Metro Trains Melbourne

[JackBlack]

Hi Everyone,

As I live in Melbourne I use Metro Trains Melbourne every time I use a train.

I'm considering modelling them, but don't know what to do. Should I scratchbuild it

or modify a current model to it?? Help here please..

 

Thanks

[Prof Klyzlr]

Hi Everyone,

As I live in Melbourne I use Metro Trains Melbourne every time I use a train.

I'm considering modelling them, but don't know what to do. Should I scratchbuild it

or modify a current model to it?? Help here please..

 

Thanks

 

 

Dear Jack,

 

I don't have any particular model in mind, but maybe you'll find something useful from the Euro manufacturers?

Alternatively, connect with fellow Melbourne modeller (tram modeller, but it's a start)

Glennofootscray via Youtube

 

 

Happy Modelling,

Aim to Improve,

Prof Klyzlr

[SRman]

I don't know of any models that are remotely similar to the current trains, be they Hitachi, ComEng, Siemens or X'trapolis.

 

There was a firm called Black Diamond Models that was going to produce original style ComEng units in HO but their website seems to have disappeared so I don't know what happened to them or the models.

 

For earlier stock there is a modeller who appears regularly at Melbourne exhibitions who converts Lima South African coaches into very passable Harris trains but these are probablt way too early for your tastes.

 

If you go down the scratch building route, I'd suggest the Siemens trains as being possibly the easiest as they have smooth slab sides and are completely devoid of any character (IMHO). They only have two sets of flush-fitting double doors per side whereas all other types have three pairs of recessed doors and curved tumblehomes on the lower sides, not to mention fluted panelling on the ComEngs and Hitachis.

 

Good luck with whatever you choose to do.

[BobD]

You do not mention scale......

[hollywoodfoundry]

If the OP lives in Melbourne, then most likely it will be HO scale.

 

Black Diamond models is still around and quite well: http://www.blackdiamondmodels.com.au/

 

There is also another group making kits available for the Comeng and Hitachi suburban trains. I can provide you with an email address for them if you PM me.

[SRman]

Just a thought, seeing as I assumed HO scale to start with. If the OP is modelling in N, then maybe some of the lovely Japanese EMUs from the likes of Kato and Tomix could be adapted to resemble Melbourne's trains.

[JackBlack]

Thanks everyone, I'm doing OO.

[JackBlack]

Anything else anyone?? I don't which Metro Trains Melbourne Train it is, I just want to do one of them in OO.

[hollywoodfoundry]

Just guessing mind you, but as there are VERY few people doing Melbourne suburban trains of any sort, getting one in OO is going to be near impossible. By and large, Australians model in HO, not OO.

[JackBlack]

What could I use to scratchbuild it if all else fails??

[JackBlack]

Anyone.....

[Burkitt]

There are lots of different methods of scratch building you could use, depending on your skills and how much money you are prepared to spend.

The simplest and cheapest method is to draw the sides, front and roof of the train on a computer graphics program, print them on card or glossy paper, assemble them into a box and attach to an RTR chassis of suitable length. This approach looks OK in N gauge but is a bit too rudimentary for most in HO or OO.

At the other end of the scale, you can commission your own etched brass or nickel silver kit, again from computer drawings, and solder it together. Probably the most difficult and expensive option, but it would produce the best result, and has the advantage that you can sell copies of the etches to fund your modelling.

One idea that is gaining popularity is to create a complete 3D computer model, and have it printed in plastic by a company such as Shapeways. The success of this depends as much on your skill as at CAD as traditional modelling, and is currently limited in resolution and quality of finish. It's also expensive for larger items.

A good balance between simplicity, cost and realism can be achieved by building in styrene sheet / plasticard. It is simple to cut sheets into accurate shapes, can be bent to shape, and complex curves can be formed by filing and filling. Have a look at John Teal's class 25 and MkI suburban coach in G scale, made from scratch from styrene sheet and both on his blog http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?app=blog&module=display&section=blog&blogid=323&.

 

The best bet for the underframe might be to find an existing model with similar length carriages and bogies, and use it as the basis for your scratchbuilt body. Depending on how concerned you are about accuracy, you could keep the existing bogie sideframes and underfloor equipment or scratchbuild them to suit.

 

Paul

[JackBlack]

Thanks Paul. I've never scratchbuilt anything but I really want a Melbourne Metro train. Could a DMU chassis work?

