Enfys_Rainbow Posted March 30 Author Share Posted March 30 Hi all, I mentioned a few posts ago that I would be needing some coaching stock for a future project. At the time, I was mainly referring to Mk1's, but I've subsequently come to realise that a couple of Mk2's won't hurt either! The stock will predominantly be Blue/Grey, so this is very much an outlier, but I picked it up for a bargain price and thought it made sense to practice some of the changes I'd be making before committing to anything else. So this is a Hornby Mk2E BSO. I'm no expert when it comes to coaches, but these are certainly more affordable than the Bachmann equivalents on the used market and that is my priority! I've limited my changes to replacing handrails and roof grab handles. I've decided to leave the bodyside handrails as they are to avoid too much work/damage. I will be doing a bit more cosmetic detailing before I call it done, but this'll mainly be some pipes, cosmetic couplings [possibly] and steps. After that, I'll have to do a bit of repainting, just to patch things up. I did consider replacing the glazing, but after consideration, decided this would be an unnecessary step. Happy Easter! Matt 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Enfys_Rainbow Posted April 1 Author Share Posted April 1 (edited) A bit more work managed over the Bank Holiday, although unfortunately I'm going away again tomorrow so any further progress will be halted. I decided to knock up some steps using some bits of waste etch, nothing clever, but quick, [relatively] easy and most importantly, cheap! I've also done some more work to the ends: replacement handrails mentioned in an earlier post, and some very basic detailing to the corridor connector. I won't be repeating this on the inner ends of the rake, only the outer. And finally the coach sides have been repainted so as to provide a blank canvas - why I hear you ask - well there was some scratching and scuffing to parts of the body and a repaint was easier! Note that the body isn't clipped in place in any of these photos - disassembling it once was difficult enough! Matt Edited April 1 by Enfys_Rainbow 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Enfys_Rainbow Posted April 7 Author Share Posted April 7 Hello all, 6 months on, and I've finally finished the interior of the Parkside 13t wagon. To be honest, I've no idea if the real wagon floors were painted or not! Matt 12 6 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwealleans Posted April 9 Share Posted April 9 I saw this on FB. That wood effect is outstanding. What did you use? 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Enfys_Rainbow Posted April 15 Author Share Posted April 15 On 09/04/2024 at 10:12, jwealleans said: I saw this on FB. That wood effect is outstanding. What did you use? Thanks Jonathan - it's acrylic paint and washes of black, brown and grey oil paint over the top. I've been working away on the BSO. It's now been repainted and the various markings applied. I was in two minds whether to replace the window bars - I initially thought that the printed Hornby ones looked ok but following closer inspection, decided they definitely needed replacing. These were easy enough to knock up from fine wire and look a lot better to my eyes. I've also made a suggestion at a dropped buckeye - the inner ends will use Kadee couplings. I'm now debating whether to add cosmetic pipes to this end - their omission is noticeable, however will they get in the way of coupling/uncoupling using Smiths hooks and couplings? All that aside, I'm about to start the weathering progress soon which will hopefully bring all this to life. Matt 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sb67 Posted April 15 Share Posted April 15 On 07/04/2024 at 15:47, Enfys_Rainbow said: Hello all, 6 months on, and I've finally finished the interior of the Parkside 13t wagon. To be honest, I've no idea if the real wagon floors were painted or not! Matt Has to be one of the most realistic timber finishes I've seen, well done sir! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Enterprisingwestern Posted April 16 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 16 12 hours ago, Enfys_Rainbow said: I've also made a suggestion at a dropped buckeye - the inner ends will use Kadee couplings. I'm now debating whether to add cosmetic pipes to this end - their omission is noticeable, however will they get in the way of coupling/uncoupling using Smiths hooks and couplings? If you are not constantly coupling and uncoupling at the loco end then I don't think it would be a problem, and anyway, Smiths hooks are huuuuge, so that will help. Also, if you use flexible pipes that should help alleviate any interference issues. Mike. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Enfys_Rainbow Posted April 16 Author Share Posted April 16 32 minutes ago, Enterprisingwestern said: If you are not constantly coupling and uncoupling at the loco end then I don't think it would be a problem, and anyway, Smiths hooks are huuuuge, so that will help. Also, if you use flexible pipes that should help alleviate any interference issues. Mike. Is there a supplier of flexible pipes that you can recommend? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Enterprisingwestern Posted April 16 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 16 2 hours ago, Enfys_Rainbow said: Is there a supplier of flexible pipes that you can recommend? https://underhillroad.wordpress.com/sales-page-2/ Should be enough in there to keep you going! Mike. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Kevin Johnson Posted April 19 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 19 Matt it's always nice to follow your excellent level of weathering and detailing. It definitely inspires people like myself.👍 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Enfys_Rainbow Posted May 24 Author Share Posted May 24 Not promising anything...but a new direction I'm considering for this thread... 2 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Enfys_Rainbow Posted May 28 Author Share Posted May 28 First off, some more thoughts about a change to EM gauge: I've long been aware of the discussions around OO vs EM vs P4 and to be totally honest, not knowing anything other than OO, I was never that bothered. Recently, however, I started asking myself that given how much time and effort I [try to] put into my stock building, would making the small extra step not be worth it? I've subsequently joined the EMGS and purchased a B2B gauge and a length of track, mainly out of pure curiosity. I wasn't expecting much, and I've never actually seen anything EM "in the flesh" but now I've compared the two, and without wanting to sound cliched, I can't unsee the narrow-ness of OO gauge! P4 would be a step too far for me and while I appreciate it's finesse, and the standards of those who model it, it wouldn't be a viable option for me. EM, however, seems to be the best of both worlds [for me]. So, I'm on the verge of committing to EM gauge. On one hand, I'm a bit sad as I don't relish the thought of having to convert existing stock, especially some of those items where adjustments to brake gear etc will be difficult and destructive, but on the other hand I'm excited about this progression in my modelling! Meanwhile, I haven't just been sitting there pondering EM gauge - I have done some modelling too! The Hornby BSO is on the finishing straight now. I've started the weathering, and while there's more to be done, it's getting there...I think. The underframe needs a bit more work, as does the roof, however I'm going for an "in-service" finish. Not bad for a Hornby Mk2E - gives the Bachmann model a run for it's money in my opinion! Matt 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mullie Posted May 28 Share Posted May 28 One of the reasons I changed to EM was that I built a Comet chassis and an etched wagon kit, then started asking the same question, why do this and not work to a more accurate gauge. I also felt P4 was a step too far. I've worked in EM since 2018, I still have some stock in boxes, the early 50s part of my layout has six locos, the 1963 period has three plus a Derby Lightweight. My layout is small so this is not an issue, much of my trackwork was built during lockdown. Every conversion has its challenges, nothing has defeated me so far apart from a Heljan W& M railbus, which I bought as non working and it needs more doing than I realised. I've put it away for a moment, though I will return to it. Some conversions have used Gibson parts, I've built two Comet chassis and simply regauged some Bullant bogies. Every conversion is slightly different. I've done two 08s, an interesting challenge and a Bachmann type two (class 24) was converted in about ten minutes with drop in axles as was the Derby Lightweight. I've never regretted the change, I visit Expo EM every year and belong to the EM gauge society.There are area groups too though not in my part of Dorset. Martyn 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Enfys_Rainbow Posted May 28 Author Share Posted May 28 11 minutes ago, mullie said: Some conversions have used Gibson parts, I've built two Comet chassis and simply regauged some Bullant bogies. Every conversion is slightly different. I've done two 08s, an interesting challenge and a Bachmann type two (class 24) was converted in about ten minutes with drop in axles as was the Derby Lightweight. Hi Martyn, Thanks for the reply. Out of interest, which wheels did you use for the Class 24? Matt Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mullie Posted May 28 Share Posted May 28 The 24 used Gibson wheels as did the 08 conversions. The Derby Lightweight used Branchlines wheels. I also use wagon and carriage wheels from wizard on occasion. Martyn Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sb67 Posted May 29 Share Posted May 29 22 hours ago, mullie said: The 24 used Gibson wheels as did the 08 conversions. The Derby Lightweight used Branchlines wheels. I also use wagon and carriage wheels from wizard on occasion. Martyn Sorry to but in on the chat but what Gibson wheels did you use for the 24, I wonder if they could be used on a Hornby Class 25? I'm thinking of re wheeling one but ultrascales aren't cheap and have a long wait time. Many thanks. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mullie Posted May 29 Share Posted May 29 Look at the Gibson catalogue on his website, Colin sells sets for conversion. I think they might well do a 25 as well. I seem to remember they came with pin point axles, it was a simple matter to modify the axle and add the Bachmann gears. The 24 is a very reliable performer on my layout and is over 20 years old. I'm away from home at the moment, I'll try and post some photos when I get back, there is a help sheet on either the Gibson or EMGS website as I'm sure I used it. Martyn Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Enfys_Rainbow Posted June 29 Author Share Posted June 29 Good morning all, Not many posts recently, but I've been working hard behind the scenes on this, my next project: This is a Parkside Diag 1/213 12t van body, with an rather fabulous underframe from Rumney Models. Steep learning curve for me with a few errors along the way [all my fault, nothing to do with the kit] but despite that, it really looks the part. So much so, in fact, I can't see myself building too many all-plastic underframes from here on in. In case you're wondering, this is also to EM gauge. Matt This 9 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Kevin Johnson Posted July 3 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 3 On 29/06/2024 at 10:18, Enfys_Rainbow said: Good morning all, Not many posts recently, but I've been working hard behind the scenes on this, my next project: This is a Parkside Diag 1/213 12t van body, with an rather fabulous underframe from Rumney Models. Steep learning curve for me with a few errors along the way [all my fault, nothing to do with the kit] but despite that, it really looks the part. So much so, in fact, I can't see myself building too many all-plastic underframes from here on in. In case you're wondering, this is also to EM gauge. Matt This Hello Matt it's great to see you are still building wagon kits. The brass underframe looks nicely detailed. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Enfys_Rainbow Posted July 6 Author Share Posted July 6 Hi all, Finally finished and now waiting to be painted: While I wait for an opportunity to paint, my thoughts are already turning to the next project... Matt 9 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Kevin Johnson Posted July 7 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 7 Lovely kit building Matt. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Enfys_Rainbow Posted July 13 Author Share Posted July 13 Hi all, While I wait for an opportunity to paint the 12t van, I've started work on a Mermaid ballast wagon. There were two choices: the Flangeway RTR option or the venerable Cambrian kit and I opted for the latter. It's a shame there are no detailing/upgrade parts available for this kit because it would really benefit from a few bits. I initially constructed the chassis as per the instructions, and went to bed feeling pretty pleased with myself. Next evening, I realised I had messed up somewhere, because it was much too narrow and I couldn't even fit the wheels. I tried to disassemble it, but this was easier said than done and the w-irons and chassis frame were damaged in the process. After resisting the urge to stamp on it, I rebuilt things as best I could using a range of bits and bobs. It's not perfect, but it runs smoothly. The body was harder than it needed to be and is only balancing in place in these photos. I've also started adding a bit of extra detail - again just from bits and bobs - to the bufferbeams. Matt 9 1 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Enfys_Rainbow Posted July 25 Author Share Posted July 25 Good morning all, Bit of a Mermaid update - still far from finished, but I'm making steady progress with it. Still to do are brake levers, end chains, rail clamps and a multitude of other small bits and bobs. Everything between the solebars is guesswork, and not much will be seen so I'm not overly concerned about 100% accuracy. Equally, many of the bits underneath have been cobbled together from various spare parts. Matt 9 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southwich Posted July 25 Share Posted July 25 Absolutely stunning Matt - great work! Kind regards, Will 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sb67 Posted July 25 Share Posted July 25 That's fantastic work Matt! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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