RMweb Gold Garry D100 Posted July 23 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 23 5 minutes ago, PaulRhB said: I was thinking along similar lines but lining up the hook might be a pain. The ideal would be a laser cut or etched sheet with a few on that would represent a chain but actually be a fixed arm like this. Would fine chain work and superglue the links maybe. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold PaulRhB Posted July 23 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 23 4 minutes ago, Garry D100 said: Would fine chain work and superglue the links maybe. Yes but you still need to find a nice hook. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Garry D100 Posted July 23 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 23 15 minutes ago, PaulRhB said: Yes but you still need to find a nice hook. Like these. They are actually 4mm scale but look right to me. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted July 23 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 23 Thew hook and loop couplings fitted allow you to have permanently coupled sets, with a working coupling at each end for shunting. The choppers look nice and work pretty well, and can be uncoupled by pulling the droppers together using a big pair of tweezers. We tested this method and it worked well. I'm not sure what metal the hooks are made of, but its non-magnetic. A piece of steel attached to the droppers could make uncoupling via an under-track magnet viable, but I don't suppose anyone has had time to try this yet! I've seen at least five of these locos so far, and I think three of them had popped-out handrails knobs, but is simple to pop them back in. The handrails themselves look a bit too fine when comparing with photos of the real thing, and should nearer in diameter to the cab handrails. I would be tempted to replace them with something a bit heftier. The wire fitted is .4mm, I use that for handrails in 4mm scale. I would use .6 or .7 in 7mm (although .7 is probably a tad OVERscale) I hope this doesn't come across as negative, these are superb model and I'm very impressed. Cheers, Dave. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted July 23 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 23 (edited) 22 minutes ago, PaulRhB said: Yes but you still need to find a nice hook. Can the fitted hook be turned upside-down? Edited July 23 by DLT Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold PaulRhB Posted July 23 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 23 7 minutes ago, DLT said: Can the fitted hook be turned upside-down? Yes but you still need to lift one wagon up to uncouple, and they actually clip in to the ‘loop’ one on the other wagon and it doesn’t look any different really either. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold PaulRhB Posted July 23 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 23 (edited) 18 minutes ago, DLT said: The choppers look nice and work pretty well, and can be uncoupled by pulling the droppers together using a big pair of tweezers. Yes they work well they just look massive between two wagons when you join up sets as the gap is so different. That’s all I’m really trying to sort out 😁 I made up an open ended V on the end of some wire you just slide in from the side under the main body so needs less space than tweezers to open the choppers up. Edited July 23 by PaulRhB 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted July 23 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 23 2 minutes ago, PaulRhB said: Yes but you still need to lift one wagon up to uncouple, and they actually clip in to the ‘loop’ one on the other wagon and it doesn’t look any different really either. I was thinking more about the coupling-chain question Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold PaulRhB Posted July 23 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 23 2 minutes ago, DLT said: I was thinking more about the coupling-chain question Ah you’re thinking about hooking the chain into it? If you can find three links of the right side the might clip in easily and you could couple with tweezers. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Young Posted July 23 Share Posted July 23 6 hours ago, DLT said: Thew hook and loop couplings fitted allow you to have permanently coupled sets, with a working coupling at each end for shunting. The choppers look nice and work pretty well, and can be uncoupled by pulling the droppers together using a big pair of tweezers. We tested this method and it worked well. I'm not sure what metal the hooks are made of, but its non-magnetic. A piece of steel attached to the droppers could make uncoupling via an under-track magnet viable, but I don't suppose anyone has had time to try this yet! I've seen at least five of these locos so far, and I think three of them had popped-out handrails knobs, but is simple to pop them back in. The handrails themselves look a bit too fine when comparing with photos of the real thing, and should nearer in diameter to the cab handrails. I would be tempted to replace them with something a bit heftier. The wire fitted is .4mm, I use that for handrails in 4mm scale. I would use .6 or .7 in 7mm (although .7 is probably a tad OVERscale) I hope this doesn't come across as negative, these are superb model and I'm very impressed. Cheers, Dave. Dave, The popping out of hand rail knobs seems to be prevalent on the cabless version, it happened on my black one but not my blue one. As you say, it’s a simple job to put them back in and there is a fine line between not enough glue and excessive glue with splatter marks that every box opening videoer will complain about. In the past, complaints have been made about handrail knobs being over size. In a couple of weeks time I’ll be in Tywyn on holiday, thought I might measure up the diameter of the handrail and knobs on ‘Rough Pup’ in the museum there before deciding on whether they needed changing or not. Andrew 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
