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Best way to clean track without spirits?


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Hi all. Recently, I started working on my own 00/009 mixed gauge model railway. The topic of track cleaning has come up a lot, and I'm wondering what the best method is. Unfortunately, I can't use any form of spirits, as I live in an open-plan house and don't want to give everyone a headache. If it helps at all, I'm primarily using Hornby nickel silver track for the 00 lines, and Peco 009 track for the 009 lines. Also, I'm ideally looking for a solution readily available to those in the UK market, as overseas shipping costs a fortune nowadays. Thanks in advance for anyone that can help.

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The textured back surface of older hardboard takes off the black muck very effectively, I use nothing else. Pretty easy to come by in the UK, mine is salvaged from the back panels of cheap flatpack furniture installed sometime around 1974 or later (based on the date of newspaper stuck to the floor with paint). Used by hand, stick a woodblock on  the back of small pieces, or as a weighted drag behind a loco with good traction. Clean the much off with a fine wire brush, you can get weeks of use from a piece.

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You can go to your hardware shop and buy a rubberised block for track cleaning. 

They're about the same size as a Peco rail cleaner, but without the abrasive grit.

They tend to polished the rail.

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I use a Gaugemaster track cleaning rubber, after which I blow off the dusty particles and give the rail head a quick rub with a graphite stick (from an art shop). The graphite improves conductivity and helps the track stay clean longer - this process does not have to be repeated very often.

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Track cleaning/mainting always opens a can of worms.

 

I rarely clean my track & use Track Magic sparingly, in the odd place when dirt does build up I gently use a Gaugemaster Track Rubber.

 

I also use a tiny, tiny amount of Track Magic on pickup wipers.

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13 hours ago, AuraDoesThings said:

Best way to clean track without spirits?

I find having to clean the track very dispiriting, especially on a large layout.

But I don't get headaches using spirits to clean with - only if I drink it!

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I use corks from wine bottles to wipe over the rails . A handy source of supply as I never run out ! Seems to take the crud off but soft enough not to be abrasive 

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You could try and exorcism.

Otherwise, as sort of mentioned above, Corks are brilliant. However I had some old Cork covered Chipboard off-cuts from some very very old layout Boards I inherited. I use a couple of these by Hand. One covers a double Track width and the other is just smaller for awkward sections. I use a Fluid that was recommended on this Forum way way back. You can get it from a Pharmacy IIRC? It smells a bit weird and evaporates quite quickly but works a treat when soaked into the flat Cork on these off-cuts. Propanalol or something (that might be a Medication?). I can't find it this morning of course...apologies.

However, I rarely have to clean my Track. I'm DCC so no idea if that makes a difference? I also always check stock wheels when creating Train formations.

I sometimes use Track rubbers but they leave a residue. I've also got a Roller Gismo from Dave Franks (LMS Models) that fits under a Brake Van also using Fluid. Then I have a Dapol Track Cleaner vehicle that I bought second hand for a tenner. I've no idea how that works and if it actually does! 

Usual advice is never have any track you can't get at/reach, even in a Tunnel. I've got removable Pod scenery so I can lean over the Layout to my Fiddle Sidings (about 3 feet away maximum).

Good luck and have fun.

Sincerely,

Silly old bloke in Notts.

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1 hour ago, Michael Hodgson said:

...I find having to clean the track very dispiriting, especially on a large layout...

That's why I run a cleaning drag moved by two centre motor both bogies driven weighted 'mules' to do the work: no sense, no feeling.

1 hour ago, RexAshton said:

It's also worth remembering that one of the biggest causes of dirty track is dirty wheels

Minimising the root causes of track dirt  is  well worth pursuing: all metal wheels, bronze or harder, all metal rails with no plastic crossings, no solder on rail head, minimal lubrication on stock.

 

And the more running the rails get, the cleaner they stay. Nickel silver rail loses copper as copper oxide which is the doiminant inorganic component of the 'dirt' on the railhead. Once the rail head is well depleted of copper it not only stays much cleaner, but traction also improves.

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15 hours ago, AuraDoesThings said:

00/009 mixed gauge model railway

Now this is a separate subject of which I have no direct railcleaning experience. (Even in my wilder moments I cannot justify multigauge on the ECML, simply for the joy of having a sway.)