By the way, here is some info on the siemens model: http://www.vicsig.net/index.php?page=suburban&traintype=Siemens. The carriage length of the motor car says 24.1m and I used a converter and it said 304mm. Is that right or is there a special program that can convert metres to 00 scale?

Thanks

[DavidB-AU]

There are some RTR Melbourne suburban trains in the pipeline, but they are in HO. The Tait train is coming first.

 

For the life of me I can't understand why somebody would do it in OO when the track scales our narrower than standard gauge, expecially when the Melbourne network is broad gauge. In 4mm scale it would need to be 21mm gauge.

 

Cheers

David

[Steve K]

The carriage length of the motor car says 24.1m and I used a converter and it said 304mm. Is that right or is there a special program that can convert metres to 00 scale?

I think you've used 1:79.2 instead of 1:76.2 there...

 

Actually, 24.1m scaled down to OO is 24100/76.2 = 316.2mm.

 

There's no magic program needed - you just divide the dimension you want by 76.2.

 

But seriously (especially if Melbourne is wide gauge anyway), why go OO? HO makes much more sense, surely.

[JackBlack]

Well, my layout that I'm doing is OO scale.

[Steve K]

Well, my layout that I'm doing is OO scale.

Fair enough! If so, as I say, just divide everything by 76.2 (or 76, to keep it simple) and you should be fine. Scratchbuilding multiple units would scare the heck out of me - all those windows! Maybe there's some British prototype, modelled by Hornby or Bachmann, which has similar sides, which you could use as a basis for hacking about to the desired shape?

[shortliner]

Not to decry your intentions or aspirations, but you appear to be trying to make your life as difficult as possible. You are trying to model a 5ft gauge system on a 4 ft gauge track, meaning that you have no accurate width underframes, or motorized chassis to the correct scale. and everything is going to either be too narrow, or it is going to look like a wide bodied vehicle tiptoeing along on narrow gauge track. You would be sensibly advised to use HO scale, which will adjust the visual imballance or to use the shortly available models as suggested.

[Burkitt]

And as far as I know all RTR Australian stock is in HO not OO, as well as the vast majority of scenic accessories, buildings, vehicles etc from international manufacturers. OO only makes any sense if you are modelling the UK using RTR stock, otherwise HO is a far better choice.

[DavidB-AU]

I have to agree with shortliner. A Brisbane or Perth suburban train would look more accurate in OO as 16.5mm in 4mm scale is closer to 3'6" gauge than standard gauge.

 

There are a handful of people doing Melbourne suburban electrics in HO.

 

 

 

There's no need to reinvent the wheel.

 

Cheers

David

[SRman]

Not to decry your intentions or aspirations, but you appear to be trying to make your life as difficult as possible. You are trying to model a 5ft gauge system on a 4 ft gauge track, meaning that you have no accurate width underframes, or motorized chassis to the correct scale. and everything is going to either be too narrow, or it is going to look like a wide bodied vehicle tiptoeing along on narrow gauge track. You would be sensibly advised to use HO scale, which will adjust the visual imballance or to use the shortly available models as suggested.

 

Add to that the Melbourne trains are a little wider than BR stock too.

 

Ironically, Sydney trains are wider and taller than Melbourne's loading gauge allows, even though New South Wales uses standard gauge while Melbourne uses Irish 5' 3" gauge. That's why the four-car Double Decker set that ran on the Lilydale / Belgrave lines for a while, even though it was based on the NSW Tangara design, was shorter, lower and narrower than the NSW stock. There are details of this train on the VicSig site (mentioned earlier) too.

[JackBlack]

Thanks guys. Could this work? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sprinter_(Victorian_train)

Or this from Perth: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Transperth_B-series_train

what do you reckon?

[JackBlack]

Help please?

[shortliner]

Sorry, I don't see how either of those links is going to help you (especially since the first one doesn't seem to go anywhere) - we have made suggestions that you are obviously unwilling to accept, so I think you are in "dark Territory" here, striking out on your own in an odd scale/gauge combination - Good Luck

 

PS - Have you thought of using TT scale (3mm) on 4mm scale track - which is going to get you closser to your broad gauge??

[Patrick]

HO scale using EM gauge track would also be a good match for the 5ft 3in gauge used by the likes of Metro Trains Melbourne and V Line, allowing existing kits, etc. to be used instead of the awkwardness of modelling in OO and having to scratchbuild everything. And, as far as I know, ready-built EM gauge track is available from the likes of SMP and C&L...