didcot Posted July 23 Share Posted July 23 Had my starter pack with Britomart arrive today. The reach rod for the drain taps was loose in the box and the water hose had spapped off the Slate water tank building. Both the work of a moment to put back and I'm really pleased. Britomart runs very smoothly on my rolling road. Overall very impressed. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quarryscapes Posted July 23 Share Posted July 23 (edited) 35 minutes ago, Andrew Young said: Dave, The popping out of hand rail knobs seems to be prevalent on the cabless version, it happened on my black one but not my blue one. As you say, it’s a simple job to put them back in and there is a fine line between not enough glue and excessive glue with splatter marks that every box opening videoer will complain about. In the past, complaints have been made about handrail knobs being over size. In a couple of weeks time I’ll be in Tywyn on holiday, thought I might measure up the diameter of the handrail and knobs on ‘Rough Pup’ in the museum there before deciding on whether they needed changing or not. Andrew The knobs are oversize and the wire undersize. Just mocked up one with Markits knobs which are similar sized though better shaped and correct 0.7mm wire and it does look better, but still not dead on scale. Dismantling a Margaret I found the left hand bunker basically fell out. It seems luck of the draw with the glue on these. One injector came out no problem, the other didn't and snapped, as did the reverser and drain cock rods. Edited July 23 by Quarryscapes 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Young Posted July 23 Share Posted July 23 Whilst we’re not short of comments about the new Bachmann NG7 models, have trimmed some vegetation on Wheal Ponder (which needed doing anyway) and given my pair a run out before they get some attention to take the shine off them. Some photos and a couple of short videos on the blog. https://melynvalleyrailway.blogspot.com/2024/07/Bachmann-beauties.html?m=1 Andrew 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarcD Posted July 24 Share Posted July 24 People could try KB scale pins and loops for their 0-14 links and pins are bang on scale. I have a supply of talyllyn couplings that go with my wagon range that can be made available. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew P Posted August 6 Share Posted August 6 Having had the privilege to ride behind "ALICE" for the length of the BALA line and back in the Directors Saloon, (a slate wagon with a plank painted yellow and black), back in 2011, I just had to have one. Oh dear, what ever next? 9 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew P Posted August 6 Share Posted August 6 And a Video of Alice on a wagon test run. 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew P Posted August 7 Share Posted August 7 (edited) HELP = Is there a link anywhere to the Lionheart NG7 L&B Coaches please? Edited August 7 by Andrew P Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold PaulRhB Posted August 7 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 7 40 minutes ago, Andrew P said: HELP = Is there a link anywhere to the Lionheart NG7 L&B Coaches please? What for sale? Try Rails, many others seem to be out yet strangely Paul Martin said there’s a lot of unsold stock at Dapol. if you want pics they are in 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jub45565 Posted August 7 Share Posted August 7 Paul at EDM also has a lot in stock: https://ngtrains.com/shop/brand/lionheart/ 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew P Posted August 7 Share Posted August 7 1 hour ago, PaulRhB said: What for sale? Try Rails, many others seem to be out yet strangely Paul Martin said there’s a lot of unsold stock at Dapol. if you want pics they are in 1 hour ago, Jub45565 said: Paul at EDM also has a lot in stock: https://ngtrains.com/shop/brand/lionheart/ SORRY GUYS. = I meant to say = what is the minimum Radius for the coaches please. I know the L& B Loco is about 4ft, and was wondering if the coaches would go around a smaller radius,even though looking silly. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold PaulRhB Posted August 7 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 7 22 minutes ago, Andrew P said: SORRY GUYS. = I meant to say = what is the minimum Radius for the coaches please. I know the L& B Loco is about 4ft, and was wondering if the coaches would go around a smaller radius,even though looking silly. L&B Loco’s and coaches go round 2ft radius, (4ft diameter), both look better on 3ft though. Jump into the thread linked above or it’ll get confusing in this Bachmann one 😉 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold roundhouse Posted August 7 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 7 (edited) My other halfs 'Alice' has now been weathered lightly as per her requirements. Today it had a good run in on the High Line test circuit. Just requires the Modelu figures when I do my next order. Edited August 7 by roundhouse 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BingleyWorks Posted August 7 Share Posted August 7 Question of curiosity, has anyone attempted to fit working lamps to their quarry hunslets yet? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarcD Posted August 8 Share Posted August 8 I haven't seen any with lamps fitted unless they were on a preserved line. I could be wrong. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Jeremy Cumberland Posted August 8 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 8 2 minutes ago, MarcD said: I haven't seen any with lamps fitted unless they were on a preserved line. I could be wrong. You're not wrong. I don't think any quarry Hunslet had lamp brackets when used in the quarries. Most still don't. Each preserved railway will have its own rules for lights. A few narrow gauge railways (but not, I think, ones that regularly use quarry Hunslets) have a policy of carrying an unlit headlamp (oil lamp) on daytime trains, the same as many standard gauge lines. There is a general requirement that trains on lines crossing a public highway at an open crossing need to carry a headlight after dark; this is invariably electric, and usually of modern appearance. Railways that don't cross public highways might use some other type of headlamp after dark, or maybe none at all, but railways that use quarry Hunslets don't often run trains after dark. The driver of a train after dark will have a torch of some kind to read the pressure gauge and see the water level. This might be secured somewhere in the cab and permanently lit, or it might only be turned on when needed. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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