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EFE Rail - Winter 2023 Announcements inc. Southern 'Booster'


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Posted (edited)

Anyone managed to figure out what actual aux connections the cab lights are on for DCC? The manual saying F3 and F4 controls them is pretty useless since it doesn't mention a decoder type.

 

Edit: Figured it out, the Zimo MX634 needed to be set to MX634C instead of D to have the logic level functions in the right place. Cab lights are on F03/4 which in fairness is probably the defaults on most decoders.

Edited by Kaput
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3 hours ago, Graham_Muz said:

... just a push fit into the bufferbeam. ...

A rather tight push on my loco - definitely wouldn't have shaken loose in a thousand years ! ( I'm having to ease the holes for the revised headsignal lamps ............ Ooooh, they're fiddly - especially the one by the vac pipe ! )

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Noticed that Roads and Rails have listed a sound decoder for the Booster on their website, have ordered a couple for my CC1 and 20002.

 

Started to fit ordinary decoders in CC1 last night and found it rather difficult to remove the buffers and once that had been done without breaking anything spent quite a bit of time trying to release the screws in the body, whoever fitted them screwed them in nice and tight.

 

Work on CC1 has now paused awaiting for the arrival of the sound decoders from Roads and Rails.

 

Keith

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I have just fitted three closed headcode discs at each end of my 20001. At first it seemed nigh on impossible but then I tapered the end of the splines and rounded off the inner end of the fitting. I was then able to fit them easily and it only took a few minutes to complete the installation. I found the fit of the coupling hooks and steam pipes to be absolutely right and just fixed them with a touch of superglue. The buffers came out reasonably easily twisting them slightly as I pulled. Yes the body screws were tight but moved in the end.  I've ordered a Zimo decoder from Youchoos with a mix of his 2-BIL and Class 71 sounds. It may not be exactly right but I was able to order it to my own function map with EMU whistles, Westinghouse Compressor, braking etc. Hopefully should get it later this week.  Richard 

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Efe have done the best out of me recently. Boosters, cross country set and LSWR vans. Should be rapidos year so far with the O1 and various wagons. Depends on what Hornby pull out the bag. I will be waiting by the letter box tomorrow for my southern green booster :) 

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9 hours ago, The Stationmaster said:

The Hornby Class 71 has been very much a 'remaindered' model that they were seriously trying to clear out of their overstocked inventory several years back,  Hence certain retailers - who were prepared and able to buy some in at a very low price could offer them at a cheap retail price.

Whereas the BR Green Class 70 has been underproduced - sold out everywhere!

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10 hours ago, locoholic said:

Whereas the BR Green Class 70 has been underproduced - sold out everywhere!

Try model railways direct.

(They are away until 16th so wont have unpacked yet).

https://modelrailwaysdirect.co.uk/efe-rail-e82004-br-ex-sr-sr-bulleid-booster-co-co-20002-br-green-livery-dcc-ready.html
 

Theres one here

https://themodelrailwayshop.co.uk/products/e82004-sr-bullied-booster-locomotive-no-20002-br-green-early-crest


and here

 

https://www.ttcdiecast.com/efe-rail-e82004-sr-bullied-booster-20002-br-green---oo-gauge-175744-p.asp

 

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Now I'm sure I've said this before but ....................................

 

2 fairly niche SR Locos - OK a few different livery variations - sold like hot cakes ................................

 

10 SR locos - one livery but pre-TOPS/TOPS numbering but still high on every BR SR modellers list - a big "ED"s GOT to be worth a punt ???? 

Edited by Southernman46
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My malachite green CC1 has just arrived, and what a beauty! Gave it a very quick run and it runs fine. Tiny bit noisy in one direction, but not to a level I'm worried about.

I'm sure once it's been run in properly it will be fine, and even if not it's a level of noise I can live with. Superb model, well worth the money. Hats off to everyone involved!

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Posted (edited)

I really do have a soft spot for the early & experimental electric locos/units. That 1890-1950s era of electric designs is marvellous, and one I hope to see exploited more by manufacturers 👍

Edited by Fair Oak Junction
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Mines arrived and it's very good for the money. Nice and heavy, a good finish without any flaws. Has any one tried to fit an HM7000 or could take a guess at whether one will fit? The one thing I don't like is the wrench-the-buffers-off design to get the body off so I'd like to avoid it if it's futile. With all wheel pickups it should be OK without the power bank cross fingers.

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6 minutes ago, Metropolitan said:

Mines arrived and it's very good for the money. Nice and heavy, a good finish without any flaws. Has any one tried to fit an HM7000 or could take a guess at whether one will fit? The one thing I don't like is the wrench-the-buffers-off design to get the body off so I'd like to avoid it if it's futile. With all wheel pickups it should be OK without the power bank cross fingers.

 

Some Lima locos used to require the buffers to be removed before lifting the body shell off, but they didn't have screws to be removed too...

 

Apparently the 2nd generation HM7000 21 pin sound decoders are smaller than the 1st gen ones, but how many of the 1st gen ones are still in the supply chain is a problem.

 

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Posted (edited)
13 minutes ago, Metropolitan said:

Mines arrived and it's very good for the money. Nice and heavy, a good finish without any flaws. Has any one tried to fit an HM7000 or could take a guess at whether one will fit? The one thing I don't like is the wrench-the-buffers-off design to get the body off so I'd like to avoid it if it's futile. With all wheel pickups it should be OK without the power bank cross fingers.

 

John,

 

There should be ample room for a HM7000. You will need to pull out the buffer shanks (not really 'wrench') and remove the body fixing screws to remove the body to fit the decoder atop of the PCB.