 

But I am given to believe by a friend who has a multigauge system, that this is best tackled with a solvent applicator cleaning wagon. Which might not be the answer requested...

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Thank you everyone for your replies. This has been quite an eye opener, and I'll do my best to look into some of these solutions. Still not sure what the "best" one is, but I'll look into it all regardless.

 

10 hours ago, kevinlms said:

You can go to your hardware shop and buy a rubberised block for track cleaning

I don't think the hardware shop local to me stocks something like that; the closest I can find is a rubber block used to give extra grip whilst holding sandpaper, which I doubt is what you meant.

3 hours ago, Legend said:

I use corks from wine bottles to wipe over the rails

Would any old cork work, or do they have to be pre-used corks? Because if it's the latter, I might need to change up my drinking habits.

2 hours ago, Mallard60022 said:

Usual advice is never have any track you can't get at/reach

I've made sure that every track piece is within arm's reach at table height. Some of the furthest curves are on the edge of that limit, but it's nothing a bit of stretching can't overcome.

2 hours ago, 34theletterbetweenB&D said:

all metal wheels, bronze or harder

I have replaced all my plastic rolling stock wheels wherever possible with metal ones made by Dapol. No clue what metal they're made of, but they came in a big bag for relatively cheap, and that's good enough for me.

1 hour ago, 34theletterbetweenB&D said:

Even in my wilder moments I cannot justify multigauge on the ECML

I should probably clarify, the rails themselves are not dual gauge; there's a standard gauge and a narrow gauge section, and they meet up at a station to transfer goods and passengers. Think in a similar way to Blaenau Ffestiniog station, or Crovan's Gate if you prefer your engines to have faces.

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12 hours ago, Mallard60022 said:

I use a Fluid that was recommended on this Forum way way back. You can get it from a Pharmacy IIRC? It smells a bit weird and evaporates quite quickly but works a treat when soaked into the flat Cork on these off-cuts. Propanalol or something (that might be a Medication?). 

Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA). Propranolol is medication for heart problems and severe anxiety.

IPA works quickly and effectively and doesn’t leave any mess like track rubbers. Also great for cleaning recording heads on old analogue machines but that’s getting slightly off the subject now.

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IPA is ideal for track cleaning. It isn't as volatile as ethanol (the main component of methylated spirits/surgical spirit) so doesn't have the same risk of fumes. You only need a few drops at a time on a cork or clean cloth. Same for cleaning wheels with a cotton swab.

 

Try to find IPA as close to 100% pure as possible. Some of the 70% "rubbing alcohol" will leave a residue.

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On 20/05/2024 at 20:21, AuraDoesThings said:

I can't use any form of spirits, as I live in an open-plan house and don't want to give everyone a headache. .....

Also, I'm ideally looking for a solution readily available to those in the UK market,

Unfortunately as good as IPA is at track & wheel cleaning, it still fails these two conditions set by the OP.

It does smell, although maybe not as strong as other industrial alcohols, and in the UK most likely needs to be mail ordered - unlike in the USA (& maybe Down Under, I don't know?) it isn't just handily stocked in your local Pharmacy or Walmart Supermarket.

 

For track cleaning I am a complete Heretic. I use a Peco track rubber (sparingly) and a 2B graphite stick.

According to some, these just should not work. They do for me, although I will say I'm looking at other 'rubber block' options to replace the Peco rubber. Again, in the UK it's not as simple as popping in your 'local Hardware store' - even if you're lucky enough to have such a thing still in your town.

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16 hours ago, Lee-H said:

IPA works quickly and effectively

14 hours ago, DavidB-AU said:

IPA is ideal for track cleaning

Unfortunately, like F-UnitMad said, this isn't really a viable solution for me. I do have a bottle of I think 99% IPA, but I have to go outside to use it to clean anything, as despite being in an open-plan house, it's not very well ventilated and even IPA stinks up the place, so it's not quite suitable for a layout.

 

9 hours ago, F-UnitMad said:

I use a Peco track rubber (sparingly) and a 2B graphite stick.

I didn't realise until this morning, but my brother actually uses Hornby track rubbers for cleaning old guitar strings, so I do have something similar. Is the Peco one any better, or are they about the same? Also, why a graphite stick? Is that to fill in any small scratches and holes in the track that the track rubber might have made?

