 and 4 Sidings last night, partly to see how they looked and also to show the ballast shoulder - which isn't that clear on the initial photographs. The Pannier tank has been sold now, and will be on its way to its new home after New Year (to avoid confusion, its not being used, just sat on a siding on the layout to ensure it doesn't get damaged!) I've tried out a thought on the concrete area in front of the servicing shed - by using ScaleScene's Concrete paper - printed on my home printer. While I think the effect is good, I'm not totally happy with it, so I think the paper will end up being removed in favour of a paint-based solution! Also i've started to clad the servicing shed this afternoon - i'm amazed at how much the addition of brickword plasticard over around 60% of the building has improved the look! The top half and roof will be comprised of steel cladding, while the fueling shed will be entirely steel cladding. Thoughts and suggestions are welcomed Has anyone any idea's how to bring the mortar layer between the bricks up when using plasticard? Once its sprayed red, i think to make it look right the minute area's between the bricks should be a mid-grey/while mortar colour, but not sure how to do that without affecting the red brickwork. Anyway, hope your all set for Christmas .... have you been good? has Santa got a list to work from .... plus options incase the delivery dates on new products have slipped??!!??!! I'll no doubt post again before the big day, but if not, I'd wish everyone a very Merry Christmas - have an enjoyable day and remember .... if you get fed-up of turkey ... take the crisps and snacks upstairs and run the trains ... tell the family you need some 'me' time Enjoy! Rich Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
66C Posted December 23, 2010 Share Posted December 23, 2010 Hi Rich The method I have used in the past for painting embossed brick sheet is to spray the whole brick area with grey primer and then dry brush the brick colour on to the faces of the bricks. Regards Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cardiff Bluebird Posted December 23, 2010 Share Posted December 23, 2010 Love the Pannier and the 08 !!!! I'd love to move into O....one day !! Excellent layout so far. Bluebird. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattmaz Posted December 23, 2010 Share Posted December 23, 2010 Has anyone any idea's how to bring the mortar layer between the bricks up when using plasticard? Once its sprayed red, i think to make it look right the minute area's between the bricks should be a mid-grey/while mortar colour, but not sure how to do that without affecting the red brickwork. Hi, I've used a "Mortar paste" before which is available from International Models. I find this to be quite effective. The track looks fantastic btw! Sorry to read of the loss of your friend. Keep up the great work, Matt Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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