 

PS I am glad you like the model as it has been my baby so to speak.

Edited by Graham_Muz
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7 minutes ago, Graham_Muz said:

 

John,

 

There should be ample room for a HM7000. You will need to pull out the buffer shanks (not really 'wrench') and remove the body fixing screws to remove the body to fit the decoder atop of the PCB.

 

PS I am glad you like the model as it has been my baby so to speak.

Thanks Graham, I've got one on order. There's an HM7000 Class 73 sound profile which will do me just fine. Well, the electric bit.  Yes, I very much do like it. It's very good value. Though I'm surprised it didn't come with an OB OO gauge statue.😀

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2 hours ago, Metropolitan said:

Thanks Graham, I've got one on order. There's an HM7000 Class 73 sound profile which will do me just fine. Well, the electric bit.  Yes, I very much do like it. It's very good value. Though I'm surprised it didn't come with an OB OO gauge statue.😀

Unless I am mistaken the issue with the HM7000 is lighting, I am not sure HM7000 will support all the lighting modes for this loco, F3 and F4. Please correct me if I am wrong.

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13 minutes ago, ColinB said:

Unless I am mistaken the issue with the HM7000 is lighting, I am not sure HM7000 will support all the lighting modes for this loco, F3 and F4. Please correct me if I am wrong.

No idea yet. Doubt it will though with the 73 function map. And the sound won't be right. But..... A man goes to the Doctor and says "Every time I blow the whistle on my class 70 it sounds like a horn and it's driving me insane". And the Doctor says "Well don't do it then!".😀

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44 minutes ago, Metropolitan said:

No idea yet. Doubt it will though with the 73 function map. And the sound won't be right. But..... A man goes to the Doctor and says "Every time I blow the whistle on my class 70 it sounds like a horn and it's driving me insane". And the Doctor says "Well don't do it then!".😀

It appears Hattons is closing, they are doing good deals on HM7000.

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51 minutes ago, ColinB said:

It appears Hattons is closing, they are doing good deals on HM7000.

Yeah and I ordered one from them at around 3pm at the full price!  Don't get me wrong. Its sad. But things are changing for the worse. Amazon is king.

Edited by Metropolitan
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2 minutes ago, Metropolitan said:

Yeah and I ordered one from them at around 3pm at the full price! 

I only found out when I was doing a search for the  21 pin HM7000 to find out if it supported the extra functions. I still didn't find it, even on the Hornby site. It is probably buried in that mammoth specification somewhere.

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My booster has arrived minus one buffer. Nothing in the box or the plastic tray. Pity. 

I'll have to phone Rails tomorrow and get it boxed up and sent off or see if a spare buffer can be sent. Since they're removable it would be easier that way.

 

EDIT: I've just spoken to Rails and a new buffer is on its way. Thank you Rails 😀

Edited by The Evil Bus Driver
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Good afternoon,

 

Not posted on here for a while.  I've succumbed to a 4mm model, the first for a long time.  As a Brighton Boy it was a classic.  Vague memories of them in the 'middle road' at Brighton and a very few sights of them passing on the line between Brighton and Lewes.

So 20002 in green has arrived today.  It looks quite smart.  The buffers are slightly odd as the plunger behind the buffer face is a bit skinny, not the classic 'Heavy Duty' look.  I was thinking of swapping for a set of Hornby spares from stock, or simpler, wrap that part in a strip of black electrical tape, until the desired diameter is obtained. 

I looked underneath and noted that all the wheelsets have a vast amount of side play.  Not sure why this is...  I understand the need to get around the toytown curves, but is this much side play necessary.  I think some 'guides' from black styrene could be knocked up to give some restraint, keeping the outer wheelsets in each bogie with minimal side play, and a touch more on the middle wheelset.  I would be interested in what other users think?  By the way I will use a Kadee as the coupler.

Just need to look through my OO remnants to scratch together a couple of trains for it to pull.....

 

All in all though, a fine looking loco.

 

 

 

Edited by The Bigbee Line
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4 minutes ago, The Bigbee Line said:

Good afternoon,

 

I looked underneath and noted that all the wheelsets have a vast amount of side play.  Not sure why this is...  I understand the need to get around the toytown curves, but is this much side play necessary.  I think some 'guides' from black styrene could be knocked up to give some restraint, keeping the outer wheelsets in each bogie with minimal side play, and a touch more on the middle wheelset.  I would be interested in what other users think?  By the way I will use a Kadee as the coupler.

Just need to look through my OO remnants to scratch together a couple of trains for it to pull.....

 

All in all though, a fine looking loco.

 

 

The bogies are a surprisingly long wheelbase and yes the sideplay is necessary to allow for model curves.

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1 minute ago, Graham_Muz said:

 

The bogies are a surprisingly long wheelbase and yes the sideplay is necessary to allow for model curves.

Graham, I agree the bogies are a long wheelbase, which is catered for by sideplay on the centre wheelset.  Sideplay on the outer wheelsets as well allow that loco to swing out of line.  I will let you know how I get on with some restrictions of the sideplay.  

 

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Posted (edited)
2 minutes ago, The Bigbee Line said:

Graham, I agree the bogies are a long wheelbase, which is catered for by sideplay on the centre wheelset.  Sideplay on the outer wheelsets as well allow that loco to swing out of line.  I will let you know how I get on with some restrictions of the sideplay.  

 

 

Side play on the centre axle alone was not enough for R2 curves.

Edited by Graham_Muz
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