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Graphite... haha, mention graphite & wait for the naysayers to come galloping over the horizon.... 🙄😂

Graphite aids electrical continuity. Yes it's also a lubricant so only use it sparingly, although wheel slipping happens in real life (like derailments) it's not what we want on a layout (or derailments, but I digress). It really helps slow running in particular. A 2B artist's graphite stick will last forever. Some have used ordinary pencil lead as effectively, although I imagine a stick is easier to apply - just a light rub over the rails.

 

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Posted (edited)
On 22/05/2024 at 18:03, F-UnitMad said:

Graphite... haha, mention graphite & wait for the naysayers to come galloping over the horizon.... 🙄😂

Graphite aids electrical continuity. Yes it's also a lubricant so only use it sparingly, although wheel slipping happens in real life (like derailments) it's not what we want on a layout (or derailments, but I digress). It really helps slow running in particular. A 2B artist's graphite stick will last forever. Some have used ordinary pencil lead as effectively, although I imagine a stick is easier to apply - just a light rub over the rails.

 

I am also a graphite stick devotee, I use a 9B. I have not cleaned my track for a few years now and only touch it up where I have been doing some work on it. Running is faultless, no non starters or stallers.

Edited by Free At Last
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18 hours ago, Lee-H said:

Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA). Propranolol is medication for heart problems and severe anxiety.

IPA works quickly and effectively and doesn’t leave any mess like track rubbers. Also great for cleaning recording heads on old analogue machines but that’s getting slightly off the subject now.

Ah thanks. That's why I know the medication...long Story.

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Posted (edited)

I've always thought the abrasive Peco rubber leaves too much debris behind. My preference for many years has been a "Polifix Block" from Squires Tools.

 

I've recently started experimenting with graphite, but rather than applying it to the whole layout in one go, am just doing a couple of yards on the up line. I'll let the trains distribute it, adding more to the opposite side of the layout when it appears to have largely disappeared from the first bit.

 

After a few weeks, I should be able to make a decent comparison with the conventionally-cleaned down line.

 

John

Edited by Dunsignalling
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On 21/05/2024 at 11:51, 34theletterbetweenB&D said:

 

 

....the more running the rails get, the cleaner they stay. Nickel silver rail loses copper as copper oxide which is the doiminant inorganic component of the 'dirt' on the railhead. Once the rail head is well depleted of copper it not only stays much cleaner, but traction also improves.

 

 

Interesting. It's noticeable that "our" 25-year-old layout needs cleaning less often than it used to, and it's nice to have an explanation.

 

John

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I've been using a block of wood for quite a while. It'll remove paint after weathering and any other dirt that might accumulate. It doesn't scratch or abrade and leaves a nice shiny surface to show which bits you've done. I'm just using some framing wood cut down to size.

Best

Dan

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Posted (edited)
On 21/05/2024 at 05:42, Legend said:

I use corks from wine bottles to wipe over the rails . A handy source of supply as I never run out ! Seems to take the crud off but soft enough not to be abrasive 

Agreed! I split mine the long way and when they collect too much grunge clean them by rubbing on a coarse file and they’re good to go again.

Beyond that, get rid of all plastic wheels and traction tyres, if possible. If you find wheels on a particular wagon are collecting grunge make sure all of the wheels sit level on a flat surface. I’ve found that wheels that do not make good contact tend to get gummed up faster. And last, but not least, run frequently, then the dust doesn’t get a chance to settle!

 

Cheers,

 

David

Edited by davknigh
Adding after thoughts.
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Posted (edited)
21 hours ago, Lee-H said:

Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA). Propranolol is medication for heart problems and severe anxiety.

IPA works quickly and effectively and doesn’t leave any mess like track rubbers. Also great for cleaning recording heads on old analogue machines but that’s getting slightly off the subject now.

Just for clarity isopropanol is old nomenclature the modern name is propan-2-ol. Isopropyl alcohol is even older. Same compound.

Edited by RobinofLoxley
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2 hours ago, davknigh said:

get rid of all plastic wheels and traction tyres, if possible.

That is the number one priority to help keep track clean. 👍👍👍

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